Leaking SL2

raypfaff · Leaking SL2

Hopefully I'm not repeating a common thread. I tried to search for information about this, but I didn't see anything. I bought an SL2 about 7 months ago. I have been trying to break it in and I understand that there's a certain amount of leaking that will occur no matter what. It has improved greatly since I first got it and it will run for about 10 minutes, but I'd say at much as 1/3 of the water in the boiler leaks out around the valve block area. I really can't say exactly where other than in the general area. Is there anything I can try to improve this?

James

Hi and welcome to the forums!

Mamodman123 is our resident Loco expert so I'll let him answer this

No worries about repeating a common thread either mate. We're laid back here

Cheers!!

James

MTA

Hi Ray,
If the water is leaking out of the back of the reversing block, maybe the O rings aren't providing a good enough seal. Get some new ones or tighten the circular plate on the back all the way onto the block

Mamodman123

It won't leak out the back.

If you can viably see it leaking badly around the reverse block handle then proceed to the next step.

If you can see drips only then that is pretty normal, and does drip water from the smokebox where the steam has condensed.

If you get leaks on the reverse block then it may need a bit of 'lapping' and maybe an extra spring on there. Don't forget, you need to oil this point with steam oil.

Lapping, you will need to fully dismantle the loco and get the reverse block off. You simply dismantle the reverse block, take a square of glass and some wet and dry paper. Rub both the square block and handle together (the faces that meet eachother). This will make them dead flat.

Put it back together, if it still leaks try putting an extra spring on, did the trick for me.

Jut as a thought, it's not possible for the loco to 'loose' water from there as the feed pipe is under the steam dome. Meaning water can't run down it. It's more likely to leak from the sight glass or even the front of the boiler.

Just looks like it needs lapping and an extra spring. It's usual to see a few bubbles, but if it's more than that then you have a problem. Only steam coming from a Mamod loco should be seen on a chimney.

Hope this helps!

Welcome to the forums too!

MM

Chris

You get some leaking from priming and condensation. If you run it on blocks you might be able to see more easily where it is leaking from.

As MTA says it could be an o-ring. I have read about lapping (is that the right term) the reversing block, which involves taking it to bits and using fine sandpaper on a very flat surface (glass), to make sure all the bits are totally flat.

Other than that a good amount of steam oil helps.

Sure MM will have something to say when he comes on.

SillyBilly

Could always use lapping paste, mine pisses a water/steam/oil mix everyewhere, I realy must get down to my local workshop and sort it out.

IndianaRog

Welcome Ray...I see you got expert advice already, so we'll leave it at that. This forum is a fountain of such knowledge, glad you could join us...ask most anything, there will be someone who should be able to help you.

Cheers,
Roger

raypfaff

Thanks for the replies, I will try to take a better look underneath to see if I can figure out where/how it's exactly leaking. I have it up on blocks, but I need higher ones to be able to see.
If you guys don't mind another stupid

and related question, how exactly are you supposed to oil the block with steam oil? My instructions mention this, but I've not seen a visual example anywhere. I've been running the oil around the seam of the block. Is there something else I should be doing?
This is my first steam engine. I got into this because I have a couple of Wilesco steam plants plus HO and N layouts, so the progression was logical.

tmuir

One of the best documents you can get that will give you the most help is on the 16mm narrow gauge modellers website.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/16mmngm/

You have to join but its free.

Once you have joined click on files
Then scroll down untill you see Mamod Hints

then download MamodHB.PDF

This document is quiet hefty and goes through all the various things you can do to help Mamods run a lot better.

Also have a look here.
http://modelsteam.myfreeforum.org/about1251.html

This is from when I upgraded my Mamod SL2 and tells you what I did.

Finally a good way to get oil into the regulator is to unclip the piston rod off the wheels and turn it sideways which will expose the holes in the port face that the steam goes through. Put a couple of drops of steam oil in these holes and then do the same for the other cylinder.
Now connect the piston rods back onto the wheels and turn the wheels by hand for a few revolutions this will force steam oil into the regulator and pistons.

steamyjim

What wilescos do you have?

raypfaff

Thanks for all the information! I have the D10 and the D14. I also have a Mamod stream car (I'd have to look the model up), a Mamod tractor, and a German put-put style steam engine boat.

steamyjim

Cool, the D14s the overtype one isnt it?

The cars called the SA1

H2o vapour · OIL

Hi ,

ALL HAS BEEN SAID,

I HAVE BEEN AMAZED AT JUST HOW MUCH DIFFERENCE THE CORRECT STEAM OIL WILL MAKE, IT WILL ON SOME OCCAISIONS STOP ANOYING WEEPS FROM BETWEEN CYLINDER BLOCKS.

At STEAM TOYS IN ACTION, I PURCHAESD A SMALL BOTTLE FROM TONY GREEN , £1.50. AND IT'S REAL GOOD.

H20

raypfaff

Steamyjim "overtype" meaning that the flywheels and such are above rather than to the side? Yes.
Also have a ton of the tools to go with it. Got some of the stuff from my father's collection when he passed on and then went crazy on ebay for a while. If you know the cost of the items and you're patient you can get some pretty good deals, but I'm sure I'm preaching to the choir.

steamyjim

Yes thats it