The Unofficial Mamod and Other Steam Forum

IndianaRog

Hi guys and gals,

Just yesterday I took delivery of my first TE1 and a beauty at that. It needs nothing done to it but maybe polishing the wheels.

I have seen some TE's and rollers on here with wheels so shiny you could shave in the reflection!!!

HOW would you recommend polishing those wheels WITHOUT taking them off the TE...I don't want to bugger up the wheel retaining caps by prying them off.

thanks,
Rog
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Mamodman123 · Posted: Sun Apr 22, 2007 1:25 pm Post subject:

I personally just use brasso and a cloth. Ive not tried a dremel or anything like that. If they have corrosion then a bit of fine wet and dry paper sorts that out

Might be easier for you to use a polishing wheel at least on the front ones, back ones might be a bit tricky to get to.
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tmuir · Posted: Sun Apr 22, 2007 1:46 pm Post subject:

I've only ever polished the wheels on my Sr1 as they were in a bad state.
I cheaped removed them from the roller.
Took them through several grades of W&D and then finished them on my polishing wheel using a cutting compound and a 6 inch sticked cloth mop.

But if you dont want to take them off you are limited to metal polish and a cloth or a dremel.

If you want to keep the machining marks dont use a dremel though.
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tarbyonline · Posted: Sun Apr 22, 2007 6:56 pm Post subject:

Personally at the moment I am using Autosol metal polish to start with and finish of with Autochrome which is a finer grade. Its especially good on the chrome parts as well because it doesn't scratch them!
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Hard work, elbow grease, wadding polish and time.

MooseMan · Posted: Sun Apr 22, 2007 8:40 pm Post subject:

Rog, on mazak and the like I've had good results starting off with 1500 grade wet&dry followed by copious amounts of simichrome.

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Chris · Posted: Sun Apr 22, 2007 8:50 pm Post subject:

Griffin · Posted: Sun Apr 22, 2007 9:55 pm Post subject:

Roger,

Sometimes the wheels get "dark spots" on them from being in contact with the cardboard box for long period's of time.

These spots can be a bit more stubborn to remove

I am sure this is due to the acidity of the cardboard having an effect on the Mazak.
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IndianaRog · Posted: Sun Apr 22, 2007 9:58 pm Post subject:

I did my TE1 wheels today and found the rub with polish by hand route to be more tedious than I was prepared to undertake. As I wanted to keep the wheels ON the engine and not pop the wheel caps off, here is what I found worked a treat for me:

1) using a high speed Dremel tool with a one of those fibrous looking buffing wheels, I removed most of the oxidation and rough spots WITHOUT removing the original machining marks which I sort of like. I blocked the engine UP on a padded wood base and let the dremel rotate the wheel which I then slowed with the other hand...this kept the buffing pretty consistent vs. get a bald shiny spot by holding in one place too long.

2) using a slow speed Dremel with a wool polishing head, I did each wheel with in the same way as #1...but kept applying SimiChrome polish to the wheel several times per wheel

Step #1 took about 10 min./wheel and same for step #2...I opted to NOT produce a mirror shine, preferring instead a semi-gloss/matte finish. I'm delighted with how they turned out and the job was done in under an hour and a half.

Pictures in a week...the wife has the camera on a trip.

cheers,
Roger
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mc_mc · Posted: Sun Apr 22, 2007 10:00 pm Post subject:

Do we know what the original finish from the factory was? I'm guessing it was a matt machined finish anyways.

Griffin · Posted: Sun Apr 22, 2007 10:06 pm Post subject: