mc_mc
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Best way to empty the all water from engines?Hi, What's the best way to make sure that all the water has been removed from an engine after it has been steamed? My traction engine doesn't seem to have a drain valve, just the one safety valve / filler hole.
If I hold it upside down I only get a few drops. Spinning the flywheel seems to eject most of it, and a bit of gentle shaking gets a bit more. But if I come back later and tip it upside down even more gushes out.
I assume it's good practice not to leave water inside the engine when it's not going to be used?
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tmuir
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If you hold it upside down and pull the cylinder back off the port face the water will come out fairly well but you will never get it all out so its best to store the engine with the safety valve removed to allow it to dry out the last bit by itself.
Leaving the water in for a few days wouldnt hurt it but water left in the boiler for long periods can cause problems.
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Griffin
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TE1a's also retain water in the exhaust chamber( the front part of the boiler and the black smoke box bit) , Just hold it upside down and shake the water out, then let the engine stand on a towel for a while, as water will drip down through the axle steering spindle.
This is quite normal for TE1a's, and you will find TE1's drip even more water from the axle spindle.
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Mamodman123
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Hold the whistle down or open the whistle and it will come out then! Turn the engine upside down of course 
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SPOKESMAN
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Just about covers it mc!
When emptied leave the safety valve off for a few hours to let the water/damp to evaporate.
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mc_mc
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A drain plug on the bottom of the boiler would be useful. 
I don't really like (gently) shaking my prized model over the sink I was a bit worried something might fall off!
Anyone know how do they do it on the full size engine? Or do they never bother?
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mc_mc
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| tmuir wrote: | | If you hold it upside down and pull the cylinder back off the port face the water will come out fairly well... |
Hi, sorry you used some jargon I didn't quite perhaps understand...
Do you mean pull the cylinder / piston housing against it's spring so there's a gap between the stationary brass flat panel and the moving cylinder / piston assembly?
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Griffin
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| mc_mc wrote: | | tmuir wrote: | | If you hold it upside down and pull the cylinder back off the port face the water will come out fairly well... |
Hi, sorry you used some jargon I didn't quite perhaps understand...
Do you mean pull the cylinder / piston housing against it's spring so there's a gap between the stationary brass flat panel and the moving cylinder / piston assembly? |
Yes thats it, also as MM said holding the whistle open will let air in too.
Shaking the engine will not harm it, as long as you do not drop it.
Real engines have a 'Blow down' valve at the bottom of the boiler, at the end of the day you open the valve whilst in steam, this them clears the silt and scale out of the boiler. Water is left in the boiler except when maintenance is being undertaken on the boiler.
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Roly Williams
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| mc_mc wrote: | A drain plug on the bottom of the boiler would be useful.
I don't really like (gently) shaking my prized model over the sink I was a bit worried something might fall off!
Anyone know how do they do it on the full size engine? Or do they never bother? |
On full sized engines, they usually do the opposite and fill the boiler right up as far as the injector will take it. Then, as it cools down, the water level drops to the right level for firing up next day. Boilers are only emptied for occasional washout or maintenance or if they are going to be left standing for a while - especially in Winter.
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Mamodman123
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On the other end of the scale, don't leave water in your Mamods 
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Sandman
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| Mamodman123 wrote: | | On the other end of the scale, don't leave water in your Mamods |
Or in a damp atmosphere. (Pink Measles) 
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Mamodman123
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| Sandman wrote: | | Mamodman123 wrote: | | On the other end of the scale, don't leave water in your Mamods |
Or in a damp atmosphere. (Pink Measles) |
Keep them in a warm dry place. Well as long as the air is dry it would be ok.
Problem is, half of the Mamods in the world have been in lofts and sheds
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Wallace
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I didn't catch if it was mentioned, but always store your engines with the safety valve out, overflow plug out, and I always back the whistle off 1 turn.
When doing a whistle, make sure it's ok to unscrew in the first place.
Doing all this allows airflow into the boiler and the whistle turn will stop it ever seizing up.
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SPOKESMAN
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The whole process got so much more fidly when they introduced the sight glass!
Thank the Germans for that!
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Mamodman123
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| SPOKESMAN wrote: | The whole process got so much more fidly when they introduced the sight glass!
Thank the Germans for that! |
Yeah with the roadster 
the Germans don't allow blood in computer games
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James
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Call of duty 3 is out then
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Wallace
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| Mamodman123 wrote: | | SPOKESMAN wrote: | The whole process got so much more fidly when they introduced the sight glass!
Thank the Germans for that! |
Yeah with the roadster
the Germans don't allow blood in computer games |
Really?
They didn't design the SNES did they 
Cos I had a megadrive, sold it, bought a snes, then when mortal kombat come out, bought another megadrive, cos it had blood
I think it was that game
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SPOKESMAN
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Before Malins could sell the SA1 in Germany they insisted it has a sight glass instead of an overflow plug.
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Mamodman123
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| Wallace wrote: | | Mamodman123 wrote: | | SPOKESMAN wrote: | The whole process got so much more fidly when they introduced the sight glass!
Thank the Germans for that! |
Yeah with the roadster
the Germans don't allow blood in computer games |
Really?
They didn't design the SNES did they
Cos I had a megadrive, sold it, bought a snes, then when mortal kombat come out, bought another megadrive, cos it had blood
I think it was that game |
They replaced something in Turok with robots.. therefore removing any blood silly really
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