Archive for The Unofficial Mamod and Other Steam Forum The Original Unofficial Toy Steam Forum Established 2006 The biggest, most popular steam forum around! Accept NO imitations! We have a growing community of regular posting members who chat about all aspects of toy and model steam.          The Unofficial Mamod and Other Steam Forum Forum Index -> Locomotives Spule 4 IP Boiler and bits are here! WOW. Amazing is the word that sums it up best. The Mamod one is a beer can compared to this thing. Fully worth the price, it is very thick and very heavy, rear end heavy, so it should match the nose heavy nature of the Mamod frame. Outside of a hammer, I do not think you could damage this thing. Full report over the weekend with photos. Keep your eyes here! SPOKESMAN Look forward to seeing it! Mamodman123 Get some pics up ASAP! would be good to see! Although I won't be hacking Rosa apart! Spule 4 Finding that the lubricator may be a bit of a pain, may need to shorten one cylinder bolt, or make a sleve and solder a longer tail on to the lubricator where it goes into the regulator. Checking past threads, I am not the only one with this issue..... tree ted I had to use the retaining bolt off my old cylinders on my new 1 as the head is alot smaller. still not happy with the way the pipe is so might redo it some time. Nice to see IP can get things across the bond quicker then they can send things halfway up there own country tmuir Yes I had problems fitting the lubricator. I slightly damaged mine and have a new one waiting until I strip my loco down next to fit one. Both of the lubricators I got had the pipe bent the wrong way, Is yours the same? Spule 4 Honestly, the Jane/Janet has the lubricator in the cab, so I wonder if I should re-locate it? I think the idea of putting it near the smokebox is to make it look like a Ffestiniog-esque sander. This would require a bit of soldering and a bit of tubing to make a collar. The other idea is to extend the very tip of the lubricator by about 1CM in lenght in the same manner. Or hack down the bolt. Tmuir, not sure about the wrong-way round bit? tree ted tmuir wrote: Yes I had problems fitting the lubricator. I slightly damaged mine and have a new one waiting until I strip my loco down next to fit one. Both of the lubricators I got had the pipe bent the wrong way, Is yours the same? Yes Tony The bend on mine was compleatly un helpful. might just get a new piece of pipe and rebuild it. Spule 4 Dont know if fitting it that much further back if it would still work as well. Dont forget youve got easy access to fill and empty the water out whilst its on the smoke box and the oil will be cept warm so it runs more freely. Steve tmuir You will know if the bends are wrong as when you try to fit it to the smoke box you will see the pipe bends are all bending the wrong way making it impossible to fit. Mamodman123 Anyone that needs a picture of the bends: Roly Williams tmuir wrote: You will know if the bends are wrong as when you try to fit it to the smoke box you will see the pipe bends are all bending the wrong way making it impossible to fit. If the bends are the wrong way, could it be a case of mounting it on the other side of the smokebox, or is it not that simple? Mamodman123 Roly Williams wrote: tmuir wrote: You will know if the bends are wrong as when you try to fit it to the smoke box you will see the pipe bends are all bending the wrong way making it impossible to fit. If the bends are the wrong way, could it be a case of mounting it on the other side of the smokebox, or is it not that simple? The pipe comes out on the left hand side, so you have to put the lubricator on the right, should check before you solder it in. I've provided some pictures, so hopefully there are no more mistakes tmuir No you can only mount it on one side or the mounting hole wont line up. When I got it I tried every way possible to make it fit with the bends but its just wasnt possible. It looked like they bent the pipe up first with a jig, the bends where all done very well but when the soldered the pipe on thy had the pipe rotated 90 degrees the wrong way. I'll dig up a picture of the one I got sent and a link to the one on IPengineering website which is correct for you to see the difference. tmuir This link to IP Engineering shows the lubricator bent up the correct way. And here is mine bent the wrong way. Mamodman123 Yes, you can clearly see it's been bent the wrong way there Tony! Spule 4 tmuir wrote: This link to IP Engineering shows the lubricator bent up the correct way. And here is mine bent the wrong way. Mine is bent the same way as yours, but fitting it