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       The Unofficial Mamod and Other Steam Forum Forum Index -> Restorations
tmuir

A rare Scorpion for Restoration

I received my Horizontal Scorpion today and from the photos below you will see I have my work cut out for this restoration.

Model Engineering Products made the Scorpion range of steam toys.
It was started by Ted Wallis and Ted Peell towards the end of 1944.
Initially the produced just a small oscillating marine engine, soon followed by a horizontal boiler for boats.
These were made in a shed at Ted Peell's home using a drilling machine and a Myford Lathe in their spare time.

These were sold by Walther and Stevenson toy shop in Sydney.

After success with these two items they then decided to make a complete stationary which was this Horizontal engine.
This engine pre-dates the verticals but was made side by side with them aswell.

This is the only example I've seen outside the S, S & S book.



As you can see its in need of a lot of work.
Burner is missing.
Chimney is missing.
70% paint loss on firebox and 50% on base.
Steam pipe is bent and the solder has cracked allowing the pipe to be pushed into the boiler.
Piston is sticky in the cylinder
And it has a small dent on the boiler.

All fixable but it requires a complete strip down and repaint as well as a service.


Notice the hole for the burner has a round top, they also did one with a flat top so this atleast 2 variations of this engine.



The firebox is held on the base by 4 bent tabs so will be easy to remove for cleaning.



Boiler has a single bolt in the end which attaches it to the firebox.
The small hole here allows access to the nut.



Notice the grove in the piston to hold the oil and also that the piston rod has a slight bend in it that needs straightening.
Mamodman123

Nice! There's something to get your teeth into Tony! Should restore a treat that one!

A very simple engine and a lovely additon to your collection mate
Graham-Jilly

that should look realy nice when you have restored it Tony
looking forward to that
Sandman

O.K. Tony. It's a bit rough, but most of that is just surface.

The rest will be pretty easily fixed.

When you've done that you'll be left with a very rare engine that will be a credit to your collection.

Well done mate.
tmuir

I've stripped it down and everything came apart quite easily.
No siezed or rusted nuts or screws which was nice.

I've removed the big blob of solder from the boiler which reveals another small dent besides the hole for the steam pipe.
Obviously at some time something heavy was dropped or put on top of it or the engine was dropped onto the steam pipe which flattened it against the boiler and put a small dent in the boiler.

I'm not going to attempt to remove the dents as they are only cosmetic and I will likely do more damage trying to remove them.

I can see all the repairs are pretty straight forward now, the hardest part will be removing the old paint and rust from the firebox.
I don't think I will manage an exact match to the red in fireproof paint so will settle for using brake calliper red paint so its off for a trip to the car parts shop in the next few days.

I found a new way to remove heavy layers of soot from boiler tonight.
I scrubbed it with Solvo (A soap with pumice in it used to clean grease and paint etc off your hands) and that worked quite well.

Biggest problem I have at the moment is soon it will be too cold to paint so I need to get a hurry on with this.
tmuir

I just realised something interesting about this model.
The flywheel is the same casting as used on the vericles but it is held in place by a screw you do up whilst on the Verticles it is just a friction fit.

I guessing they went to a friction fit as it was cheaper and easier and if so that means this is probably a very early one. Possibly as early as 1945, now I'm in a delemmer about the paint as its really bad, past the point of trying to save I feel but this is a very early rare model....

I need to see another one of these models to compare to now but this is the only one I've ever seen.


For now I may just give the base a light oiling, treat the firebox to electrolysis to remove the rust and give that an oiling and clean up and fix all the brass work to get it in running condition.
Steve_S

That's a nice engine Tony, and I'm sure it'll look great when you've done with it. What would the burner have been like originally? And how tall would the chimney have been?
Stitch

tmuir wrote:
I just realised something interesting about this model.
The flywheel is the same casting as used on the vericles but it is held in place by a screw you do up whilst on the Verticles it is just a friction fit.

I guessing they went to a friction fit as it was cheaper and easier and if so that means this is probably a very early one. Possibly as early as 1945, now I'm in a delemmer about the paint as its really bad, past the point of trying to save I feel but this is a very early rare model....

I need to see another one of these models to compare to now but this is the only one I've ever seen.


For now I may just give the base a light oiling, treat the firebox to electrolysis to remove the rust and give that an oiling and clean up and fix all the brass work to get it in running condition.


