IndianaRog
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An SE3 of a slightly different color
I've wanted to do this since I first saw the SE3. I finally got the chance with a refinished engine I picked up from Moose. I took the workings of that older SE3 and mounted them on a nice walnut plinth via new brass rod tie downs, adding a generator and lamp post. I have a thing for wood and I like my engines to DO something...so voila.
I love the built in oiler wells on each cylinder block and within the blocks sit felt oil retention pads, a very nice touch. I put some of Reid's fine piano felt to good use there!!! Also look at the ends of the conrods...I've not seen that sort before!
The walnut plinth by the way was a former awards plaque my lovely wife found in a garage sale for 25 cents...she bought 3 identical ones, so I have more conversions on the horizon.
I experimented with DC motors as generators...found the first I tried (Austrian beauty) was just too much drag for the SE3 to properly power, it bogged down and produced little light. Instead I found a light weight DC can motor, mounted it inside a short section of nickeled brass drain pipe wrapped in a custom made brass mount I cut and soldered up from sheet brass. The pulley is a Wilesco sourced one that is simply epoxy "welded" on the end of an impossible to remove "gear" on the motor's shaft...pulley is not going to fall off any time soon!
As I didn't want meths spills in the firebox to ruin the polyurethane finish or the wood...I lined the firebox base with a shallow brass tray with a retaining clip to hold the burner centered. The burner wasn't putting out like it should, so I desoldered one end, removed the old cotton wadding and replaced it with cotton mop dreadlocks (courtesy of Oldstuff). I cleaned the screen mesh which was 2/3 blocked with gummy residue, then reassembled. Very happy with the flame output now.
All in all I am delighted with how an SE3 sounds and performs on a wooden base...solid and very steady. I'm also happy with the light output, though I might experiment a bit more finding the optimum bulb. Liking to fabricate replacement decals myself, I photo shopped one I'd purchased from MM and had my way with it. Forgive me my English friends...the devil made me do it  , but hopefully I did improve a classic English steam engine with a bit of Indiana re-engineering.
I will make a video of it running in the morning and post later on Friday. It's been a fun project...I highly recommend it.
Rog
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johnreid
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I LOVE IT!
Love the decal too 
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mogogear
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Rog- Your watermark is that you slightly adjust most things you acquire...Like Bogstandards 3 rings, your signature style is individual..... it seems to land in many ways in different places.
Nicely done Mamod-- and great lens focus job!1
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paul_c
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Clean and classy, would have to go in for engine of the month. Beautiful work an absolute joy to look at. 
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flywheel61
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As a solid (read conventional) Mamod supporter I thought oh oh, may I congratulate you on a remarkable transformation, I think it's superb. The decal on the base board is a brilliant personal touch,  , I must talk to my decal maker about that idea, .
Those con rod ends put the date of the engine between the late50's to early60's.
It shows what can be done when someone is willing to step outside the square.
Cheers
Chris
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Mister Occlusion
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Wow. You have a flair for the finish. It's almost a shame to muck it up by firing it
I will be interested to hear how much different it sounds than a stock SE3. Mine sound like floor standing scroll saws
Still have my own decals waiting for a krylon coating. I have suffered so much varied disappointment with them that I have quite lost interest for the time being.
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Nick
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Much better than the original. 
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Manxman
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Well I tend to be firmly in the camp of "keep tings original" and, I'm wrong. That just looks very special. The delux version. I love it and you've managed to changed average into a real class piece of kit.
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steamyman
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real class that is.
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Stilldrillin
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Rog.
That is absolutely gorgeous.....  As usual!
I really love the decal.
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Sandman
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Beautiful piece of modding and a credit to your skills Rog.
That would look great in anyones collection.
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Wallace
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That looks really nice Rog. Great job.
Can't beleive how much a wooden base can change the look of an engine.
Really suits the SE3
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steamyjim
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Brilliant Rog! I love modified engines like that
Gives me motivation to finish my SE3 power plant
I want to do a decal for my D20 power plant-any ideas?
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Lewis
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I like to keep things orignal but this is an exception
Well done mate looks really good !
Love the "improved in Indiana"
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Mamodman123
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ITs better since I last saw it, is that possible? Well yes!
