oldstuff
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50's SE2 Union NutThis SE2 is nearly identical to the 1953 version as shown on MM's website. I'm
questioning the union nut and what to do next. Firstly, it doesn't look like the
correct nut, but it does have an o-ring. Secondly, is the steam pipe normally flared
or does o-ring normally seal against the pipe when nut is screwed down? This one
isn't flared, joint is not steam tight. Perhaps a new o-ring would better seal it?
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Mamodman123
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Your union nut is fine! Its just slightly earlier! Correct date for the engine aswell! Usually the pipe is a tight fit and the union nut would screw down on it and hold it in. Sometimes they can be loose! The pipe needs to be right into the boiler, you can only really do it when the firebox is on! An o ring will help though!
Nice engine all the same 
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MooseMan
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That's a NICE SE2 Chuck!
For loose unions where an o ring would be too small sometimes a bit of liquid gasket will work miracles - easily removed as well. It's sold here under the LocTite brand. Easily withstands the 100 or so degrees C a steampipe gets up to.
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SPOKESMAN
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Looks good chuck!
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oldstuff
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| Mamodman123 wrote: | Your union nut is fine! Its just slightly earlier! Correct date for the engine aswell! Usually the pipe is a tight fit and the union nut would screw down on it and hold it in. Sometimes they can be loose! The pipe needs to be right into the boiler, you can only really do it when the firebox is on! An o ring will help though!
Nice engine all the same |
James, you've made my day! Was worried it had the wrong nut! 
Further inspection revealed a hard, crumbly o-ring. I've cleaned much
of it away with a dental pick and it's now soaking in a bath of vinegar.
Great news about the union nut, James, thanks!
Mooseman, thanks for that! I have an o-ring that should work, but that is a
great tip and a good backup plan which I'll keep in my back pocket!
Now that this is sorted, I'll continue in a new thread in Restorations...
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Mamodman123
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| oldstuff wrote: | | Mamodman123 wrote: | Your union nut is fine! Its just slightly earlier! Correct date for the engine aswell! Usually the pipe is a tight fit and the union nut would screw down on it and hold it in. Sometimes they can be loose! The pipe needs to be right into the boiler, you can only really do it when the firebox is on! An o ring will help though!
Nice engine all the same |
James, you've made my day! Was worried it had the wrong nut!
Further inspection revealed a hard, crumbly o-ring. I've cleaned much
of it away with a dental pick and it's now soaking in a bath of vinegar.
Great news about the union nut, James, thanks!
Mooseman, thanks for that! I have an o-ring that should work, but that is a
great tip and a good backup plan which I'll keep in my back pocket!
Now that this is sorted, I'll continue in a new thread in Restorations... |
Yup it's a gooden. the whole engine looks to be in excellent condition too.
That type of union nut was usually seen on the 50-52/3 SE range. Then it changed to the more common type a little while into '53 as mine has the later one 
The o ring should seal it! I know it can be a pain in the backside getting them steam tight, but I'd take that over a soldered on steam pipe anyday of the week
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Darren
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I had similar thoughts about my SE2.
Here's one I prepaired earlier & yes it has an 'o' ring fitted
Darren.
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SPOKESMAN
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Ahh thats good to see . . . one of the final flat base SE2s around 53.
I remember those union nuts now - I have had a coupleof engines with them in the past, but that type dont seem to come up often, that or I am not looking close enough!
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Wallace
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I never knew they had those types of union nuts.
Learn something new everyday.
Nice engine Chuck.
I too had similar problems with my union nut fittings. I also thought they should be flared or something.
I couldn't for the life of me figure how they fit and seal.
But as most have said, make sure the pipe gets into boiler a bit. Along with oring sealing, it should work well.
I put the oring into the union nut, then put it onto steam pipe, push steam pipe into boiler, then tighten up.
Just have to watch how tight you do it. Don't want to break thread.
It's almost as though as you tighten it, the union nut squeezes down on oring, squashing it onto the union nut boss in boiler.
As it does squash it, it seals, sqeezes around steam pipe, and holds it in.