Interesting restoration Tony. You do face a dilemma. No matter what you decide, it is going to be a rare engine. I would like to hear more about the process of electrolysis and the firebox. Can you please briefly explain?
tmuir

Steve_S wrote:
That's a nice engine Tony, and I'm sure it'll look great when you've done with it. What would the burner have been like originally? And how tall would the chimney have been?


I'm not sure of what the burner looked like as I have never seen one, even the photos in my book dont show the burner so I will be making something that works but is not original.

I can guesstimate the chimney size from photos but don't have actual measurements.
I havent figured that out yet.
tmuir

Stitch wrote:

Interesting restoration Tony. You do face a dilemma. No matter what you decide, it is going to be a rare engine. I would like to hear more about the process of electrolysis and the firebox. Can you please briefly explain?


Its quite simple.
You basic use a low voltage constant current power supply.
Water with washing soda in it.
A sacrificial bit of steel and thats it.
I will find the link to a good web site tonight that explains it all.
Wallace

It looks good tony, and I look forward to seeing how things turn out
IndianaRog

Tony, I am also fascinated by this electrolysis option you commented on whereby with a few household chemicals and low voltage one can remove rust!!

You had a link explaining this...could you post again, I can't find it.

thanks,
Rog
tmuir

Here is the link to the website that explains how to remove rust by electrolysis.

It explains it far better than I can.

Just remember this will on work on steel or iron don't try to use this to remove corrosion from aluminium or brass..
http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/andyspatch/rust.htm
IndianaRog

Thanks Tony, I will give that a look.
cheers,
Rog
Stitch

tmuir wrote:
Here is the link to the website that explains how to remove rust by electrolysis.

It explains it far better than I can.

Just remember this will on work on steel or iron don't try to use this to remove corrosion from aluminium or brass..
http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/andyspatch/rust.htm


cheers, Tony. This looks very useful.
Stitch

tmuir wrote:
Here is the link to the website that explains how to remove rust by electrolysis.

It explains it far better than I can.

Just remember this will on work on steel or iron don't try to use this to remove corrosion from aluminium or brass..
http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/andyspatch/rust.htm


I forgot to ask before, have you tried this? I have had another read of the website and it looks fascinating. Given that it looks like I am going to be stuck inside for the weekend I might try and knock up a regulated power supply in preparation of trying it out sometime. [/i]
tmuir

Stitch wrote:

I forgot to ask before, have you tried this? I have had another read of the website and it looks fascinating. Given that it looks like I am going to be stuck inside for the weekend I might try and knock up a regulated power supply in preparation of trying it out sometime. [/i]


I've done this once.

I have a brass kero blow lamp that has an steel handle that was badly rusted when I got it.

Gave it a days treatment and the rust was all gone.
When you got to take it out of the water have a hair dryer or heater or even better still an oven ready to dry it quickly as the surface will rust very quickly if left wet.

One word of caution don't spill the water on anything. I spilt a couple of drops on my driveway and it took over a year for the rust stain to go away and dont connect the polarity the wrong way otherwise your presious engine becomes the sacrificial annode!!!
Stitch

tmuir wrote:


I've done this once.

I have a brass kero blow lamp that has an steel handle that was badly rusted when I got it.

Gave it a days treatment and the rust was all gone.
When you got to take it out of the water have a hair dryer or heater or even better still an oven ready to dry it quickly as the surface will rust very quickly if left wet.

One word of caution don't spill the water on anything. I spilt a couple of drops on my driveway and it took over a year for the rust stain to go away and dont connect the polarity the wrong way otherwise your presious engine becomes the sacrificial annode!!!


Good advice Tony. You have got me thinking. I have a badly rusted firebox that I might have a go at.
tmuir

Time for an update.

I've stripped the engine down and its all restorable.
It needs repainting but the only mat red heat resistant paint I could find was fire proof which would be great but it needs to be baked at 600 Degrees F for it to be completely set and oil resistant and as my oven doesn't get that hot I had to give it a miss.
I've settled for VHT brake and calliper paint which unfortunately is gloss and a bit lighter red than I would like but it will have to do.

I'm not sure when I will get to paint it as it is now getting to cold to paint outside.

Here is the engine in parts.


Notice the dent in the boiler,
I'm leaving that there as I'm likely to do even worse damage trying to remove it.

