ncseverson's Jensen #60 Restoration

Nick · ncseverson's Jensen #60 Restoration

I recently purchased a Jensen #60 on ebay. I was interested because there is no sight glass and the tag says it's electric. I have begun restoring it this morning and created this so my restoration could be followed. I am going to repaint the firebox and clean the rest of it up.

Here is a video of it running the way I received it:

Sorry, there is no sound. I used a regular camera and it doesn't have sound. If you want sound, fire up one of your engines, set it behind you, so you can here it running, but watch mine instead. When I blow the whistle, whistle with your mouth, and it will be just like being in my basement watching this run.

I will add pics later of how the project is going.

Nick

Nick

I have already repainted the firebox this morning. The paint I used is made by rust-oleum and is heat resistant up to 1200 degrees F. It is colored aged copper and here is the website- http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=108

Here is a picture of the old firebox the way it came:

Here is the new paint:

And here it is compared to a "pink Jensen":

I hope to update some more, but I have to go to work. I don't know if it will stand up to a fire, but I am going to try it anyways.

Nick

Atticman

Lovely machine there look foreward to more pics, and to think I hadnt heard of Jensen till I joined the forum.

Shame theres not many in the UK, but if I ever come to the USA I will bring some empty bags to fill up there

By the way you need to check Walaces post on making your photobucket private

Heres the thread http://modelsteam.myfreeforum.org/about7701.html

johnreid

Occasionally those without the sightglass appear on Ebay, maybe not rare, but definitely different. It looks like a fast runner, I am anxious to see how the Rustoleum turns out, I bet the aged copper color will make it look just like that, aged, not necessarily a bad thing.

Andy

look nice, well done

johnreid

LOL I was posting as you were putting the pictures up, so far I like it. For the Esbit fired Jensens that paint might be just what the Doctor ordered.

Nick

Does anyone have tips for cleaning the base up. The only rust is really just under the firebox. How can I shine up the base without harming the original paint? Also, what's the best way to polish up that boiler?
Thanks for the help,
Nick

MooseMan

Hi Nick,

Love that firebox - a vast improvement over the Jensen pink!

As for the base - I'd treat it with rust inhibitor and then shine it up with car wax. The boiler will polish up a treat with any good metal polish - SimiChrome is great, ask Rog - but don't polish it too hard or you'll lose the chrome plating!

Nice to meet you BTW!

IndianaRog

Nick,

Nice job on that Jensen firebox...the Rustoleum looks very similar to the Krylon I have used with the added advantage of heat resistance. One thing to check BEFORE firing it up though...directions for most high temp paints require pre-baking in the kitchen oven. VHT paints (very high temp) for example require 3 pre-bakings...30 min at 200 deg. F, 30 min at 400 deg. F and 30 min. at 600 deg. F...each with 30 min cooldown in between bakings.

Rustoleum might NOT need that, but I found other paints remain soft and easily scraped if they are not pre-baked.

As for the base, can't add more than Mooseman's advice unless you want a complete re-paint. For a repaint there is no good match I have found in spray paint...instead I had some mixed up at my local ACE hardware using their color matching system...had to buy a quart and it is brush on, not spray. I used it on my Jensen 51 replica engine and got a reasonable match.

Welcome again to the forum and it's great to see you jump in with a progressive restoration right off the bat...

Rog

johnreid

I looked on Rustoleums web page and it mentions nothing about the need to bake it, however there might be something on the can, Is there?
I would add that I would avoid any harsh chemicals to clean that base plate as the paint wants to peel if you do use something other than mild cleansers. I wish that there was a spray paint available that would match the Jensen base, but there is not.
I am loving the electrically heater Jensens and have just about given up on the metal plates as the wood plates seem to stay put a lot better. I have saved my plates, but the one from my 25 is about halfway devoid of paint, I guess I could paint it a solid color if I decided to reuse it.
I used a swirl remover ( real mild abrasive) , then I gave a coat of car wax to the one attached to the 75 that IO sold on Ebay. It dressed it up just fine, but I do not know if there are any adverse affects to wax when it would be fired with Esbit.

