Mamodman123
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Bowman M140I bought this Bowman about a year ago now. My plans are to restore it fully eventually. Anyway, it's been so long in my hands i've not really shown it (it's a bit of a dog) but it had a few problems i'll explain and hopefully you bo-maniacs can help.
When I bought the engine the crankshaft axel was missing I tried wiping with an oily rag... no luck  . It did have the brass crank... well I couldn't get a replacement part. It should have a crank like this:
(my 158)
So i thought what can I do...... then inspiration struck   two pence coins  they were a pretty close size. Soldered them together, drilled a hole centre and soldered to the crankshaft. Then drilled and soldered on a small pin, bit of filing and sanding (sorry Queenie) and it worked.
Seen on the right  . I've run the engine and it seems very well balanced and runs fast and smooth. Need to find my battery charger then i'll grab a video.
The firebox burner strap is gone, any suggestions for a fix up?  base is a replacement but apart from that it's great  . Will tart it up and respray firebox/base etc and get it screwed down to the board properly . When it runs the burner shakes about too much so I got to pin it down properly but you get the idea.
Cheers
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Wallace
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Great that you got it work MM.
Box and all too.
Look forward to the finished result. Look forward to the video too mate
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Atticman
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Great improvisation MM the 2ps just need some gold leaf on them now
Re firebox boiler strap- cant understand who nibbles these away, spose they fall off with metal fatigue after a while.
Any pics of that end
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Sandman
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Great job with the crank MM.
I've repaired a broken burner clip simply by making an L shaped piece of metal plate to the right size.
Then I put one end inside the firebox and secured it with a small screw, with the screw head pointing out. (A smear of araldite between the inside faces wouldn't go amiss)
I then filed the head down till there was only enough metal left to hold it safely.
Once the firebox was repainted , the repair was almost invisible.
Just an idea, if you didn't want to solder it mate.
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Andy
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well done mm
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bessytractor
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now that is sly
well done!
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MTA
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Improvisation at its best Plus you have now added 8p onto the value of the engine
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tmuir
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Nice job MM but isn't defacing the queens image still a hangable offence?
To be honest thats about all 1 and 2p are good for.
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mj
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Are you really going to repaint
Get stuck into the of quality street early this xmas & cut a strip from the empty tin for the boiler strap. Bringing a bowman back to life is very satisfying, especially twin cylinder
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MooseMan
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Cracking job mate!
Any thin metal, painted black, will do for a boiler strap.
My Jensen 25 suffered a badly cracked cylinder endcap - I used a 5p piece, ground flat and cut to size to fix that!
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toxx
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... pretty darn cool, soldering 2x tuppence together! I'm looking forward to the video of her in action (the Bowman, not the Queen. I really like her, though. The Queen, I mean. She lets me call her Liz I'm allowed to that kind of joke, being partially Irish )
Great job, mate!
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SillyBilly
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Clever stuff!
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Lewis
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how many bowmans do you have now mm ?
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Mamodman123
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Cheers people!
I'm thinking wooden base for this one That base isn't right as you can probably tell
If it is a hangable offence then my time has come  and Mooseys by the sound of it
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MooseMan
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Wooden base should look great.....don't know if there ever was an E140, but don't let that stop you.
Is that a 135 base it's sitting on now?
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Mamodman123
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| MooseMan wrote: | Wooden base should look great.....don't know if there ever was an E140, but don't let that stop you.
Is that a 135 base it's sitting on now? |
Yep someone got happy with a drill on it too
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Steve_S
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You've done a great job there MM, very ingenious! I have a suggestion for the base. A proper M140 base plate is square and has thirteen Meccano holes along each side. Your 135 base plate is rectangular and has 13 holes by 17. You could easily cut this down to the right size (one cut!) and drill some new holes along the new edge. A piece of Meccano would be a good template for getting the half-inch hole spacing right. Just a minute... what am I talking about... you could use the piece that you cut off as a template!  The extra holes that somebody has drilled in the past could be filled in. I've done that using some stuff called Milliput from a model shop, and when its been rubbed down with emery paper, then painted, the repair is invisible.
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James
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Looks great MM!
Well done with the crank!
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IndianaRog
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MM...super job getting that Bowman fixed up. I should think the Queen would be proud to literally be a part of restoring a bit of British history. I have cut up crisp new dollar bills to use as gasketing material, but use of a coin is a tool I have not tried...yet!
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Mamodman123
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| Steve_S wrote: | | You've done a great job there MM, very ingenious! I have a suggestion for the base. A proper M140 base plate is square and has thirteen Meccano holes along each side. Your 135 base plate is rectangular and has 13 holes by 17. You could easily cut this down to the right size (one cut!) and drill some new holes along the new edge. A piece of Meccano would be a good template for getting the half-inch hole spacing right. Just a minute... what am I talking about... you could use the piece that you cut off as a template! The extra holes that somebody has drilled in the past could be filled in. I've done that using some stuff called Milliput from a model shop, and when its been rubbed down with emery paper, then painted, the repair is invisible. |
What would i cut the base with Steve?
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Griffin
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Nice one MM, I too like your ingenious approach to the crank replacement
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Atticman
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| Mamodman123 wrote: | | Steve_S wrote: | | You've done a great job there MM, very ingenious! I have a suggestion for the base. A proper M140 base plate is square and has thirteen Meccano holes along each side. Your 135 base plate is rectangular and has 13 holes by 17. You could easily cut this down to the right size (one cut!) and drill some new holes along the new edge. A piece of Meccano would be a good template for getting the half-inch hole spacing right. Just a minute... what am I talking about... you could use the piece that you cut off as a template! The extra holes that somebody has drilled in the past could be filled in. I've done that using some stuff called Milliput from a model shop, and when its been rubbed down with emery paper, then painted, the repair is invisible. |
What would i cut the base with Steve? |
Being a cheapskate I would get a pice of steel the right size and drill the holes as Steve suggested using the 135 base as a template then i would sell the 135 base on ebay -someone may need it, well maybe
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Steve_S
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| Mamodman123 wrote: | | What would i cut the base with Steve? |
A hacksaw. Cut it a bit oversize then file it down to finish it off. You could position the cut off piece on top of the base and align the holes, then draw around it with a pencil or sharp scriber to give you a line to work to.