should be no problem once you bend the line over for the loco, so not sure what the "wrong way round" issue is? Tubing issues are nothging for me, I have re-plumbed a few Citroen automobiles in my past, so nothing new! Mamodman123 Spule 4 wrote: tmuir wrote: This link to IP Engineering shows the lubricator bent up the correct way. And here is mine bent the wrong way. Mine is bent the same way as yours, but fitting it should be no problem once you bend the line over for the loco, so not sure what the "wrong way round" issue is? Tubing issues are nothging for me, I have re-plumbed a few Citroen automobiles in my past, so nothing new! The pipe won't come out the right side if it's been bent the wrong way. It can only go on one side of the loco Spule 4 tree ted wrote: Spule 4 Dont know if fitting it that much further back if it would still work as well. Dont forget youve got easy access to fill and empty the water out whilst its on the smoke box and the oil will be cept warm so it runs more freely. Steve A vailid point. My "memory" is the cab is warm enough with operating, especially with the longer boiler hanging into it now. IP and PPS mount their lubricators there, but have open top cabs on the Jane/Janet, so access might be a bit more tough. Food for thought for me now, thanks!!! Spule 4 Mamodman123 wrote: The pipe won't come out the right side if it's been bent the wrong way. It can only go on one side of the loco ???? Are you guys REALLY that afraid of bending tubing? I see the whole bending task taking a matter of minutes and kink free as the tubing is so soft (try bending steel line sometime, it is a real <bleep>!). The bend out of the bottom of the pot needs a 45 deg hard turn right af the base so it does not go back but to the left as shown in the photo of it mounted on the loco, then a gradual taper down and slope to allow for gravitly feed (no swags) to its mounting position. Mamodman123 Spule 4 wrote: Mamodman123 wrote: The pipe won't come out the right side if it's been bent the wrong way. It can only go on one side of the loco ???? Are you guys REALLY that afraid of bending tubing? I see the whole bending task taking a matter of minutes and kink free as the tubing is so soft (try bending steel line sometime, it is a real <bleep>!). The bend out of the bottom of the pot needs a 45 deg hard turn right af the base so it does not go back but to the left as shown in the photo of it mounted on the loco, then a gradual taper down and slope to allow for gravitly feed (no swags) to its mounting position. It's just the thickness (or rather thinness) of the pipe. One kink and it will need a new pipe, wouldn't be as bad if the pipe wasn't thin. It's not a gravity feed lubricator, it doesn't drip. The pipe goes right up through the lubricator to the top and the steam 'carries' the oil to the cylinders. Hence why the pipework needs to be spot on! tmuir Spule 4 wrote: Mamodman123 wrote: The pipe won't come out the right side if it's been bent the wrong way. It can only go on one side of the loco ???? Are you guys REALLY that afraid of bending tubing? No I did rebend it and fit it. It is just that I paid for a finished ready to fit lubricator and it was all bent wrong. Would of rather it was not bent at all than having to straighten and rebend the pipe as doing that you can never get it looking neat (Well I cant anyways) I've replaced tubing on other restoration projects that I had to bend up but I didnt use pipe that was already bent up the wrong way, straighten it and then rebend it the correct way. More an issue of if I buy something I expect it to be made correctly and not have to redo their workmanship. Mamodman123 tmuir wrote: Spule 4 wrote: Mamodman123 wrote: The pipe won't come out the right side if it's been bent the wrong way. It can only go on one side of the loco ???? Are you guys REALLY that afraid of bending tubing? No I did rebend it and fit it. It is just that I paid for a finished ready to fit lubricator and it was all bent wrong. Would of rather it was not bent at all than having to straighten and rebend the pipe as doing that you can never get it looking neat (Well I cant anyways) I've replaced tubing on other restoration projects that I had to bend up but I didnt use pipe that was already bent up the wrong way, straighten it and then rebend it the correct way. More an issue of if I buy something I expect it to be made correctly and not have to redo their workmanship. The more you bend whichever way, the more chance of kinks and possible breaks!. So you want to get it right first time of course. We've all had to bend them, so it's not a question of being scared