johnreid
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Gauge, an interesting observation, questionI commented elsewhere that my New Mamod Loco did not seem to sit down into the track properly, causing binding and frequent derailments. So the next step is to take some measurements.
I am using Lionel O gauge track, I measured several places on the layout and each and every measurement of the rails showed a spacing of 31.96 mm, close to 32 mm right?
Next I measured the SL3 at the point where flange is the deepest, front 30.86mm rear 30.88mm. The Loco sits well on the track, doesnt seem to bind in the curves and travels over the turnouts fairly well, there is a bit of a bump on the 027 turnouts. .02 difference is pretty darned close for a toy I think.
Then I measured the New Mamod Loco, front 31.14mm rear 31.98mm! Do we see a potential problem here? Well not potential but actual problem. So, I am going to need to remove the wheel set from the Loco and press the wheels further on the axles, Then I get into the worrying mode, is the axle the same diameter the whole length ( it was on the older rolling stock ) or has it been turned to space the wheels apart ? If the former, I can press them in a bit, if the later I would destroy them. Now I have to decide, do I risk it or do I try and find out before acting?
IF I can press them together, should I make it the same as the SL3?
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bessytractor
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with the wheels as they are the loco will have issues with pointwork. This department of loco engineering (that being wheels spacing) is called back to backs. It is commonly (and incorrectly) mistaken for the wheelbase.
The best you can do is try and even up the wheels, but make sure you don't disturb the quartering! I would say quite confidently that if the SL3 gets away with it then yes get the new one the same or close enough.
The wheels on my 7 1/4" tram are a little bit mis-spaced (according to the 7 1/4" gauge society standards), the result being it crunches through pointwork like a goodun
see what I mean in this video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vu0-Xw8vo4w&feature=channel_page
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johnreid
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My, that is a nice tram, something to be proud of
I have emailed Mamod asking about the axle thickness, thought it would be wise to ask first. It could be that I need to take the axles to a machine shop. I do not think it would be worth the Postage for a round trip across the Atlantic, much easier to tackle it here.
I think that this is why it stalls and os so hard starting on track, it works fine on bliocks.
And yes Wheelbase as opposed to wheel spacing, my wrong.
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bessytractor
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| johnreid wrote: | My, that is a nice tram, something to be proud of
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it will be when I've put it back together!
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Roly Williams
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If I were you, I'd ask Mamod to send you a new wheel set under warranty. They're not likely to insist that you return the faulty set. Explain to them what you've found and tell them you are capable of replacing them yourelf. There is always an element of risk in pressing the wheels in youself. Once you've got a new replacement you can try the pressing and, if it works, you've got yourself a spare.
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johnreid
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I have emailed them, lets wait and see what happens next. This hpwever is what has been the problem I am sure. It runs on blocks like a dream, but acts iip on the rails.
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Roly Williams
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I'm sure you're right. You've got effectively zero clearance on that axle. I'm not surprised you have problems.
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tmuir
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Yep definate problem especially on the curves.
Hope they just send you a new set.
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Les
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If you need to you can have them sent to me as this was their original delivery address and I will forward them on to you.
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johnreid
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I am looking at the axle and the center of the wheel and think that it is teh same clear across. I will wait and see what they say first then decide what to do.
At least the SL3 is really taking shape. The wick burner is a must have for those as I can see now. The smaller vaporizing burner will still come in handy, I am going to try it with my smaller Jensens.
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johnreid
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Quite a quick response, I believe I should have a new set of wheels coming. I think they should have a template or something to space them properly. Others are anxious to get one in 45mm, I guess this one was a start in that direction
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Ah Clem
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John,
Gauge on the wheelset should be measured at the intersection of the flange and the tread of the wheel.
I can measure some of my O gauge equipment, which passes through Lionel switches with no problem.
Flange profile and depth can be an issue as well.