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Mamodman123
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I decided to make a little display for STIA for it
The wood came from and old stool we had stored in the loft, so I grabbed it and stuck the 140 to it
I'm going to try and get some tools on it, or a MM1 or something
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Steve_S
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Looks good MM... certainly unique!
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Mamodman123
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Cheers Steve!
It may not be a perminant thing, but for now it will do nicely, it didn't cost me anything so I don't lose and it makes a nice display
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Steve_S
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Yep, good idea, and you can run it as often as you like.
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Sandman
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Great idea MM.
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Steve_S
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Just don't sit on it!
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Wallace
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Nice one MM.
Will make for a good display 
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Manxman
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That should be fun. Enjoy yourself MM.
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Nick
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How about a video of this display?
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Mamodman123
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Cheers guys
I'll be running it throughout the day and Sandy will hopefully catch it on his cam
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Mamodman123
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All finished now
Got a hammer and a polisher on there now with a lineshaft IT does have a burner but I need to find some way of stopping it from moving about when the engine is running....any ideas?
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johnreid
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Real nice display, I really like it.
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Mamodman123
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| johnreid wrote: | | Real nice display, I really like it. |
Cheers John, does what it says on the tin, its not too busy with a million tools, 2 engines and lineshafts all over the place either
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Nick
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Wow, turned out very nice.
What does the burner look like?
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Mamodman123
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| ncseverson wrote: | Wow, turned out very nice.
What does the burner look like? |
Round tin with a long tube as a wick, not got a picture to hand, has anyone else?
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Nick
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Maybe something round like a tin soup can painted up and screwed to the base. Cut a slot for it to extend out and it shouldn't go anywhere. Maybe someone else could improve on this idea?
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Mister Occlusion
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Embed a powerful magnet in the underside of the board under the fuel tank? Those burners are magnetic, aren't they?
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MooseMan
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Mark beat me to it....in my boats I use magnets to keep the burners in place. Doesn't need to be all that powerful, I cut bits out of one of those magnetic sheets that are used for fridge calenders etc.
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johnreid
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I have the idea in the back of my mind to make a Diorama some day and have a ceiling mounted line shaft and then the workshop tools all mounted beneath, like an 1800s sweatshop. There was an older one posted somewhere on the forum last fall.
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Nick
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My vote goes for the magnets, much cleaner looking.
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Steve_S
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It looks great MM, and it'll draw the crowds at STIA! As a temporary measure you could use double side sticky tape under the burner.
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Wallace
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Looks good mate
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Les Marsh
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| Steve_S wrote: | | It looks great MM, and it'll draw the crowds at STIA! As a temporary measure you could use double side sticky tape under the burner. |
As the burner gets hot, wouldn't it come unstuck?
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Mamodman123
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| Les Marsh wrote: | | Steve_S wrote: | | It looks great MM, and it'll draw the crowds at STIA! As a temporary measure you could use double side sticky tape under the burner. |
As the burner gets hot, wouldn't it come unstuck? |
Not sure how hot bowman burners get?
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Les Marsh
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| Mamodman123 wrote: | | Les Marsh wrote: | | Steve_S wrote: | | It looks great MM, and it'll draw the crowds at STIA! As a temporary measure you could use double side sticky tape under the burner. |
As the burner gets hot, wouldn't it come unstuck? |
Not sure how hot bowman burners get? |
Quite hot, but also wouldn't you have have to unstick it every time you refilled and re-lit the burner?
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Mamodman123
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| Les Marsh wrote: | | Mamodman123 wrote: | | Les Marsh wrote: | | Steve_S wrote: | | It looks great MM, and it'll draw the crowds at STIA! As a temporary measure you could use double side sticky tape under the burner. |
As the burner gets hot, wouldn't it come unstuck? |
Not sure how hot bowman burners get? |
Quite hot, but also wouldn't you have have to unstick it every time you refilled and re-lit the burner? |
Maybe, unless i filled it where it was
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CCairns
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I like the idea of using a 'fridge' type magnet. Must remember that one for some of my engines.
Mamodman123 That's a very nice looking display you've made. If I do not get to STIA this year then look forward to seeing it on the Forum DVD in due course. Are you going to protect the varnish on the base inside the firebox or just let it get burnt?
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Mamodman123
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| CCairns wrote: | I like the idea of using a 'fridge' type magnet. Must remember that one for some of my engines.
Mamodman123 That's a very nice looking display you've made. If I do not get to STIA this year then look forward to seeing it on the Forum DVD in due course. Are you going to protect the varnish on the base inside the firebox or just let it get burnt? |
Yep I think I'll try a magnet first it should work ok. Not sure how the varnish will stand up it might be ok as the Wick tube doesn't actually touch the base, the only place I think it might burn is where the firebox touches the base
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Wallace
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Mate, what you could try is getting the right size metal washer and bend it to replicate the feeder tube holder on the base of a mamod.
You know the semi circle cutout bit?
Then to help hold the tank, use 2 smaller washers, cut a slit in the base and glue them into the slit.
Again, like the little bent tabs on a mamod base
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