to bend pipes If you pay 18 pounds for something, you expect it to be spot on! Spule 4 Mamodman123 wrote: It's not a gravity feed lubricator, it doesn't drip. The pipe goes right up through the lubricator to the top and the steam 'carries' the oil to the cylinders. Hence why the pipework needs to be spot on! Ah, yes, but isn't it a displacement one so you cannot have it running upwards for the feed? http://www.shopping-emporium-uk.c...dhouse/technical.htm#Displacement tmuir It is a displacement type lubricator. Im not quiet sure by what you mean by cannot have it running upward for the feed though. The link you have shown is how the roundhouse lubricators are made with main steam pipe passing through which is not how the Mamod ones are made they are more a 'T' off the steam line but they do work as I get a nice thin line of oil in the top of the smokestack and water inside the lubricator. Mamodman123 Spule 4 wrote: Mamodman123 wrote: It's not a gravity feed lubricator, it doesn't drip. The pipe goes right up through the lubricator to the top and the steam 'carries' the oil to the cylinders. Hence why the pipework needs to be spot on! Ah, yes, but isn't it a displacement one so you cannot have it running upwards for the feed? http://www.shopping-emporium-uk.c...dhouse/technical.htm#Displacement Yesit is a displacement lubricator but the pipe goes up through the bottom instead of through the lubricator, its not an in-line one. But does the same job Spule 4 tmuir wrote: It is a displacement type lubricator. Im not quiet sure by what you mean by cannot have it running upward for the feed though. The link you have shown is how the roundhouse lubricators are made with main steam pipe passing through which is not how the Mamod ones are made they are more a 'T' off the steam line but they do work as I get a nice thin line of oil in the top of the smokestack and water inside the lubricator. Right, but it is the water displacement, not steam pressure that will push the oil down, hence no swags. bessytractor which side of the regulator is the lubricator supposed to plug into? I may have found why my mamod is crap..... Mamodman123 bessytractor wrote: which side of the regulator is the lubricator supposed to plug into? I may have found why my mamod is crap..... If its not like this its wrong Left side bessytractor Mamodman123 wrote: bessytractor wrote: which side of the regulator is the lubricator supposed to plug into? I may have found why my mamod is crap..... If its not like this its wrong Left side it is like that, but its still crap! i.e. IT WON'T WORK!!!!! lol Mamodman123 bessytractor wrote: Mamodman123 wrote: bessytractor wrote: which side of the regulator is the lubricator supposed to plug into? I may have found why my mamod is crap..... If its not like this its wrong Left side it is like that, but its still crap! i.e. IT WON'T WORK!!!!! lol Whats wrong with it? Steam leaks? Doesn't run at all or for long? bessytractor Mamodman123 wrote: bessytractor wrote: Mamodman123 wrote: bessytractor wrote: which side of the regulator is the lubricator supposed to plug into? I may have found why my mamod is crap..... If its not like this its wrong Left side it is like that, but its still crap! i.e. IT WON'T WORK!!!!! lol Whats wrong with it? Steam leaks? Doesn't run at all or for long? basically i bought it new as a kit and it was supplied new with IP cylinders. my word they are blummin heavy, so heavy in fact the steam decides it really would rather find an alternative route from the boiler (putting out the fire in the process) and returns to the hydrological cycle, rather than power my loco. Mamodman123 Sounds like you have a leak from somewhere! Possibly at the steam block. The cylinders shouldn't be too heavy as mine uses PPS cylinders which with the gaskets are heavier than the IP ones. They are very smooth too! Have you tried running it on blocks? bessytractor Mamodman123 wrote: Sounds like you have a leak from somewhere! Possibly at the steam block. The cylinders shouldn't be too heavy as mine uses PPS cylinders which with the gaskets are heavier than the IP ones. They are very smooth too! Have you tried running it on blocks? OH yes, tried it on blocks all right! the loco REALLY doesn't want to know, and I'm not kidding, I drive 7 1/4" gauge and this thing still defeats me, so I gave up and went off to play with the 7 1/4". the leak seems to come from the regulator generally, I lapped it which marginally improved it. I reckon the leak is where the lubricator joins the steam line from the boiler. The wheels won't even attempt to turn, not at all, even when helped. Mamodman123 