| Archive for The Unofficial Mamod and Other Steam Forum The Original Unofficial Toy Steam Forum Established 2006 The biggest, most popular steam forum around! Accept NO imitations! We have a growing community of regular posting members who chat about all aspects of toy and model steam. |
| Les |
Bowman M122.Bowman M122.I decided it was time my 122 had a good clean and polish. 
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| Les |
So I started stripping it down.
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| Les |
The boiler is covered in soot, so it has had quite a few firings. And everything is covered in oil, which isn't a bad thing really.
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| johnreid |
This one looks like fun, keep us posted | ||
| Les |
All the brass is filthy and will need a lot of elbow grease. 
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| Nick |
Are you going to get rid of the excess solder around the SV? | ||
| Les |
Once I have cleaned the boiler I will decide. | ||
| Mamodman123 |
Will clean up really well, always liked the 122! | ||
| Les |
More greasy, dirty parts.
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| johnreid |
When I try to do that I usually end up with a mess. I hate to sand or file excess solder off and it seems difficult to melt without making the SV or whatever need to be resoldered.
I have some Wicking that is great for electronics, just lay it on melted solder and it sucks up the most of it. |
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| Les |
The base completely stripped of everything. You can see all the soot and oil all gungy on the base. 
The base and firebox are going to be blasted and repainted, the rest will be left original for now. 
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| 8_10 Brass Cleaner |
I use one of the wifes well worn emery boards for her finger nails. Shifts solder quickly, fine enough not to scratch too much, and flexible. The fine scratches come out with a little elbow grease and polish |
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| Mamodman123 |
I heat the area up, wipe away excess with wire wool, then finish with a fine grade of wet and dry, plus some polishing. Works 80% of the time, all of the time 
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| Les |
What about the 20%? |
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| Les |
The engine frame, safety valve and whistle.
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| johnreid |
I am the 20% 
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| Les |
Sorry if it seems too drawn out, but I thought this was better than just one mass of photos. 
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| Les |
The gears, cranks and flywheel.
Once I had stripped everything, it was all washed in hot soapy water to degrease it all. Not a pleasant job.
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| Mamodman123 |
Can't wait to see this finished
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| Les |
Waiting to be washed.
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| Les |
Finally some degreased parts ready for polishing.
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| Les |
The whistle polished, next to another one for comparison. It is shinier than that, the picture doesn't do it justice and shows all the marks.
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| Les |
Some more polished parts, against some waiting to be polished showing how bad they were.
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| Les |
Last picture for tonight.
All the cylinder covers and caps, both oilers and caps and the large gear are now polished and there is a big difference already. Light at the end of the tunnel.
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| Les |
This is definitely the last picture tonight.
This shows all the parts polished so far including the exhaust pipe. Tomorrow the pistons, cranks and flywheel. Leaving the boiler to last. 
2500 |
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| Mamodman123 |
All polished up very well Les!
That whistle is nice they go missing quite often!
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| Steve_S |
Great stuff Les. I'm looking forward to seeing it done! | ||
| Les |
A lot of elbow grease, wire wool and brasso, no electric polishers here. 
I've gained a whistle from somewhere which is a bonus. And no, I am not selling it James.
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| Mamodman123 |
Do'h could do with one of them
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| johnreid |
I like it drawn out, time to look over each one and the comments add to the fun. Real good job so far. I think I am already envious of the engine, as is. | ||
| Les |
Until I took it apart, I did not realise how bad it really was, as when I steam them it doesn't matter to much as long as it runs. | ||
| Kritika |
Well done Les, I did the same to my M140 at the weekend, lucky it’s a LOT smaller...
M122 Thats my next Bowman.... It looks brilliant.
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| Les |
Thankyou, I just done my M180 at the weekend as well, just a dismantle and polish and that was a doddle compered to this. I shall pick something smaller next time.
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| Nick |
Les, that last picture was blinding! Great progress so far. 
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| Les |
Thankyou, need to go out today to get some more brasso. |
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| Atticman |
Thats coming on well Les, have you got any other Bowman whistles? 
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| Les |
That would be telling, but I do have three funnels.
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| Les |
Done some more polishing, have got both piston cylinders, chimney base, both cranks, the small gear and the larger pulley all finished.
Will post pictures later.
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| Nick |
How many hours of polishing do you have tied up?
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| Les |
Probably about 3hrs, and I still have the small pulley and the flywheel to do which will take about 20 minutes. This then just leaves one item to polish.
