| Archive for The Unofficial Mamod and Other Steam Forum The Original Unofficial Toy Steam Forum Established 2006 The biggest, most popular global steam forum around! Accept NO imitations! We have a growing community of regular posting members who chat about all aspects of toy and model steam. |
| gd9704 |
My first ever steam engine. (Now looking quite attractive!)I couldn't resist making a lowball offer on this poor Jensen 65 on Ebay. The seller took my offer and it arrived in all it's filthy glory today! (Bonus metal shaper in the background)
That's just masking tape on the steam line, not a repair job! 
Did someone run a die over the exhaust port to thread it? 
Upon inspection, the piston was frozen in the cylinder, the flywheel spun freely on it's axle, and the horrid sound off metal grinding on metal was a bit troubling. After a bit of oil things loosened up and everything seems to be moving okay. I've got a fuel tray, smoke stack and a few other odds and ends on order to hopefully get this poor neglected engine looking and running good again. I can't wait to clean this poor thing up and get steamin!!! Any helpful hints for a new steamer would be greatly appreciated. |
||||||
| redryder |
You can start by giving it a good bath.
That's right, hot water, soap and an old brush or old face cloth. Don't use anything abrasive unless needed later on. Most of that crud will come right off. To clean the paint extra good after the bath, you can work out some embedded stains using 0000 steel wool and GO-JO original hand cleaner (the original smooth stuff). If you go this route, the paint can soften a bit so let it re harden for a day or 2 after. To polish the boiler, I use Maas. It can be bought at Walmart and some Ace Hardware stores, on ebay, or www.massinc.com Maas has a bit of ultra fine jewelers rouge in it. Simichrome is similar (or identical) but cost morec and is less readily available. WD-40 can also be used as a cleaner but don't depend on it for lubrication. Denatured alcohol is a powerful solvent cleaner and will remove paint if left on too long. (It's better on the plated metal) I am looking forward to seeing your results ! Gil |
||||||
| Bugsy |
I think igy569 recently restored one of these, he would be a good source of info. Pretty helpful sort of bloke too. 
|
||||||
| robertosala |
If I were you...
I would buy a new chimney, remove the threads on the exhaust. Remove all rivets to take appart the engine and paint the base. Remove all paint from firebox. Will also replace all gaskets including the one on the port hole. Rob |
||||||
| IndianaRog |
Greg,
Gil pretty much covered it...most of that grundge will come off with some work and you will be amazed how much better it looks after the fact. Only buggered up bit is that effort to thread the exhaust tube...I would take a Dremel myself and cut off the threaded bit...OR slip a piece of polished brass tubing over it for a snug fit if you want to retain the original length. Welcome to the world of restoration! Roger |
||||||
| johnreid |
Just give it a good cleaning, I wouildnt worry about taking it apart untill you see what it looks like under the dirt. I bet it isnt tha bad looking.
I used Automotive finish restorer on the base then a good Car Wax, Ckean the firebox with a soft brush of the teeth variety and then Maas or Semichrome on the boiler, do not have Maas or Semichrome? Any Brass Polish will work in a pinch. I bet it cleans up nicely. |
||||||
| gd9704 |
Thanks everybody for the helpful tips.
A bath will be my first order of business tomorrow. I didn't notice the missing handle on the whistle during the auction.....I'm sure there will be other things I'll "need" (like steam oil) before all is said and done..... And so it begins!!! 
|
||||||
| 27ace27 |
watch the decal! 
|
||||||
| redryder |
Wash the decal ! It's a sticker not a traditional decal. |
||||||
| 27ace27 |
be careful with the sticker! Better? 
|
||||||
| metalhead100 |
Looks like a great start at a restoration!
Winter is on its way....grab some tools and bring her back to life! Seems all the major "guts" are in place! Minus the items you mentioned. Welcome to the club! Jim |
||||||
| igy569 |
Just give it a good clean and polish. I would take off only parts that unbolt easily. Clean it as best you can, then decide how far you want to go with it. Sometimes they are nice a bit grungy too. That has a nice copper fire box. No pink. Not to mention a nice red tagged one. I got my 65 in like new condition, now it is grungy and well used.
I think the level of restoration you take is all subjective. Take it as far as you want. I suspect you could tun it the way it is if you wanted too (although I could not figure why...) 
|
||||||
| Les |
I would steam it first to see if it runs, then give it a good clean. | ||||||
| H2o vapour |
Hello,
There isn't alot wrong with that, Steam it and take it from there, Well done and good luck with it H2o |
||||||
| Sandman |
To be honest, that machine is exactly what a lot of us simply love.