bessytractor wrote: Mamodman123 wrote: Sounds like you have a leak from somewhere! Possibly at the steam block. The cylinders shouldn't be too heavy as mine uses PPS cylinders which with the gaskets are heavier than the IP ones. They are very smooth too! Have you tried running it on blocks? OH yes, tried it on blocks all right! the loco REALLY doesn't want to know, and I'm not kidding, I drive 7 1/4" gauge and this thing still defeats me, so I gave up and went off to play with the 7 1/4". the leak seems to come from the regulator generally, I lapped it which marginally improved it. I reckon the leak is where the lubricator joins the steam line from the boiler. The wheels won't even attempt to turn, not at all, even when helped. Solder it up then! Ive had that problem aswell! Some of the problems with these locos can be so simple and when you've fixed it, it will fly If the wheels don't attempt to turn it must be loosing pressure somewhere, have you tried building up steam then pulling a cylinder away from the loco to see how much pressure is getting inside them? bessytractor Mamodman123 wrote: bessytractor wrote: Mamodman123 wrote: Sounds like you have a leak from somewhere! Possibly at the steam block. The cylinders shouldn't be too heavy as mine uses PPS cylinders which with the gaskets are heavier than the IP ones. They are very smooth too! Have you tried running it on blocks? OH yes, tried it on blocks all right! the loco REALLY doesn't want to know, and I'm not kidding, I drive 7 1/4" gauge and this thing still defeats me, so I gave up and went off to play with the 7 1/4". the leak seems to come from the regulator generally, I lapped it which marginally improved it. I reckon the leak is where the lubricator joins the steam line from the boiler. The wheels won't even attempt to turn, not at all, even when helped. Solder it up then! Ive had that problem aswell! Some of the problems with these locos can be so simple and when you've fixed it, it will fly If the wheels don't attempt to turn it must be loosing pressure somewhere, have you tried building up steam then pulling a cylinder away from the loco to see how much pressure is getting inside them? no I stopped playing around with it ages ago in disgust. Its the only mamod I've ever had trouble with. I'll solder it tomorrow and see what happens. you get a bit annoyed when an engine much simpler than what your used to doesn't work! Mamodman123 Keep me updated, If i gave up on mine i'd have had a lot more time left took me roughly a year to get mine pulling 9 coaches and this included a day before STIA rebuild bessytractor Mamodman123 wrote: Keep me updated, If i gave up on mine i'd have had a lot more time left took me roughly a year to get mine pulling 9 coaches and this included a day before STIA rebuild i just hydraulic tested the loco and the regulator seems steam tight. i reckon your right. how else would the fire be put out? the steam joints right in front of it! Mamodman123 bessytractor wrote: Mamodman123 wrote: Keep me updated, If i gave up on mine i'd have had a lot more time left took me roughly a year to get mine pulling 9 coaches and this included a day before STIA rebuild i just hydraulic tested the loco and the regulator seems steam tight. i reckon your right. how else would the fire be put out? the steam joints right in front of it! Must be, I've had the same problem when you open it up the flame goes out, and the wicks get blown out. If you can't solder it, maybe a little bit of sealent you can test it, then peal away the silicon or whatever, I did a similar thing with mine, once I located the problem I just pealed off the silicon and soldered it bessytractor Mamodman123 wrote: bessytractor wrote: Mamodman123 wrote: Keep me updated, If i gave up on mine i'd have had a lot more time left took me roughly a year to get mine pulling 9 coaches and this included a day before STIA rebuild i just hydraulic tested the loco and the regulator seems steam tight. i reckon your right. how else would the fire be put out? the steam joints right in front of it! Must be, I've had the same problem when you open it up the flame goes out, and the wicks get blown out. If you can't solder it, maybe a little bit of sealent you can test it, then peal away the silicon or whatever, I did a similar thing with mine, once I located the problem I just pealed off the silicon and soldered it sod it im going to solder it tomorrow night, too late now! I wonder if I could permanently seal it with Forget Nails? Mamodman123 bessytractor wrote: Mamodman123 wrote: bessytractor wrote: Mamodman123 wrote: Keep me updated, If i gave up on mine i'd