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A couple on months ago I won this TE1A on Ebay.
Average sort of condition but missing the whistle and level plug. The front axle was also bent and its pivot broken but the 'mechanicals' looked sound.
So was it to be a simple restoration or actually improve it?
James Staley
What's unusual about it??
MrMamod
Nice restro project for you to get stuck into BUT why is it a UNUSUAL TE1a as Stated in your headline ..
Quorneng
The first job was to thread the axle ends and fit blind nuts.
The nut is actually steel but with brass plates soldered on on.
The front axle was treated in the same way.
A new (old) whistle was acquired from Ebay and a new level plug made.
To my mind both the traction engine and road roller are much too high geared. By using a counter shaft arrangement similar to the car chassis an additional 5:1 reduction was possible.
By turning the flywheel around on the shaft (and adding a grub screw) there was just space to fit a pulley between the rear wheel and the firebox.
The shaft runs in a brass bracket assembly riveted to a rear edge of the firebox.
A small pulley carries the drive to the opposite rear wheel.
The final mod was to add additional bearing surface where the rear axle passes through the thin firebox sheeting.
The completed engine.
So far it has only run on air as it is waiting for a burner and a scuttle.
ItSteams
very neat job , ill try to remember that one
xlchainsaw
very neat. and it would go a treat, i know.. i have a tela converted to a crane engine ...a sr1a roller and a standard te1a ..... all converted the same way. the public luv seeing them steam around a tabletop board .
here is a vid
Quorneng
Hi
Now that is a really low speed reduction!
I notice you have the option to drive both rear wheels. Does this work or does it impair the steering too much?
xlchainsaw
i only drive on one wheel... the extra pulley changes the speed or when it stationary i use the reduction on the ferris wheel.
Quorneng
xichainsaw
My dad, who was a serious model engineer, had a saying very similar to yours:
"The impossible we do at once, miracles take a little longer"
xlchainsaw
lol lol yes there are more qualified people than i ...im just a "handyman" ....jack of all trades ...master of three bit old now to go for four.
kevin
I like this, I thought i had finnished working on my TE1a but I have started taking it apart again so hope you dont mind if i copy your idea.
kevin
So had a play and this is my copy of your idea, sorry about the muck its still in the workshop waiting a clean, oh and a replacement for the grotty green elastic band
Quorneng
Kevin
Very nice.
I see you had to space out the LH rear wheel a bit to clear the second pulley.
I do like your steering gear. Is it a home build or taken from a Wilseco?
kevin
Yes I already had spaced it a little as to match the stearing side which was spaced out to give some clearence, could have probably squeezed it in but there is no point in making life hard.
The stearing is basically Willesco but i made the bracket and spacers to get it central as the willesco seems to be a bit narrower. I then used the cog on my own stearing rod passing through 2 brass bossess and with spacer tubes over the rod also brass, I then tucked a repainted wheel in tight to the firebox and spun a small brass handle to replace the grotty plastic one. Easy addition but you need a lathe to make some small bits and pieces. I could not resist using the cute M3 dome nuts i got off ebay and one even found its way onto the top of my whistle mods.
TE1DRIVER
drive bands from an sa1 do well that's what i have on my heath robinson version of your mod
Casey Jones Snr
that is a very fine modification. I'm impressed.
Quorneng
When I bought my TE1A off Ebay it was in the usual "Its been in the shed for years" condition.
The answer is this rather bland looking box.
Of simple and stout construction, the TE1A fits snugly inside.
The lid bracket locates on the boiler between the fire box and the safety valve.
Wheel chocks and a nose block prevent any fore and aft movement.
There is space for the scuttle and burner.