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freightliner009

Can Anyone Help Me Out?

I don't like asking but could anyone help me out at all, I'd be ever so grateful?

I am looking for a small piece of brass 60mm long by 15mm wide and about 1mm thick. I need to raise the crankshaft bracket up a touch on my TE to stop my 'big boy' flywheel catching the rear wheel tyre treads. I'd need the two holes drilled to match where the rivets go as I don't have the tools to do anything like this. I'm just about to purchase a rivet gun but need to know what size/type rivets to get.
I am quite happy to pay for this if anyone could do this for me.

Many thanks,

Andy.
davidmm

Hi,
I had the same thing to do when I fitted tyres on the wheels.
My solution, not original, was to place the washers that come with the pop rivets under the frame which raised it enough to clear the tread. They are hidden and there is no sign that they are in place
Roly Williams

I would agree, washers would be a better bet. Sometimes the rivets come with washers, sometimes not. If not then they are easily available from any hardware store. The rivets you need are 1/8" or 3mm diameter. The originals I think are about 1/4" long but with the extra thickness of the washers, I'd get something like 3/8" (10mm).
freightliner009

Not ever doing this or using rivets before, I had a look most are 3.2mm x 8mm is this ok? A few other things....

1. I assume they are open top as they have the hole in the middle?

2. What is and are they 'blind' rivets?

3. Standard flange?

4. Hollow stem?

5. Washers for rivets seem to be separate so I guess it's the 3.2 sized hole?

6. What material do they need to be made of for this area?

7. I found these on EBay 310396639920 are these any good?

8. Are these washers ok or should the be stainless as these will rust I guess ? 360619651414

Sorry for all the questions, never used rivets before  
Roly Williams

freightliner009 wrote:
...
7. I found these on EBay 310396639920 are these any good?

8. Are these washers ok or should the be stainless as these will rust I guess ? 360619651414
...

They look right. I would go for the 10mm length. The washers are also correct size and should be ok being zinc plated. Stainless or brass would be better but the zinc ones will probably last as long as the chrome plating on the firebox  
freightliner009

Roly, reading your comment on the chrome cowling, some of the Mamod models have stainless steel versions. I gave my  shelf queen TE her first steaming last night just to check everything was in order, wish I hadn't bothered now as the chrome cowling on her has got some sort of staining on it now that I can't get off. I guess it's easy to change but I was toying with painting it, will I have to use heat/fire resistant paint on it because of the burner underneath it?
belugawhaleman

freightliner009 wrote:
Roly, reading your comment on the chrome cowling, some of the Mamod models have stainless steel versions. I gave my  shelf queen TE her first steaming last night just to check everything was in order, wish I hadn't bothered now as the chrome cowling on her has got some sort of staining on it now that I can't get off. I guess it's easy to change but I was toying with painting it, will I have to use heat/fire resistant paint on it because of the burner underneath it?



The staining polishes off with Brasso or a similar polish.


Paul
freightliner009

Is this rivet gun ok, it's a Draper 121137466247
75BREDHILL

Can't access it but as an educated guess I'd say yes, but I'd also consider purchasing a few tool makers claps to hold the work but if your using washers a few m3 bolts with additional washers for more urgace area may work best
Roly Williams

freightliner009 wrote:
Is this rivet gun ok, it's a Draper 121137466247

Yes, that should be fine.

If you're going to paint the firebox then you need VHT (Very High Temperature) paint, preferaby the version intended for brake calipers. Follow the instructions on the tin, which should tell you to cure it in an oven after it has dried.
freightliner009

The staining polishes off with Brasso or a similar polish.

Tried that Paul, it didn't work, I have no idea what caused it, oil maybe? It wasn't there before the firing.


Paul[/quote]
belugawhaleman

freightliner009 wrote:
The staining polishes off with Brasso or a similar polish.

Tried that Paul, it didn't work, I have no idea what caused it, oil maybe? It wasn't there before the firing.


Paul
[/quote]


I just ran my TE1a today (made a video) and afterwards I had similar
stains. I think it was from the steam oil being baked on. I first cleaned
the areas with windex and some came off. I then used a polish called
"magic wadding". Its a kind of polish impregnated cotton wool. I then
attacked the more stubborn stains with Noxon polish. this polish is a
bit more abrasive than brasso. It did the trick. Try a more aggressive
polish and it will come off.

Paul
75BREDHILL

freightliner009 wrote:
The staining polishes off with Brasso or a similar polish.

Tried that Paul, it didn't work, I have no idea what caused it, oil maybe? It wasn't there before the firing.


Paul
[/quote]

Probably the crap materials that mamod use nowadays all I can say is that there a video on YouTube about the 2002 sp5 showing how badly made it was compared to the70s version.

I'm with roly on the VHT paint on the fire box cowl.
freightliner009

75BREDHILL wrote:
Can't access it but as an educated guess I'd say yes, but I'd also consider purchasing a few tool makers claps to hold the work but if your using washers a few m3 bolts with additional washers for more urgace area may work best


Alex,

Do you mean use M3 bolts instead of rivets?
75BREDHILL

Nope, use them to hold the work in place as the 3 strikes of the rivet gun holds the wok like a weld so you can't shift the wok about and it all lines up.
Roly Williams

75BREDHILL wrote:
Nope, use them to hold the work in place as the 3 strikes of the rivet gun holds the wok like a weld so you can't shift the wok about and it all lines up.

I think you might be confusing freightliner; you're certainly confusing me . There are only two holes and they will be full of rivets. Where are you suggesting the bolts should go?
Alex-G

Great engine, I will be following this closely
WeedenSteam

75BREDHILL wrote:
Nope, use them to hold the work in place as the 3 strikes of the rivet gun holds the wok like a weld so you can't shift the wok about and it all lines up.


Put a rivet in each of the holes before you set the rivets and everything will be lined up.
75BREDHILL

Roly Williams wrote:

I think you might be confusing freightliner; you're certainly confusing me . There are only two holes and they will be full of rivets. Where are you suggesting the bolts should go?



Sorry for confusion it was the middle of the night and I had been on the beer for a few hours, I forgot to ask will the rivets be drooled out an the engine frame raised with washers then use the m3 bolts to line up the frame and the fire box.

Also I was probably going off topic with the three strikes with a rivet gun
freightliner009

One thought before I undertake this procedure, will there be enough 'play/flexure to lift the bracket enough to get the washers underneath because of the soldered pipe from the top of the boiler to the frame where the piston is attached?
Roly Williams

freightliner009 wrote:
One thought before I undertake this procedure, will there be enough 'play/flexure to lift the bracket enough to get the washers underneath because of the soldered pipe from the top of the boiler to the frame where the piston is attached?

That should be no problem if you're reasonably careful. Lift the bracket just enough to insert the washers and no more.
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