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This it all apart, so I could figure out what I need.
It needs a heater, power cord/cord restraint, trunnion screw/spring, stack, all the gaskets. The mounting screws for the steam chest are stripped, so I have to replace those, I will most likely have to settle for brass, cause I don't see any way to to get nickel plated brass screws for it.
Suggestions?
I will need to sandblast and repaint the firebox. The base is badly damaged where someone pried the twist nails out, so I think I may need to make a new one. Its solid pine, so it should not be too hard to reproduce, and Rog sent me the UL image, so I can replace that.
Here are all the nickel plated bits polished up. Most of it shined up pretty well. All of the stuff I thought had no plating, it was just a LOT of thick sticky crud.
More to come later!
redryder
Jensen may have all the correct screws available.
Give our friend Dorita a call and she will most likely get you dialed in correctly !
Gil
igy569
redryder wrote:
Jensen may have all the correct screws available.
Give our friend Dorita a call and she will most likely get you dialed in correctly !
Gil
Thanks Gil... as soon as I have some more money, I plan to do EXACTLY that. Dorita is the best. It would be AWESOME if Jensen still has those screws I need!
tmuir
Interesting, the whistle looked like it had gold paint on it just like mine.
I hope when my polish arrives mine cleans up as well as yours.
IndianaRog
Owen, if Dorita doesn't have nickel plated screws to fit...there are two options I have used:
1) brush on a thin coat of solder on brass screw heads and polish with a dremel...looks just like old nickel plate
2) get stainless steel screws of the same size...my local hardware (ACE) carries such things...they don't look quite the same as nickel, but not bad and in a spot like that they won't be noticed.
Personally I would go brass with a coat of solder...looks most realistic if nickel plated brass isn't available.
Rog
ps...dang that thing cleaned up nicely!!!
Les
Looking good so far and here's hoping you can get the appropriate parts.
igy569
IndianaRog wrote:
Owen, if Dorita doesn't have nickel plated screws to fit...there are two options I have used:
1) brush on a thin coat of solder on brass screw heads and polish with a dremel...looks just like old nickel plate
2) get stainless steel screws of the same size...my local hardware (ACE) carries such things...they don't look quite the same as nickel, but not bad and in a spot like that they won't be noticed.
Personally I would go brass with a coat of solder...looks most realistic if nickel plated brass isn't available.
Rog
ps...dang that thing cleaned up nicely!!!
Thanks for the idea Rog! I already picked up the brass screws today. I think I will stick with brass also cause it won't strip the boiler. (or is less likely to..)
IndianaRog
Owen, all you have to "plate" with the solder are the screw heads...then use a wad of steel wool handy to wipe them after solder application while solder is still liquid. Polish with your Dremel and voila, old looking nickel but really solder coated.
johnreid
Plate the screw heads and while still hot wipe with a damp cloth, it is shiny and little or no polishing is required. Takes a bit of experience but works great. Flux helps too.
robertosala
That is a good tip guys.
Cheap alternative to nickel plating.
Thanks for sharing it.
Rob.
igy569
A bit more progress...
Here are the firebox for the 35 and a model 5 cast base I am doing over for another project.
Sand blasted clean.
Here are the parts freshly painted. The blue paint on the 5 base actually matches the color I found on the underside of the base. So I am guessing this is more what the color looked like when these engines were new...
More to come as I move along with this.
logoman
I can see that this is going to be beautiful!
IndianaRog
Both those projects are going to look great Owen...you are really getting good!
Les
They look much better.
Bugsy
You are getting good at that, Owen!
igy569
Some more progress...
The firebox sand blasted clean. It had been repainted before, and there was a LOT of rust under the paint. So it got a lot of pitting.
Here is the box painted up. Also here is the base I made to replace the badly damaged one it came with. I got it pretty close. I will be ordering the decal paper tomorrow, as well as calling Jensen to order the rest of the parts I need.
More to come!
IndianaRog
Lookin' great Owen, I do believe that base is about as perfectly matched to factory as you can get...sweet!
igy569
Further updates of the Cast 35
Another Update...
Needed to copy the guard for the 5 which I am working on at the same time...
Can you tell them apart?
The finished item....
Hooking up the heater. I am using period cloth cord. Keepinh this one almost completely original.
Almost there!!!
Putting on the UL label...
The Finished product...
Next.... The 5!!!!
A video of this steaming will come later... Its too late for me now.
