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| Atticman |
Mamod SE3 waterlevel plug versionWith apologies to Ace and DavidCurtis who missed out on this.Originally this had a waterlevel plug but at some point its been vandalised. 
It was I think made in 1978 or so, one of the last before becoming the SP5, with a lot of changes From the front the box kept the same sticker for many years See this 
BUT on the rear sticker 
The only things needed is a clean up, POSSIBLY new red paint, new steam pipe from the regulator to the branch. And of course the front endcap needs a good sort out
For the firebox i will try my new trick- stove Apart from the endcap the decal remains here 
Note the hole where the solid fuel burner slots in- 2 holes cut in the firebox at the top to accommodate this 
Overall views 
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| Stilldrillin |
Tom,
I can`t believe the state that is in!!!!! 
"Am fillin up ere"...
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| Atticman |
Worst thing about it David is its only had 30 years to get like that  
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| johnreid |
I never had any problems with the plug type, I have owned a few with sightglasses that were difficult to keep from leaking, but the proper rivets and gaskets made a big difference on them, one I used to own leaked around the pop rivet almost like the rivet was loose, replaced the rivet and problem solved.
Were the bushes poorly soldered on the plug ones that leaked? I am only asking as I want to learn. |
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| Ross |
Yikes!
thats lived a life of abuse! |
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| Minor1PJG |
It's missing a boiler band, but it will make a fun resto 
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| Bugsy |
Imagine what it will look like in a week or two! 
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| igy569 |
Poor thing... Its amazing what some people do to these things.... | ||||
| Les |
Let's hope it looks worse than what it really is, good luck with it. 
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| Sandman |
I've got faith in you Tom.
It will come up fine.
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| 27ace27 |
wow, would have been a heck of a job for me, but I'm sure you'll do fine!
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| xlchainsaw |
i think i would be sending it to david so he can use the frames and pistons ect for a six cylinder!! unless you have a source of new endcaps.  if you do please post as there are quite few members after new se3 endcaps.
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| madeinenglang |
I think that I know some one can make them where I used to work
just need an end cap and see if they will do it if possible how many end caps are people wanting and I will ask |
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| Wallace |
Tom that will be a great project. Looking forward to seeing the results. 
For those asking about making endcaps, there are 2 threads http://modelsteam.myfreeforum.org/about15818.html http://modelsteam.myfreeforum.org/about15817.html |
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| tmuir |
Yrh gods, thats in worse condition than my se3 was when I received it.
I'm guessing you will be learning the art of brass bashing to make a new end cap. 
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| Atticman |
Some progress on this one
Actually I have been really lucky here. After heating a load of solder came out, the disc fell off and look whats underneath (surround is an old damp sock )
Scraped off excess solder 
The offending brass sheet
Solder
Now half is looking better cleaned with wet and dry 1000 grade 
Finally 
Looks like the rivets or at least the upper one needs drilling out. Luckily the engine is complete bar the water guage bits- I think this is interchangable with the SP range ones, so they are easy to source
http://www.forest-classics.co.uk/sghtglskit.htm |
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| johnreid |
So, someone decided to go through all the trouble to solder on that brass [late just because they didnt know how to pop rivet!
Sheesh what an idiot |
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| Roly Williams |
Well I'll be ...
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| Sandman |
Well, strap me to an anthill and smother me in honey.
Who'd have believed that.
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| Ross |
4.99 for a pop riveter and some rivets
thats mad!
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| Les |
I am glad it turned out to be a relatively easy fix.
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| Minor1PJG |
That's great news. A new sight glass and shiny rivets will look very nice there. So a very late SE3. This is coming along now
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| 27ace27 |
you lucky dog you! was there de-zincification on the boiler, or was that the cover sheet?
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| tmuir |
Now thats lucky.
I was sure you were going to need a new endcap. Got to say though I'm not a fan of those site glasses though. |
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| Burnmafingers |
Nice to see that it came good in the end. | ||||
| erikl |
That's great! I thought this engine was a bit too far gone to restore, but this makes it a whole different story! With a proper drill bit you can easily get that last piece of rivet out. | ||||
| toxx |
... gee, I like how yer bringing this old beauty back to life. Darn good job, hut ab!
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| Roly Williams |
Hey Tom - good to see you're still around. I've missed your sense of humour lately
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| johnreid |
I sure have missed Toxx too, so very glad to see you back. | ||||
| toxx |
... hey! I missed you guys, too. It's been some time.
