meths fired Jensen

8_10 Brass Cleaner · meths fired Jensen

I had a go steaming up my Jensen 76 the other day, being solid fule fired I used some Mamod blocks cut in half.

The boiler steamed ok, however I had forgotten the vile stench those perishing blocks give off.

Has anybody tried a meths burner, I was thinking along the lines of a vapourising burner, perhaps even the 15x15x75mm ones forest steam advertise for wilescos.

Has anybody any other ideas, But I dont want to hack my engine about.

steamyjim

Someone on here used a bowman burner in a wilesco i think maybe you could use something like that on the Jensen

flywheel61

Both James & Steamyman have meths burners for thier Jensens, I think it's a model G8 sold by Forest Classics. Not sure wehether you have to take out the bit that the tablet tray slides into or not. I suggest you PM one of them. I have to get one too for my Wilesco & my Jensen 75.

I've also got a spare each of metho burners for MM1 MM2 & SE1/2 and SE3 burners so I'll try them first.

Cheers

Chris

James

I use meths in my #75

IndianaRog

James, what sized meths burner (from Forest Classics) would fit the Jensen 60/76 and the larger Jensen 75???

James

Not got a clue Rog

steamyman

flywheel61

, I was pretty close, thanks Clinton. Does this burner have the slide in it to limit the amout of flame. As soon as I do the tests with the Mamod burners I'll post in this thread again.

Cheers

Chris

steamyman

8_10 Brass Cleaner

Chris[/quote]

Chris,all,

It's a g9 model I have from FC, & yes u do need to remove the tablet tray first.

[/quote]

How about on the metal based Jensens, like my 76 or 65?. Perhaps I should measure the distance between the sliders. That burner is 15mm wide is it not?

steamyman

Wallace

Steamyman, where abouts are the G9 burners listed on the Forest website?

I can only find Bix and X type burners listed for the part numbers

steamyman

Wallace

Thanks for that mate

Cranko

You wont do any harm to a Jensen

8_10 Brass Cleaner

IndianaRog

Thanks BC...I did order one of FC's burners to try it out on two of my Wilescos...works really nicely on my Wilesco roller and Wilesco vertical, though burn time is shorter than I wish. I think to fit them in the slot the burner maker shrinks the volume a bit too much. Some experimentation is on tap !!!

Mister Occlusion

I've been trying to find some brass stock so I could replicate those and perhaps make them longer, giving them a bit more reserve (ought to try ebay I suppose).

I'm not sure what they plug the ends with. It seems to be some sort of material like epoxy putty or something, as it's not a brass plate...

My burner never did work in my roller. I think the heat distorts something in the powertrain causing it to bind

IndianaRog

Mr. O...I have given thought to using some sort of extruded aluminum tubing like you would find in the frame of some folding lawn chairs (like the one I tossed out last year).

Like you however, I am not sure what could be used to plug the ends, I'm afraid meths would degrade any epoxy and if it didn't the heat would. Wish I knew how to weld such stuff!!!

flywheel61

There's a brand of hobby brass available over here, including flat sheets, called J & S. It's made in Chicago and a sheet big enough to make a burner is AUD$6.50 for a 4" x 10" sheet .016" thick.

The contact no is 773-586-8503, address 6917 W. 59th St. Chicago Il.60638.

Hope this helps.

Cheers

Chris

IndianaRog

Chris, I believe it's K&S...at least there is a brand of brass hobby material by those initials. They sell all manner of sheets, tubes, solid etc. Our new member CJW also resells K&S items in smaller quantities.

I have used K&S stuff for several years and it is first class stuff.

cheers,
Rog

Mister Occlusion

..they just don't seem to make really large stuff

I've looked in hardware and surplus stores where they have aluminum and steel channel, but none of it it the right size, plus it's not as easy to work with as brass. I suppose one could rig up something in a vice and bend sheet stock, but I would rather not have yet another soldered seam to worry about.

I considered using copper tubing, but you've instantly got less volume to work with as well as having a less stable platform that is going to be even more sensitive to being overfilled.

flywheel61

Rog wrote

IndianaRog

One good source of LARGE sheet brass commonly available in the US is a "kick panel" meant for the lower face of a house door. They are about 8 inches tall and 30 inches wide...thicker than K&S stuff as well.

I see them for sale in Lowes, Home Depot and Ace hardware stores. Of course you would have to figure out how to bend into a trough of sorts and would have two short corner seams to solder on each end, but perhaps if a properly cut piece were hammered around a solid steel bar used as a form...it would not be too difficult. Of course then you have to find a solid steel bar of the right size.

Ahhhh, what we do for our hobbies!!!

Wallace

Thanks for all that guys.

I have got the K&S stuff before, and made a SE3 burner.

I think I will do the same for the Jensen. But this time will use an oxy for the silver soldering. So much easier

Cranko

I think Brass is the way to go, easy to work and silversolder. I get mine from the recycler

flywheel61

I never though of that as a resource, I must get busy and find ouit who's got what.

BTW, I used a short SE3 burner in my Jensen 75 this afternoon and it went like the clappers for 12 minutes much better than the esbits (at 7 minutes) and no nasty smell either.

Cheers

Chris

Wallace

Great to hear it ran longer

Graham-Jilly

Im going to have a go at making a burner for our jensens when i find time will do a thread on it if its succesful

Mister Occlusion

One question: Where do you buy silver solder anyway? I can't seem to find it anywhere.

....I suppose I could try *whimper* ebay...

Wallace

tmuir

[quote="Mister Occlusion"]One question: Where do you buy silver solder anyway? I can't seem to find it anywhere.

Why do you want silver solder?
I silver soldered my burners but that was more just for practice for when I finally get round to making bigger stuff, soft solder is fine.

Just remember if you do want to silver solder you need a hot flame, a butane torch will not be enough, for silver solder to flow you need to heat the whole object to a dull red first then apply solder, and don't forget to buy the correct fluc for it.
A decent hardware or plumbers hop should sell it.
Then you have the choice of 2%, 10%, 20% and I think even 50% silver solder.

IndianaRog

Mr. O...I have tried silver solder (yes, bought off eBay along with the liquid flux it requires)...but as Tony points out, you have to heat the item being soldered to such high temps that I have deformed boilers doing it.

If you are making any sort of burner, you can get by with the simple plumbers solder that melts about 450 deg. F...my meths fired Jensen 25 burner was made with nothing but that and since the flame (heat) rises above it, the solder joints have been fine, no damage, no leaking.

Rog

Graham-Jilly

I get it from welding supplies store as I use 48%