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tamanduta

New Guy's Lubrication and Fuel Questions ..

Hi All, A Question or two , and of course I need some advice.


I’m picking up a new Steamco STC-04 engine when I return to Australia later this month and would like advise on the best method for lubing this oscillating engine, there’s no oiler so how do you get oil into the cylinder and to the flat mating surfaces?

Does anyone run their STC-04 on metho, if so what burner do you use, I have a metho burner from Manor Models for the Wilesco,is this ok to use in the STC-04,I don’t want to ruin the paint like I did on the D406 until I was advised to water the metho down.( thanks Flywheel61). Also I’m a bit nervous about changing the firing method as there is no sight glass and don’t want to run it dry.

Everything I’ve learnt about toy steam I’ve picked up from this forum,( hence the new STC-04) it’s a great place to lurk  if you are new to all the fun.

Thanks and Regards,

James
benchmark

As regards to oiling the STC 04 or any other oscillator engine for that matter, you can just press the spring holding the cylinder to allow a little gap between the 2 rubbing faces then one drop of steam oil is enough. It will get into the cylinder via the port holes too when it starts moving.

The rest of the moving parts can be lubricated with ordinary oil.

Unfortunately i have not run my STC 04 on meths before as i have only used a small gas burner for it but it should not be difficult finding a meth burner that fits. A worse, use some silver foil to line the original burner and this will be able to hold some meths  
Roly Williams

For lubricating a single acting oscillating cylinder, like the STC-04, the simplest method is to apply a couple of drops of steam oil into the open end of the cylinder and turn the flywheel a few turns by hand. Benchmark's advice is good for the port face.
Dampfzauberer

for the steamco, the advice for the boiler is very simple.
You don't need to watch for the water leverl, because the boiler is silver soldered.
So then the engine stops, simply blow out the fire, wait a bit, and then re-fill it with fresh water.
tmuir

You will have no problems running Steamco engines on meths as they are silver soldered.
If you get the flames a bit too big you may scorch the firebox paint though.
I only run all my engines on meths (excluding my STuart which is connected to a 9kg propane bottle.    )

I haven't made a burner especially for my Steamco engine yet, I just usually use one of my wick burners from my smaller locos.
46u

I recommend using distilled water in any engine. I prefer gas burner over solid or meths fuel.
kevininasia

I made a little methanol burner which sits inside the existing Steamco fuel tray for convenience. There are pics in this thread, about halfway down.

http://modelsteam.myfreeforum.org/viewtopic.php?t=31587&start=0

You could just use a normal wick for simplicity, instead of the vapourising thing I was testing.
Wallace

I know it's been mentioned that the boiler is silver soldered however if you are worried when using a meths burner on an engine that it's not originally suited to I ensure the boiler is to correct level, same with burner and start with cold water.
Once it's up to steam I run it for about 10mins then blow out the burner. I measure the amount of meths and water left and basically adjust from there for future runs and make a note of it  
tamanduta

Thanks all for the informative replies.

Some things I’ve learnt:

Single action oscillating cylinders are totally different in principal to a slide valve cylinder, didn’t realize one end of the cylinder is open .Will follow everyone’s suggestions regarding lubrication procedures.

A silver soldered boiler is more robust than the Wilesco boiler in that it can be run dry eliminating the need for a water level gauge. Why don’t all manufacturers use silver soldering?

Will have to wait until I get the engine back to Jakarta to see if the Manor Models Burner is suitable, will use esbit to fire it in Australia.

Kevin’s burner tray insert or something similar is what I need to aim for long term as I would like to keep the unique looking facade of the Steamco burner, unfortunately that level of fabrication is way beyond my skills.

Would like to thank everyone for taking the time to reply to my queries, hopefully someday I will get the chance to help out here on the Forum.

Cheers,

James
tamanduta

Hi Andrew , in hind sight the commercially made metho burner I use with the Wilesco D406 doesn’t go anywhere  near using all the water in the boiler before running out of flame , someone’s used your method to calculate the safe run time.

If it fits the STC-04 it will do for a while.

Thanks for all the input.

James
BK

Esbits will cost you an arm and part of a leg     Go for camping stove solid fuel tablets (hexamine), about half the price and bugger all smell.
Roly Williams

Silver soldered boilers are better able to withstand high temperatures than soft soldered ones and may be able to survive the occasional running dry. However, you shouldn't rely on it. There's no such thing as a bullet proof vest! Always ensure there is water left in the boiler when the fuel runs out.
Wallace

tamanduta wrote:
Hi Andrew , in hind sight the commercially made metho burner I use with the Wilesco D406 doesn’t go anywhere  near using all the water in the boiler before running out of flame , someone’s used your method to calculate the safe run time.

If it fits the STC-04 it will do for a while.

Thanks for all the input.

James


Hi James

Most, if not all factory metho burners will run out before the boiler runs dry if everything is used correctly. The old wick burners for Mamods can run a bit close.
Some aftermarket burners tend to be smaller than original. I know a fair while back from another dealer the SE3 burners turned out to have 33% less capacity.

Now that I have a gas burner that I plan to only use on a couple of engines I'm recalculating run times.

It'll turn out all fine for you   . I run my Steamco 1 on meths. Only problem I have is the vibration of the engine causing the burner to move. But it did that with the solid fuel tray too.

I agree with Roly too. I wouldn't just rely on silver soldered boiler and only see it as a last resort should things go wrong as it's good practice to always have water left in the boiler after a run.
Swift Fox

Roly Williams wrote:
Silver soldered boilers are better able to withstand high temperatures than soft soldered ones and may be able to survive the occasional running dry. However, you shouldn't rely on it. There's no such thing as a bullet proof vest! Always ensure there is water left in the boiler when the fuel runs out.


I have to agree with Roly there, it is bad practice to run any boiler dry.
tamanduta

Bernie , I'll check out the local camping warehouse for Hexamine , I plan to steam up as much as I can during my two weeks leave. This engine has been sitting at my sisters place for the last four months so I'm pretty keen , still got 17 days to go , but who's counting

Thanks Roly and others for putting me straight regarding Silver soldered boilers , had the wrong idea.  I'll stick to the procedure  I use for my D406 , NEVER run it dry and always use distilled/demineralised water .  

Again thanks All.

James
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