Bowman 122 restoration

RocDoc · Bowman 122 restoration

Hi everyone,

Here it is ... the latest addition to my 'twin Bowman' collection, many thanks to MamodFan.

Needs a bit of work here and there (e.g. clean and polish, re-painting, new oilers, SV, exhaust to chimney and whistle) but overall in very good condition. Engine turns over with no effort so should be a really good runner.

Pete

Wallace

Looks like a great project.

Look forward to the results

Cam

Wish i had one....i havent seen many ebay

can't wait till you've completed the restoration!

good luck

Mamodman123

Something to get your teeth into that one! The countershaft will be tricky to replace! Unless you opt for a meccano one?

Les

Good luck.

Nick

Looks like a fun project.

What's it supposed to look like?

johnreid

Did it at one time have Oilers like that which is on my M135? I see the holes in the cylinder covers which is why I am asking.
I bet it being a twin has a lot of power, I am amazed at how much power the M135 has.
I envy you on that one as I bet it will be a showpiece when finished.

Les

The122 did come with oilers when new, but not all models had them fitted, they were an optional extra.

RocDoc

I've seen some with and some without oilers. I'm going to try and make some like Steve did with his. That's the grand plan anyway. Got to finish the M167 restoration first.

Pete

Steve_S

Well, there's lots of potential there.... it'll be a cracking engine when you're finished. I've never seen an M122 with the steam valve in that position. They're usually (always?) in the horizontal portion of the steam pipe just after it leaves the boiler. Judging by the messy solder on the boiler I'd say that the pipe has been unsoldered at some time in the past, and it's almost as if its been put back on the wrong way round. Easily fixed though! As MM says the counter shaft might be hard to replace. Not impossible though.

I'm sure you'll manage the oilers! (....then the sky's the limit.

)

Atticman

Mines horizontal Steve, think you are right there.

Has great potential, when going they are great

pauly

looks like a good fun project

good luck

RocDoc

RocDoc

Hi everyone,

Been a bit quiet recently ... too much work and stuff. Anyway, the 122 restoration - stage 1 is complete thanks to Mooseman (plumbing), MamodFan (whistle) and Chris at Toy Train Spares (SV and filler plug).

Still more to do but in the meantime, here is a video of the 122 in action. Note the unique exhaust trap ...

(I apologize in advance for the quality of the video).

Cheers

Pete

http://s164.photobucket.com/album...ion=view&current=MOV02839.flv

Les

Great video and I am glad to see it running, as for the exhaust trap I have this feeling that it might not catch on, good though.

RocDoc

Thanks Les. I got the idea from a painting ...

As they say on Dragon's Den "I don't see a future in shell exhaust traps ... I'm out"

Pete

RocDoc

Just to keep the M122s at the top of the restoration board, here is a progress photo of my 122 restoration. Not as 'complete' as Steve's engine but getting there.

Pete

Steve_S

It's M122 night on the forum! It looks great so far Pete. What paint did you use for the base? I used some from Wilkinsons... cheap and a nice colour.

James

Looking real good mate!

Les

That looks great and it is a lot further ahead than mine.

RocDoc

Steve_S

I think you'll be OK with the Hammerite. I've used Smooth Black on fireboxes and it seems to take the heat.

RocDoc

It's been a while since I took on the M122 and I can say that it's almost done ... well, the first phase anyway. It has a new coat of paint and sporting a new whistle, SV and filler plug ... and not to mention the decal of course.

I've still got the oilers to make, the exhaust pipe to the chimney and the chimney cap ... and not to mention the burner ... still plenty to do.

Here are a few photos to show you the progess so far. Just noticed that the red base appears to be too 'fire red'. I think this is due to the flash and not the paint. The Green also looks a bit too green. Again this is the flash as I used Rover Brooklands Green for the engine frame.

Hope the Forum is pleased ...

johnreid

That looks so good, you should be so proud. A real good job.

rangerssteamtoys

Great job

Sandman

OOooh NICE ONE.

Steve_S

That looks great Pete, well done!

Les

That is very well done.

Cam

wow that looks great, well done Thumbs up!

Atticman

Coming on very well Pete, great to see 3 peoples M122s all coming together like this

RocDoc

Here is my first attempt at making some oilers for my 122. I essentially followed Steve's thread on making oilers and badgered Roly many times for the dimensions of the taps.

Like Steve, I started with some brass sheet. I pre-cut the sheet into a disk shape and formed the sheet into the caps using two wooden formers. I had to anneal the sheet 3 to 4 times to make the final shape. I only had one failure and that was because I was hammering the cap against a brick rather then wood.

Next the oiler tubes. These were made from solid brass rod with a hole drilled down the center. A smaller hole was drilled through the rod to take the tap. I bought a hand reamer for 1 penny from ebay to ream the hole (the cost was £2.51 including postage ... when the package arrived, the actual postage was 70p ... so the 1 penny reamer cost me £1.81). Again, I only had one cock-up ... because I was using a cheap rubbish drill stand. I found that I was getting better control using a good old fashioned hand drill.

The taps were fun to make. Again, Steve's thread helped a lot, so too did Roly who provided accurate dimensions. Rather then using an electric drill, I used a hand drill. The drill was held in a workmate. Turning the drill with my left hand, I fashioned the tap from a solid brass rod (which was held in the drill chuck) with a file with my right hand. Great for hand-eye coordination ... pretty safe too but a bit long winded. Took me about two and half hours to make a tap. Final stage was to drill the holes in the tap ... one partly along the length of the bottom part of the tap, the other at right angles to align with the hole in the oiler tube. Once I'd drilled the hole in the bottom of the tap, I put the tap into the oiler tube, held it in a vice and drilled down the existing hole in the oiler tube into the tap. Perfect alignment of holes.

