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erikl
Full member
Joined: 19 Jul 2006
Posts: 888
Location: Houten, Netherlands
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 Posted: Sun Dec 03, 2006 7:10 pm Post subject: Painting techniques |
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I know not everybody likes repaints, but I think we can all agree that if you repaint, you'd better do it as good as possible.
Since there are more collectors that do repaints, I thought it might be usefull to start a topic about painting techniques.
With the restoration of my G&G SE3 I've been trying some differend painting techniques. For all engines I've done so far I used spray paint, which worked quite ok.
Now for the SE3, I tried to use a more traditional aprouch, with paint out of a can, and a Brush.
I had several reasons to try this:
- Less mess (or so I thought)
- easyer (I thought)
- you can get it mixed for a exact color match
- cheaper
The posibility to get it mixed was great, I went to the shop with a baseplate, they had some kind of device that could tell which color code it was, and than mix paint to get that color, that was great, because you could get exactly the color you needed, unlike spray paint.
It was indeed a bit cheaper than spray paint, but not very much.
One of the reasons to use this kind of paint is because I thought it would be less messy. With spray paint you get all kind of red spickles around the garage (not that I mind, but my parent's are not very happy with it.) Well, this kind of paint wasn't less messy at all. You first have to mix the paint with a piece of wood everytime you use it (and somehow clean that piece of wood) After every layer of paint you have to clean your brushes, so most of the time it was quite a mess.
It wasn't easyer too. At first you have to use a layer of primer. Drying took me 48 hours (while with spray paint about half an hour). After every layer you have to sand it lightly (you don't have to du that with spray paint)
So it took me more than a week to get the bottom of the SE3 painted. Although it took more time, and was more messy, the most important is ofcourse how it loos.
Unfortunatly I wasn't satisfied with the result, this was what it looked like:
I just couldn't get a flat surface out if it.
So after this expiriment I decided it all had to get off again, and I had to redo it using spray paint.
Now a coleage recently suggested to use a air brush set, like this one:
Because it works like spray paint, you will get a good smooth surface. A advantage would be that you can use mixed paint, so basicly you would have the best of two world. Does anybody here have experience with things like this?
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SPOKESMAN
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| Posted: Sun Dec 03, 2006 7:13 pm Post subject: |
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| Im hand painting my M122 (Bowman) if that any help.Your SE3 looks fine. Mamod never go that kind of finish. |
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Mamodman123
Steam God!
Joined: 19 Jul 2006
Posts: 31313
Location: Midlands, UK
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| Posted: Sun Dec 03, 2006 7:21 pm Post subject: |
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I don't think brush painting a base is a very good idea! The area is large and you'll get brush marks 
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You could get a nice flatbase for that
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SPOKESMAN
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| Posted: Sun Dec 03, 2006 7:23 pm Post subject: |
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| Mamodman123 wrote: | | I don't think brush painting a base is a very good idea! The area is large and you'll get brush marks |
En contrare MM, with studied appilication and proper preperation you will - see how my M122 gets on!   |
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Mamodman123
Steam God!
Joined: 19 Jul 2006
Posts: 31313
Location: Midlands, UK
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| Posted: Sun Dec 03, 2006 7:24 pm Post subject: |
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| SPOKESMAN wrote: | | Mamodman123 wrote: | | I don't think brush painting a base is a very good idea! The area is large and you'll get brush marks |
En contrare MM, with studied appilication and proper preperation you will - see how my M122 gets on! |
Well proove me wrong by all means Mike! 
_________________
Solid Fuel tablets explode
You could get a nice flatbase for that
www.mamodsteam.tk
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SPOKESMAN
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| Posted: Sun Dec 03, 2006 7:26 pm Post subject: |
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| Mamodman123 wrote: | | SPOKESMAN wrote: | | Mamodman123 wrote: | | I don't think brush painting a base is a very good idea! The area is large and you'll get brush marks |
En contrare MM, with studied appilication and proper preperation you will - see how my M122 gets on! |
Well proove me wrong by all means Mike! |
I will!
You can also get a better layer of paint - spraying is too thin and is historically incorrect! |
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Mamodman123
Steam God!
Joined: 19 Jul 2006
Posts: 31313
Location: Midlands, UK
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| Posted: Sun Dec 03, 2006 7:30 pm Post subject: |
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| SPOKESMAN wrote: | | Mamodman123 wrote: | | SPOKESMAN wrote: | | Mamodman123 wrote: | | I don't think brush painting a base is a very good idea! The area is large and you'll get brush marks |
En contrare MM, with studied appilication and proper preperation you will - see how my M122 gets on! |
Well proove me wrong by all means Mike! |
I will!
You can also get a better layer of paint - spraying is too thin and is historically incorrect! |
I suppose so. I tried brush painting an SE3 base a while ago. It didn't look very good so I sprayed it 
As long as you can keep the brush lines out of it... otherwise it will look like you've re-painted your front door
The enamel I buy is quite thick! so when I spray I have the opposite problem of avoiding thick layers
_________________
Solid Fuel tablets explode
You could get a nice flatbase for that
www.mamodsteam.tk
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Wallace
Supermoderator
Joined: 19 Jul 2006
Posts: 11199
Location: New South Wales, Australia
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| Posted: Mon Dec 04, 2006 8:00 am Post subject: Re: Painting techniques |
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| erikl wrote: | I know not everybody likes repaints, but I think we can all agree that if you repaint, you'd better do it as good as possible.