I've also got myself some brass tube and had a go at making a new funnel, it still needs to be cleaned up and polished.



As you can see I managed to dent the tube in a couple of places flaring the top so may make a better one in the future.
It was a good learning experience and I know the next one I do will be better.
Need to get some better brass tube as the stuff I bought from the hobby shop is just too thin walled and dents too easily.

I'll keep you all informed of my progress.
Mamodman123

All coming along nicely Tony!

Any chance of a boiler closeup?
tmuir

Mamodman123 wrote:
All coming along nicely Tony!

Any chance of a boiler closeup?


Yes.
I'll do one tomorrow.
Its a small boiler and rather than made from tube it made from sheet like all the other Scorpions.
Mamodman123

Made from sheet? So it isn't like a mamod one?
tmuir

Mamodman123 wrote:
Made from sheet? So it isn't like a mamod one?



Nope not at all.

Ok give me 5 mins I will go downstairs and snap a picture or two.
Mamodman123

Cheers Tony
tmuir

Boiler photos as requested.

Here you can see the seam of the sheet where it has been joined onto itself to form a tube.


The boiler has a screw to hold it to the firebox and notice how the end caps go inside the tube.


This one just gives you an idea of size of the boiler
tmuir

One point I should add about this engine is it was made directly after the war in Australia when tools and equipment were in short supply.
This is a very basic engine but as it was made in a shed by two men in their backyard using only a drill press and a Myford lathe in their spare time after finishing their day job, and they had to make them in quantities large enough for Sydney's biggest toy shop I think they didn't do too bad.
Mamodman123

Thanks tony! thats great!

I can see what you mean exactly now! I always like to see how things are made, makes them easier to fix that way

Good luck with the resto Tony! Keep us updated as I'm sure you will
Steve_S

Interesting about the seam in the boiler. The Cyldon boilers are like that too... at least, the two I have are.
SillyBilly

Just like a proper boiler, I belive you call it the seam.
Mamodman123

Was this boiler painted or polished?
Wallace

Coming along nicely Tony
tmuir

Polished its just covered in soot at the moment, haven't cleaned it yet and I dare say this is the first time its been removed from the firebox in its 60 years
IndianaRog

Tony, I believe I read that Roly Williams had used the VHT red on one of his engines and though glossy to start, it got a bit more satin with pre-baking...also unaffected by meths if a bit drips on it.

When I re-did the base on a Bowman E101 (wood)...I used a black paint that stood up well to heat in general, but spotted terribly from drips of meths...so much so that when I get some VHT black, I am going to respray it for another chance at bringing back a spot free shine.

Rog
tmuir

I hope it does tone down a bit but wont be finding out today as I need to spray outside and its only 11 C outside with 15kmphr winds so not really ideal spray paint weather.
oldstuff

Incredible, Tony. Got to be one of the most compelling threads I've read!
The photos, tidbits of info and intriguing design approaches concerning
your Scorpion Horizontal were appreciated and very much enjoyed!

Like Steve_S, the seamed boiler intrigues me. I wonder how it is joined?
I suspect both ends are folded so as to hook together and then soldered.
That the seam is directly over the flame, yet somehow doesn't desolder!
I also liked the way they anchored the boiler to the firebox...innovative,
yet simple, and quite different.

I thought you did very good work on that chimney, I'll bet you referred to
the picture in that book of yours constantly to aid in the making of it.

If you stick to your guns and hold off going for the one now on ebay,
it would be an incredible show of self-discipline, and my hat's off to you.
But should you weaken as the end approaches and end up clicking-to-win,
hat's off to you there, as well!

Thanks for the link to electrolytic rust removal guide...got it bookmarked!
Graham-Jilly

Great work Tony its looking good mate
keep up the great work
G-J
Sandman

I'm following this one with interest Tony.

I'm betting this engine will be a topper when finished.
flywheel61

It looks very basic, but as you said it was made in a time when machinery was very hard to get. I wonder if the the one on ebay now has a seam in itg as well. perhaps we can get the winner, if a forum member to do a pic of it as well.

Cheers

Chris
tmuir

Still havent done much more with this engine as the weather has been either too bad for painting or on the good days I havent had to time to strip back the paint and I don't like leaving metal unpainted for too long so waiting for when I can strip and paint in one weekend.