Heated the 'stem' part of the tap and bent to shape. I had to make three taps as one was rubbish. Solderd the oiler tubes in place and finished off with drilling holes in the caps and in the bases ready for mounting onto the engine frame.

I don't have any original oilers to work against so I can't tell whether mine are 'Bowman' correct or not. I suspect that they are not 100% accurate ... they may be too big or too wide or have caps that are slightly domed rather than being flat. Never-the-less, I'm pretty chuffed with the result considering that this was my first attempt at scratch building oilers.

I'll take some 'money shot' photos once I've mounted the oilers onto the engine (just waiting for some screws to arrive).

Cheers

Pete

Steve_S

They look fantastic Pete! Well done! I haven't tried using a reamer... must have a go.

Les

They look great, well done.

Sandman

Great job. Really well done.

When I make my oiler taps, I just file a flat on one side of the taper to let the oil run. Trial and error as to how big the flat needs to be. Works great as well.

RocDoc

I haven't testing mine with steam oil yet. It's going to be interesting when I steam up the 122.

That reminds me ... are there supposed to be pads or something on the cranks on to which the oil drips? What's to stop the oil just flowing over the cranks and out of the cylinder covers?

Thanks

Pete

tmuir

Nice job, that should complete your Bowman off nicely.

johnreid

I believe that it is some sort of Hat Felt that is used, I still dont see how it lubricates the cylinder, a real cool feature but does it really oil anything other than the crank?

Kritika

That is simply brilliant Pete,

well done mate

RocDoc

RocDoc

Hi everyone,

And now for your delictation and delight ... I'm proud to present to this forum (big fanfare) ... a restored Bowman M122.

I've finally finished although I think you never actually finish a restoration. The final job was to make an exhaust tube. There are a few things still left to do, like acquire or make a chimney cap ... but the bulk is done.

What's new? ... the burner and whistle from MammodFan ... SV and filler plug from Toy Train Spares and a logo from Mamodman123. Lots of people helped in one way or another ... Mooseman, Steve and Roly ... many thanks.

Just as a reminder, this is what I started with ...

And this is the end product ...

Close up of the home made oilers and taps ...

End shot ...

Steve_S

It looks great Pete! the exhaust pipe is very neat. I think you're right about a restoration never being finished... but that's part of the fun!

Graham-Jilly

great restro job

Sandman

WOW. What a transformation.

Brilliant resto.

Well done.

IndianaRog

Pete, you have to be pleased with that...looks beautiful on all fronts.

tmuir

Much better!

You did a good job on the oil drippers for the engine.
The engine looks naked without them.

Think I might have to keep my eye out for a Bowman when I'm in the UK.

RocDoc

johnreid

I do believe that I enjoy my Bowmans a lot, great engines.

Cranko

Brilliant job mate , a real credit to ya

Wallace

Well done and a top job

Atticman

What a great job Pete, really good.

paul_c

They look great, did you put the felt pads behind the pistons for the oil to drip on to ? Sometimes these are overlooked. Well done on a very nice restoration.

Les

That is one very nice restoration. Well done.

MooseMan

Wow Pete, that's amazing work!!

RocDoc

paul_c

Hi Pete,

They go directly behind the piston and there is a retainer as well. The oil drips down onto the felt and the oil soaked felt wipes the cylinder wall and the piston is travelling right behind it. I will post some pics and all will be clear

paul_c

Felt washer, same width or a fraction wider than the cylinder bore is located behind the piston. Behind the felt is positioned an eyelit or brass washer to trap the felt. The piston unscrews to allow fitting.

More pics to come.

paul_c

Felt and retainer

a better pic

RocDoc

Hi Paul,

Many thanks for the detailed explanation and the photos. This is the first time I have actually seen all the parts and how they are attached to the piston. Very interesting stuff.

Mine doesn't have a pad nor a retaining clip. I think it might be a big task to find some replacements I could try to make some I suppose.

Time to take the pistons apart again ...

Thanks

Pete

paul_c

Hi Pete,

The eyelets you can find in the cheapy shops or a shoe repairer and you can hole punch your own felt. A materials store will have the felt or they will know who sell it. By materials I mean a fabric shop, where you buy curtain and dress making things. maybe even a craft shop. You would be surprised at who sells what now a days.

tmuir

MooseMan

A good source of thick felt is the polishing pads you can by for Dremel tools etc.

I'm not sure if the brass washer is an original feature, but it's a great idea! I think the Bowman literature mentions using knotting twine to tie on the washers.

RocDoc

Hi Odilon ... guess what I've just bought ... a new Dremmel tool. I'm sure I can find some felt pads from somewhere.

Would this be the same set up as on, say a M135, or a 140 with [optional] oilers?

Won't be able to do anything this week as I'm off down to the Big Smoke (London) for a conference, leaving very early tomorrow morning.

Cheers

Pete

MooseMan

Hi pete,

AFAIK all the engines with cylinder covers had felt pads, although they hardly ever survive, and they run perfectly well without. They are 3/8" diameter. The only engines where I've noticed the felt pads giving a significant benefit are the locos....but I'm very interested to hear how you fare.

RocDoc

Thanks mate,

Yeah, I'll be interested to see how I fare too!

I'm 280 ...not out

Pete