tmuir
|
My SR1I received my SR1 today.
As you will see from the photos its only in average condition and needs a fair bit of work.
I'll be lucky to find any chrome on the cowling I think.
Safety valve is jammed, if I can't fix it I have a spare one.
Boiler has been repainted.
Biggest problem is bush has come loose on the whistle. 
As you can see the boiler is bolted on not rivetted but smokebox is rivetted to boiler. What year would this be? Pre 1967 atleast I'm guessing
I know the boiler can not be openned on a Te1a but can you open the boiler on a SR1?
I hope I can so I can fix loose whistle bush.
You can see it says 'Birmingham Mamod England' on the smokebox.
Burner looks to have been painted and needs some work.
What do you replace the wadding with?
Cotton wool or sheep wool or something else?
Any tips to fixing this one would be appreciated.
|
Mamodman123
|
I would personally repaint the boiler the correct colour to start with.
Its a 1965 version so an early ish one  .
The wheels look to be in good condition and should polish up nicely! I would also get the chrome re done aswell.
Burners can be packed with cotton wool and work fine
you've got some work to do on this one 
|
tmuir
|
| Mamodman123 wrote: | I would personally repaint the boiler the correct colour to start with.
Its a 1965 version so an early ish one .
The wheels look to be in good condition and should polish up nicely! I would also get the chrome re done aswell.
Burners can be packed with cotton wool and work fine
you've got some work to do on this one |
I know but it was cheap and less work than my Te1a needed.
Can you open the boiler on this one to resolder bush?
|
Mamodman123
|
| tmuir wrote: | | Mamodman123 wrote: | I would personally repaint the boiler the correct colour to start with.
Its a 1965 version so an early ish one .
The wheels look to be in good condition and should polish up nicely! I would also get the chrome re done aswell.
Burners can be packed with cotton wool and work fine
you've got some work to do on this one |
I know but it was cheap and less work than my Te1a needed.
Can you open the boiler on this one to resolder bush? |
No but you can solder on the outside and it'll be covered by the firebox and whistle
|
yosa
|
About the same as the one I got, except for the whistle (well saved MM).
I took mine apart, not finished yet. Reckon it's well worth it though tmuir. Good engine and a bit special. Nice one. 
|
tmuir
|
I've got an old knackered boiler from my TE1a.
I can see the solder line on the back end of the boiler so I'm going to try and desolder it.
If I can repair it I will try it on my SR1's boiler.
If it doesn't work its no loss as boiler is no good.
|
yosa
|
Worth the experiment tmuir, might show up something we can all learn from. Good luck with it.
|
Mamodman123
|
| tmuir wrote: | I've got an old knackered boiler from my TE1a.
I can see the solder line on the back end of the boiler so I'm going to try and desolder it.
If I can repair it I will try it on my SR1's boiler.
If it doesn't work its no loss as boiler is no good. |
Possibly Tmuir, although i'm pretty sure it will be difficult to open and resolder back 
|
tmuir
|
| Mamodman123 wrote: |
Possibly Tmuir, although i'm pretty sure it will be difficult to open and resolder back |
I'll let you know in about 15 minutes. 
|
yosa
|
Just a thought, and I've never done anything like this. How about a metal flat bar drilled to receive the two bolts on the end. Fasten to boiler and pull as you heat. Might provide even pressure, and end might pop off. ( Am I just talking garbage here guys?)
|
Mamodman123
|
| tmuir wrote: | | Mamodman123 wrote: |
Possibly Tmuir, although i'm pretty sure it will be difficult to open and resolder back |
I'll let you know in about 15 minutes. |
Good luck Tmuir
I'm not sure what you mean Yosa, It will be difficult to get the end off a TE1a boiler because there is no lip or anything to tap . That's why it's going to be difficult!
|
yosa
|
| Mamodman123 wrote: | | tmuir wrote: | | Mamodman123 wrote: |
Possibly Tmuir, although i'm pretty sure it will be difficult to open and resolder back |
I'll let you know in about 15 minutes. |
Good luck Tmuir
I'm not sure what you mean Yosa, It will be difficult to get the end off a TE1a boiler because there is no lip or anything to tap . That's why it's going to be difficult! |
Yep, but on the SR1 boiler there are two bolts on the end. And as I write, it dawns that tmuir is opening a TE1A boiler. 
Wake me up about 6:00 if you don't mind.
|
Mamodman123
|
Oh I see Yosa, yes that could work, providing the solder like is that end
|
tmuir
|
Damm tight fit.
I had the back inch of the boiler glowing red so any soft solder should of been well melted.