The chimney I got the rough height for from measuring from the picture in my book.
A seamed boiler was pretty much the standard on all OZ engines during that time.

I have pictures showing how to make the seam and will try to remeber to take photos and put it up tonight.

I may have another go at making a chimeny as I still have enough pipe left to make another one and I'm not completely happy with this one.

Thanks for all the comments
Sandman

My first attempt at chimney making was an unmitigated disaster Tony.

The second one was a bit better, but way below the standards of Steve_S.

I guess practice makes perfect mate.
James

Wow! Looks good Tony

I loved reading about the history
Mamodman123

Sandman wrote:
My first attempt at chimney making was an unmitigated disaster Tony.

The second one was a bit better, but way below the standards of Steve_S.

I guess practice makes perfect mate.


The thinner the tube the easier it is Sandy

I just slap paint on in any weather never really had a bad result
tmuir

I have to paint outside and its a bit hard to do that in the rain.

Cold doesn't really bother the enamel paints but really messes up acrylic paints.

I once tried to paint when it was 42 degrees C outside and the paint fried in the air between leaving the can and landing on the metal and made a real rough finish, had to sand it off and do it again on a cooler day.
Mamodman123

tmuir wrote:
I have to paint outside and its a bit hard to do that in the rain.

Cold doesn't really bother the enamel paints but really messes up acrylic paints.

I once tried to paint when it was 42 degrees C outside and the paint fried in the air between leaving the can and landing on the metal and made a real rough finish, had to sand it off and do it again on a cooler day.


Use an umbrella?

Paint drying as it leaves the can
tmuir

Mamodman123 wrote:


Paint drying as it leaves the can


Last summer we had one day of 46.7 degrees C or 116.06 degrees Fahrenheit in the old money, now that was hot!!
Mamodman123

tmuir wrote:
Mamodman123 wrote:


Paint drying as it leaves the can


Last summer we had one day of 46.7 degrees C or 116.06 degrees Fahrenheit in the old money, now that was hot!!


I think I would literally melt
tmuir

Mamodman123 wrote:
tmuir wrote:
Mamodman123 wrote:


Paint drying as it leaves the can


Last summer we had one day of 46.7 degrees C or 116.06 degrees Fahrenheit in the old money, now that was hot!!


I think I would literally melt


Lets just say I had the air-conditioning cranked on full, and lay on the couch with a cold drink.

I was considering taking an engine outside and resting it on the hot bricks and point a mirror at it to see if I could make it solar powered.
tmuir

Finally got a couple of days of good weather so made the most of it and got a lot of painting done.

Have removed the rust and painted the firebox with VHT racing red brake calliper paint.

I thought they had used a satin paint on the engine and as I couldn't get a satin heat resistant paint just decided I would have to live with gloss paint. But I was very pleased when I took some T-Cut to a small patch of paint that was remaining on the firebox and removed the dirt I discovered it had actually been gloss paint so I was very happy.

I also cleaned up the boiler, I decided not to attempt to remove the dents, they just give it some character.
The boiler had been lacquered at some point, don't know if this was the original lacquer but it was on very thick and was burnt and near impossible to remove.

I tried to remove it on the buff using my normal polishing compound but even that couldn't shift it and had to resort to cutting compound on the buffing wheel to get it off and then finished with polishing compound.

Here is some before photos to refresh your memories.





And the after photo.



I didn't have time to strip, treat and paint the base so that will have to wait until another weekend, but its getting there.

I'll be needing one of your Scorpions decals soon flywheel.
Mamodman123

Coming along nicely Tony!
Wallace

Coming up real nice Tony
James

I likes that!
oldstuff

Coming along well, Tony.

Was the paint in the old days somehow better than we have now?
I wonder if they fretted as much about high-temp as we do?
Perhaps they just baked what they had and sent it out the door!
tmuir

oldstuff wrote:
Coming along well, Tony.

Was the paint in the old days somehow better than we have now?
I wonder if they fretted as much about high-temp as we do?
Perhaps they just baked what they had and sent it out the door!


Judging by the amount of paint loss on the firebox of this engine the paint was most certainly not fireproof.

Hopefully once I repaint it, it will last more than 50 odd years before it needs another repaint.
Cranko

tmuir wrote:
Here is the link to the website that explains how to remove rust by electrolysis.

