Bowmans M135 Restoration.

flywheel61 · Bowmans M135 Restoration.

At long last i've partially restored my Bowmans M135.

This is how I got it,

And now this is how it looks,

I've got to say that I love the old gears and heavy flywheels on the prewar engines, pity they ever changed them as it makes the engine far more interesting, and is nearly essential to run some of the older accessories like the windmill that is on its way from the US.

The large pulley above the crank shaft is a repro and I still have to get an oiler tap and a front cover on the piston assembly cover made for it.

The big problem is whether I repaint the base or not on this engine. All of the remainder of the paintwork, including the firebox is in much better shape.

Suggestions please.

Cheers

Chris

Stitch

Chris, you have been busy

That's come up really nice. Like you, I love the gears and heavy flywheels.

It's a tough one re the repaint. Is it still flaking?

Cranko

Very nice , i think i would leave it how it is

Wallace

That looks great Chris. Well done. I forgot you had a Bowman.

I agree with Shaun, tough one re the base.

I'd probably leave it as is for now. I've seen much worst, and looks rust free.

Nice job

tmuir

Nice on Chris.
If you haven't got a source for the Bowman end caps I'm pretty sure Mamod Fan sells them on his website.

CCairns

Very nice job Chris and I hope mine comes out as well ( http://modelsteam.myfreeforum.org/about6823.html ).

Unfortunately I've got no further trying to get the upper shaft with geared wheel yet. It is interesting to see that you've added a second pulley to this shaft, which raises a question: -

What is the Bowman factory standard for what is fitted on the upper drivshaft as several photos of forum members M135s show a variety of gears and pulleys? A page from the Bowman catalogue on Mooseman's website ( http://www.freewebs.com/odilon/bowmansteamengines.htm ) does not show a pulley on the front of this shaft as you have fitted, and the text says 'Two-Speed Gear and two brass pulleys. Low Gear spindle will take Meccano pulleys, chain sprockets, etc.'

So are these extra pulleys just fitted by owners or were they introduced by Bowman at a later date?

I obtained one of the cylinder end caps from Mamodfan and can confirm that they are a perfect match and fit very well.

Chris Cairns.

flywheel61

Chris, thanks for that, I actually added the extra pulley above the crank myself, as I wasn't sure if it came with or not. From the brochure on Moose's post it looks like it is supposed to be without it. The reason I added it was to stop the big gear wheel wobbling around and moving on the small worm gear that's on the bottom shaft.

Thanks for the reminder about the piston assembly cover end cap. I wonder if he also makes the small oiler tap as it seems to be missing off a lot of the Bowmans engines.

Cheers

Chris

mj

A fine bowman chris, personally i'd leave the baseplate in its original paintwork. Unecessary painting wipes all the heritage from an engine

Chris C here my 135 countershaft (badly repainted

)

& the other 135 during it's cleanup, with 3 pulleys

flywheel61

Ah, now I look at the gear/pulley assembly I see that I've put the big gear wheel and the small pinoin gear on the wrong side of the solid flywheel,

. Will fix that in the morning,

Cheers

Chris

CCairns

flywheel 61 - Thanks for that information Chris regarding your pulleys, and I can now see the logic in balancing the upper shaft with 2 pulleys. I knew I'd read about Bowman Oiler taps before on the forum and here is Steve_S's guide on making them - http://modelsteam.myfreeforum.org/about2546.html&highlight=bowman , and reading elsewhere I see that James got one made by Sandman. I do not know if you have felt pads fitted to the piston, but apparently these are required if using the oiler properly, here is some information that Mooseman provided me with from Owen Robert's book: -

"All engines fitted with piston covers have an oiling felt behind the piston. replacements can be made by using thick felt or a similar material and punching out circles with a 3/8" hollow punch. A second punch of 3/16" can be used to cut a concentric circle in the centre. This provides the felt washer, several of these are needed for each piston.
The piston can be unscrewed from the piston rod and the washers threaded on. The washer nearer the crankpin end must be tied down with button twine to prevent the washers moving"

I've just got a set of punches but have not had time to locate some felt and try this method yet.

mj - Thanks Mike for sharing those photos of your M135s with me. So I just need to get a shaft, the toothed gear wheel and a couple of pulleys to complete my M135.

Chris Cairns.

Steve_S

A very nice job Chris, it looks really good now. I think I'd leave the base as it is as most of the paint is still there, and you could apply a bit of car polish to it. The oiler taps are quite easy to make, and its very rewarding when it works! Many Bowmans have extra Meccano pulleys that have been added over the years. For anyone who has a Bowman with a missing pulley, the Meccano pulley is a very good match for the original, and they're easily obtainable and quite cheap on eBay. I bought three complete with grub screws for about £4, and I've used them on my M158 and E135.

johnreid

That sure is a nice one, good job.

MooseMan

That's lovely, that base doesn't look too bad either - you'd be sacrificing the decal if you repainted it, that would be a pity.

Obe of the nice things about hese engines (this goes for most of the Bowmans) is that they are Meccano-compatible, so you can fit your gears, sprockets, worm-drives, whatever tickles your fancy. My Wormar drives its workshop with a Meccano chain drive - looks and sounds fantastic, and gets rid of the jerkiness you get with a low-speed spring drive.

steamyjim

Lovely engine!

Id leave it as it is

Mamodman123

Super job Chris!

I'd leave as is myself