Mamodman123

I use a good car wax (not polish or cutting compound on my engines) Remember car wax should not remove any paint

A real top quality car wax would actually need to be melted and applied by the warmth of your hands.

If applied correctly in a few layers it will stop all water and oil soaking in and it should just run off!

Nick

I am not planning on painting anything but the firebox, I want it as close to the original as I can. I also found some hammered paint by rustoleum in a couple of shades of blue to a green color. They give the look the base plates have. I bought them to compare it with mine, but took them back to the store. They were a very close match, but not exact. I also bought the hamered silver someone mentioned, to paint where the chimney attaches.

As for the baking, it just says let it sit for an hour, and something else about 48 hours I think before applying heat. I will let it sit a couple of days before firing to be safe. It also says the paint will emit a smoke at first that is "harmless". I am going to fire it eventually and videotape it, so I can see if it really is heat resistant. If it's not, I will remove the paint and try something else.

Nick

johnreid

I would advise that the first fireing should take place in a well ventilated area, that "harmless smokes a little" reminds me of a time I painted a Wood Stove, needless to say the house was full of smelly smoke.
I used the hammered Silver Krylon and was not dissatisfied, but it does have a distinctive and different look.
This was a very rusty engine base that had little to no chrome left on it, so I painted it with the Krylon Hammered Silver

I still like it on the cap of the chimney base and would repeat using it if needed.
I am very impressed with the Rustoleum in your pictures, I might have to pick up a 60 one of these days.

Nick

I plan on running it a lot if the paint holds up. I have paint inside the firebox too, so I am wondering how bad that will get when exposed to open flame. I am going to leave the tabs that hold the firebox to the base straight, so the firebox can easily be removed for cleaning. I am also going to use the screws and nuts for the boiler strap like on the model 76 for easy removal and cleaning of the boiler.

Another thing I was wondering about, I am using photobucket for my pictures. How can I get them to appear smaller, having to scroll over to read the typing is annoying. I noticed the last picture submitted was smaller.

Nick

Stilldrillin

Nick

I figured out how to shrink the images, no more scrolling.

johnreid

I resize mine on my computer before sending them to Photobucket. Although 99% of my pictures are just for the web, there is an off chance that I would like a big one for some reason, so I save the originals full size.
I think they warn against painting where flames come in contact with, but I would think that the worse that would happen is that it would burn off, hopefully not so hot that it discolors the exterior. I have my hopes up that the Rustoleum holds up as the paint is so badly scorched on any of the Esbit fired Jensens.
I have to admit that yours makes me want either a 60 or 65, then maybe work out a Meths burner, Esbits stink.

Nick

Here is what it looked like when I first began disassembly:

After complete disassembly:

After cleaning up what I could on the base, painting the firebox, and polishing the boiler:

And somewhat put together, giving it a more complete look:

The only poor condition parts were the boiler strap (too rusted), spring on the whistle is broke, and relief valve was stuck.

I still have a little more work on cleaning up some small parts, and hope to fire it up by the middle of the week. I will videotape the first firing to see if the paint holds up. I was wondering if anyone knows about the replacement rivets from Jensen. Are they the ones for holding the boiler to the firebox (Because I am just using screws and nuts from the #76) or are they the three I need to hold parts to the base of the engine?

Nick

Wallace

That looks great Nick

Sandman

Excellent job.

I look forward to the vid.

Keep up the gopod work.