It explains it far better than I can.

Just remember this will on work on steel or iron don't try to use this to remove corrosion from aluminium or brass..
http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/andyspatch/rust.htm
Hi Tony, have you used this method successfully and what power source did you use please?
tmuir

I've done it once before and it worked well.
I have a constant current power supply that I built during my apprenticeship that I used to power it.
A car battery charger will work but just not as quickly.
Steve_S

It's looking very good Tony.
tmuir

Finally finished restoring this engine and just before I receive me second one.

This was a complete restoration, full strip down and repaint.

Here is a before picture


Now the after pictures




Notice in the picture below the opening into the firebox is round, Flywheel has another variation where it is square, mine also has a hole to help do up the boiler nut, Flywheel's hasn't.




The firebox is held onto the base plate with just tabs of metal that you bend.


This engine was also made with a black firebox which is what my other engine coming has.
bessytractor

thats excellent, really, really, really superb. I don't think the dent in the boiler really detracts, it makes it look like its got a history.

once again well done

now for your next one
Sandman

What an excellent job Tony.

You should be very proud of that.

Another old engine given a new lease of life.

Great to see mate.
tmuir

bessytractor wrote:
thats excellent, really, really, really superb. I don't think the dent in the boiler really detracts, it makes it look like its got a history.

once again well done

now for your next one


Yes I thought about removing the dent but as this boiler is made from a rolled sheet not a tube I thought I was likely to do more damage than good to the boiler so decided to leave it.

I'm really pleased with how it turned out.
I used brake and calliper paint on the firebox and base and that is good up to 482 C so will see how well it holds out once I fire it.
Atticman

Really great job there. Well done

Just in time for the next
SillyBilly

Beautifel finsih on the paint!
Johnny E

Properly stunning effort that one.

Be very proud of your efforts there.

A joy.
Graham-Jilly

great job Tony well done
Cranko

Looks good Tony
Mark-One

Excellent. You've got a real showpiece there now
Steve_S

It looks very good Tony. What a transformation!
johnreid

Wow!! that is a beautiful Job I bet that when you get the black based one that the pair will be the centerpiece of your collection.
Superb
Mamodman123

Wow now that came up well
IndianaRog

Tony, lovely job of bringing that one back to life...almost hard to believe it's the same firebox...looks like a smooth surface to a car door now!!
tmuir

Thanks everyone.
That was the first time I've used VHT break and Calliper paint, normally I use VHT's engine enamel.
The break and Caliper paint is a thinner paint and easy to get runs with so you have to do very light coats but I'm pleased with how it turned out.
Flywheels decal just gives it that little bit extra too, to completely round the restoration off.

The big test will come on the weekend when I try to run it.
flywheel61

Nice restoration job Tony, actually my horizontal Scorpion does have the the bolt soldered/brazed to the boiler and nut to hold the boiler onto the firebox. I noticed in your OZ engine web site you commented that the chimney was a reproduction one, did you make it your self? I got some round steel ferules made on a lathe to do the bell/flair on the top of the chimney and the slight expansion on the base but don''t seem to be able to get enough heat into the brass with a plumbers torch to be able to make it work.

Cheers

Chris
tmuir

Yes I made the chimney myself, didn't do a very good job on it and may make another one one day.
I heated the tube to dull red and held it there on just the end for a few seconds to anneal it and using rogs tip I used the sockets from my socket set it flare it out by putting it inside and tapping it with a rubber mallet.

I knew yours had the nut and bolt, just not the hole to make it easier to undo it. I may have worded that badly on my website, will have a read of it tonight and change the wording.

Once I receive my second ones I will give you the dimensions of the chimney.
Wallace

Excellent job Tony.

Very nice transformation
Reid

Tony, a great save of such a significant relic of toy steam history.

The renewed engine is now safe from loss, thanks to your skill and persistence and good judgment.

Amazing how they did so much, with pure determination, like yours, to make something from very little,
and thus inspire the children of all ages, then and now and into the future. You're a part of that engine onwards.

Thanks for the complete and clear documentation of the little beauty. It's a winner and so are you. Brilliant!
steamgranny

Another one successfully back from the brink - good work  
tmuir

Thanks Reid SG and everyone else.
I just received another one of these and its condition is pretty much equal to how I received this one with the exception it is complete. So another complete restoration coming.  
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