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Bowman day on th eWhite Cloud and Northern, need advice
THe 300 has lots of power, maybe too much
Suggestions?
I will try again soon, I had to quit as I need assistance getting to the layout and my assistance had to leave. I am restricted to llifting less than 20 pounds and the garage door takes about 40 to open and close the door, need to adjust the torsion spring.
Roly Williams
Strange. Even with wheel slip you'd expect the engine to move with no load.
Just a couple of thoughts: is something fouling your central rail - maybe the meths tank or the burner tube? The other thought: are both axles free? I think the 300 is like the 234 with only one axle powered. If the other one is stiff it could halt the engine.
Les
Have you tried putting the 234 tender behind the 300 to give it some extra weight??
Roly Williams
Les wrote:
Have you tried putting the 234 tender behind the 300 to give it some extra weight??
If the wheels are already slipping then adding more load behind is only going to make it worse.
regracing
maybe you could buy some small elastic bands and slide them over the driving wheels to provide traction
johnreid
The non driven axle spins freely and there is a good eighth of an inch between the center rail and the burner ( the lowest part of the Locomotive aside from the wheels ) I roughened the track with sandpaper, and cleaned the track with Meths and Acetone. The wheels are clean. I have been thinking of maybe putting some rubber on the wheels, but am unsure of how to make the rubber stay on. I do not want to do anything that modifies the Locomotive permanently. With the power and speed that it runs at, I am sure that once it gets enough traction to move, it wold pull the 234 and the 234s tender, the little thinkingg is a powerhouse, no doubt. I was hoping that maybe this might not be an uncommon problem and an easy solution is out there, something that I have over looked in my enthusiasm?
Maybe instead of a lubricator, it needs a sander
Roly Williams
johnreid wrote:
The non driven axle spins freely and there is a good eighth of an inch between the center rail and the burner ( the lowest part of the Locomotive aside from the wheels ) I roughened the track with sandpaper, and cleaned the track with Meths and Acetone. The wheels are clean. I have been thinking of maybe putting some rubber on the wheels, but am unsure of how to make the rubber stay on. I do not want to do anything that modifies the Locomotive permanently. With the power and speed that it runs at, I am sure that once it gets enough traction to move, it wold pull the 234 and the 234s tender, the little thinkingg is a powerhouse, no doubt. I was hoping that maybe this might not be an uncommon problem and an easy solution is out there, something that I have over looked in my enthusiasm?
Maybe instead of a lubricator, it needs a sander
You could try putting something heavy in the cab to increase the weight on the rear axle.
johnreid
I think there is a weight in the Meths tank for that purpose but I will try next time. IT is a bit frustrating not being able to go out to the layout on a whim and try things.
Roly Williams
johnreid wrote:
I think there is a weight in the Meths tank for that purpose but I will try next time. IT is a bit frustrating not being able to go out to the layout on a whim and try things.
Can't you set up a few feet of temporary track inside, just to try things on?
johnreid
All of my floors are covered. carpet or vinyl tile, I fear that a Meths mishap or even a fling of oil might lead to an expensive repair.
kusuchi
Sorry, John, I have no expertise in this area.
I'm sure, however, looking at the video, that once you get the traction issues resolved she's going to blow the doors off!
The 234 is now going like the clappers, too!
johnreid
That was with two wicks capped off too, the 234 with all of the wicks going is just a blur.
However, when i hold the tender to stop the engine it just stops, the wheels dont spin. I think the 300 has more punch than the 234.
kusuchi
johnreid wrote:
That was with two wicks capped off too, the 234 with all of the wicks going is just a blur.
However, when i hold the tender to stop the engine it just stops, the wheels dont spin. I think the 300 has more punch than the 234.
That is it's reputation!
27ace27
johnreid wrote:
That was with two wicks capped off too, the 234 with all of the wicks going is just a blur.
However, when i hold the tender to stop the engine it just stops, the wheels dont spin. I think the 300 has more punch than the 234.
hehe, but if you pitted them against each other, the 300 wouldn't go anywhere!
IndianaRog
John, is it possible the drive wheels are a bit worn and not making sufficient contact with the rails, suspended a bit from front and rear wheels??? I know nothing about how those wheels go on or come off (if they even do)...but maybe if wear is the culprit you could swap wheels around to compensate.