Beautiful job you've done on that Rog, it looks stunning to say the least! May I ask what you polished the boiler with? It's such a wonderful colour.
Can't wait for the video!
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IndianaRog
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Thanks all for the kind words...I honestly didn't know if I'd find a mob with pitchforks ready to string me up this morning for having re-worked a Mamod classic. I purposely tried to avoid anything that was not reversible...it could be put back to original configuration if desired with no evidence of the morphing process!
Yes Chris, that decal started life as one of yours sold to me by MM...then photographed and re-tooled with my tongue in cheek "Improved in Indiana" mod. This is a one time use, NOT intended for further Mamods which I have no intention of mucking with. Thanks for the dating info. I thought the con rod ends were a distinguishing factor.
MM...the boiler was polished with SimiChrome...I love the color it leaves and it actually makes future polishings easier, must leave a coating on it.
Steamyjim and Mark, I can give you a few pointers on making water slide decals...will share via PM. BUT, I must say with high quality versions made by Chris and distributed by MM...there is really no reason to make your own at least for Mamod pieces. Mine took me no less than several hours of mucking with it...real pain to make those things, especially a two layer version like I used...only made that decal mod for grins.
MM...glad you liked the finished item...you saw it a couple of weeks ago when I tried the Austrian generator on it...looks were great, performance poor. The current generator is simple, cheap and works great.
Now, need to eat some breakfast (7:30 am here)...and later this am make a video of it running.
Rog
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Griffin
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My, Rog you are a brave man indeed to mod an SE3
Seriously though, you have done a lovely job on the transformation, carried out to the usual high standard that is common of the Temple of Steam.
I like the way you have made the mounting bracket for the dynamo/motor, looks very authentic. Definitely worthy of "Improved in Indiana" Great to see, and look forward to the video.
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James
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Bloody hell Rog, that looks grand
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mc_mc
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I heartily approve too. The dynamo mount is really nice. The wooden base just adds pure class too. I can see this being a good engine of the month candidate some time.
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steamyjim
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| mc_mc wrote: | | I heartily approve too. The dynamo mount is really nice. The wooden base just adds pure class too. I can see this being a good engine of the month candidate some time. |
Aye i agree
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bessytractor
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now that looks really nice!
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oldstuff
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It's a Jensemamod!
Rog, I gotta hand it to you. You foresaw a potentially beautiful interpretation
for the SE3 and made it happen. You knew it would be, and so it is...LOVELY!
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IndianaRog
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Thanks guys...
now Chuck, with all due respect, the only bit of Jensen on that engine layout is a lamp post and drive belt...so I must correct you...not a Jensemamod...maybe Mamajense (boy that sounds odd)!!! Dynamo came out of a Canon printer I tore apart, not a stepper, just found when I spun it with a dremel it made a lamp light...good enough for me and very little drag on the engine.
Just made a video, got to get it uploaded and shared.
Rog
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Mamodman123
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The dynamo on the showmans just looks like a motor, but has the power to light low voltage LED's!
Can't wait for the video! 
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johnreid
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Ministeam sells the Mamod Dynamo for $21.55 USD it has been tempting me for some time now. I know it is just a can motor, but it looks nice and has the mounting bracket too.
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oldstuff
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| IndianaRog wrote: | Thanks guys...
now Chuck, with all due respect, the only bit of Jensen on that engine layout is a lamp post and drive belt...so I must correct you...not a Jensemamod...maybe Mamajense (boy that sounds odd)!!! Dynamo came out of a Canon printer I tore apart, not a stepper, just found when I spun it with a dremel it made a lamp light...good enough for me and very little drag on the engine.
Just made a video, got to get it uploaded and shared.
Rog |
I must explain! It's the "flavor" of the piece to which I refer. Now it might be due
to the artist's experience with Jensens, but maybe it just makes me feel that
way because some old Jensens I recall seeing were arranged similarly and came
to mind when I first saw your E-SE3. Whether or not the Jensen Effect is real
or just my imagination, I much admire and applaud the result!
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Les Marsh
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Now I have seen the video, I must say that it looks first class. Well done. 