have had a lot more time left took me roughly a year to get mine pulling 9 coaches and this included a day before STIA rebuild i just hydraulic tested the loco and the regulator seems steam tight. i reckon your right. how else would the fire be put out? the steam joints right in front of it! Must be, I've had the same problem when you open it up the flame goes out, and the wicks get blown out. If you can't solder it, maybe a little bit of sealent you can test it, then peal away the silicon or whatever, I did a similar thing with mine, once I located the problem I just pealed off the silicon and soldered it sod it im going to solder it tomorrow night, too late now! I wonder if I could permanently seal it with Forget Nails? You could probably do it with araldite if it was heat resistant, bit of a bodge, just solder everything bessytractor Mamodman123 wrote: bessytractor wrote: Mamodman123 wrote: bessytractor wrote: Mamodman123 wrote: Keep me updated, If i gave up on mine i'd have had a lot more time left took me roughly a year to get mine pulling 9 coaches and this included a day before STIA rebuild i just hydraulic tested the loco and the regulator seems steam tight. i reckon your right. how else would the fire be put out? the steam joints right in front of it! Must be, I've had the same problem when you open it up the flame goes out, and the wicks get blown out. If you can't solder it, maybe a little bit of sealent you can test it, then peal away the silicon or whatever, I did a similar thing with mine, once I located the problem I just pealed off the silicon and soldered it sod it im going to solder it tomorrow night, too late now! I wonder if I could permanently seal it with Forget Nails? You could probably do it with araldite if it was heat resistant, bit of a bodge, just solder everything i think you've cracked it MM, right the 75 watt iron is coming out tomorrow! it won't be great but it will do. is Rosa the yellow one? mines being done up in BR black eventually (but at the mo Im looking at a 3 1/2" loco!) Mamodman123 bessytractor wrote: Mamodman123 wrote: bessytractor wrote: Mamodman123 wrote: bessytractor wrote: Mamodman123 wrote: Keep me updated, If i gave up on mine i'd have had a lot more time left took me roughly a year to get mine pulling 9 coaches and this included a day before STIA rebuild i just hydraulic tested the loco and the regulator seems steam tight. i reckon your right. how else would the fire be put out? the steam joints right in front of it! Must be, I've had the same problem when you open it up the flame goes out, and the wicks get blown out. If you can't solder it, maybe a little bit of sealent you can test it, then peal away the silicon or whatever, I did a similar thing with mine, once I located the problem I just pealed off the silicon and soldered it sod it im going to solder it tomorrow night, too late now! I wonder if I could permanently seal it with Forget Nails? You could probably do it with araldite if it was heat resistant, bit of a bodge, just solder everything i think you've cracked it MM, right the 75 watt iron is coming out tomorrow! it won't be great but it will do. is Rosa the yellow one? mines being done up in BR black eventually (but at the mo Im looking at a 3 1/2" loco!) Good to hear! Yes, Rosa is the yellow loco, although it was originally black with gold decals. I had an accident and it yes then repainted Let me know how you get on i had the same heartache with mine, believe me bessytractor Mamodman123 wrote: bessytractor wrote: Mamodman123 wrote: bessytractor wrote: Mamodman123 wrote: bessytractor wrote: Mamodman123 wrote: Keep me updated, If i gave up on mine i'd have had a lot more time left took me roughly a year to get mine pulling 9 coaches and this included a day before STIA rebuild i just hydraulic tested the loco and the regulator seems steam tight. i reckon your right. how else would the fire be put out? the steam joints right in front of it! Must be, I've had the same problem when you open it up the flame goes out, and the wicks get blown out. If you can't solder it, maybe a little bit of sealent you can test it, then peal away the silicon or whatever, I did a similar thing with mine, once I located the problem I just pealed off the silicon and soldered it sod it im going to solder it tomorrow night, too late now! I wonder if I could permanently seal it with Forget Nails? You could probably do it with araldite if it was heat resistant, bit of a bodge, just solder everything i think you've cracked it MM, right the 75 watt iron is coming out tomorrow! it won't be great but it will do. is Rosa the yellow one? mines