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Brass screws insted of rivets?

 
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tmuir


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Joined: 01 Aug 2006
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Location: Western Australia

PostPosted: Mon Mar 19, 2007 12:59 pm    Post subject: Brass screws insted of rivets? Reply with quote

I've noticed that the boiler site glass kits they sell all come with brass screws not rivets.
Did some models have nuts soldered inside the boilers?

Thinking this could be a good mod to do to the SP4 as I have loads of brass nuts and bolts left over from my Lady Anne build (No they are spare I haven't 'forgot' to install them) and was tinking of soldering them inside the end of the boiler before fitting encap and soldering them inside endcap after fitting back on the boiler.
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 19, 2007 1:03 pm    Post subject: Re: Brass screws insted of rivets? Reply with quote

tmuir wrote:
I've noticed that the boiler site glass kits they sell all come with brass screws not rivets.
Did some models have nuts soldered inside the boilers?

Thinking this could be a good mod to do to the SP4 as I have loads of brass nuts and bolts left over from my Lady Anne build (No they are spare I haven't 'forgot' to install them) and was tinking of soldering them inside the end of the boiler before fitting encap and soldering them inside endcap after fitting back on the boiler.


They may have been self tapping.
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flywheel61


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Joined: 12 Nov 2006
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Location: Toowoomba, Queensland, Australia

PostPosted: Mon Mar 19, 2007 9:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

With the hole that's left after removing the rivets they's have to be fairly thick screws. Maybe the later boilers had thicker end cap walls. I don't know if the screws would hold very well if used on rivet style boilers.

Cheers

Chris
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Mamodman123


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Joined: 19 Jul 2006
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Location: Midlands, UK

PostPosted: Mon Mar 19, 2007 10:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

They had threads built into the boiler! The screwed on sightglass is very much a later addition! My 2001 Limo has it! Self tapping would leak!
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 19, 2007 10:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mamodman123 wrote:
They had threads built into the boiler! The screwed on sightglass is very much a later addition! My 2001 Limo has it! Self tapping would leak!


My SP2D has them.
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Mamodman123


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 19, 2007 10:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Simple rule

If it was riveted then re-rivet, if it was screwed in, use screws

Simple guvna
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Wallace


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Joined: 19 Jul 2006
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Location: New South Wales, Australia

PostPosted: Tue Mar 20, 2007 6:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mamodman123 wrote:
Simple rule

If it was riveted then re-rivet, if it was screwed in, use screws

Simple guvna


Good point MM

I once ordered a sightglass from Foresteam and got both screws/self tappers and rivets with it, though I didn't ask for it.

It was for the SP5 that I owned for a very short time. The sightglass didn't leak, but needed it cos I had to remove the end cap for a broken whistle thread
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 20, 2007 6:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You could use rivets to rea-attched a previously screwed sight glass - they may need to be of a larger diameter though as the shank of the screws is thicker than the normal size Mamod copper rivets.
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Mamodman123


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 20, 2007 11:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

SPOKESMAN wrote:
You could use rivets to rea-attched a previously screwed sight glass - they may need to be of a larger diameter though as the shank of the screws is thicker than the normal size Mamod copper rivets.


You could... but having screws on your sight glass is an advantage I think . You can take it off at any point then with no fear of drilling too far etc
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tmuir


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 20, 2007 1:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've been thinking a bit more about this.
I think I'll leave it as rivets for the site glass but instead of puting rivets back in to hold the SP4 boiler back into the firbox I will put brass bolts inside the boiler with the threads poking outside the boiler and solder the head to the inside of the boiler so the head of the bolt and the solder will form a steam tight seal and the nuts will just hold it into the firebox much the same as the early nut and bolt Sr1s and Te1s.
Then if I want to remove the boiler for cleaning only need to desolder the steam pipe.

Don't care that it wont be original as its a new model not an old rare one and will make future disassembly easier.
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 20, 2007 4:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

tmuir wrote:
I've been thinking a bit more about this.
I think I'll leave it as rivets for the site glass but instead of puting rivets back in to hold the SP4 boiler back into the firbox I will put brass bolts inside the boiler with the threads poking outside the boiler and solder the head to the inside of the boiler so the head of the bolt and the solder will form a steam tight seal and the nuts will just hold it into the firebox much the same as the early nut and bolt Sr1s and Te1s.
Then if I want to remove the boiler for cleaning only need to desolder the steam pipe.

Don't care that it wont be original as its a new model not an old rare one and will make future disassembly easier.


Aye, makes sense Tony.
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Steve_S


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 20, 2007 10:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like a good plan Tony... it'll certainly make maintenance easier in future.
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 20, 2007 10:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Post some pics of your N&B SP4!
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