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Mister Occlusion
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Ta, Rog. You gave me tips a few months ago, and so far I've gone only so far as buying a can of clear krylon. If I ever get the bloody things sealed without the ink running all over I still have to cut out every single toothy gear with a razor because they're printed on white paper. (tis a decal of my logo)
Since I'm teetotal I'm a bit afraid to see what it will drive me to, so I've wisely shelved the project
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Stilldrillin
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Re: An SE3 of a slightly different color | IndianaRog wrote: | | The burner wasn't putting out like it should, so I desoldered one end, removed the old cotton wadding and replaced it with cotton mop dreadlocks (courtesy of Oldstuff). I cleaned the screen mesh which was 2/3 blocked with gummy residue, then reassembled. Very happy with the flame output now.Rog |
Rog, I don`t know if you now understand the method of stripping those SE3 burners.....
The mesh is not full width, only aperture + 1 retaining side.
It is assembled after the box is soldered & filled. (I guess).
Press down on the mesh, to compress the stuffing & slide it sideways, fully under the lip at one side.
The mesh will then be (almost, usually) free of the other side & can be slipped upwards & out with a knife blade........
Hope this makes sense. 
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IndianaRog
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| Mister Occlusion wrote: | Ta, Rog. You gave me tips a few months ago, and so far I've gone only so far as buying a can of clear krylon. If I ever get the bloody things sealed without the ink running all over I still have to cut out every single toothy gear with a razor because they're printed on white paper. (tis a decal of my logo)
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Mark, two thoughts.
1) If your ink is running when you spray Krylon on, you are either spraying when ink has not fully dried or drenching it with the Krylon.
Give the ink a couple of hours to dry and apply light, dusting sort of coats of Krylon...several 10 minutes apart.
2) To avoid having to cut out your "gear" teeth, switch from white to clear water slide decal paper. Make your decal's gold background white in your graphics program and when decal prints the part that is now gold on your decal will be clear (white=clear). Consider this lettered decal to be a SECOND decal layer. Now make a FIRST layer by spray painting gold onto some scraps of unused decal paper...let that dry well. Now, trim the gold piece so it fits within the boundries of the SECOND decal and apply the gold one first. Roll out the bubbles with gentle blotting and/or a small roller. NOW apply the SECOND decal layer, your letters and gear over the top of the gold one...voila, no gear tooth trimming and a better gold background than ink jet printers can do.
Now I have shared the family jewels...go forth and create!!!
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IndianaRog
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Re: An SE3 of a slightly different color | Stilldrillin wrote: | | IndianaRog wrote: | | The burner wasn't putting out like it should, so I desoldered one end, removed the old cotton wadding and replaced it with cotton mop dreadlocks (courtesy of Oldstuff). I cleaned the screen mesh which was 2/3 blocked with gummy residue, then reassembled. Very happy with the flame output now.Rog |
Rog, I don`t know if you now understand the method of stripping those SE3 burners.....
The mesh is not full width, only aperture + 1 retaining side.
It is assembled after the box is soldered & filled. (I guess).
Press down on the mesh, to compress the stuffing & slide it sideways, fully under the lip at one side.
The mesh will then be (almost, usually) free of the other side & can be slipped upwards & out with a knife blade........
Hope this makes sense. |
David, it NOW makes infinite sense...surely would have been easier than desoldering and resoldering to get at the burner inerds as I did. Oh well, may others learn from this experience!!!
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Stilldrillin
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Rog, it`s a good job I cannot solder as good as you, I may have done the same.
I did some exploring first.........
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James
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Rog, I missed the "Improved in Indiana" first time round 
That looks really good
You MUST enter it for Engine of the Month!!
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toxx
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... oh my, Rog! It's terrific! Great work, done with expertise and taste. Ich salutiere, mein Freund!
Makes mine look like a wino ...
I am also a great fan of the SE3 - power in these things and good English workmanship. I also used some of Reid's cloth - but for washers between my big flywheel and the wheel frame.
Cheers, mate!
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johnreid
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| James wrote: | Rog, I missed the "Improved in Indiana" first time round
That looks really good
You MUST enter it for Engine of the Month!! |
Try for May as James hasnt made the draw yet 
I think the wood base gives it a different sound too, I like that.
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steamgranny
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The decal says it all...................... 
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