being done up in BR black eventually (but at the mo Im looking at a 3 1/2" loco!) Good to hear! Yes, Rosa is the yellow loco, although it was originally black with gold decals. I had an accident and it yes then repainted Let me know how you get on i had the same heartache with mine, believe me thanks! tree ted Bessy. Do the retaining bolt on the cylinders get in the way of the t joint of the lubricator were it enters the regulator? mine were puting the t joint at a funny angle, so I replaced them with the bolts off my old cylinders. Garrett What was the pic you got on the 16mm egroup? was it any help? MM Seen the video looks fantastic. Ive got a rake of 4 wooden bogie coaches that I run with my Merlin. Having seen the video of Rosa im very tempted to give it a try once Ive got a new gas tank. Steve bessytractor tree ted wrote: Bessy. Do the retaining bolt on the cylinders get in the way of the t joint of the lubricator were it enters the regulator? mine were puting the t joint at a funny angle, so I replaced them with the bolts off my old cylinders. Garrett What was the pic you got on the 16mm egroup? was it any help? MM Seen the video looks fantastic. Ive got a rake of 4 wooden bogie coaches that I run with my Merlin. Having seen the video of Rosa im very tempted to give it a try once Ive got a new gas tank. Steve no the lubricator is in exactly as it should be Mamodman123 tree ted wrote: Bessy. Do the retaining bolt on the cylinders get in the way of the t joint of the lubricator were it enters the regulator? mine were puting the t joint at a funny angle, so I replaced them with the bolts off my old cylinders. Garrett What was the pic you got on the 16mm egroup? was it any help? MM Seen the video looks fantastic. Ive got a rake of 4 wooden bogie coaches that I run with my Merlin. Having seen the video of Rosa im very tempted to give it a try once Ive got a new gas tank. Steve hehe can't wait to see yours then if you can do a short video? It suprised me really at how much it could pull . tree ted yeh hopefully wont be long now. will deffinatly do a video once she is up and running Spule 4 tree ted wrote: Garrett What was the pic you got on the 16mm egroup? was it any help? Steve Pic of a Mamod with a SS boiler in it, but using a Roundhouse lubricator in the cab. I have to confess, I am not happy with the IP lubricator as is due to the interference, and I fear leaks. I am not going to put it on the front of the engine. I am going to find a way to adapt it and put it in the cab. Some silver solder is en route for this, and I need to work out an adaptor and remove the bulky connector from it. Tonight, I got the boiler installed, the boiler and body back on the frame, and I am playing with some odds and ends. The safety valve seems to be set around 45 PSI when I checked it with compressed air, I am going to adjust it down a bit. BTW, the IP boiler uses a different thread pitch than the Mamod boiler, so I have a spare Mamod thread high pressure safety valve. I'll keep it in the box in case another Mamod comes to light. tree ted Garrett Any chance ytou could put the pic up? Im looking at re-doing my conection into the steam pipe as It just seems to get in th way of the bolts on the cylinders and reversing block were it is. Steve Spule 4 tree ted wrote: Garrett Any chance ytou could put the pic up? Im looking at re-doing my conection into the steam pipe as It just seems to get in th way of the bolts on the cylinders and reversing block were it is. Steve The entry into the block will be stock Mamod. The lubricator will be in the cab. I will post a photo of it once done, but it may be a while due to work schedule and getting my hands on some silver solder. sparky silver solder always does the job Spule 4 sparky wrote: silver solder always does the job Yeah, the plumbing solder I had here melted in the heat of my burner. I discovered this by setting up the burner and passing the solder through it. sparky o dear thats just a bit to hot, silver should do the job then shouldnt it Mamodman123 Spule 4 wrote: sparky wrote: silver solder always does the job Yeah, the plumbing solder I had here melted in the heat of my burner. I discovered this by setting up the burner and passing the solder through it. What burner were you using? Gas? Solder should never melt unless there is water in the boiler! Spule 4 Mamodman123 wrote: Spule 4 wrote: sparky wrote: silver solder always does the job Yeah, the plumbing solder I had here melted in the heat of my burner. I discovered this by setting up the burner and passing the solder through it. What burner were you using? Gas? Solder should never melt