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A wick burner for my Jensen(s)
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Dean W


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Joined: 28 Jul 2010
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 02, 2010 7:18 am    Post subject: A wick burner for my Jensen(s) Reply with quote

"

Hello all.  'Nuther burner/lamp project here.

The wick burners I've made in the past have had round reservoirs and they don't really work that well with
a Jensen engine.  Jensen engines with a pressed steel base have a kind of short ledge at the end of the
firebox, and round wick burners want to fall off.  So, I tried a rectangular shaped one to see if it would
work a little better.






I started off with some .010" sheet brass, and used a piece of metal stock to bend it as shown above.






After each bend, reposition the clamps, and bend again.  Pressing it against the work bench got it
bent at each corner most of the way, and tapping lightly with a hammer made the corners square.






Once I have the basic shape bent up, the part that was the edge on the first bend meets the rest of the
brass sheet.  Then that edge is soldered up.






Then the left over brass sheet is cut off with a jewelers saw.  Once it's cut, I used a file to take
off the edge from the saw cut.






The ends of the reservoir are soldered on, then the excess cut off as with the main reservoir piece.
The end pieces are .024".  Using what I have on hand.






The filler is the same as I always use for things like this;  A piece of 1/8" pipe, so that a lamp
fitting cap will fit.  The filler pipe is soldered right to the top of the reservoir, and when the
soldering job is done, a hole is drilled through the reservoir shell using the pipe as a guide.






A hole for the fuel tube is drilled right next to the bottom of the reservoir, and the tube soldered in.






Then the wick holders are made.  For these, I used empty cartridge cases and cut off the base.  Regular
3/8 brass modeling tube could be used just the same.  
The bottom of the wick holder is drilled so the drill bit just comes through the edge of the tube.  Then
the fuel tube is put into the hole in the wick tube, and the pieces are set on a small square piece of
brass sheet that will close off the end.  Then the whole thing is soldered up at one time.  

After the wick tubes are soldered on, the small square base sharp corners are filed, and any rough edges
on the rest of the burner tank are cleaned up as well.  The fuel tube is a solid piece from the reservoir
to the end wick tube.  That means the part of the fuel tube that goes through the wick tube in the center
needs to be drilled out so alcohol can get to that wick.  Then into the pickle for about 20 minutes to
get rid of all the old flux, and a rinse in water, and it's done.

I'm going to paint this to match the base on one of my Jensens.  First, a trial run:










Here it is after painting to match my Jensen 65, which is a darker blue than stock Jensen color.











Here it is at home in the Jensen 65 firebox.  

That's it!  Thanks for looking in.

Dean
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Stilldrillin


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 02, 2010 7:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dean,
That's a great little burner, beautifully finished off!  

Stanley Kubric couldn't have done better.....  
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Lozza1


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Joined: 21 Jan 2009
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Location: Australia

PostPosted: Sat Oct 02, 2010 8:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's a beauty

Nice and neat. A helpful and practical guide too
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Steve_S


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Joined: 26 Aug 2006
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Location: Leeds UK

PostPosted: Sat Oct 02, 2010 10:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's a beautiful burner Dean, nice work!
(I've recently made a burner for my Jensen 75 that is uncannily similar to yours. Great minds..... )
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benchmark


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Joined: 31 Jan 2010
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Location: Copenhagen, Denmark

PostPosted: Sat Oct 02, 2010 11:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Neat examplary metal work, as expected.  
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IndianaRog


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Joined: 26 Dec 2006
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Location: Indiana, USA

PostPosted: Sat Oct 02, 2010 12:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dean, that turned out to be quite nice...best looking Jensen burner I've seen by far, obviously made to fit the application.  I really like that color scheme as well!

To keep it from vibrating out of place, I wonder if a strip of that self adhesive magnetic material used on frig magnets might work well on the bottom of the burner?  Either that or some sort of catch on the floor of the Jensen to hold the burner tips.

Beautiful!!
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MrDuck


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Joined: 05 Mar 2010
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 02, 2010 12:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very neat and good looking
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The Denying Dutchman


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Joined: 01 Jun 2010
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 02, 2010 4:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Awesome job, looks factory made.
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Dampfmaschine


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Joined: 24 Dec 2008
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 02, 2010 4:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That looks the business - What is a jewlers saw just out of interest?
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MrMamod


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 02, 2010 5:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks factory made to me so has to be a good un    
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gd9704


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 02, 2010 7:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Beautiful work!  Any project that uses ammo cases is o.k. in my book!  
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kno3


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 02, 2010 8:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice work!
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Les


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 03, 2010 12:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That looks perfect, well done.  
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Dean W


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Location: N. Idaho, USA

PostPosted: Sun Oct 03, 2010 1:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

'

Thanks for all the comments, fellows!

Rog, that's a good idea to keep it in place.  


Steve_S wrote:

(I've recently made a burner for my Jensen 75 that is uncannily similar to yours. Great minds..... )


Steve, can you put a picture of it here?  (More ideas! )
I guess if a guy is making something for a specific application, it makes sense that it would look similar
to others made for the same purpose.  
Or, it's the "Great minds", like you say.  I like that one better!


Dampfmaschine wrote:
That looks the business - What is a jewlers saw just out of interest?


It's a saw with a very fine blade, similar to a coping saw that would be used for wood.  It may be called
something else depending on where you live.  A jewelers saw, a fret saw, a piercing saw, or maybe a crossing saw.  
They are all the same thing.



They are handy for cutting small things by hand.  The blades come in many different tooth counts, and they
will cut most metals, including steel, brass, etc.   The frames run from quite cheap, ($15) to very expensive.  
Blades can be bought individually or by the gross, which is how I buy them.  About $10 per gross for cheap ones.
It's a handy saw for a model builder's shop.

Dean
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Steve_S


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 03, 2010 12:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dean W wrote:

Steve_S wrote:

(I've recently made a burner for my Jensen 75 that is uncannily similar to yours. Great minds..... )


Steve, can you put a picture of it here?  (More ideas! )
I guess if a guy is making something for a specific application, it makes sense that it would look similar
to others made for the same purpose.  
Or, it's the "Great minds", like you say.  I like that one better!


Dean, I'm intending to post something about it during STWWW, together with another item that I've made for the Jensen. It really is very similar!
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