| Archive for The Unofficial Mamod and Other Steam Forum The Original Unofficial Toy Steam Forum Established 2006 The biggest, most popular steam forum around! Accept NO imitations! We have a growing community of regular posting members who chat about all aspects of toy and model steam. |
| rough-shunter |
mamod rollerhi im new the names jordan leeds i am a engineering student at colledge i own a mamd roleneds the steampipes replacing and cn anyone tell me how to do thids ibelive its a nut and bolt one |
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| Mamodman123 |
Re: mamod roller
Buy the pipes from chassteam.com and solder them on 
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| Wallace |
And just take real care in not getting solder in the holes when soldering them to the faceplate (where cylinder is).
Best thing is to use something like a nail to align them up |
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| tmuir |
You will need a small blowtorch. Butane fired hobby torch will do.
Some soft solder, make sure you use fairly fine solder or you will end up with solder everywhere. A good quality flux for soft solder. After cutting and bending up the pipe work ensure everything is clean and shiney by using fine wet and dray paper on it until it is all cleaned where you want to solder. Align up all the pipe and clamp in place, fluc and then solder sparingly. If there is any other soldered parts near where you are working put a small wet cloth on them to stop them desoldering. If you have never soldered before practice on a bit of scrap pipe and copper sheet until you feel confident enough to do it on your roller. If you put some photos up of the problem we may be able to help you more. |
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| rough-shunter |
whats the best solder/ bRAZE | ||||
| tmuir |
soft solder tin / lead mix.
The best is fine solid solder but that is getting hard to find so you will have to probably settle for resin core soft solder. I use solder about 1mm in diameter. In the UK you might not even be able to get tin / lead solder anymore due to EU laws if so settle for what is labeled lead free soft solder. |
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| rough-shunter |
where cani gwe nutsand bolts that are suitable as s when itookit on work experiance to be repaired he replaced them with allan cap screws | ||||
| Mamodman123 |
MY dad has lead based solder which I use! Its a bit thicker than you'd like but does the job
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| SPOKESMAN |
English????? 
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| James |
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| MooseMan |
Hi rough-shunter, welcome to the group - do us a favour mate and try and write a bit more clearly, makes it easier for us to understand what you're after. There's a couple of guides to soldering on my website, see: http://www.freewebs.com/odilon/steamrestorationpages.htm |
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| rough-shunter |
in english /where can i get nuts and bolts that are suitable as when it ookit on work experiance to be repaired he replaced them with allan cap screws that look awful
also how can i polish/clean the rolls i thorght about skimming them in the lathe |
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| Mamodman123 |
Brasso, a cloth and some hard work! and they'll shine again
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| tmuir |
I cleaned my wheens with several grades of W & D and then finished them on a sticked rag buffing wheel with cutting compound | ||||
| Wallace |
For the nuts and bolts you will probably have to pull out the "allan cap screws" and see what diameter they are, as he may have drilled the holes bigger Foresteam on ebay sells the rivets, if it's a rivet type model. Otherwise try your local hardware store or fastener place for the right size. Good luck with it. Oh, and if you can, try put some pics up, as people here might be able to help a bit more in regard to fixing it. Cheers P.S. How to post is in the Forum Frequently asked questions in the General area |
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| rough-shunter |
photos are now on photo buckethttp://s159.photobucket.com/albums/t157/rough-shunter/ | ||||
| tmuir |
It looks athis is one of the older boilers where the end is soldered on rather than actually being part of the tube which means it can be worked on much easier.
Was the boiler held in on the front by screws or rivets? The two holes on the back of the boiler are meant for fixing it to the firebox but yours have been soldered over. If its the early type there should be bolts there or if it is the later type blind copper rivets are used to fix the boiler in the firebox. Here is a link to mine I restored and you can see the nut and bolts fixing the boiler into the firebox. http://modelsteam.myfreeforum.org/about1505.html |
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| rough-shunter |
it was bolted on but the bolts corroded and are now blanced off because of v this bd thats the way its staying as the boiler was pressure tested two years ago after the bolt holes where blaknced off | ||||
| tmuir |
With the holes blanked off you will need to find another way to fasten the boiler to the firebox as they are the only thing that holds it in place. | ||||
| Mamodman123 |
Why not drill the holes again? | ||||
| rough-shunter |
i could drill them then tap them out so that its threaded | ||||
| rough-shunter |
i have brassoed allthe bright where /brass | ||||
| Wallace |
I think the best thing to do in regard to getting it all back to normal, is re-drill and tap those holes if you have the facilities, then as mentioned earlier, find a place that sells appropriate fastners to get it all together.
I see it's quite an early model, judging by the conrod. So would be great to get it going again. Good luck |
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| rough-shunter |
made mess of the paint on thew fly wheel and crank what colour isit in terms of car spray paint | ||||
| tmuir |
Watch out using car spray paint as most of it is acrylic as I learned the hard way, acrylic doesnt stand up to heat nearly as well as enamel. | ||||
| Mamodman123 |
Radiant red (Ford) that should be ok! doesn't get too hot on the flywheel! |
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| Wallace |
Any enamel that matches it closely would be fine to use.
As Tmuir said, avoid acrylic paint |
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| rough-shunter |
i have some tamia dull read paint that im using
the firebox has been patched and built up using weld as the plate work had fateuged and wasted |
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| SPOKESMAN |
We need some pics here RS! 
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| rough-shunter |
moe pics when i get th firebox back possibly tonight | ||||
| rough-shunter |
have removed the blanking holes from the boiler wan was plugged with a rivit and the other with a bit ofbrass thee riviet hole has been driiled outso may have to drill it out and turn a bRASS BUSH THAT IS TAPPED OUT TO THE ROGHT DIAMETER | ||||
| Mamodman123 |
So you will make some brass threads to go into the larger holes? Then taken brass screws and screw them in? it should work pretty well. Just let us know how you get on
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| rough-shunter |
yes it will besort of top hat shaped so that a 1mm flange is showing on the outside | ||||
| rough-shunter |
have repaired the boiler as stated with two bushes and two 4ba screws | ||||
| Mamodman123 |
That should hold it into the firebox now! |
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| rough-shunter |
photos!boiler repairshttp://s159.photobucket.com/album...rent=boilerrepairedwithbushes.jpg | ||||
| SPOKESMAN |
Make sure you use copper pop rivets. | ||||
| rough-shunter |
WHAT FOR | ||||
| SPOKESMAN |
The boiler pop rivetted to the firebox. |
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| rough-shunter |
going to screw it to the firebox with brass screws | ||||
| Mamodman123 |
He can't, threads have been put in now! I suppose this has been done because it leaked? hence why rivets wouldn't seal it I guess 
Brass screws should do it! |
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| rough-shunter |
it origanaly was boltes on but the nuts /bolts wgererusted off abnd where floting around the boiler hence thsis why it is now like it is all be it the engine will be 2 mm longer because of theflange on the bushes |