Mamodman123
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My SE2 clean up/restorationOK, I've been busy for a few weeks cleaning up this engine I purchased about a month ago. It's been slow going because i've been busy with other projects (not Mamod related ones). I believe it to be a 1946 SE2, however it has lots of earlier distincive features such as, the earlier Mamod decal, the earlier burner, and a thinner copper boiler strap that doesn't go around the union nut thread.
This is the exact state I bought the engine in:
As you can see, very dusty/dirty needed a damn good clean. The darker points around the threads is oil/WD40 to free them all up. They were quite loose anyway. However it helps them a long a bit more 
the countershaft and frames
Front of the engine.
Work started. The first thing I did was strip the whole engine down as far as it would go. All brass turned parts when into the vinegar and salt solution to loosen all the dirt and grime. Some of the duster things were washing in warm water and washing up liquid in a bowl. While they were soaking I started to clean the base.
As you can see, very very dusty and dirty. The plan of action was these simple steps:
filled up a bowl full of warm water and washing up liquid. Carefully with a very soft cloth, wiped the base down of all dirt/grime and stains. It's imperrative to work around the decal as they are pretty weak. So avoid rubbing of any kind on the decals. Once all dirt was removed. I rinsed the base off under come warm water and left to drip dry.
Once the base was dry, I proceded with a good car wax/polish. Take a clean cloth, again working around the decal, cover the whole base and wait for it to haze over. Then take another clean cloth and buff off to a high lusture/finish. Do NOT get any polish on the decal! always carefully work around it.
This can be used for fireboxes and later bases too by the way guys. The finished article:
Very clean and very shiney. Much, much better guys!
Decal has survived very well indeed! as you can see it's the older one which confuses me slightly I must say!.
Ok, next on the list was the boiler. With everything removed and soaking in vinegar it was a remarkably easy job. I took the boiler into the warm water again to remove the loose soot/grime collected underneath. Then will the trusty Brasso wadding, started to polish the boiler up. It helps to hold the boiler in a soft cloth then your hands don't get as dirty/ don't make the clean parts of the boiler dirty again. Persistance is the key guys! keep working at it and you hopefully end up with something similar to this:
Very clean. This picture also shows the cleaned up firebox too! with some scorching, not bad for something made in '46 though. Of course will be leaving EXACTLY how I got it.
The supports to the countershaft/piston and disc crank were very easy to clean as they weren't really too dirty. All I did was again, washed them in warm water and they came out very clean and in excellent condition. You can see them in the picture below:
Attach them both back on to the base through brass flat-headed bolts from the underneath;
 .
OK, the brass parts had been soaking for around 30-45 minutes and were ready to come out of the vinegar. The vinegar had removed most of the dirt and it was once round them all with the Brasso Wadding and they came up as new:
The Brasswork on this engine is of the highest quality, especially the engine frames which were infact suprisngly heavy!.
I removed and disposed of the old wick, could have been asbestos so I wasn't going to mess around with it. Polished up the wick burner too! (2 wick not 3, as they came in around '4
The assembly went like a dream, with all the parts going back on A-ok! no problems were found with threads, nuts, bolts anything which is remarkable considering I bought it. 
All is left to do is a before and after shot I guess, had loads of fun cleaning this beast up. I think I MAY fire it now I have got some more "o" rings from Jimbo (thanks much again).
BEFORE:
AFTER:
Will do a picture of the whole flatbase collection together tonight if you like. I hope you like it anyway, i've sweated blood cleaning this beauty up  . Not one Mamod was harmed during the clean up of the engine  . A good example of sympathetic restoration. Enjoy guys!
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Sandman
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Enjoy is the word. As I said in an earlier thread. This is what the hobby is all about.
What a great job. You must feel very proud MM.
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Mamodman123
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Extremly proud Sandman enjoyed it a lot!!
I want Mike to asses it, im curious about the decal and the boiler strap. I've seen another one like this! but it wasn't the same, it look younger 
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Lewis
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great engine mm how much was it
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Mamodman123
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That would be telling Lewis
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Lewis
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bet it was alot
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Dauntless
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Nice Job MM
I see yellowy got in a few of the pics too!
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Mamodman123
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| Dauntless wrote: | Nice Job MM
I see yellowy got in a few of the pics too! |
He did indeed it seems to fit anything and everything
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Lewis
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yellowy ?
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Mamodman123
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| lewisop1991 wrote: | | yellowy ? |
The screwdriver
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Lewis
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oh yes i see now
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Mamodman123
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| lewisop1991 wrote: | | oh yes i see now |
The red one was for stirring the vinegar and salt with
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Lewis
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its a superb engine mm wish i had a flat base i really need to get one sometime are you going to run it
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Manxman
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Very nice job MM and a great addition to your collection. Didn't you say you were going to 'thin things out a little'. Seems to me you are adding to it!
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Mamodman123
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| lewisop1991 wrote: |
its a superb engine mm wish i had a flat base i really need to get one sometime are you going to run it |
Thanks Lewis!
I well have to add a few "o" rings in first before I run, so quite possibly yes
Thanks Manxman, I will be thinning very soon, going to sort out a few things tonight and still have about 3 engines to bring up to scratch before I sell them
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Lewis
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witch engies might you be selling mm
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Mamodman123
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| lewisop1991 wrote: | | witch engies might you be selling mm |
Well I'm not 100% sure yet, i'm going to sit down tonight a sort one out at least.
