The Unofficial Mamod and Other Steam Forum

wyvern · Posted: Tue Oct 09, 2007 8:21 pm Post subject: Bowman m135

Basically I would like to purchase a bowman M135

Firstly does anybody know what I should be paying for one (I imagine around £100)

Does any body know from where I might get hold of one outside of the realm of ebay ( I really don't want to wait forever for one to turn up)

Also does the connecting rod screw into the piston or is it permenantly fixed to it?

If anybody would like to sell one please PM me for consideration and I'll get back to you as soon as I can.

I would be willing to consider a wreck to a running example in good mechanical order.

Tah

Wyvern

MooseMan · Posted: Tue Oct 09, 2007 10:22 pm Post subject:

Wyvern, don't blame you either...I still think they're the best Bowman engines. £100 should buy you one - they used to be all over eBay, but I haven't seen one for yonks. You could try Mike Cooke on 02476 415608

On mine, the piston's soldered to the conrod.
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wyvern · Posted: Wed Oct 10, 2007 7:47 am Post subject:

Thanks for the reply moose I too haven't seen one on ebay for yonks, I'll give him a ring to see If he could help. There seem to be a number of M122's but I don't feel that these have the appeal of the M135 which is more compact.

MooseMan · Posted: Wed Oct 10, 2007 8:42 am Post subject:

M122 is basically a double 135 with a bigger boiler....it's a fantastic engine, but I agree that the 135 is the nicer engine....there's something about it that's just "right". It was my first Bowman, and the last one I'll get rid of

_________________
Englyn a thelyn a thân - ac afal
ac yfwyr mewn diddan
a gwin melys, a chusan
dyn fain lwys, dyna fyw'n lân

wyvern · Posted: Mon Oct 15, 2007 12:08 pm Post subject:

I managed to source one from Mike cooke it needs a little work doing to it and things like oiler taps but is other wise in pretty good nick. Thanks mooseman

Mamodman123 · Posted: Mon Oct 15, 2007 12:51 pm Post subject:

MooseMan · Posted: Mon Oct 15, 2007 12:57 pm Post subject:

wyvern · Posted: Tue Oct 16, 2007 12:18 pm Post subject:

I have already got it MM just have to get round to putting some pics of it on the net.

The oiler taps I think I can get hold of pretty easily also need a overflow plug and to take the piston apart to put felt padding behind the piston although I think this will mean dismantling the engine so I am going to have to be careful. I'll go through the "problems" in more detail when I post the pics and need advice.

One thing though the decal is in really good condition. Also there is a bolt in the end of the boiler where the overflow plug goes and it seems as though it could possibly be a little difficult to remove. Are there any tips for removing corroded brass screws (WD-40 etc). Were the boilers lacquered?

Also the piston is a reasonable fit in the bore but not to the standard of a new engine (you can move the connecting rod from side to side about 2 - 3 mm and I may at some point (a few months) make a new one. What is the fit on your engine mooseman is it tight or a fairly slack fit. I do wish bowman had made the cover to the cylinder easier to get off. All in all smaller than I expected but wonderful at the same time.

wyvern · Posted: Tue Oct 16, 2007 12:23 pm Post subject:

I have just looked over your internet page and realised I can't buy spares, no worry, they should be fun to make

also I am going to have to make an oiler top or does sandman sell them?

Mamodman123 · Posted: Tue Oct 16, 2007 12:30 pm Post subject:

wyvern · Posted: Tue Oct 16, 2007 12:55 pm Post subject:

Tah for the advice MM I'll try loosening it up as you've suggested, what I don't want to do is ruin the soldered joint when trying to free it. And another thing I used to thin the SE3 was about the same size as the SE2 and I was shocked to see how large they were when I saw one at reading toy fair. I don't blame you for loving them as much as you do.

MooseMan · Posted: Tue Oct 16, 2007 12:59 pm Post subject:

For corroded screw I tend to use a penetrating oil - WD40 is good but not ideal as its main iuse is as a water dispersant (WD). That, and some locally applied heat (an electric soldering iron's good for this) usually does the job.

The bigger Bowmans tend to be fairly tolerant to worn pistons because of the oil grooves - my 135 piston's pretty worn, but the combination of the oil grooves and the oiler pad keeps it running fine.
_________________
Englyn a thelyn a thân - ac afal
ac yfwyr mewn diddan
a gwin melys, a chusan
dyn fain lwys, dyna fyw'n lân

Mamodman123 · Posted: Tue Oct 16, 2007 1:01 pm Post subject:

MamodFan · Full member Joined: 23 Nov 2006 Posts: 817

James · Posted: Tue Oct 16, 2007 5:14 pm Post subject:

To quote from Wikipedia:

WD-40 is the trademark of a widely used penetrating oil (cleaner, lubricant and anti-corrosive solution) spray. It was developed in 1953 by Norm Larsen (then working for the Rocket Chemical Company) to eliminate water and prevent corrosion on electrical circuitry. It also has many household uses.

WD-40 stands for "Water Displacement, 40th attempt", a name which came from Larsen's laboratory notebook. Larsen was attempting to concoct a formula to prevent corrosion by displacing water, and arrived at the formula on his 40th attempt.[1] A common myth is that "WD" stands for "war department".

WD-40 was first used by Convair to protect the outer skin of the Atlas missile from rust and corrosion. The product first became commercially available on store shelves in San Diego in 1958.
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