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| Nick |
Boiler? | ||
| Les |
Yes the boiler.
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| Nick |
Get polishing then!
I want to see how it turns out. 
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| Les |
Still at work.
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| Nick |
You should have brought it with you.
I wish I could be on here when I work.
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| erikl |
You're doing a great job les! Can't wait to see the ned results!
The m122 has so much parts compared to a mamod, I can still remember all the polishing I had to do on mine, and that was not as dirty as yours. |
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| Les |
One piston cylinder, pulley and the chimney base.
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| Les |
More polished parts. Both piston cylinders, both cranks and the small gear which still needs some work, but it's a fiddley little piece.
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| Les |
The last two small parts, the small pulley and the flywheel. Just a few washers and the boiler left to polish.
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| Mamodman123 |
Looking great so far Les
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| Les |
Thankyou. The boiler and washers will have to wait until tomorrow as I have run out of brasso. The firebox and base will be bead blasted on Friday, so I will be able to start painting on Saturday. |
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| johnreid |
Quick, get the man some Brasso | ||
| Nick |
You aren't wasting any time on getting this one done. 
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| Les |
Unfortunately is nearly time for me to go to bed. 
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| Les |
The longer I take, the more chance of me getting fed up with it.
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| johnreid |
Is it done yet? | ||
| Les |
Thats what I keep asking myself. Must admit I am not looking forward to polishing the boiler. 
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| johnreid |
While you polish that Boiler, play this YouTube song and the chore will be much more pleasant!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=odcJ-vS22rI |
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| Les |
I have got some more Brasso, polishing has resumed, but it will take a while.
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| johnreid |
Are you listening to the song? | ||
| Les |
Youtube's filtered.
I lead such a sheltered life.
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| johnreid |
It doesnt work
Oh well it was worth a try, Mr Sandman by the Chordettes |
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| kusuchi |
Great thread, Les
Can't wait to see it finished.
( Nor you, I suspect)
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| Les |
I will be glad when the polishing is done. I am having to use wire wool and Brasso and my hands are beginning to get very sore.
Still only the boiler left, but I have already made a start on it.
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| kusuchi |
Don't envy you that job
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| Les |
I keep telling myself that it will be worth it in the end.
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| Minor1PJG |
Well worth. It it is really coming along well
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| Les |
Making slow progress on the boiler.
This is what it looked like to start with.
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| Les |
And this is it so far, about an hours work and it's still not finished.
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| Les |
And the two endcaps are done.
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| IndianaRog |
Les, you are doing some yeomans work there on that boiler (well, the whole dang thing). I think early on you noted some reluctance to touch the excess solder on one of the boiler fittings.
I personally could not go to all that effort and then NOT dress that solder excess up at least a little. Dremel soft sanding disks (flexible) would allow fingertip abrasion...not too much, but allow you to feather in the edges and make it look a lot better without total removal. I would not hit it with a torch, but careful abrasion could do wonders if taken slowly. Just my nitpicker side coming out!! |
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| Les |
I am filling as I go, and when I can see the wood for the trees, I will be sorting out the excess.
The cleaner the boiler gets, the more irritated I am becoming with the solder, and it will be filling only, no heat. |
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| kusuchi |
Les,
You have the patience of a saint. I recommend boat building!
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| Mamodman123 |
I'd go with what Rog said, but I would clamp the thread in place, heat and wipe the solder away with some wire wool.
I'm going to do the same on the new Bowman I bought, worked really well on this one: 
And it was actually steam tight in the end 
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| IndianaRog |
MM...you do some nice work with solder and brass.
My fear with boiler bushings and a torch is that the bushing will heat so much it will drop inside the boiler...did it to my Wilesco Old Smoky and then had bigger job to remove end cap. At the end of the day, it is easier to make boiler repairs by removing end caps than trying to work around them...unless they were soldered in with silver solder...then BIG risk of burning holes in brass trying to get them hot enough to melt the silver solder. |
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| Mamodman123 |
It's easier around end caps I will admit, at least with the Bowman collars they won't fall into the boiler, but resoldering the steam dome can be tricky to get neat. I would certainly try your method around that part. If it's silver soldered I don't touch it, I don't attempt end cap removal. Thankfully not many Mamod were silver soldered. Weaker, but makes our lives a lot easier
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| Les |
Nice work on your boiler.
Mine is soft soldered, and I could heat it up, but the chances of something going wrong is un-acceptable, so I will go the slow, safe way. |
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| Sandman |
I agree.