There is a great deal of satisfaction in seeing the results of a bit of TLC turning a sorry looking collection of rusty parts into a fine engine. These engines tend to be the most loved in our collections.
|
||||||
| Steve_S |
Sandy is exactly right. And this one will be a cracker... just needs a good clean! | ||||||
| gd9704 |
Okay, she got a bath and polish today.
Some after pics: 
There were a few spots of rust under all that grime, but not too bad. 
I took Rog's advice and lopped off those nasty threads on the exhaust pipe with my Dremel cut-off wheel. Much better! 
So, without taking anything apart, this is about as good as she's going to look. If my goodies from Dorita arrive in today's mail (mainly a burner tray) I'll try and steam her up...... |
||||||
| Bugsy |
Looks like a bought one! 
Wish some of my engines looked that good. |
||||||
| Sandman |
Excellent. Just what I said.
Magic engine.
|
||||||
| johnreid |
IT would have been a crime to repaint that base, it looks great! | ||||||
| gd9704 |
Well, it runs! Not great, but it runs.....
Concerns: Leaks! The sight glass doesn't leak, but darn-near everything else does! Both the whistle and safety valve need new gaskets for sure. The regulator (edited--learning proper terms!) leaks some (which seems pretty common.) My main concern is that there is a leak between the cylinder and the steam chest (?) It looks like this engine hasn't been run in a long time, I'm wondering if it might leak less after a few steamings?? Anyway, I'm very happy with my new toy and appreciate all the help the members here have offered..... |
||||||
| johnreid |
Gaskets are an easy fix, the regulator is going to drip whatever you do, the cylinder might need soldering, but if it isnt bad I might suggest you live with it for a while. | ||||||
| redryder |
I knew that engine would clean up nicely !!!
Gil |
||||||
| barry1946 |
Basically it's a sound engine. Just what you need to get the resto bug! Good buy. | ||||||
| barry1946 |
Oops I missed the later post. 
Lets just say - "I told you so"
Well done.
|
||||||
| redryder |
Did you follow the directions , including proper lubrication of the cylinder with steam cylinder oil before operating?
If you don't have directions, Click HERE : http://www.jensensteamengines.com/dry-fuel-instructions.htm Gil |
||||||
| gd9704 |
I did read the directions....proper steam oil is one of the things I'm watching the mail for...so I substituted some 90w as a stop-gap measure. (I know, not ideal, but the closest thing I had on hand) 2nd steam report: Ran better--this time the sight glass DID leak, but the steam chest-cylinder junction leaked hardly at all. (I'll take that trade any day of the week!) It ran much better the 2nd time! Actually got a good bit of speed this time around. And the slow speed operation is impressive as well......She's a runner for sure!
I'm sure with some fresh gaskets and a supply of steam oil, she will run beautifully! |
||||||
| Les |
That scrubbed up well, and with a few new gaskets it will be as right as rain.
|
||||||
| redryder |
ARE WE HAVING FUN YET ?????
Gil |
||||||
| gd9704 |
I'm already running out of Esbit.....what does that tell you????
The more I run it, the better it runs! It's addictive!!!!! 
|
||||||
| SlideValve |
I bet that shortened exhaust gives it a unique sound, like straight headers on a car, might even slightly improve performance a little
|
||||||
| metalhead100 |
Amazing .....
