SlideValve
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Boiler strap rivets or screws?Hi, I have a Jensen 5 that the rivets have been removed. It came 4 screws with no nuts(they look like wood screws), that I am not sure are original or not, is there a certain time period were they used screws only? Lastly, i don't know if the original size of the holes has been enlarged by the possibly aftermarket screws, so replacement rivets might be to small. So should i go with boiler strap screws or rivets?
Connor
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Mark-One
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The rivets are a must if you are restoring to original condition. Jensen sells the proper ones. They also sell nuts & bolts for those who do not want to mess with the rivets.
The wood screws I doubt are correct.
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SlideValve
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| Mark-One wrote: | The rivets are a must if you are restoring to original condition. Jensen sells the proper ones. They also sell nuts & bolts for those who do not want to mess with the rivets.
The wood screws I doubt are correct. |
Yep I thought that too, I need boiler new boiler straps anyway, and a couple other parts, so I'll order some rivets and see if they fit.
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johnreid
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Look on my Jensen project 35 page and you can see how to do the rivets, make sure that you specify that you want the eyelets like those that are for the boiler straps, each firebox uses 8
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IndianaRog
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Connor, Jensen sells the rivets for something like 17 cents each last time I bought some. If you need 4 buy at least a dozen...reason being you will ruin some trying to flare over the inside facing part of the rivet. John gives some good tips on "how to"...but most of us ruin a few for each one we get right!
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Griffin
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I have found you can close the Jensen eyelet rivets by using a pop rivet gun.
Firstly, remove the correct size aluminium pop rivet from the steel shank, then replace with the Jensen eyelet rivet, making sure you have the flared end at the head end of the shank.
Insert the shank into the rivet gun as normal and place the rivet in situ. Close the gun up until the head snaps of the shank and the job is done. Just take your time closing the last bit up, so as not to risk dragging the head through the eyelet rivet.
Also just be careful so as not to scratch any finishes with the end of the gun when the shank snaps.
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IndianaRog
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Steven, I have never tried that...will do next time I need to rivet a boiler strap or the false tray in the bottom of some Jensen fireboxes. Sounds a lot easier than my technique of inverting the firebox and pounding with a phillips head screwdriver!
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johnreid
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I will have to try that too, I have noticed that on a new Jensen the "4 way split" caused by the screwdriver is evident, I am sure that they use a regular punch for them, probably made by Tom Sr.
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igy569
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Before you replace the the straps.. consider that the originals straps are brass. The replacements are steel. They will be a completely different color. 
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johnreid
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The steel looks better if the nickle plating is gone though.
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igy569
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| johnreid wrote: | | The steel looks better if the nickle plating is gone though. |
True. I guess it depends on ones individual preferences, and the condition of the nickel on the boiler. 
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IndianaRog
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NEW straps from Jensen are actually made of stainless steel, not just regular steel.
You can get a close approx. of the look of a nickel plated brass one by careful polishing of the stainless with a Dremel pad and Maas or Simichrome type polish.
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metalhead100
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| IndianaRog wrote: | | Sounds a lot easier than my technique of inverting the firebox and pounding with a phillips head screwdriver! |
| johnreid wrote: | | I have noticed that on a new Jensen the "4 way split" caused by the screwdriver is evident. |
Ahhhhh Its all clear now.......Rog is moonlighting at the Jensen shop setting rivets......
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johnreid
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Or Jensen bought one of Rogers engines and are in fact copying him 
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IndianaRog
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| johnreid wrote: | | Or Jensen bought one of Rogers engines and are in fact copying him |
doh....that's supposed to be a secret
I sure hope Jensen has something better for setting rivets than my phillips head screwdriver approach! I like Griffins idea...will try that on my next one.
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johnreid
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I have found that a pair of Vice Grips holding one of those half inch lonh Phillips bits works great for the eyelets on the side, I just strike the side of the Vice grips and do not fight trying to hit the bit inside the firebox.
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