SlideValve
Wow, that looks great!
johnreid
I hope to see a Video soon. Looks great
Nick
Hey Owen, where'd you get the cloth cord and find that end?
igy569
Nick wrote:
Hey Owen, where'd you get the cloth cord and find that end?
Found the cloth cord on Ebay (of course) and i had the end from a prior restore. You can get the rubber ones still... watch for the post on the 5, it will have a new plug...
Nick
igy569 wrote:
Nick wrote:
Hey Owen, where'd you get the cloth cord and find that end?
Found the cloth cord on Ebay (of course) and i had the end from a prior restore. You can get the rubber ones still... watch for the post on the 5, it will have a new plug...
I figured the cord came from ebay.
I have found a source for the more common Jensen ends, but the one you used looks very similar to the one used on the earliest Jensens (riveted boilers) and I could use 1 or 2 of those if you find a source.
johnreid
Nick, look at the oldes junkiest small appliances at Yard Sales, I got a real nice cord and end for 50 cents this summer, of course it was attached to a waffle iron.
Nick
johnreid wrote:
Nick, look at the oldes junkiest small appliances at Yard Sales, I got a real nice cord and end for 50 cents this summer, of course it was attached to a waffle iron.
I did the same thing at a junk shop. I bought some old irons, kept the cords and gave the irons back to the store. They looked at me a little funny though.
Les
That looks great, well done.
IndianaRog
Owen, that is one to be proud of, very nice job !
Griffin
Very nice job indeed. Looks just the part.
On looking at the cast flywheel, is that a type similar to the forgotten #35? It just looks thinner in width than the usual type used on the early #5, and #25 etc.
Sandman
Excellent Job there..
gd9704
Looks great. Very well done!
igy569
The video is up!
Also in the videos thread!
gd9704
And you should be happy! It runs great and looks super. All around nice job.
Thanks for the video!
27ace27
ooh, smooth.
igy569
As if this does not figure... the heater quit!!! Tesed fine before I assembled it, and can be seen in the videos, it worked fine as well. I steamed it agian today.. seemed to be running slow, and lacking power. I tweaked a few things, and tried to steam it again, it got hot, but not enough to make the engine run. Then I unplugged it, and checked continuity again... no continuity at all.
*sigh* I guess I will be ordering a new heater, and some eyelets!!
gd9704
igy569 wrote:
As if this does not figure... the heater quit!!! Tesed fine before I assembled it, and can be seen in the videos, it worked fine as well. I steamed it agian today.. seemed to be running slow, and lacking power. I tweaked a few things, and tried to steam it again, it got hot, but not enough to make the engine run. Then I unplugged it, and checked continuity again... no continuity at all.
*sigh* I guess I will be ordering a new heater, and some eyelets!!
RATS!
johnreid
I have only had one heater go bad on me and it was in a 5, I guess if they get to be over 40 years old before failing one cant really complain.
IndianaRog
Having had that happen a couple of times Owen requiring a disassemble of a newly painted and riveted up Jensen...I have taken to always replacing the heater regardless if it's working, just so I will never have to tear down that engine again in my lifetime!
I think water and oil dribbling down the boiler sides makes it's way between the layers of the blanket eventually causing corrosion and failure. I have seen them die on 20 year old engines and others that lasted nearly 70 years...I suppose dependent on how often fired up and how much "dribbleage" has occured with time.
I think dialing up the heat via a variac has to be better for them than simply plugging in getting the full wattage instantly. At least my lamps with dimmers seem to last much longer!
Rog
igy569
That heater was the same vintage as the engine, so it is about 60 years old. So it does not owe me anything I guess.. I just did not have any more money...
It will be fixed before too long.
mogogear
Owen
I am very late this this thread- but a splendid job on a beautiful engine!!!... Sorry about the heater...can't wait till the 5 is running-I am sure it will a great companion
robertosala
Owen,
Sorry, I was also late on this post. Been out of the country for a couple of weeks.
Let me tell you that you are one of the top restorers in this forum.
You did a splendid job on this one.
Just saw a video you posted on the Jensen 5. Another good job!
Sorry to hear about the heater failing. After 60 years, I think all it wanted was to go to rest for good. I believe that is not good to wake up something or someone after such a long dream so suddenly . The poor heater gave it all.
Congratulations good job!
Some day, when I grow up, will like to be that good!
no continuity at all.
. The poor heater gave it all.