unless there is water in the boiler! Meths, sitting on the bench, and passing the coil over it for testing prior to use, no water involved??? Mamodman123 Spule 4 wrote: Mamodman123 wrote: Spule 4 wrote: sparky wrote: silver solder always does the job Yeah, the plumbing solder I had here melted in the heat of my burner. I discovered this by setting up the burner and passing the solder through it. What burner were you using? Gas? Solder should never melt unless there is water in the boiler! Meths, sitting on the bench, and passing the coil over it for testing prior to use, no water involved??? So you were melting solder over a burner? On the loco there will be water inside the boiler so it has no chance of melting Spule 4 Mamodman123 wrote: So you were melting solder over a burner? On the loco there will be water inside the boiler so it has no chance of melting ???? The boiler is silver soldered already, I am not mucking with it. The superheater line will pass right in the flames. I am going to get the final answer from the boiler guru this week, but either way, the coupling is going to be near footplate level, unless another clever idea pans out. Mamodman123 Spule 4 wrote: Mamodman123 wrote: So you were melting solder over a burner? On the loco there will be water inside the boiler so it has no chance of melting ???? The boiler is silver soldered already, I am not mucking with it. The superheater line will pass right in the flames. I am going to get the final answer from the boiler guru this week, but either way, the coupling is going to be near footplate level, unless another clever idea pans out. You mentioned above something melted under the heat of the burner "I had here melted in the heat of my burner" What? tmuir He is planing on making a new superheater pipe and is worried if it is soft soldered the solder will melt in the flame. I would agree for the superheater pipe if there is any solder exposed to direct flame I would use silver solder. Mamodman123 tmuir wrote: He is planing on making a new superheater pipe and is worried if it is soft soldered the solder will melt in the flame. I would agree for the superheater pipe if there is any solder exposed to direct flame I would use silver solder. It hasn't melted for me under direct flame tmuir The boiler wont under direct flame as you said all the water will keep it cool enough but if you have a 1/8 inch pipe that has been sodered in direct flame the may not be enough water in it to keep it from melting. I would personally rather solder it with silver solder rather than risk a super heater pipe coming undone. The risk may be low but I have the gear to silver solder so I would. Would never silver solder a mamod boiler up as that is unnecessary but would silver solder up any new boilers I made for my own engines. Spule 4 tmuir wrote: The boiler wont under direct flame as you said all the water will keep it cool enough but if you have a 1/8 inch pipe that has been sodered in direct flame the may not be enough water in it to keep it from melting. I would personally rather solder it with silver solder rather than risk a super heater pipe coming undone. Exactly. Especially when the existing solder failed the burner test on the bench..... Spule 4 It lives! Tonite, the first time in well over 17+ years, the Mamod ran under steam. Last night I borrowed a MAPP gas torch from a friend's neighbor, propane was not hacking it for the silver soldering. I made up a superheater pipe using the bit that goes into the Mamod reverser block (stock Mamod) and larger sized tube going back to the cab. To this, added the lubricator. Then, I shortened the IP steam line from the regulator and also soldered it into the lubricator, so the whole operation is now in the cab. The footplate is a bit more full now. I have to figure out where exactly to mount the lubricator (it is floating on its line in the cab). Anyhow, while a friend was here (who has fired 1:1 steam locos for a living) we added water, alcohol, steam oil and waited..... ....in under 5 minutes she is running. Two minor leaks from the threaded lines (need to use high temp pipe dope which I have here) but no binds, knocks, or other leaks. Runs like a champ, on the workbench. The IP boiler and regulator are nice for sure, well worth the price! Next test is a loop of track, probably sometime this weekend. tmuir Sounds good. Any chance of some photos? Mamodman123 Sounds like it went well! Any photos? Spule 4 Mamod rebuild photos First run since about 1989, and first use of the track since about 1986 or so. Here it is, runs on track, a bit weak, but a few tweaks needed yet, actually, it is