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I made my own burner
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xddorox


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Joined: 13 Oct 2010
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 18, 2010 12:17 am    Post subject: I made my own burner Reply with quote

The burner that came with my SE1a is really crappy. I was hardly managing 5 minute runs and since I've played with camping stoves for the past couple of months, I knew it wasn't very efficient.

So I got myself a couple of fruit salad cans and a pair of brass tubes and got busy. I filled the tubes with some cotton rope that end up at the bottom of the can and then soldered the tubes on the can before press fitting both ends together, I use a nut to close up the filler hole.







It runs too good. Wihout a water or pressure gauge on the SE1a, I'm running blind. I had some water left after running it 10 minutes but the RPM was way faster than before. I refilled the boiler and ran it another 8 minutes on the fuel that was left. I used the same amount of fuel as I used to with the stock Mamod burner. Might have to block some pinholes.



Gerry  
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steaminon


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 18, 2010 12:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've always wondered why tin cans wouldn't work for this and you've just shown me they work fine.  Great job.  I have built many meths burners but nothing like yours.  Gives me more ideas.
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IndianaRog


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 18, 2010 12:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gerry, very creative and apparently very effective!!!
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Dean W


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 18, 2010 12:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good idea, Gerry.  What did you use to make such nice cuts on the tin cans?
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tmuir


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Joined: 01 Aug 2006
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 18, 2010 1:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

One brand of AUstralian toy steam engines made in the 40s and 50s used to use small paint tins for the burners.
They just used the pop off lids of the paint cans as the fillers.
They would of been about the same hight as a can of Humbrol paint, but a bit wider.
The same company even used paint can tins for the fuel tank on burners they made for there locos.  

Nice burner xddorox
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xddorox


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 18, 2010 1:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dean W wrote:
Good idea, Gerry.  What did you use to make such nice cuts on the tin cans?
 I have some tin snips.
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Dean W


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 18, 2010 1:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

[quote="xddorox"]
Dean W wrote:
I have some tin snips.


Well, you've got a good eye for a straight edge, Gerry!
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mogogear


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 18, 2010 2:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote


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Roly Williams


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 18, 2010 7:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great job, but just be very careful that you don't run the boiler dry
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Stilldrillin


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 18, 2010 7:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nicely, neatly done Gerry!  
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Swift Fox


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 18, 2010 8:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice job Gerry, although i'm with Roly as i'd hate to see you run that lovely engine dry.
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MrDuck


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 18, 2010 9:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks efficient so why not
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The Denying Dutchman


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 18, 2010 10:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks nice, did you do anything to prevent rust?
Many years ago I made an alcohol burner out of a tin can for a Wilesco engine, but after a while it started to rust and leak. Maybe I didn't clean well enough after soldering or maybe the fuel itself was to blame.
I guess the alcohol I use (cleaning spirit) is to blame as the Mamod burner I have also has rust on it.
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xddorox


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 18, 2010 10:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you all for the great comments. The trick in a nice clean cut is a nice clean mark. I use a pointy file to mark a line. The file sits on something while I turn the can on a flat surface. It's then just a question of taking your time.

I have run this boiler dry already prior to building this burner. It's held up good since but I am planing an overhaul in the near future. I want to add a throttle, a whistle and a pressure gauge at the same time.

No rust protection, I'll have to wait and see I guess.

Gerry
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Dean W


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 19, 2010 12:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

One of the reasons that may be for a tin burner to rust is, alcohols are very hygroscopic.  That means they
absorb water from anything around them, and they do it at a furious rate.  

Ethanol and methanol, the types of alcohol mostly used in our burners, are high up on the list of hygroscopic
substances.  They are both used as drying agents for other liquids.  Simply put, they will remove water directly from
the air, and leave some if it in your burner after the alcohol has disappeared into vapor.

If you have a tin burner that is not coated, leave the cap off when you store it away to let residual water evaporate.
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