Layfield light rly
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best gluewhich glue works best?
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pauly
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on steamers? well I wouldnt use glue on live steam locos.
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redryder
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I chose solder but solder isn't a glue at all and specifically it should be silver solder.
I have to agree with Pauly that glue does not have a place on live steam locos.
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johnreid
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I am with Pauly and Gil, Solder isnt really glue. but being as many of th components are assembled with solder, I chose that.
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Roly Williams
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What for? They all have their advantages and disadvantages for different jobs.
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AzRob
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| Roly Williams wrote: | | What for? They all have their advantages and disadvantages for different jobs. |
I agree with this. If your boiler is lagged, the exterior doesn't get unbearably hot, and some folks do choose to superglue/liquid nails detail parts to the exterior (source: MLS). Same with other parts. When I bought Los Dos, the handrails on the saddle tanks were glued on, not soldered. Cab roof and buffer beams could also be places where strong glue could be applied.
I think on hot surfaces, and especially on unclad boilers, solder should be the preferred method of attaching detail parts (if no mechanical method, i.e. screws or bolts, can be used).
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Les
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It depends on what you want to fix and where you want to fix it to.
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paul_c
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I agree with Les, not enough info to answer.
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hansdampf
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the most universal glue is 2K epoxy (must be, cause I'm working since 1997 for to companies in the R 'n' D dept.).
OK, so much for advertizing, but it really is..
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bessytractor
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I wouldn't use glue on a steam loco tbh. Its not really doing the job proper in my opinion (which of course means nothing  )
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tmuir
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Yes depends on what parts you are talking about.
I used loktite on my Lady Anne to stop all the screws from coming undone and a dab of araldite to hold on the brass side tank caps.
the bodywork was all soft soldered by me and everthing else was screwed on.
What parts in particular are you thinking about gluing up?
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bessytractor
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actually I should point out I told a slight lie. At the steam railway I drive at if we get a loose driving wheel we knurl the axle to swell it and then press it back on with some Loctite 601 to keep it in position. This is the only bit of glue we use but its a quick way of mending an engine and it usually works first time.
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Layfield light rly
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i need to fix the piston head onto the piston rod (again).
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scorpion2nz
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| Layfield light rly wrote: | | i need to fix the piston head onto the piston rod (again). |
Again !!!!
you need to do it right it should be threaded or soldered
has was it attached the first time ?
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Layfield light rly
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i don't now. this is about the 6th time this has happened. well, we know mamod does on ething better than PPS, the pistons don't fall apart!!!
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made-in-england
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Buy yourself a small tap and die thread both parts respectivly, put a dab of loctite on and then screw together....
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Layfield light rly
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at the mo im using thread lock (locktite) and so far its lasted a week. (the other attemps lasted 1 day!!!!). when it comes off im in trubble.
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bessytractor
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well I can tell you now that what your doing will never work. Why? Because loctites arch enemy is heat. If you need to release a loctited joint then you heat it! Steam cylinders get hot and stay hot. They also are subject to a lot of oil. This also degrades loctite.
Save yourself a lot of aggro and put the glue away. It will not work in this application. Will's (Made in England) suggestion is the best so far as it is more or less what we do in the larger passenger hauling scales (though we don't use the threadlock with superheated steam for exactly the reason stated above!)
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Layfield light rly
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thanks
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Titan
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Or better still just save yourself all the hassle and get the piston upgrade kit from dream steam. At £12.99 it will fix the problem permanantly and give you better performance to boot.
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Layfield light rly
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Titan:i already have the PPS gas flow cylinders and thats what keeps falling off.
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