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Wilesco whistle help
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Burnmafingers


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Joined: 27 Jul 2009
Posts: 878


Location: Devon UK

PostPosted: Wed Oct 28, 2009 10:06 pm    Post subject: Wilesco whistle help Reply with quote

Evening all.

I have a Wilesco and was wondering if someone could confirm that it is a D16 and what year of manufacture it may be, as I know next to nowt about Wilescos  
It seems to have a grey/silver base.



The whistle is missing its weight and is permanantly in a depressed position and wouldn't work. This dissappointment was offset by being able to watch the lumps of limescale dancing around the boiler through the window!




What parts are required to fix the whistle and I take it that it just unscrews from the boiler.
Where is the best place for parts and spares as I also need a seal for the top of the SV, athough it seems to steam reasonably well.

I quite like it!


Last edited by Burnmafingers on Sat Nov 21, 2009 1:00 pm; edited 2 times in total
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27ace27


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Joined: 01 Jul 2009
Posts: 1187


Location: Omaha Nebraska, USA

PostPosted: Wed Oct 28, 2009 10:10 pm    Post subject: Re: Wilesco help Reply with quote

Burnmafingers wrote:
Evening all.

I have a Wilesco and was wondering if someone could confirm that it is a D16 and what year of manufacture it may be, as I know next to nowt about Wilescos  
It seems to have a grey/silver base.

The whistle is missing its weight and is permanantly in a depressed position and wouldn't work. This dissappointment was offset by being able to watch the lumps of limescale dancing around the boiler through the window!


What parts are required to fix the whistle and I take it that it just unscrews from the boiler.
Where is the best place for parts and spares as I also need a seal for the top of the SV, athough it seems to steam reasonably well.

I quite like it!


very nice D16! I wave one like it except rustier, and yours has the original stack, condensate tray, governor, and burner. anyway, the whistle/SV is not spring loaded, so It will not come up if you lift the arm. And glenn can make you some weights, he was kind enough to do so for me!  
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Bugsy


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Joined: 28 Jan 2009
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Location: Sala, Sweden

PostPosted: Wed Oct 28, 2009 10:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Definitely a D16, made in the '60s or early '70s.
Is there a label on the front of the base?
The whistle is actually a combined whistle and safety valve.
You have an extra safety valve where a simple filler plug originally sat.
New spare parts for these older whistles are no longer available.
Perhaps a member of the forum has a spare if you're lucky.
However it looks like the one you have should be repairable.
Good luck, they are one of Wilesco's best models!
Phil
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Celsius 100


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Joined: 31 Aug 2009
Posts: 238


Location: Buckinghamshire, England

PostPosted: Wed Oct 28, 2009 10:41 pm    Post subject: D16 Reply with quote

A good loooking D16.There are two places I use For Wilesco parts-1. The UK Wilesco Agent Mss ,steammodels.com
2. Chas at papernsteamgalore and he lists whistle weights on his website.
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metalhead100


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Joined: 27 Dec 2008
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Location: Indiana USA

PostPosted: Wed Oct 28, 2009 10:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The top shell of the whistle is pushed down too far....there should be a gap.

As Ace said the whistle parts only work under pressure...the moving arm rests on a valve pin.

The pin will lift when under pressure and let the whistle work when you raise the lever.

Here is another members picture(hope they do not mind) Ignore the metal ring...its NOT part of the assembly .



Jim
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Bugsy


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Location: Sala, Sweden

PostPosted: Wed Oct 28, 2009 10:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

metalhead100 wrote:
The top shell of the whistle is pushed down too far....there should be a gap.

As Ace said the whistle parts only work under pressure...the moving arm rests on a valve pin.

The pin will lift when under pressure and let the whistle work when you raise the lever.

Here is another members picture(hope they do not mind) Ignore the metal ring...its NOT part of the assembly .



Jim

But he has steamed it without the weight, Jim.
So the pin must be locked or glued down somehow.
If it can be loosened the whistle might just work when the shells are separated a little.
Phil
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metalhead100


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 28, 2009 11:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ahhh Phil,I guess I miss understood him...thanks.

There is a nut (pin is in the middle)that one can get a wrench on and pull the top of the pin/valve apart to clean and fix it.

Its a top loaded mechanism...with 1 moving part other than the arm.

Jim
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Bugsy


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 28, 2009 11:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

metalhead100 wrote:
Ahhh Phil,I guess I miss understood him...thanks.

There is a nut (pin is in the middle)that one can get a wrench on and pull the top of the pin/valve apart to clean and fix it.

Its a top loaded mechanism...with 1 moving part other than the arm.

Jim

Then that should be an easy fix, probably full of lime scale as he can see it in the boiler. A little vinegar might do wonders, then a home-made weight until the new one arrives.
About 20 grams I think.

Phil
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igy569


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Joined: 08 Mar 2008
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Location: Uxbridge, Massachusetts, USA

PostPosted: Thu Oct 29, 2009 12:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice D16.  That one should fix up REAL nice.
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psantama


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Location: Rome, Georgia

PostPosted: Thu Oct 29, 2009 1:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

25 grams I believe....
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psantama


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 29, 2009 1:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The part of the whistle that holds the weight arm is bent at the base. Straighten it out the arm should level off. The hinge should be perpendicular to the boiler / parallel to the whistle center piece. Clean the limescale and you are in business again. look at Metalheads whistle pic, and compare to yours... it is bent.
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Burnmafingers


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 29, 2009 6:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the help chaps, I appreciate it!
I may have a go at the whistle later tonight  as the D16 is to replace the SE3 that I normally 'play' with in my shed as some repairs and a clean are required on the Mamod.
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L.North


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Joined: 02 Aug 2009
Posts: 187


Location: Tallahassee, Fl. USA

PostPosted: Sat Oct 31, 2009 10:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Take the whistle off before you work on the handle. It could be stuck because it is cemeted in position with lime scale. I would soak it in vinegar for a few hours and pick any scale or gunk out with a sharp ice pick or large sewing needle.  Then I would steam the engine with a vinegar and water mixture, open the valves on the whistle to blow out any gunk that is left.
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Burnmafingers


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Location: Devon UK

PostPosted: Sat Nov 14, 2009 12:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The rod and ball bearing inside the whistle are unstuck and free moving. he problem seems to be that the operating lever doesn't really touch the top of the rod to hold the ball bearing down (even though it looks OK in the picture).

is there supposed to be a spring between the ball and the bottom of the rod?



luckily I have a spare SV to use in place of the whistle so I can steam it.
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Bugsy


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 14, 2009 8:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Read what psantama wrote a couple of posts up.
Quote:
The part of the whistle that holds the weight arm is bent at the base. Straighten it out the arm should level off. The hinge should be perpendicular to the boiler / parallel to the whistle center piece.

If you do this carefully I think you'll find that the problem is solved.
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