Those Jensens always seem to clean up so well..... Ya might try to snug the retention ring on the sight glass.... Just a touch.... The kit Jensen I built took a few re snuggings after a few runs then she stopped leaking for good... Congrats on becoming a Operating Engineer ! Hide your wallet...... Jim |
||||||
| johnreid |
The sightglass tool is just a piece of metal, I can measure later if you wish, On several of my Jensens I had to snug the sightglass ring while the engine was building pressure, not much, but I believe that the boiler must expand quicker than the sightglass ring and thus might leak a minor amount unless snugged. | ||||||
| IndianaRog |
Hey Greg....nice cleanup there! If your steam chest/cylinder junction continues to leak, there are two options:
1) resolder it with torch and plumbers solder 2) seal the seam with CA glue (medium consistency) The CA option is the easiest and usually seals small leaks. Just let the engine run for a half boiler full WITHOUT adding any oil thru the exhaust or on the piston rod...you want the steam to kind of drive out any oil before attempting to CA glue it. Then after you shut it down but while still hot, run a bead of CA glue along the offending seam (top and bottom if both). Do it outdoors or under kitchen stove ventilation fan, CA on hot metal stinks horribly. When first application dries, do a second immediately. Let it sit til it cools and fire it up again WITHOUT oil one more time...if it's sealed, you can either end the run or oil it then. If it's still seeping, CA it again. Try to keep CA in just the seam, not all around it or it's a mess to clean off. IF after CA treatment (well, 2 treatments), if it still leaks, it must be soldered which can still be done after CA...the torch will burn off the CA. Otherwise, the gaskets enroute from Jensen will seal everything else by moveable surfaces in whistle and steam regulator valves. Those can be made to leak less by squirting a bit of steam oil in the juncture of the rotating and fixed surfaces while holding spring pressure in. I do this on every Jensen valve I have with each run, just part of get ready and it generally stops 99% of any leakage. Rog |
||||||
| gd9704 |
Thanks, Rog. The more I run the engine, the less the steam chest to cylinder junction leaks--the last run it had diminished to a tiny bubbling--and that only at full throttle. I have a torch and plumbers solder, but have little experience with it...... I'm pretty handy with the CA glue, I use it at work almost daily. If the leak worsens, I may just give that a try. I'm really very happy with the 65! I've steamed it up 4 times already! Time to buy stock in Esbit or perhaps hock the family jewels to buy Gil's 20G.
|
||||||
| johnreid |
Dont know about hocking the family jewels, but selling a Kidney has entered my mind when I see an engine like the 20G
|
||||||
| Burnmafingers |
You answered that yourself, you have already succumbed to the addiction of steam! Great job on the clean up, looks a treat! |
||||||
| redryder |
You have been severely bit by the steam bug !!!!!!!!!
No turning back now. This is your first engine and I can assure you it's not your last. Gil |
||||||
| gd9704 |
Okay, just a few more pictures, if I may....
I had some time today to play with the 65. I got my metal polish out and some 000 steel wool and went to work on the firebox, being careful to not get too carried away. I'm very pleased with the results--the firebox has a nice aged copper look. For effect, here's a reminder of what I started with: 
And now, a finished engine (still missing a whistle handle) on a nicer surface (don't tell my wife I used her dining room table for this!!) 
The only thing that bugs me now is that the chimney and support are a lighter shade of copper.....is there any trick to aging these surfaces? |
||||||
| BK |
Very well done, it came up nicely.
Look towards making a meths burner for it in the future, a lot cheaper then esbits. |
||||||
| 27ace27 |
very nice! 
|
||||||
| johnreid |
That really turned out nice! It doesnt look like the same machine, and no Sprayy cans were injured | ||||||
| gd9704 |
Thanks, BK. I've been doing a bit of research in the meths burner. I need to practice my soldering skills, I think! 
|
||||||
| redryder |
Not sure why you want to age it.
That one is meant to be clean and you got it looking great. If you get a brass one, the aging is another thing entirely. If you want old looking paint, look at some of Kevin Klein's pieces. He has gotten really good at refinishing for age and realisim. Gil Here is an example of Kevin's work. (the wagons are new) 
|
||||||
| redryder |
|
||||||
| gd9704 |
Gil, In person, the chimney and chimney support look brighter than the firebox. I can live with it for sure. If there was a way to darken them up some, I'd be interested in it.... Perhaps I should just let them age naturally. Greg |
||||||
| johnreid |
Time has a way of doing that better than we can. |
||||||
| BK |
Greg, the chimney and smoke box are different, because they haven't had the heat that the firebox has had, plus the fact no one has made a dremel wire brush slim enough to get between the bricks on the fire box. It's only the fact that the bricks are outlined on the firebox (good look in my book) that makes the difference.
|
||||||
| Wallace |
That's a great transformation | ||||||
| Les |
It scrubbed up well, are you sure that is the same engine??
|
||||||
| Bugsy |
That looks so good!!!
Some way or another I must get me a Jensen!!!
Hope you're following this thread, Igy! |
||||||
| Timonade |
Ah! Greg! That engine is looking marvelous!
I'm absolutely green with envy. |
||||||
| robertosala |
Good job my friend. That engine clean up well.
I thought it had a rusted base. It is really a nice piece you got there! Rob |