Another option might be very thin O rings or electricians tape stretched over the drive wheels, but likelyhood of keeping them in place seems doubtful. At least if something like that will last a circuit or two of your track it would prove if wear is the culprit.
Rog
johnreid
I will investigate further, I am sure it is something very simple. Being as there are only two axles I do not think it is possible for the driven wheels not to be making contact, I do see light between the center rail and the burner too.
Nick
John, I read the responses on the Bowman circle, and here's the lead weight in my burner:
johnreid
Mine does not have that weight, but there is a weight inside the burner tank, I can feel the weight and can hear it if I shake the burner, I might have to melt a lot of solder and make one. The burner is quite heavy though.
I do see light between the middle rail and the burner tubes but have been given quite a few emails regarding the track even with my Mamods. IF it was not for the turnouts I would just remove the center rail for appearances sake anyhow.
Today I will both replace the wicks and investigate the clearance too.
Roly Williams
johnreid wrote:
Mine does not have that weight, but there is a weight inside the burner tank, I can feel the weight and can hear it if I shake the burner, I might have to melt a lot of solder and make one. The burner is quite heavy though.
I do see light between the middle rail and the burner tubes but have been given quite a few emails regarding the track even with my Mamods. IF it was not for the turnouts I would just remove the center rail for appearances sake anyhow.
Today I will both replace the wicks and investigate the clearance too.
What you can hear rattling is not a weight. That is an automatic cut-off device which puts out the burner if the engine falls over. The lead weight should be on the top of the burner tank.
johnreid
That very well might be the problem then, The shut off device is heavy, I guess a lot of weight is needed.
I will need to make a suitable mold and make one out of solder.
Roly Williams
johnreid wrote:
That very well might be the problem then, The shut off device is heavy, I guess a lot of weight is needed.
I will need to make a suitable mold and make one out of solder.
By the looks of it, you should be able to just pour the molten lead into the top of the tank. Just be careful you don't get any down the filler hole. Solder is an expensive source of lead. If you can find a bit of old lead pipe somewhere (like a scrap dealer) that'd be cheaper. How old is your house? If it's an old one, take a look under your floorboards
johnreid
Lead is at a premium around here, Muzzle Loading Rifle Enthusiasts are abundant, I built the house in 1982, however, I have about 20 pounds of solder on hand, a case of it.
Roly Williams
johnreid wrote:
Lead is at a premium around here, Muzzle Loading Rifle Enthusiasts are abundant, I built the house in 1982, however, I have about 20 pounds of solder on hand, a case of it.
I guess that should be enough
johnreid
Well I poured melted solder on the top of the burner thinking that the top would serve as a mold, but I guess now that the internal part must have gotten heated up enough to block the Meths flow inside, so I am again scratching my head, also the solder was level with the top edge when melted but once cooled is above the fop so am using a file to make it level so the burner will fit in place. Had nothing else to be doing I guess.
I will be very happy when this is done, and I hope it remedies my problem
johnreid
WEkk, I have it where it will get fuel to the wicks but the loose piece inside the tank no longet moves, the bolts that hold the cab in place fit into the recess of the fuel tank so I needed to remove the outer corners of the lead weight where ulon it crumbled. I am going to find a Fender Washer and use it for a weight, steel might not weigh as much as lead, but there again that small amount of lead doesnt weigh that much anyhow.
I must say, I have reached my limit for frustration.
Roly Williams
I hope my sugestion to cast the weight in situ didn't cause you to bugger something up inside If it did, I'm sorry. If the cut-off gadget stopped rattling, it must have stuck in the closed position. Differential expansion may have distorted something. Oh well, I'm glad you got it working again. I must remember not to suggest that method again!
johnreid
If it did not sound like a sensible idea, I never would have done it. I just went to the hardware store and bought fender washers I put two big washers on top of the tank and will try it out this afternoon.
Fingers are crossed.
MooseMan
John, one more thing to check (my 300 does not have the lead weight, and it runs just fine) : are the front wheels fully screwed onto the axle? They do work loose over time, and I've seen my 265 suddenly grind to a halt with the rear wheels spinning because the front wheels had come loose and and were now fouling the rails...just give them a good twist, they should be screwed on as far as they'll go.
If it did, I'm sorry. If the cut-off gadget stopped rattling, it must have stuck in the closed position. Differential expansion may have distorted something. Oh well, I'm glad you got it working again. I must remember not to suggest that method again!