MM is an expert with boiler ends and a repair is no problem to him. I, however would go the safe route. 
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| Les |
More polishing, nearly there.
This is from yesterday.
And today. 
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| Les |
And again from yesterday.
And today. 
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| Les |
More boiler pictures, all I have left to do is the steam pipe and tap so there will not be anymore boiler polishing pictures after this. You might notice it is still marked, but what I do, these will not come out.
If it was a new boiler I would be annoyed, but as it's old I look at it as part of its character. 
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| johnreid |
Some things that are old look better if allowed to look old. It is not a brand new engine and that fact is part of what makes it special.
Good work so far, I cant wait to see it going back together. |
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| Les |
After polishing I have to sort out these two offending areas.
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| IndianaRog |
Les, seeing those excess solder areas up close and reading what MM said about such bushings having a flange and NOT likely to drop within when heated...I would in fact try to reduce the solder using a torch.
1) clean the solder and surrounding area repeatedly with a good solvent (meths at least)...to remove polish residue 2) flux the area well 3) have wire wool (steel wool) handy 4) gently warm the solder until it begins to puddle 5) quickly wipe away excess with the wire wool in a circular motion to minimize spreading the solder further over the brass 6) repeat until satisfied (or afraid to go further)... I think the key is to gingerly apply heat just to point of liquifying the solder than take the heat away and wipe quickly with the wool. If you have a pair of thin old leather gloves it might keep your fingertips from getting burned. I'm watching your effort carefully as I have an identical 122 that needs an overhaul...I have had it two years and never fired it...always that "next day" project
cheers, Rog |
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| Les |
Thanks for your advice, if I go the heat way it will not be until tomorrow.
It has been hard but satisfying work but I am looking forwards to re-assembling and running it. As for your 122, I am afraid your are on your own to do that, one is enough.
And I have just realised that maybe this should have been in the Restoration thread.
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| kusuchi |
Funny how that happens. I ran the Fairground thread in 'Wanted' for 12 pages! It was only when I posted the video I realized I was in the wrong place.
Really good looking restoration, however. Can't wait to see it back together. Before and after shots woud be good.
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| Mamodman123 |
Heat and wire wool is the key to success!
Just before the final polish i use some wet and dry soaked in brasso, speeds the process up a bit
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| Les |
Got the firebox stripped ready for painting.
Couple of dents and creases to be sorted out first and then I can spray it. 
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| Nick |
Did you step on it.
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| Les |
It was already like that, it looks as if the burner has been pushed into it. With a couple of bits of wood, it should straighten out quite easily.
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| johnreid |
So far so good, I am anxious to see more. | ||
| Les |
Here is some more for you then John.
The base is also ready for painting. Top. 
Underneath . 
This is it before stripping.
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| Les |
The underneath of the base has quite a lot of pitting.
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| Sandman |
I'd have given these areas a light scraping of fine filler and sanded before priming.
I've done it with great success on a few occasions. |
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| johnreid |
Do you plan on treating that rust?
I need Bowman fixes as I have to wait for the Postman to take his merry time
I seriously doubt that there are too many Bowmans in the US. |
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| Les |
The base hasn't been primed yet, it's just the lighting and the camera giving that effect.
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| Sandman |
Then I'd certainly fill before priming.
Make sure you press the filler well into the pitted area and leave slightly proud before hardening and sanding down. It'll come up like new. |
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| kusuchi |
Coming along great, Les. Certainly learning a lot fom this thread, though I'm not sure when I'll use it. I can see I should have filled the canopy of my TE1A after ospho and sanding. The minor pitting reappeared after spraying.
Looking forward to more pictures
You should step on Nick when you next see him. I'll sand out the marks.
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| johnreid |
The metal in that picture looked just like gray primer! I am quite interested. What are you using for filler?
What does the Sandman recommend? Interested if they are or are not the same, I am learning something here so forgive me if my questions seem a bit odd. |
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| IndianaRog |
A quality US auto body spot filler sold in tubes like toothpaste is made by Bondo and named "Glazing & Spot Putty". I buy mine at auto parts stores.
Sold in 4.5 oz tubes and comes out rust brown looking. It is perfect for at least non-heated surfaces with pits that will be painted. It is smeared on with a putty knife and is sandable in 5 minutes. I have used it successfully on pitted metal bases to make them mirror smooth, though never tried it on fireboxes exposed to flame. I'm thinking there is some plastic in it and hence may not be usable on flamed fireboxes. Rog |