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Ok here is the 75 with the meth burner, In the second video you can hear the difference in the engine does it need to be ran in? I have no idea.
I did remove the firebox and put nuts and bolts for now, flipped over the inner tray and it fit just fine, still looks like steam leaks by the window and the handle also
johnreid
The sight glass might need to be snugged up if it leaks, it sounds slow though, did you allow the pressure to build or did you do like me and get it going as soon as there is enough pressure to get it to run on its own? I now wait a little longer and it makes a big difference, I believe Mark waits til the pressure gauge starts to pop off.
CuriousSteam
Yes John I wait till it has enough pressure to run on its own. Thw no guage thing bothers me,
I'll run it some more later, I do like the exhaust sound thou, not like anyother I have
Wallace
Nice vids So the 2nd Vid had the meths burner? Do you have a pic of it (I bet I've missed it or forgotten I have seen it)?
It will eventually run in. All engines do and they reach a point where they are at their peak. My 75 runs much better now than when I bought it new.
I did a thread on what to do with a Jensen 75 when you buy it. This was with thanks to Rog. It did feel weird to be pulling apart an engine I had just bought and never ran.
Re your sightglass leaking, this is a quote from my thread which Rog posted to me:
Remove that ring upon receipt, remove the outer gasket, glass and then inner gasket.
Polish the seat which the gasket sits on with a dremel and make sure it is very clean with cotton buds soaked in meths. Biggest source of leaks with those sight glasses is a bit of brass crud under the gasket.
Then with some steam oil, gently oil those two gaskets and work oil in with your fingers...pat dry and replace in reverse of how they came out.
Snug the metal ring hand tight. When running under pressure, you will likely get a drip...snug the tool again but using an adjustable wrench (we call them Crescent tools...the major brand) for a bit of leverage...NOT gorilla tight, but maybe 1/4 turn beyond hand tight. Repeat until any drippage stops completely.
I can't help with the tap leaking. I think in the past people have suggested vaseline, or maybe some sort of grease just to help it seat better. Not sure, best to wait for one of the Jensen expert suggestions, though a little steam oil might help it seal?
Edit: Don't worry about the lack of a gauge. They are handy, but only good if they are accurate. A working safety valve will always do the job
johnreid
What I meant was that I do not wait long enough thus not letting enough pressure build, however a short time longer before running cures that. Most Steam engines do not come with pressure gauges but Jensen does sell one as an optional accessory.
IndianaRog
CS...Wallace gave you the advice I would have for fixing leaks around the porthole sightglass window, so won't repeat. Only other suggestion for the steam regulator valve leaking is (when cool), press up on the bottom spring loaded part until it unseats the valve...then squirt some steam oil in the gap between the parts and rotate the valve to work it in. That little bit of oil seems to virtually stop any leaks from those valves unless there is some crud in the seat.
They do take some running in either on air or steam...always smooth out with time. Enjoy! Your burner looks great.
Roger
CuriousSteam
Thanks guys for the comments and suggestions, I will do what was said to the 75 and fix some of the issues it's giving me. Happy with it thou, runs solid!! I'll post some pics later of the burner, it was used in both videos.