Since there are more collectors that do repaints, I thought it might be usefull to start a topic about painting techniques.
With the restoration of my G&G SE3 I've been trying some differend painting techniques. For all engines I've done so far I used spray paint, which worked quite ok.
Now for the SE3, I tried to use a more traditional aprouch, with paint out of a can, and a Brush.
I had several reasons to try this:
- Less mess (or so I thought)
- easyer (I thought)
- you can get it mixed for a exact color match
- cheaper
The posibility to get it mixed was great, I went to the shop with a baseplate, they had some kind of device that could tell which color code it was, and than mix paint to get that color, that was great, because you could get exactly the color you needed, unlike spray paint.
It was indeed a bit cheaper than spray paint, but not very much.
One of the reasons to use this kind of paint is because I thought it would be less messy. With spray paint you get all kind of red spickles around the garage (not that I mind, but my parent's are not very happy with it.) Well, this kind of paint wasn't less messy at all. You first have to mix the paint with a piece of wood everytime you use it (and somehow clean that piece of wood) After every layer of paint you have to clean your brushes, so most of the time it was quite a mess.
It wasn't easyer too. At first you have to use a layer of primer. Drying took me 48 hours (while with spray paint about half an hour). After every layer you have to sand it lightly (you don't have to du that with spray paint)
So it took me more than a week to get the bottom of the SE3 painted. Although it took more time, and was more messy, the most important is ofcourse how it loos.
Unfortunatly I wasn't satisfied with the result, this was what it looked like:
I just couldn't get a flat surface out if it.
So after this expiriment I decided it all had to get off again, and I had to redo it using spray paint.
Now a coleage recently suggested to use a air brush set, like this one:
Because it works like spray paint, you will get a good smooth surface. A advantage would be that you can use mixed paint, so basicly you would have the best of two world. Does anybody here have experience with things like this? |
Great info EriK
I always use an airbrush, for the main reason that I can get the paint mixed at a smash repairs owned by a mate. He has a similar paint matching device, like you mentioned.
In fact, for perfect colour matches on cars, he actually applies the paint to a large sheet magnet, then sticks on the car, to see how well it's matched
My airbrush is adapted to a standard air compressor, only cos that's all I had. Pressure reduced of course.
It is great info you have given for those into resto here.
Also, getting a brush job to come up like sprayed, is quite hard.
The pic you gave doesn't look too bad, but I can imagine what it would look like in person.
Brush paint is great for wood, not for smooth metal.
Actually, Mamod in the late 70's used ionised (or charged?) paint, so it was attracted by the metal, to get even coverage. Which I had those capabilities.
I think for painitng Mamods, spray cans are quite good, airbrushes are perfect (only due to being able to match colours).
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yosa
Steam Legend!!
Joined: 11 Sep 2006
Posts: 2493
Location: Liverpool
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| Posted: Mon Dec 04, 2006 8:06 am Post subject: |
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I agree that spraying gives more consistent, better quality results. But, for anybody who has to brush paint for any reason, the general rule is lots of thin coats rather than one or two thick coats.
Going by your pics Erik, I reckon you've got a pretty good finish there and I wouldn't redo it. 
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Steely
Hero Steamer
Joined: 19 Jul 2006
Posts: 1721
Location: England
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| Posted: Mon Dec 04, 2006 4:31 pm Post subject: |
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Painting in a warm temperature will help the results a lot.
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Now a Bowman, S.E.L, Wilesco and Hobbies collecter aswell as Mamod......of course.  |
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MTA
Steam Legend!!
Joined: 26 Jun 2006
Posts: 7331
Location: West Sussex
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| Posted: Mon Dec 04, 2006 4:37 pm Post subject: |
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Apparently, once you've done the first coat, do the next coat with the brush going 90 degrees to the first way you painted it
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"If the fascination engendered by locomotion at the present day is so intense, the attractive powers of locomotion in miniature must of necessity be greater still"
W.J. Bassett-Lowke. August 1911 |
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SPOKESMAN
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| Posted: Mon Dec 04, 2006 4:37 pm Post subject: |
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| MTA wrote: | | Apparently, once you've done the first coat, do the next coat with the brush going 90 degrees to the first way you painted it |
Quite correct. |
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Steely
Hero Steamer
Joined: 19 Jul 2006
Posts: 1721
Location: England
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| Posted: Mon Dec 04, 2006 4:38 pm Post subject: |
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| MTA wrote: | | Apparently, once you've done the first coat, do the next coat with the brush going 90 degrees to the first way you painted it |
Yeah isn't that for sparying aswell as brushes?
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SPOKESMAN
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| Posted: Mon Dec 04, 2006 4:39 pm Post subject: |
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| steely wrote: | | MTA wrote: | | Apparently, once you've done the first coat, do the next coat with the brush going 90 degrees to the first way you painted it |
Yeah isn't that for sparying aswell as brushes? |
Yes, for flat areas anyway. |
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Mamodman123
Steam God!
Joined: 19 Jul 2006
Posts: 31313
Location: Midlands, UK
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| Posted: Mon Dec 04, 2006 5:15 pm Post subject: |
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Well the firebox looks good Mike, would look a bit better with a few runs as well!
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Solid Fuel tablets explode
You could get a nice flatbase for that
www.mamodsteam.tk
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