The Unofficial Mamod and Other Steam Forum

tarbyonline · Posted: Thu Apr 12, 2007 1:51 pm Post subject: Sr1 I bought of ebay

Remember the SR1 I got for£29 in the wanted forum? Well it arrived this morning! Initial impressions are mixd. The whistle wont unscrew (which i knew about and is currently being loosened with plenty of WD40 and some boiling water in the boiler - Cheers MM for the tip), The overflow plug has been substituted with an Iron/steel bolt with no washer (ordering one up now), and the safety unscrews but looks completely seized (and there dosn't seem to be an "O" ring. Its currently in bits (so i could check everything up close) but once i get it back together will post some pics. The back of the firebox is screwed to the boiler with 2 nuts and bolts - is this nornal? Also, a lot of rust in the scuttle and some on the back of the firebox - glad I got that BBQ paint in Halfords yesterday!.

On a more positive note paintwork appears to be original and everything moves freely (apart from unscrewing the whistle). Needs a bloody good clean but thats to be expected at this age!
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tmuir · Posted: Thu Apr 12, 2007 1:57 pm Post subject:

The older (read rarer) models used bolts soldered into the boiler to hold it to the firebox.
This was changed to pop rivets as it was quicker / easier and cheaper but the bolt construction makes it easier to dismantle and I think the end cap on the bolt ones are soldered in which makes it possible to open the boiler rear end. Something you cant do on the pop rivetted boilers.

If WD40 and boiler water isnt working you can try carefully heating with a small flame from a blow torch but dont get it hot enough to melt the solder and then quickly cooling in cold water. I've found that the best method for really stuck whistles but you must be careful or you can desolder the bush.
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A nice example of an Australian made Scorpion Donkey Engine

tmuir · Posted: Thu Apr 12, 2007 1:59 pm Post subject:

Oh for the safety valve soak it in a 50/50 mix of distilled water and vinegar and keep checking it every 15 minutes. That will disolve the calcium which is what usually sticks them shut.
Failing that give the rod with the spring on it a sharp tap on a hard surface and that may free it up, just not so hard you bend it.

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A nice example of an Australian made Scorpion Donkey Engine

Mamodman123 · Posted: Thu Apr 12, 2007 2:59 pm Post subject:

Sound alright

Needs a bit of work, but do-able!

Whistle should come out but don't force it or the thread may start turning in the boiler

. I wouldn't go any further than the boiling water, maybe steaming it to try and get it out.

Bolts to hold the boiler in are normal and a life saver if you ever want it totally apart! Any stuck safety vale I just hold and pull down on a surface untill it pops up

Resist putting vinegar in the boiler as over time the only thing that is keeping these threads in, is limescale

.

Once tidy it'll be a beauty!

We're awaiting pics

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tarbyonline · Posted: Thu Apr 12, 2007 3:13 pm Post subject:

Ok. Got the whistle freed using boiling water in the boiler, a lot of WD40 on the whistle base, and some gentle (very) persuasion with a pair of pliers. Threads a little white but have sorted that out by squirting a little wd40 on and now they turn like new. Had trouble getting pics onto computer due to belkins memory card reader (don't buy one) so had to borrow my dads el cheapo 4.99 jobbie!

Here goes

_________________
'mon the wee Cock 'n Hens - Le Jeu avant Tout

'Arsene knows'

GAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAARLLLLIC BRED?

SPOKESMAN · Guest

Good luck with this one Tarby all sound typical condition for an old engine - but all reapairable . . . .

Look forward to seeing some images!!

Mamodman123 · Posted: Thu Apr 12, 2007 3:24 pm Post subject:

Very very nice!

Bags of character! Don't make them like that anymore

Shine those wheels up and it'll be a stunner

_________________
Solid Fuel tablets explode

You could get a nice flatbase for that

www.mamodsteam.tk

tarbyonline · Posted: Thu Apr 12, 2007 3:28 pm Post subject:

You can really see the difference in build quality! Even the hub caps are thicker. Gonna have to be careful getting them off - want to keep them original!
_________________
'mon the wee Cock 'n Hens - Le Jeu avant Tout

'Arsene knows'

GAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAARLLLLIC BRED?

Mamodman123 · Posted: Thu Apr 12, 2007 3:31 pm Post subject:

SPOKESMAN · Guest

That aint too shabby at all! Nice! 1965-67.

Sandman · Posted: Thu Apr 12, 2007 4:34 pm Post subject:

Looks fine to me.

Well done.

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Ouch! Where's the burn cream

Did someone mention Bowman?

tarbyonline · Posted: Thu Apr 12, 2007 4:35 pm Post subject:

Looks even better now

Amazing what a bit of water, cif oxy and a brillo pad can do!
_________________
'mon the wee Cock 'n Hens - Le Jeu avant Tout

'Arsene knows'

GAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAARLLLLIC BRED?

Mamodman123 · Posted: Thu Apr 12, 2007 4:36 pm Post subject:

SPOKESMAN · Guest

Brillo!

old_timer · Guest

You've a good starting point there tarby!

As others have said, the SV should release with gentle pressure applied to the bottom. The 'O' ring probably perished a long while ago but they are replaceable by pushing over the head. The fiddly part is cleaning them up before you replace the 'O' ring. There's a thread on here about dismantling them completely but I've never have much success with that approach.

I'm not sure but didn't the original Mamods have a bolt for the water level - I've seen a few really old ones with them fitted but they didn't look quite like yours. Later they replaced them with the one handled version and later still the improved dual handled version.

A quick question if anyone can help. You see where those 2 nuts are on the back of the firebox - if they are removed does the firebox just slide off the boiler (once the whistle & flywheel support bracket is removed)? That'll help me with my TE1A restoration except mine has copper rivets.