Cam
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My newly restored MM1my 1st restoration!!!
IT DOESNT WORK!!! 
but i think the connection between the cylinder block and the steam pipe isn't flush...
when i bought it it was almost solidly black everywhere, with little paint where there should be...Thankfully the original mamod decals were still there however blackened they may be..
these are just after i tried to run it
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Wallace
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Nice engine Cam.
Is the engine showing any signs of running under steam.
The steam pipe could be blocked, or a more common problem is overfilling the boiler with water.
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Cam
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hmmm maybe blocked pipe but if i push the piston away from it plenty of steam is released....maybe i should get out the old oilstone and make sure there is a flat surface
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Wallace
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I'll leave explaining lapping the surfaces up to those who have done it before, but I think fine emery paper and a flat surface is needed.
A oil stone could be too harsh.
Doesn't sound like a blocked pipe.
If everything is moving freely, then can't see why it shouldn't run.
Only fill the boiler to about 2/3 to 3/4 full (just keep an eye on things boiler doesn't run dry).
Good luck with it 
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Cam
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thanks for that, i'll try it out tomorrow and report back
cam
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tmuir
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If steam is coming out when you push the cylinder away but the engine won't run check the hole into the clyinder isn't gummed up with old oil and that the piston isn't binding in the cylinder.
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oldstuff
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Also, try adjusting tension on the spring...sometimes its something simple like this.
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Atticman
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I assume youve oiled the piston as well that often is the cause of non runners sometimes ones Ive bought have rusted up pistons 
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johnreid
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I love those that have Mamod cast into the Crank Eccentrics, one feature that makes yours stand out.
I am sure that you will get it sorted out, I had one that needed to be flattened on the Cylinder block, I blackened it with a Sharpie and then laid a piece of 800 grit Wet and Dry on a piece of plate glass and worked it in a figure 8 on the W&D, I then looked at the cylinder block and noted how much of the Sharpie markings were removed and could tell that it was flat.
Make sense? Remember it might not have to be perfect, and a little does a lot so keep trying it as you work, no use sanding it beyond what is absolutely necessary.
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IndianaRog
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In your third picture it looks like the cylinder is separating from the block of brass it is supposed to be soldered to. If this is the case, your steam could be escaping thru that seam and not getting to the piston.
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Cam
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yeah, i'll W&D it, if it doesnt work i'll re-solder it...thanks guys
cam
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toxx
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| cam-steaman wrote: | yeah, i'll W&D it, if it doesnt work i'll re-solder it...thanks guys
cam |
... did you get it to run yet?
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Minor1PJG
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I did also think that your spring looks very compressed and may be too tight. If you just put a light oil in the cylinder and on the port faces can you spin the engine by hand (without it being under steam)? If so it's probably not too tight
Good luck with this. I notice on yours the steam pipe goes to the top hole on the engine frame therefore it will run 'backwards'.
I hope you get it running soon. I'm a big fan of the little MM1
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Cam
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Sorry i havent replied (to anything for that matter)
the engine works and works well....but since that run the Flywheel's thread has disintegrated so the screw no longer hold it onto the shaft....thus the engine will no longer run  any ideas anyone>?
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Minor1PJG
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Maybe try gluing the flywheel into the crank shaft.
Most of the MM1's I have seen have the flywheel attached with glue as standard from the factory. It tends to be only the larger engines that have the flywheel attached with a grub screw.
Good luck
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toxx
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| cam-steaman wrote: | Sorry i havent replied (to anything for that matter)
the engine works and works well....but since that run the Flywheel's thread has disintegrated so the screw no longer hold it onto the shaft....thus the engine will no longer run any ideas anyone>? |
... I replaced the tiny fly wheel with a larger one. A aluminium tube was inserted over the thread, the big fly wheel is fastened via its little screw on the hub. Works like a charm:
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Atticman
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A small blob of supaglue into the flywheel then put it back into the right place and it should be fine.
Happened to my larger flywheel MM2 and now works a treat with supaglue
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Cam
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how well does your MM1 work with the huge flywheel toxx?
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toxx
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| cam-steaman wrote: | | how well does your MM1 work with the huge flywheel toxx? |
... it works great! There's no difference in speed - and due to the higher mass (it weighs about x3), it doesn't suddenly stop when pressure collapses, but keeps on going gradually until it stops. Oh, by the way: It's the flywheel of my SE3, which I also replaced with a larger one.
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Cam
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i love SE3's...thats next on my purchase list, once i can find one!! How did you manage to fit a larger wheel to a SE3? did you have to cut a whole in the base?
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