Mamodman123

Base has got a funny finish on it, wonder how they did that?

johnreid

You have to ask for the rivets that hold the engine to the base, I would just use screws and bolts though. The rivets they list are the eyelet rivets that they use to attach the boiler straps etc. I think that they look so much better, but in fact I ended up using one of the screws on my 25 as the firebox had too large a hole for one of the places that the boiler strap was attached, if I ever take it apart again I will back it with a washer and use the eyelet.
If you order new Boiler Straps new screws and nuts or eyelets ( your choice ) are included in the price of the straps.
IMHO it is well worth the time to order the needed new parts as opposed to making do with corroded old ones. However I also think that it might be a lot easier just to use 6-32 screws and nuts to hold the engine to the base.
If you have any questions at all about the parts you need, Dorita at Jensen will be more than helpful in seeing that you order what you need. Jensen is real good about parts and Customer Service.

johnreid

Nick

The thing about the rivets is this. I want to use screws for the boiler strap, so I can remove the boiler to clean it easily after each run. The firebox is held to the base by tabs that poke through the base and are then bent from underneath, tight to the base (I am leaving them straight, so I can lift the firebox off the base for cleaning). The rivets I need are three of the non-eyelet ones, whatever they are called. They hold that shiny metal piece to the base, where the flywheel, piston assembly, and steam line attatch.

Nick

Nick

If you look at my last post of the four pictures, the first one is a top view and it shows the three rivets, one has a washer underneath it.

Nick

johnreid

I might be nuts, but removing the boiler after each run might be a hassle. The screws that they supply for the Boiler strap are with square nuts, I do not know how to attach the nuts so you would not have to remove the Firebox from the base each time too. I would polish the exposed portion and allow the Esbit crud to build up on the underside of the Boiler. I fear that if you used sheet metal screws that the holes would wear in time and the Firebox would then eventually need to be replaced.

Nick

I have a #76, which has the nuts. The firebox on these engines are not screwed down, they are straight metal tabs that go into slits of the base (After inserted, they're supposed to be bent flat with the base to hold the two together). So, if I leave the tabs straight, the firebox basically lifts right off the base (If the steam screw is removed from the steam line). This is how you easily access the nuts to remove the screws from the boiler straps. By the way, you would be nuts to clean it after every run, but I like to keep my stuff as clean as possible. I won't clean it every run, but I don't want it as built up and rusty as the way I received it.

Nick

johnreid

Ahh, I now see what you were saying. You must forgive me as I am only familiar with the build of the models that I have messed with. 25, 75, and 70, all of which had the Firebox riveted to the base.

IndianaRog

That shimmery looking base finish seen on all Jensen hobby (metal based) engines is an industrial finish often seen on vices and heavy shop machinery. It is very durable stuff and the shimmery finish can cover flaws in the surface well.

It CAN be purchased from Sherwin Williams paint company under the name "Dimenso"...but it is not practical for hobbyists like ourselves having a limited shelf life, high price and is available only in larger size cans.

I think the clean, polish/oil as best you can is probably the most practical way of salvaging a rough base like that on Nick's Jensen 60/76. Another option of course is to buy a new base direct from Jensen...not that expensive and gives the piece a whole new look.

cheers,
Roger

johnreid

I wonder, if one was to install a sort of heat shield/drip tray about an eighth of an inch above the base inside the firebox, if a good deal of the damage to the base could be eliminated.
It takes a rare breed to worry about such things, but I could see how much nicer ones engine would look years down the road. Wonder if one used Aluminum foil since Nick plans on removing the firebox frequently, a disposable heat shield/drip tray.

MooseMan

On most of my meths fired engines I have cut out a section of Jensen insulating sheet to protect the base paint in the firebox....one word of caution is in order though: it makes excellent wick material, so don't spill any meths on it......

johnreid

Maybe a piece of Aluminum foil would keep that sheet dry Moose, I like the idea of the insulation AND the Al foil, might make for a more efficient burn too.

johnreid

I was just reading more about the Rustoleum high heat, it comes in Black and Hunter Green along with some other colors, I can not wait to see how you like it once you have fired the engine up. If the paint holds up without having to bake it, that would be so nice.