I don't know how, you'd think 10-15psi would pop it out, but doesn't
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flywheel61
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50's SE2 union nutNice condition, Chuck. I checked my SE2 flat base and it has the standard nut. I used the same 'o' ring that's used for the top of the safety valve and it works OK. One thing I didn't notice before is that, on mine, the water level plug is at 2 o'clock rather than 12 o'clock. Must have been busy that day or an apprentice did it??? Another one of life's little mysteries.
Cheers
Chris
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Mamodman123
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Re: 50's SE2 union nut | flywheel61 wrote: | Nice condition, Chuck. I checked my SE2 flat base and it has the standard nut. I used the same 'o' ring that's used for the top of the safety valve and it works OK. One thing I didn't notice before is that, on mine, the water level plug is at 2 o'clock rather than 12 o'clock. Must have been busy that day or an apprentice did it??? Another one of life's little mysteries.
Cheers
Chris |
They were never all the same Chris. The level plugs were often coming off at all angles. Have you got a washer on it? might be too thick/thin. That would alter it slightly.
None of my engines have that type of union nut I don't think. My 46,48, 53 all don't have it. Must have been introduced on the 1950 version?
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Mamodman123
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| Darren wrote: | I had similar thoughts about my SE2.
Here's one I prepaired earlier & yes it has an 'o' ring fitted
Darren. |
That's a really nice engine Darren I haven't got a picture of mine  . I;ll get one a litle later for comparision. I'll be dispalying mine at STIA!
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oldstuff
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| Darren wrote: | I had similar thoughts about my SE2.
Here's one I prepaired earlier & yes it has an 'o' ring fitted
Darren. |
Thanks Darren, I believed what MM said about the nut, but seeing another example
makes me feel better about it!
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Mamodman123
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They're quite strange as the engines before it were normal union nuts
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SPOKESMAN
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I remember having one on an SE1 of the same period.
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Wallace
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Re: 50's SE2 union nut | Mamodman123 wrote: | | flywheel61 wrote: | Nice condition, Chuck. I checked my SE2 flat base and it has the standard nut. I used the same 'o' ring that's used for the top of the safety valve and it works OK. One thing I didn't notice before is that, on mine, the water level plug is at 2 o'clock rather than 12 o'clock. Must have been busy that day or an apprentice did it??? Another one of life's little mysteries.
Cheers
Chris |
They were never all the same Chris. The level plugs were often coming off at all angles. Have you got a washer on it? might be too thick/thin. That would alter it slightly.
None of my engines have that type of union nut I don't think. My 46,48, 53 all don't have it. Must have been introduced on the 1950 version? |
I think what Flywheel meant is the positioning of the plug. ie, looking at end of boiler, it's at 2 o clock position rather than 12 o clock.
One or 2 of my engines are similar. I've noticed for the ones that are in the 12 oclock position, I quite often get priming of the engine. ie, the overflow plug is too high.
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sparky
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o i never new that, can understand what you mean though
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yosa
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I just recently got 2 SE3's Wallace, and both of there level plugs are at two o'clock. 
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sparky
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thats odd
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Mamodman123
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| yosa wrote: | | I just recently got 2 SE3's Wallace, and both of there level plugs are at two o'clock. |
It also depends on the washer! If you have a thin washer or no washer it will screw in before
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sparky
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with my new washers that i buy from forest classics, its really wierd you cant keep spining it round and round as if its cross thread as soon as you take the washer off and have a go its ok 
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mj
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| sparky wrote: | | with my new washers that i buy from forest classics, its really wierd you cant keep spining it round and round as if its cross thread as soon as you take the washer off and have a go its ok |
Sparky,
buy a roll of 'ptfe tape' from a plumbers merchant or diy store.
Wrap it around the thread half a dozen turns & then screw it into the boss. That should be steam tight, although you may needs a few more wraps if the thread is very slack.
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Wallace
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| Mamodman123 wrote: | | yosa wrote: | | I just recently got 2 SE3's Wallace, and both of there level plugs are at two o'clock. |
It also depends on the washer! If you have a thin washer or no washer it will screw in before |
I must be on a different wavelength here 
I wasn't talking about the arm position, I was meaning the actual hole for the water level plug being at different positions, ie, at 2 o clock rather than 12, which means it holds different levels of water.
Without looking, I have a feeling my SE3 water level hole is at abou 11 o clock
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