I have a titanium soldering pick (its actually a titanium wheel spoke I bought especially for soldering) which has a hook on the back end.
Put hook in overflow hole and even though the boiler was glowing red could not get cap off.
Need to set up a more secure soldering station outside away from my wood house before I try again. Will try again on the weekend.
|
Mamodman123
|
| tmuir wrote: | Damm tight fit.
I had the back inch of the boiler glowing red so any soft solder should of been well melted.
I have a titanium soldering pick (its actually a titanium wheel spoke I bought especially for soldering) which has a hook on the back end.
Put hook in overflow hole and even though the boiler was glowing red could not get cap off.
Need to set up a more secure soldering station outside away from my wood house before I try again. Will try again on the weekend. |
I didn't think it was going to come off Tmuir! i'm still not sure you will ever get it off
You can keep trying I guess but you will probably melt the boiler before getting the end cap off 
|
yosa
|
O.k. then, here's another thought, could be dangerouse.
How about putting the boiler under positive pressure with an air compressor, then heat the end and see if it blows off.
|
Mamodman123
|
| yosa wrote: | O.k. then, here's another thought, could be dangerouse.
How about putting the boiler under positive pressure with an air compressor, then heat the end and see if it blows off. |
Then if it works send it to the army and they can use it as a cannon
The only problem is, if part of it is still stuck on it might bend the cap
|
yosa
|
| Mamodman123 wrote: | | yosa wrote: | O.k. then, here's another thought, could be dangerouse.
How about putting the boiler under positive pressure with an air compressor, then heat the end and see if it blows off. |
Then if it works send it to the army and they can use it as a cannon
The only problem is, if part of it is still stuck on it might bend the cap |
Didn't think that far ahead. Did I mention I've got a black eye now.
|
tmuir
|
| yosa wrote: | O.k. then, here's another thought, could be dangerouse.
How about putting the boiler under positive pressure with an air compressor, then heat the end and see if it blows off. |
I think I'll pass on that idea don't fancy the end cap flying off at me under pressure whilest glowing red hot.
On the Te1a boiler the whistle thread has fallen out so have a large hole. Need to bend up some heavier metal that I can use to knock the end cap off the the inside.
Wondering if endcap and overflow bush is silver soldered as the overflow bush did not fall out even though I had the brass red hot and I got a silver bloom around bush in much the same way as silver solder goes.
Wil keep you informed.
|
Mamodman123
|
The over flow plug should be part of the boiler sort of like the later stationary over flows, isn't it?
Unless they are just riveted in?
|
tmuir
|
| Mamodman123 wrote: | The over flow plug should be part of the boiler sort of like the later stationary over flows, isn't it?
Unless they are just riveted in? |
Might be part of the boiler, hard to say as its been mangled.
Previous owner must of lost overflow plug at some point and had just forced a wood screw into the hole.
|
yosa
|
| tmuir wrote: | | Mamodman123 wrote: | The over flow plug should be part of the boiler sort of like the later stationary over flows, isn't it?
Unless they are just riveted in? |
Might be part of the boiler, hard to say as its been mangled.
Previous owner must of lost overflow plug at some point and had just forced a wood screw into the hole. |
Just boggles the mind sometimes.
|
Mamodman123
|
| tmuir wrote: | | Mamodman123 wrote: | The over flow plug should be part of the boiler sort of like the later stationary over flows, isn't it?
Unless they are just riveted in? |
Might be part of the boiler, hard to say as its been mangled.
Previous owner must of lost overflow plug at some point and had just forced a wood screw into the hole. |
Nothing i haven't seen before Tmuir! I've seen loads of different screws in overflows!
|
James
|
i have a solution. get a hacksaw, and saw the boiler end off about 1 cm in. then, do the thread and resolder on!! easy! and it will be covered up by the chrome cowling so nobody would ever know
|
tmuir
|
| James wrote: | | I have a solution. get a hacksaw, and saw the boiler end off about 1 cm in. then, do the thread and resolder on!! easy! and it will be covered up by the chrome cowling so nobody would ever know |
Then you would have to seal up the hole for the steam pipe and drill a new one as it would be out of alignment.
I'm going to have another try on the weekend to open the knackered te1a boiler. As it will give me good information as to whetjer I can open the SR1 boiler. If I can't get it open will have to attempt to solder bush from the outside.
|
yosa
|
| tmuir wrote: | | James wrote: | | I have a solution. get a hacksaw, and saw the boiler end off about 1 cm in. then, do the thread and resolder on!! easy! and it will be covered up by the chrome cowling so nobody would ever know |
Then you would have to seal up the hole for the steam pipe and drill a new one as it would be out of alignment.
