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| Raide Baron |
I need your help to repair my WilescoHi at all,I've got problems of transmission with my second-hand Wilesco Tractor, and I'd like to know where the 2 washers are normally fitted on the large wheel (the one just behind the flywheel) : - 2 "outside", between the large wheel and the burner chamber; - 2 "inside"the chamber, behind the nut M3; - Or 1 on each side ? This tractor kit was build by the other owner but I've got a lot of anormal frictions (due to bad alignment ?) I'd like to resolve ! Thank you very much for your help. 
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| johnreid |
It might take some experimenting, here are the instructions though
http://www.ministeam.com/acatalog...ions_D415_416_417_375_376_377.pdf |
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| Raide Baron |
Thank you, johnreid , but I've got these instructions.
I understand that I have to fit them inside, isn't it ? On my tractor, they are actually fitted outside and I believe it's wrong... |
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| johnreid |
Mine is missing the lever that engages the drive, Why not move them and see? I do know that the spacing is critical so it should be evident quickly.
I really need to find the parts needed to finish mine, but odd Wilesco spare parts are hard to come by here. |
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| Raide Baron |
I put the question because to check that I must all dismount so it will be difficult to test anything... | ||
| Raide Baron |
I've checked everything and changed some washers but my running is still very poor... 
What's going on ? |
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| toxx |
... could you perhaps post some close-up pix of what you mean? I had a D409 once. | ||
| Raide Baron |
Sorry, but I'm without camera for the moment...
I tried about 50 times during this week-end to resolve my problem but without success for the moment. Each combination was tried. I think that one of my parts is originally defective and I believe that the "foot" of the large wheel is 1mm to long, causing friction when the burner chamber is dilating during the heating. 
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| IndianaRog |
Raide,
I rebuilt a Wilesco Old Smoky roller and just checked on how I lined up the washers. I have TWO brass washers (purchased at hardware store) mounted on the OUTSIDE of the firebox between the large gear and firebox. Each brass washer is the following thickness: 0.035 inches (about the thickness of a matchbook cover). So, the pair of washers back to back = 0.070 inches of thickness. The use of two brass washers as described above allowed the large gear to clear the firebox and properly engage with the smaller gear using the lever. As originally received I had problems much like you, but the setup I have now solved it. Hope this helps. cheers, Roger |
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| Raide Baron |
Indianarog,
Thank you very much for your detailed advice ! Can you describe me your flywheel shaft sequence from left to right ? This is my actual sequence : Pulley/flywheel/1 washer/brass cap/4 washers to the left hand side of the shaft; 1 washer/ex-centre plate/slide rod/1 special small washer/crank disk/spacer/piston rod/collar screw to the right hand side of the shaft. Did you use the original washers for your flywheel shaft ?
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| IndianaRog |
Raide, Looking at the Wilesco from the rear towards the front as if I were driving it...here is the sequence for the flywheel assembly from left to right: =================================== -pulley -flywheel -thin brass washer -thick brass spacer with hole in top for oiling -steel support frame -thick brass spacer with hole in top for oiling -steel support frame -thin brass washer -thick brass washer -eccentric assembly -nickel spacer -con rod -screw holding con rod to the eccentric assembly =================================== I used all original parts above...changed nothing from how I received it. I only used new brass washers of 0.035 inch thickness between firebox and large gear enabling the large gear to properly mesh with the built in gear in the flywheel hub AND so the very small gear in the center of the large gear would properly mesh with smaller gear which moves in and out with the lever. The clearances are tight but everything moves OK on mine without excessive gear clashing which these models are known for. If the above still leaves you baffled...I can try and take some extreme closeup photos tomorrow if I have good light outdoors. again, hope this helps. Roger |
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| Raide Baron |
If I refer to page 6 of the assembly instructions mentioned above, some parts are missing on your shaft but - thanks to that ? - it seems to work very well...
Now, I also suppose that tolerances vary from a mobile to another. 
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| Raide Baron |
Third day of complete disassembling-reassembly… without success.
I am completely disgusted ! I wonder now if part of my problem would not be due to wear of the flywheel which does not bite enough its shaft any more. 
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| Raide Baron |
Repaired !
Repaired ! Repaired ! With the advice of the clockmaker of my street who confirmed what I thought... It was in fact a bad internal diameter - too large - of my "loosing" flywheel and I've repaired it by hammering the shaft with a steel needle (un pointeau, en français) to ovalise it, increasing then its diameter, allowing next a normal grip for the flywheel and a normal distance with the large wheel. Thank you for your support. 
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| IndianaRog |
Congratulations Raide, that is a very strange thing to have been wrong with the flywheel, but fortunately you have found it and now made it right.
cheers, Roger |