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H2o vapour
Hero Steamer
Joined: 16 Feb 2007
Posts: 1929
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 Posted: Thu Apr 05, 2012 7:11 pm Post subject: TE1 Assistance PLEASE ! |
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Hi,
You may have looked at other recent threads and found that I have just purchased a flat roof TE.
I have a problem with it, the whistle has been glued in !
I have never stripped one of these down before, I was wondering how do you get the two brass rivets / screws undone on top of the fire box?? the flat head ones.
I was hoping to get them out and then pull the boiler out of the fire box, if that makes sense.
Advice most welcome
Cheers
H2o |
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Stitch1615
Steam Legend!!
Joined: 08 Apr 2011
Posts: 4115
Location: Dunedin, FL
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| Posted: Thu Apr 05, 2012 7:18 pm Post subject: |
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You may get the whistle loose by heating it with a soldering iron.
Heat try to turn, heat some more, try to turn.. Go slowly and don't twist it off.
I drilled the rivets. I'm not sure what anyone else might do.
I did not see anyway to preserve them.
Wait for more suggestions. 
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Stitch
Hot Tip: Never kick a fresh turd on a hot day.
http://toysteamparts.com/patches.html
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Pete the steam
Honorary Life Member
Joined: 30 Jan 2010
Posts: 5661
Location: Eastwood, Notts
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| Posted: Thu Apr 05, 2012 7:19 pm Post subject: |
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Might be a case of grinding them flush and popping 'em thro' mate.
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If it's brass dont paint it,Polish it!!!!!
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Mamodman123
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Joined: 19 Jul 2006
Posts: 39804
Location: Midlands, UK
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| Posted: Thu Apr 05, 2012 7:21 pm Post subject: |
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Desolder the pipes from the engine frame and remove it that way
Those rivets cannot be removed without destroying and can't be replaced.
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Solid Fuel tablets explode
You could get a nice flatbase for that
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Stitch1615
Steam Legend!!
Joined: 08 Apr 2011
Posts: 4115
Location: Dunedin, FL
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| Posted: Thu Apr 05, 2012 7:25 pm Post subject: |
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| Mamodman123 wrote: | Desolder the pipes from the engine frame and remove it that way
Those rivets cannot be removed without destroying and can't be replaced. |
So MM123, you are saying do not remove the engine frame from the firebox.
Interesting. I have nut and bolt roller I want to do but
was apprehensive about destroying those rivets.
I guess it's worth a try
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Stitch
Hot Tip: Never kick a fresh turd on a hot day.
http://toysteamparts.com/patches.html
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Mamodman123
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Joined: 19 Jul 2006
Posts: 39804
Location: Midlands, UK
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| Posted: Thu Apr 05, 2012 7:29 pm Post subject: |
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| Stitch1615 wrote: | | Mamodman123 wrote: | Desolder the pipes from the engine frame and remove it that way
Those rivets cannot be removed without destroying and can't be replaced. |
So MM123, you are saying do not remove the engine frame from the firebox.
Interesting. I have nut and bolt roller I want to do but
was apprehensive about destroying those rivets.
I guess it's worth a try |
Yes that's what I'm saying
you have sodlering to do anyway.
Just desolder the pipes from the engine frame end (not the boiler end or you'll burn all the paint off) Then simply slide the boiler out the front of the firebox sort your thread out then slide it back in.
Then just resolder the pipes back on the engine frame. Hold them in place with cocktail sticks or matchsticks and it's easy.
_________________
Solid Fuel tablets explode
You could get a nice flatbase for that
Keep calm and pass to Wilf |
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H2o vapour
Hero Steamer
Joined: 16 Feb 2007
Posts: 1929
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| Posted: Thu Apr 05, 2012 7:34 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks Guy's
I'll let you know How I get on, just needed the heads up !
Cheers
H2o |
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H2o vapour
Hero Steamer
Joined: 16 Feb 2007
Posts: 1929
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| Posted: Thu Apr 05, 2012 9:06 pm Post subject: |
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Sorted !!!!