I'm going to have another try on the weekend to open the knackered te1a boiler. As it will give me good information as to whetjer I can open the SR1 boiler. If I can't get it open will have to attempt to solder bush from the outside. |
Wish you the best of luck with it mate, but ultimately I reckon the external repair is going to be the way to go. A top class neat solder job though shouldn't look too bad, and as MM said, it's covered by the cowl anyway.
|
tmuir
|
Biggest problem will be to get it clean enough to solder.
If I remove the arm off the whistle that would give me enough space to remove the cowling I think which in turn would give me enough space to solder.
I found an engine degreaser that work well at removing soot and grime and not paint so may go buy some more of that this weekend. Remove the wheels and give the firebox / boiler a good clean so I can see what I have to deal with.
|
yosa
|
It all comes apart easily enough. See what you mean about getting it clean enough to solder though, it is tight. See what the stuff from work does, definately on the right track to use something to immerse it in.
|
Wallace
|
Tmuir, re your whistle boss turning in thread.
Maybe worth a try is turning bolier upside down, so whistle is facing floor, and heat around it, to allow the exisiting solder to melt.
Worked with union nut thread on my SE2, and tested it lots since, and it hasn't failed yet.
At your own risk though. Problem is if solder gets into whistle.
None got in my union nut hole
|
tmuir
|
| Wallace wrote: | Tmuir, re your whistle boss turning in thread.
Maybe worth a try is turning bolier upside down, so whistle is facing floor, and heat around it, to allow the exisiting solder to melt.
Worked with union nut thread on my SE2, and tested it lots since, and it hasn't failed yet.
At your own risk though. Problem is if solder gets into whistle.
None got in my union nut hole |
Worth a try as I don't think I could solder the bush without soldering the whistle to the boiler aswell
|
tmuir
|
I just removed the cylinder and wheels from the Sr1 getting it ready for a degrease tomorrow and discovered the black on the top is not completely caused by corrosion, at some point someone has painted the top of the cowling black so with a bit of work the chrome work may come up good enough to be left as is.
|
Mamodman123
|
Good news Tmuir! Hopefully it will polish up well! Hope it does anyway!
The paint might have saved the chrome!
|
yosa
|
Can't believe somebody painted it. But maybe a lucky find for you mate. Fingers crossed.
|
Mamodman123
|
If you remove that little bit of rust coming through it will probably be ok
Lucky it's painted, but you often think why people do that?
|
yosa
|
| Mamodman123 wrote: | If you remove that little bit of rust coming through it will probably be ok
Lucky it's painted, but you often think why people do that? |
Tasteless nurks!
|
Mamodman123
|
| yosa wrote: | | Mamodman123 wrote: | If you remove that little bit of rust coming through it will probably be ok
Lucky it's painted, but you often think why people do that? |
Tasteless nurks! |
Black is the new chrome didn't you know Yosa
|
yosa
|
This seasons SR1 by Amani. Note the elegant simplicity, for daytime or evening.
|
Mamodman123
|
| yosa wrote: | | This seasons SR1 by Amani. Note the elegant simplicity, for daytime or evening. |
|
tmuir
|
| yosa wrote: | | This seasons SR1 by Amani. Note the elegant simplicity, for daytime or evening. |
|
tmuir
|
I suspected black paint as the 2 rear rivets on the cowling were black but didn't know for sure until I removed the wheels.
Don't think it was to touch up the firebox as it looks original, but I'll know more tomorrow once I've cleaned all the grime and soot off.
|
Scruffyroller
|
What a lovely little roller, look forward to seeing progress.
|
tmuir
|
Did I polish a bit too much?
Shined flywheel and wheel next to an unshined one.
Spents ages with a rag and brasso.....
No not really bought a new stictched wheel for my buffer just polished fly wheel but wheel took it through grades of W&D from 180 to 600 before polishing.
Now another 3 wheels to go.........
|
SPOKESMAN
|
Top dollar job .. ..
|
Sandman
|
Excellent job. Made me all the more intent on changing the coarse wheel on my grinder to a polishing mop.
|
Mamodman123
|
No Tmuir, it looks fantastic. I bet your arms ache after that though!
Sometimes the wheels have corrosion on them, luckily yours look to be perfect or there abouts
|
tmuir
|
The back wheels and flywheel have been refitted.
The photo below makes the chrome look quiet bad when infact its not too bad.
Both sides are near perfect, the top has lost about one third of its chrome but in real life looks a lot better than the photo. The red is not rust its metal that has lost its chrome, the flash did strange things to it.