It's very difficult to let engines go!  especially when they have been with you for a very long time 
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Lewis
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i was thinking of selling my mm2 but i just couldent let go so im not selling it
i could be interested depending on the engine
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Mamodman123
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Not sure, I have a few lined up to sell when they are cleaned/finsihed. That Griffin and George will be sold, as will that other SE3 i'm doing up. I have a fire engine too... see how they mount up?
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Lewis
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well im only interested in engines i havent got if you had an se1 then i would be interested
back on topic does the engine have mamod stampes on the engine block
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Darren
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Nice clean up job MM
It reminds me, that I need to do the same kind of job on my SE2 of the same age + I need to source a few missing items i.e all the counter wheel parts are missing (bar, cogged wheel, pullies etc).
Darren.
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Mamodman123
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| lewisop1991 wrote: | well im only interested in engines i havent got if you had an se1 then i would be interested
back on topic does the engine have mamod stampes on the engine block |
Have no SE1 apart from my Hobbies.
Yes it does have mamod on the engine block. It's not stamped. It's cast into the engine frames. They are solid brass, very heavy! and of the highest quality Lewis
I picked the engine up for the first time and it's one fair weight I can tell you!. I can only imagine how heavy the SE4 is! 
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Mamodman123
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| Darren wrote: | Nice clean up job MM
It reminds me, that I need to do the same kind of job on my SE2 of the same age + I need to source a few missing items i.e all the counter wheel parts are missing (bar, cogged wheel, pullies etc).
Darren. |
Thanks Darren. If you need anything measuring up for parts or anything I will happily do that for you .They are wonderful engines!
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Darren
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| Mamodman123 wrote: | | I well have to add a few "o" rings in first before I run. |
I've ordered 50 of the really small 'O' rings suitable for fitting over the pipe and inside the union nut. So if you're short then let me know.
If you wouldn't mind measuring the countershaft componets up, I'd appriciate it. As I'm into SE2 engines at the moment i.e I've already restored 3 out of the 5 in my collection
Darren.
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Mamodman123
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| Darren wrote: | | Mamodman123 wrote: | | I well have to add a few "o" rings in first before I run. |
I've ordered 50 of the really small 'O' rings suitable for fitting over the pipe and inside the union nut. So if you're short then let me know.
If you wouldn't mind measuring the countershaft componets up, I'd appriciate it. As I'm into SE2 engines at the moment i.e I've already restored 3 out of the 4 in my collection
Darren. |
No problem Darren, I've just got a few "o" rings of James which should fit ok, so hopefully i'll put some of those on the pipework and we'll think about a little video
I'll measure all the countershaft parts up for you no problem. I'll do it whenever you are ready for them . I thought you might be into Se2's as you showed us the Hobbies and that 1950 version. You have a '46, so what's the other one
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Darren
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MM,
The O rings I'm refering too are 5/64"" inner diameter by 13/64" outer diameter.
Which roughly translates to 1.9mm inner diameter which fits nice and tight on the 1/8" pipework (which is 3.1mm) & has a outer diameter of 5.1mm which fits nice and tight into the union nut.
Just fit the O ring on the pipe, pull the nut down and poke the O ring into the union nut, then tighten it up.
I've used this set-up on all my restoration jobs and I have to say, it proves a really nice air tight seal, with the added bonus that it doesn't effect the look of the engine (as you can't see them) + they're easy to replace, should you ever need too.
Darren.
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Mamodman123
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| Darren wrote: | MM,
The O rings I'm refering too are 5/64"" inner diameter by 13/64" outer diameter.
Which roughly translates to 1.9mm inner diameter which fits nice and tight on the 1/8" pipework (which is 3.1mm) & has a outer diameter of 5.1mm which fits nice and tight into the union nut.
Just fit the O ring on the pipe, pull the nut down and poke the O ring into the union nut, then tighten it up.
I've used this set-up on all my restoration jobs and I have to say, it proves a really nice air tight seal, with the added bonus that it doesn't effect the look of the engine (as you can't see them) + they're easy to replace, should you ever need too.
Darren. |
I see, I guess it's better than soldering them up, looks to messy and you can't take it apart afterwards either!. I believe they originally had rubber seals anyway, but they perish through age
I'll investigate, they were a tight fit! but I don't think they will be steam tight!
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Wallace
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Mamodman, that is one fantastic cleanup job/restoration.
Just goes to show that paint isn't needed.
Probably the best resto job I've seen here. Incredible
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Mamodman123
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| Wallace wrote: | Mamodman, that is one fantastic cleanup job/restoration.
Just goes to show that paint isn't needed.
Probably the best resto job I've seen here. Incredible |
Cheers Wallace! I had a great model to work with, definatly no paint needed at all.
Once I get some o rings on the pipes I think I shall get her running
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James
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that is amazing mm!! i am sure i have seen one like that before. looked exactly the same!
you really hve done a great job. a credit to mamods
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Mamodman123
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| admin wrote: | that is amazing mm!! i am sure i have seen one like that before. looked exactly the same!
you really hve done a great job. a credit to mamods |
Thanks Jimbo. I will be firing it over the weekend time permitting, so watch this space
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James
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im watching. what now?
< look! im watching with anticipation
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Mamodman123
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| admin wrote: | im watching. what now?
< look! im watching with anticipation |
Try not to strain your eyes
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James
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ahh the staring burns must move them to keep them from hurting  i know!  ill wear my shades so it looks like im staring and i have my eyes closed wahahahahah (evil laugh)
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Mamodman123
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| admin wrote: | | ahh the staring burns must move them to keep them from hurting i know! ill wear my shades so it looks like im staring and i have my eyes closed wahahahahah (evil laugh) |
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James
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