not even really bolted together yet, but I had it running for about two hours today. What you do not see is my 16mo daughter in chase, at that age, they do not understand that is a bit hotter than the LGB trains that are normally on the deck! It builds steam fast, I gotta play with the wicks and get the burner level. The new safety valve is nice, it jets strait up with a nice POP at 40psig. Well, the IP lubricator LEAKS steam in the bottom fitting (it appears that the back part is press fit in), so another bit of soldering needed. If you want one in the cab, don't bother, get the inline one from Roundhouse, they are cheaper anyhow! Tight fit on the footplate: That top fitting above the glass calls for a pressure gauge. All in all, a good project that requires a bit more work to be 100%. The bits other than the lubricator (which I have modified to its defense, but it does not fit where it is supposed to also) are all top quality, and both vendors (IP and PPS) were great on international service. And a thanks to Nashville native Harry Wade for steam oil and some tech help over the phone and net. Harry is well known for his high quality boilers. And for all that said I should not put money into a Mamod (granted, no one on this board), my buddy Kitchener has a message for you: Spule 4 Here are the bad bits, the cut up boiler, the stuck Goodall valve (vice and pliars to get it ouf of the torn boiler fitting) the broken safety valve and the funky Dutch lubricator. Also the drivers with worn con rod pins. tmuir Nicely done. I was looking at the Roundhouse lubricator on my Lady Anne and as Mamod Man gave me a nice regulator made for the Mamods when I next strip down my SL2 I would do some rebuilding and replace my IPEngineering lubricator with a Roundhouse one. At the moment I'm not touching my SL2 though as its working perfectly and you know what happens when you fiddle with something that isnt broken........... I don't have any steam leaks at all on my Mamod now. I think due to a combination of my lapping everything and using a non-setting high temperature gasket goo on the lubticator fittings and liberal use of steam oil all the small steam leaks I had, have sealed up. Its a great feeling to bring an old dead steam toy back to life. SPOKESMAN Interesting stuff there. Mamodman123 Well done! Certainly does the job! Although the ip lubricator looks a bit naff Its getting a bit crowded back there now though I agree Tony if it works well then don't fiddle with it SPOKESMAN I love working out how all that plumbing works - although not a model steam loco collector, I still find it fascinating to see. Spule 4 tmuir wrote: Nicely done. I was looking at the Roundhouse lubricator on my Lady Anne and as Mamod Man gave me a nice regulator made for the Mamods when I next strip down my SL2 I would do some rebuilding and replace my IPEngineering lubricator with a Roundhouse one. Its a great feeling to bring an old dead steam toy back to life. Yeah the Roundhouse one would be the way to go, they both work the same and I think the Roundhouse ones have a drain. When I solder up the IP lubricator again, I will heat up the tube for it and bend it into a proper spot. MAPP is the way to go folks! Thanks, it was good to bring it back to life. I may look at some pistons now, as it is a bit weak, but I want to run it some more before I decide that. Spule 4 SPOKESMAN wrote: I love working out how all that plumbing works - although not a model steam loco collector, I still find it fascinating to see. I built up the superheater, using the tube for the regulator and the fatter tube to the lubricator (brass). Then soldered up the lubricator to super heater. Then I cut and bent the tube from the regulator and got it to where I wanted it (and to clear the burner tube and the rear cab wall). I then took the whole thing out of the loco, and then soldered it on the workbench. Now to Permatex the threaded joints and bend up the lubricator tube. tmuir Spule 4 wrote: Yeah the Roundhouse one would be the way to go, they both work the same and I think the Roundhouse ones have a drain. Yes it does you can see it in this photo of my Lady Anne when it was under construction Spule 4 tmuir wrote: Spule 4 wrote: Yeah the Roundhouse one would be the way to go, they both work the same and I think the Roundhouse ones have a drain. Yes it does you can see it in this photo of my Lady Anne when it was under construction Good modelling there. I have a photo of one of these in a Mamod cab, they will fit, much to the same as what I hope to do.        The Unofficial Mamod and Other Steam Forum Forum Index -> Locomotives Page 1 of 1