I finaly found the brass on the whistle after removing 2 coats of black paint and one of silver.
The boiler really needs repainting but as the whistle bush was loose and I could not remove it and now have soldered the whistle perminately on I cant remove the boiler to paint it so decided to leave as is for now.
Still have front wheel to sort out and cylinder. I'm debating whether to repaint the coal scuttle as paint is average and has been repainted on the outside. So will most likely strip it and repaint.
Getting there slowly.
|
sparky
|
im quite suprised my sr1 is in really good condition its bearly got any scraches on it
|
tmuir
|
| sparky wrote: | | im quite suprised my sr1 is in really good condition its bearly got any scraches on it |
You must of got lucky.
Mine is an early one and I think has seen service through out most of its life, its actually a credit to its build quality that it still works at all.
But atleast I got it for a good price.
|
sparky
|
how much did you pay that a lovely engine i got mine for a good price aswell i payed £35
|
tmuir
|
| sparky wrote: | | how much did you pay that a lovely engine i got mine for a good price aswell i payed £35 |
I paid £30 on a buy it now.
|
sparky
|
very nice price ill put me pictures up soon anyway schools finished bye
|
Mamodman123
|
The front rollers never come up as well as the rear wheels sadly!
It is looking good though Tmuir! Nice work! Stick with the rag and brasso aswell! I bet you won't get a better finish with a poishing wheel!
|
tmuir
|
| Mamodman123 wrote: | The front rollers never come up as well as the rear wheels sadly!
It is looking good though Tmuir! Nice work! Stick with the rag and brasso aswell! I bet you won't get a better finish with a poishing wheel! |
Probably not better but a lot quicker.
Once I had W&D the scratches and scrapes off it only took me 5 to 10 mins to polish each wheel on my polishing wheel.
Have to be careful though nearly burnt myself twice I got the wheels so hot from polishing.
As a side note I was using polishing compound two levels away from finishing polish, as you cant mix polishing compounds on mops if you want them to work properly and each polishing wheel costs $20 I decided there was no need to go to mirror finish as it will get scratched the first time I run it.
|
Griffin
|
Nice one Tmuir, coming along nicely there.
|
Sandman
|
I'm a great believer the polishing mop. I suppose because I used it a lot during my engineering days.
Where it really comes into its own is when there are deep scratches or damage to polish out. No other method could remove them as well as the old mop and polishing soap.
|
tmuir
|
| Sandman wrote: | I'm a great believer the polishing mop. I suppose because I used it a lot during my engineering days.
Where it really comes into its own is when there are deep scratches or damage to polish out. No other method could remove them as well as the old mop and polishing soap. |
I'm just lazy.
Would rather let a machine do the hard work instead of my arms.
|
Mamodman123
|
| tmuir wrote: | | Sandman wrote: | I'm a great believer the polishing mop. I suppose because I used it a lot during my engineering days.
Where it really comes into its own is when there are deep scratches or damage to polish out. No other method could remove them as well as the old mop and polishing soap. |
I'm just lazy.
Would rather let a machine do the hard work instead of my arms. |
When it comes to Mamods, i'm exactly the opposite. I'll polish until my arms won't move
|
Wallace
|
Looks fantastic tmuir.
I like machines to do the work for me too
The wet and dry didn't take out the light grooved lines from the flywheel did it?
If not, I might give it a try
|
tmuir
|
| Wallace wrote: | Looks fantastic tmuir.
I like machines to do the work for me too
The wet and dry didn't take out the light grooved lines from the flywheel did it?
If not, I might give it a try |
I didn't use W&D on the flywheel for that reason.
Obviously bringing it to a high shine smoothes out the lines a bit but you can still see them.
There where no machining marks on the wheels though just lots of scratches from use. Thats why I W&D them.
|
Mamodman123
|
It's a '65 version Tmuir, it looks nice anyway you have done a good job.
I can see what you mean by the front wheels not coming up as well as the rear. The only time I would use wet and dry is if the wheels have corrosion on them. Then if you want to polish/clean them up I suppose you have to use it.
Still, a nice model
|
tmuir
|
Havent done the front wheels yet MM, just sat them back in place so I could take the photo.
The threaded rod is bent on the front fork too so need to try and straighten that too.
|
Mamodman123
|
| tmuir wrote: | Havent done the front wheels yet MM, just sat them back in place so I could take the photo.
The threaded rod is bent on the front fork too so need to try and straighten that too. |
That's quite common. They are easy to bend though Tmuir so that shouldn't be too much of a problem
|