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johnreid
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I am going to do this, first I will do nothing except run on blocks till the new wheels arrive, then I will measure them ( I bet they check them this time before posting them ) I will then remove the current set and either gauge them to match the SL3 or the newer wheelset and then put them in the spares box.
I know that some hassle was incurred by Mamod concerning my Loco, I am sure that due to the circumstances they rushed mine out and possible in the rush to satisfy a customer they might have missed checking a measurement and thus allowed this to happen. They are going above board to help me and I am positive that the new wheels will be perfect
For some reason I have not had the best of luck with several purchases that I have made recently, but in each instance the British sellers have bent over backwards to make things right. I do not normally get that good a service from places that I have bought from in the past. So I can state with confidence that they are good people to deal with, Thumbs up on Mamod.
My SL3 was unfired when I bought it and to be honest was not finished near as nicely as the new Mamod Loco, I honestly feel that they are trying to deliver a quality product and deserve the loyalty that have shown that they strive for
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tmuir
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Glad it is all getting sorted out quickly John.
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johnreid
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I now need to send them the original wheelset first. I removed it and do see a shoulder where the axle is thicker, however there is a gap between the wheel and the shoulder. I am now thinking that the eheel was not pressed all the way in.
I even see splines on the axle where the wheel should be, no way a wheel could slip on the axle. A good design.
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johnreid
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Just for informations sake, this is how it looks once the bearing is moved aside
I just think that the wheel was not pressed all the way in.
Now it looks like a few weeks without the use of a Loco.
Tempted to go ahead and fix it, but if I mess up there would be no warranty and a longer wait for wheels.
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johnreid
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Just calculated postage to the UK in order to return the original set, over $28! I think I will press them and if I break them it would cost me less to buy a new set. Not cost effective for Mamod or myself to swap wheels.
Edited to add, it only took a minute and they are pressed in place to the same dimension as on the SL3. I am off to reassemble the Loco.
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Roly Williams
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| johnreid wrote: | Just calculated postage to the UK in order to return the original set, over $28! I think I will press them and if I break them it would cost me less to buy a new set. Not cost effective for Mamod or myself to swap wheels.
Edited to add, it only took a minute and they are pressed in place to the same dimension as on the SL3. I am off to reassemble the Loco. |
That's good. It sometimes pays to take a gamble
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johnreid
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True, I have been stressed anyhow and I suppose little things grow big when one is worried about other things.
heir Quality Control still needs a bit of work, but overall it is a fine Locomotive and I think less wrong with it than an out of the box SL3.
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rangerssteamtoys
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Glad you pressed it in I would have done it as soon as I had the oppertunity.
Have you tested it yet?
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pauly
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| johnreid wrote: | | True, I have been stressed anyhow and I suppose little things grow big when one is worried about other things.heir Quality Control still needs a bit of work, but overall it is a fine Locomotive and I think less wrong with it than an out of the box SL3. |
know exactly what you mean John, I have several health issues both mental and physical and small stuff like this (small problems seeming huge) is a real problem for me
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Ah Clem
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Please keep us posted!
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johnreid
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Not much more to say, the only reason I did not tear right into it from the start was that it is still new, within warranty.
I can see why they would want any defective pieces to justify replcaement parts. However when one factors in the expense of International Postage, the warranty isnt really worth that much, Cheaper to fix it myself than to get warranty service.
I had to use a big Magnifying glass to do it, but it wasnt that difficult.
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Titan
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Very interseting! That splined design is almost exactly the modification Mike Goodall (of Goodall Filler Valve fame) used to do to original mamod wheels - New axles with splines, old wheels reamed out and then pressed on. A much more robust and accurate method compared to being punched on! I intend to fit axles like this to Janus eventually!
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johnreid
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I like the design, and I bet they just didnt press them in all the way
To be frank, they have added most of the common upgrades into the design. everything but a displacement lubricator.
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Les
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Does it go round the track now John??
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Graham-Jilly
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looking forward to seeing it run mate
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