Thanks Mamodman !
Brilliant advice. I unsoldered the pipes, and pulled the boiler out.
I then cleaned and remade the whistle boss joint. Then slipped the boiler back in. Went and fetched some cocktail sticks. lined the pipes up, held in with cocktail sticks and re-soldered.
I then steamed her, spare saftry valve etc. The whistle socket is sound. There is a bit more steam around the pipe joints, but she runns a treat now.
Not sure what the problem is around the steam leaking from around the cylinder and pipes. The pipe joints look good. I will play with that over the next few days. Lap the cylinder faces etc and mess about with it. I must admit when I removed the cylinder the pin was was on fairly tight -
Thanks Guy's
H2o |
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flywheel61
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Joined: 12 Nov 2006
Posts: 7095
Location: "On The Road", around Australia
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| Posted: Fri Apr 06, 2012 12:33 am Post subject: |
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MM wrote
| Quote: | Yes that's what I'm saying
you have sodlering to do anyway.
Just desolder the pipes from the engine frame end (not the boiler end or you'll burn all the paint off) Then simply slide the boiler out the front of the firebox sort your thread out then slide it back in.
Then just resolder the pipes back on the engine frame. Hold them in place with cocktail sticks or matchsticks and it's easy. |
That's a great trick from MM, I have used it a number of times, it helps to keep the pipes & holes lined up and the tooth picks just turn to charcoal, and get blown out with the first lot of steam. Fire the engine up without the cylinder/piston assembly on first to clear out the pipes.
Prior to that I tried fine brads/nails/ old drill bits, and they often got stuck with solder on them, a devil to get back out without desoldering again.
Cheers 
Chris |
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Mamodman123
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Joined: 19 Jul 2006
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Location: Midlands, UK
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| Posted: Fri Apr 06, 2012 9:55 am Post subject: |
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| H2o vapour wrote: | Sorted !!!!
Thanks Mamodman !
Brilliant advice. I unsoldered the pipes, and pulled the boiler out.
I then cleaned and remade the whistle boss joint. Then slipped the boiler back in. Went and fetched some cocktail sticks. lined the pipes up, held in with cocktail sticks and re-soldered.
I then steamed her, spare saftry valve etc. The whistle socket is sound. There is a bit more steam around the pipe joints, but she runns a treat now.
Not sure what the problem is around the steam leaking from around the cylinder and pipes. The pipe joints look good. I will play with that over the next few days. Lap the cylinder faces etc and mess about with it. I must admit when I removed the cylinder the pin was was on fairly tight -
Thanks Guy's
H2o |
Glad you've sorted it out
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Solid Fuel tablets explode
You could get a nice flatbase for that
Keep calm and pass to Wilf |
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gazspeight
Junior Member
Joined: 28 Feb 2011
Posts: 113
Location: Durham
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| Posted: Sun Apr 08, 2012 7:40 pm Post subject: |
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Some great tips there with the cocktail sticks!!!! Must try that one as i've often used "old" rivets & they have got stuck! Glad you got sorted out!!!!
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H2o vapour
Hero Steamer
Joined: 16 Feb 2007
Posts: 1929
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| Posted: Sun Apr 08, 2012 7:43 pm Post subject: |
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Update !!
OK, Ive got the Beast running now, played around with the facees and put some good quality steam oil around and played with the tension on the pivot pin, and I must say that it runs very very well, very smooth.
I know it sounds silly but I steamed a 1970's pre Warter-level engine at the side to compare. It's ok and I'm happy with that. I also plugged the ports up with Cocktail sticks and steam tested the joints on the port face - they are good.
Other points, the back axel / rear running gear whilst being correct is out of true and quite stiff, as is the front. I've oiled it up well and will se what little bit of time does.
Any info or suggestions regarding this would be welcome
Cheers
H2o |
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