warwickshiresteam
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New member - needs help with paintingHello all. I have been reading this forum for some months and picked up much that is useful and interesting - I thought it about time I joined in particularly as I need a little help!
I'm assembling a "new" Mamod loco made from odd bits etc picked up over the years and wish to paint it in my own livery. Can some one explain the best way to strip. prime and paint the tanks, boiler and smokebox, which I would guess will not all be the same method. In case it may be beyond my abilities, perhaps the "second best way" would be useful to!
As an introduction, I have a 110ft Peco-tracked garden layout and have seven and half Mamod / MSS engines, A PPS Janet, and a Roundhouse Millie (and three battery engines that I promise will not be mentioned again).
Thanks for any help at all
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Les Marsh
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 to the forum from Bournemouth.
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Mamodevon
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Hello, welcome.
I use Nitromores Auto Paint Stripper. It is stronger than normal paint stripper and gets the black powder coating paint off the boiler, smoke box chassis, drag beam, roof and conbustion chamber. It makes quick work of the normal paint on the body as well.
Using paint stripper is best in my experience as it means you don't scratch any of the metal underneith, espcially the brass of the boiler.
Just use nornal safety measures such as rubber gloves, eye protection and plenty of water etc, in well ventillated area.
MD
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Graham-Jilly
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Welcome to the forum from am aussie train enthusiest.
you will find it great here 
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tmuir
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Another welcome from Australia.
Just make sure when you repaint the boiler you use a flame proof paint. If you stay with a mat black its easy to get a flame proof paint but any other colour gets tricky.
The body work does not require heat proof paint as it isn't exposed to direct flame so pretty much any paint will do on that.
Good luck on your rebuild.
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Mamodman123
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Like above
you can use Halfords spray paint for the tanks, they may require a little baking in the oven for an hour or two. Halfords paint is not suitable for the chamber, chassis or anything on the other models such as the TE1a.
Welcome to the forums
MM
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CCairns
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Welcome to the Forum.
We look forward to meeting your 7 & 1/2 Mamod/MSS locos, plus the PPS Janet & Roundhouse Millie in due course.
As suggested above make sure you use Very High Temperature paint on the boiler and combustion chamber. The combustion chamber gets a lot of the heat and flames from the various burners used and being hidden behind the sidetanks tends to get forgotten about.
I've placed several useful instructions for the Mamod locos and their burners in the Steam Reference Library. If you need a copy of these files just PM me your e-mail address and I can send you 7 PDF files I have on these locos which may be of use to yourself.
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warwickshiresteam
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Re-paintsThanks to all for your welcoming messages and suggestions - I hadn't expected quite such a quick response.
Can "bake in the oven" be explained a little more? Temparature and "when" - do you let the paint dry overnight first for instance, or between each coat, or after the primer then after the final top-coat etc.
Thanks
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tmuir
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Re: Re-paints | warwickshiresteam wrote: |
Can "bake in the oven" be explained a little more? Temparature and "when" - do you let the paint dry overnight first for instance, or between each coat, or after the primer then after the final top-coat etc.
Thanks |
Most heat proof paint must be slowly brought up to temperature to 'cure' the paint before it comes heat proof.
It usually tells you the heat and the times on the spray can but basically get the painted part and about 24 hours after the last coat has been applied hang it in your i\ovan with some wire so its not touching anything and heat for 30mins at say 90C and then another 30mins at 120C. This hardens the paint to make it heat proof.
Each brand is a bit different with the heat and time so just follow what it says on the can.
Just remember when you 'bake' the boiler you will have to of removed the perspex sight window and do not exceed the melting point of the soft solder.
When you are baking it, it will smell a little but once you have removed it from the ovan the smell quickly goes away but just don't bake a part just before you plan to use the ocal for food.
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Mamodman123
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Re: Re-paints | warwickshiresteam wrote: | Thanks to all for your welcoming messages and suggestions - I hadn't expected quite such a quick response.
Can "bake in the oven" be explained a little more? Temparature and "when" - do you let the paint dry overnight first for instance, or between each coat, or after the primer then after the final top-coat etc.
Thanks |
After its all done
Wack it in the oven start off at the lowest temperature for around an hour on my mums thats 50 deg C and keep going till it gets up to around 120 for a loco.
It'll help remove the paint smell aswell!
There are no heat temps or times on halfords cans but it is ok to bake! Trust me
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warwickshiresteam
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many thanks for all the suggestions, think there's enough there for me to have a go
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Spule 4
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I used Methylene Chloride and it took the paint right off, nasty stuff, but works well like most nasty stuff. 
Paint, I used a "pot" of US BBQ paint, made by Rust Oleum, but sold by the ACE hardware chain here in the US as the RO brand only comes in "quart" containers Vs Ace having 2.0 OZ small containers.
Shot it with an airbrush, looks good!
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