Nick

Well, I am getting closer to finishing the engine, and my goal is to fire it up in the next day. I will need a few small parts, but I will borrow them from other engines, because I can't wait to see if the paint holds up or burns and flakes away.

redryder

Cranko

Stilldrillin

johnreid

Just wondering if you had a Christmas Steam up with the fresh paint?
I am of the thought that the fear of a bd smell might have preempted the Steam up

Minor1PJG

I'm waiting to hear too.... I think we all want to see how that paint holds up

My #75 did a good impression of an inferno last time out and the pink paint is suffering!! Those fuel blocks can spit when wet

Mister Occlusion

Interesting regarding the paint. I had used Tremclad high temp paint and was disapointed with it because it did indeed go soft on me at every firing of my electric engine (I think it MAY finally be cured now as it did not seem soft yesterday... this is months after being painted).

The tremclad product also does not mention the need to bake. I assume that they intend it for BBQs and thus expect the BBQ to cure it when you use it...

For photos I always shoot at maximum resolution. Then I resize them to 640x480 with editing software and save those low res copies under a different file name to upload, preserving the original high res shots (remember: you can always shrink a picture, but you cannot enlarge them without losing detail unless you work for that magical CSI outfit on TV...).

Also, if you want to avoid having to clean up after Esbit, get yourself a meths burner, or make one. 5/8" OD square tubing fits those engines, or Forest Classics in the UK sell some that will also work. downside: 7 minute burn time max. Upside? Using denatured alcohol fuel produces less residue. Methanol burns even cleaner. Still, there's no need to disassemble to clean. Get in there with an old toothbrush and scrub away

Alcohol is also loads cheaper.

Nick

Sorry for not posting sooner. I have been busy working at my regular job and we had a snow storm, so I had a couple of all nighters out shoveling snow at my other job. I did fire it up on Christmas day. The paint got soft on me, if you touch it with your finger while the fire is burning, you can see your fingerprint. It also created very small blisters. I am not sure, but it appears to have maybe darkened a little. I called Rustoleum and they are refunding me for the paint, so I get my money back and still have almost a full can of the paint. I am going to remove the paint and eventually try something else. The fireboxes are cheap, so if I wreck it, I am not worried. I will post pics and a video of it running sometime.
Nick

Mister Occlusion

Ach.... I wonder if it's the same thing with Rustoleum then...

Tremclad paint on my Model 85 did the same thing after 2 firings. It began to peel.

I should have griped too, it seems.

Eventually, to salvage it, I stripped the paint, then the copper plating until I got down to bare steel (or tin plate, I suspect). I tried some cold bluing on it, then, with middling results (t'was a bit uneven).

I didn't fire it after that, since I gifted it away shortly afterwards.

It may never get fired again, since she's afraid to even take it out of the box, lest the kids smash it (they have a track record of targeted mayhem).

Several people here have stripped off the Jensen pink paint to reveal copper plating underneath. 2 Caveats: 1: you can't strip it if it's been fired.... not easily anyway. 2: Don't use the stripper that I did, which dissolved the copper and lead to my adventures with shoddy HT paint and gun bluing

...It was Ca.1852 or some weird name like that... I forget

Nick

It doesn't say anything about baking the paint, it just says wait 1 hour before applying heat after spraying. I may get it to bare metal again, repaint it and bake it, because after my first firing, the paint felt harder, but got soft again as I re-fired it.

Mister Occlusion

Could be you just need to heat evenly and carefully at first.

When I stripped mine off, the remaining black paint was as hard as stone. I couldn't even melt the peeled bits with a propane torch.

Where it had peeled was in the middle and upper areas. Same place as where the fireboxes burn in the first place. Could have been too much heat too quickly in my case.

I'm guessing a bake wouldn't hurt the stuff. If I try it again I'll fling the firebox into the BBQ for an hour and see what happens

Nick

Well, I still have enough paint to redo it 2 or 3 times, so I may try and bake it to see what happens. My dad didn't think the paint would work either, because he tried header paint one time and the minute he started the car, it smoked and burned off. I had to try it anyway.

johnreid

I know that with header paint there is a procedure to cure the paint which is something like run the engine for 5 minutes, let cool then run for 30 minutes, let cool and 30 minutes again. One should look up the procedure first, but that is the jest of it. I wish the folks at Rustoleum would spell out any procedure if any that they recommend fot the high temp paint.