Ah, life.
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| Sandman |
Hi Tom.
Great to see you back mate. In fact, it's just made my day.
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| Stilldrillin |
Hey Tom!!!!!
Was wondering about you....... It`s great to see you are still around!
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| toxx |
... thanks, mates! This means a lot to me.
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| Mamodman123 |
No body told me a forum legend had returned
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| Atticman |
Have made a bit more progress here. Desoldered the steam pipe
This doesnt need desoldering on SE3s usually, but this needs replacing. For some reason theres been a larger bore pipe soldered in over the original ends 
The boiler carbon is the worst Ive seen for a while 
Scraped the loose crud off with some wood 
Steam pipe 
Other end 
Then I set to cleaning. With Cellulose thinners and then white spirit quite a bit came off 
But a wire wool 0000 soaked in white spirit got the crud off well. 
Next step really is to reset in a new piece of 1/8th pipe. |
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| Wallace |
Coming along nicely
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| Les |
That one had been well run over the years, no wonder it is not in the best of conditions.
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| Atticman |
Have made bit of progress here. Unsoldered the steampipe, as per thread elsewhere.
Ive cleaned a fair bit of oily stuff off. The base is really a bit of a mess, quite a lot of paint loss, though the worst is in the firebox, So I will strip off the paint, Not what I was hoping or 
The green is probably OK, and I will most likely order some eyelets/ tubular rivets for a forum member 
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| 27ace27 |
good to see some more progress on this one!
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| Atticman |
Thanks, my restos are usually slow, but get there in the end 
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| mogogear |
Wow Tom-
I missed the beginning of this -- you have overcome some obstacles for sure...Glad to see you have not shelved it !! |
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| Les |
It is making good progress, Mamodparts sell the hollow rivets.
http://www.mamodparts.com/spares-Miscellaneous.asp?part_id=100263 |
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| Atticman |
Thanks Les, Ive emailed him- mainly wondering how to fix them back on
Theres a few tools to do it on ebay, but their rech is about OK for shoes and clothing 
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| Roly Williams |
You have a good point there. There are eyelet tools that come in two parts, one you hold in a vice, the other in your hand and hit with a hammer. Unfortunately, you don't see them very often. |
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| Atticman |
I think I may by a clothes one and dismantle it
Oddly two or 3 of the rivts have rough spikes coming up from the eyelets- you may just spot them in this pc
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| steamcollector |
Hi
I did email Atticman yesterday about fitting these but I don't have an easy answer.
So I will work on this in the coming week and try to make something that will do the job. There are 2 possibilities. 1. A 2 part snap device as Roly suggests - I have already done some work on that but haven't got it quite right. 2. A novel solution. Fit a nail through the eyelet and use a pop rivet gun to do the compressing. No idea if it will work but if it does that would be an easy solution. Open to other suggestions as well. But in the meantime leave me with it and I will try to come up with a sensible answer. John Reid made a very good job of eylet fitting on one of his models. Can't find the thread at the moment. Regards Will info@mamodparts.com |
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| johnreid |
I use a Phillips head screwdriver, I strike the back side with the screwdriver causing a four way split then use a blunt tool and strike it again to firm it up. This works to make an exact copy of how the eyelets look on a Jensen Firebox. However the two piece tool is how a Factory or Model Shop would do it, but tools are not an expense item for them, they already have them. | ||||
| Atticman |
Im sure this can be overcome- its one of the few really difficult bits currenltly on mamods to put right. I dont really like replacing them with bolts or pop rivets.
By the way- credit to Mamodparts- there cant be many suppliers who reply to emails at 11 pm- what great service
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| Roly Williams |
I'll be interested to know if this works. I suspect it will just flatten the eyelet, which will look wrong and may weaken it as well. It will be a great help if it does work
The proper tools have special shaped anvils that form the proper shape on the top and preserve the shape on the bottom. |
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| steamcollector |
Interesting that Roly,
So if I could machine a 'specially shaped' insert/fitting for the pop rivet gun which would preserve the shape of the top part I might stand a better chance. Oh I know. Some sort of shaped washer to fit between the end of the rivet gun and and the hollow rivet. Let me have a go this week and I'll report back here. It would be nice to come up with something that doesn't cost anything (or very little anyway) Will |
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| Stilldrillin |
Nice thinking Will!
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| Les |
He does say "Fitting them is a little more tricky but worth the effort".
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