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oldstuff

Scratch Building

This subject's been getting some play, so merits it's own topic.

I've thought about making a simple stationary engine from everyday odds and ends.
What are the advantages, disadvantages of possible boiler materials? Brass is ideal,
but copper is cheaper and steel pipe virtually free of cost.
niluht

Actually, boiler design and construction is one of the things I hope to learn via this forum.

From the very little I know about boilers, I thought copper was a prefered choice. Better heat conductivity is one reason and another may be better formability (easier to bend into interesting shapes).

Steel is probably low on the list because of corrosion problems- worse with elevated temperatures.

Speaking of boilers, can anyone tell us the difference between T. Cains' book 1 and book 2? I see that both are available and seem to be a good starting point on the subject.

Cheers,
Jeff
Wallace

Good topic oldstuff

With my brother building his scratch built engine, he used copper pipe as the boiler, with soldered end plates, rather than caps.
With my recent finding of Dezincification, I'd prefer copper unless you knew the zinc content of the brass you use.

Other good parts to use are gasfitting parts, esp for taps/throttles.
Bathroom fittings like handrails/toilet roll holders, for brass chimneys/engine frame brackets

I know I've put it up before, sorry i can't find static picture of his engine at the moment, but this one is made from such parts mentioned above.
Also, gal steel for firebox, but burn the gall off outdoors first
Releif valve is from a hot water system. And yes, the engine frame are brackets from toilet roll holders




And the parts he made for his Bing vertical engine below. Only specialised tool he used was a flaring tool

Steve_S

Every time I see a picture of that engine I'm utterly amazed....
yosa

Every time I see it I dribble all over my keyboard.

A work of art.
Sandman

Model engineering at its best , and a credit to your brother Wallace.
Wallace

Cheers guys, I'll pass the info on.

Wish I had the skill. I'm ok with wood, but not too good with metal making, except SE3 burners
tmuir

niluht wrote:

Speaking of boilers, can anyone tell us the difference between T. Cains' book 1 and book 2? I see that both are available and seem to be a good starting point on the subject.

Cheers,
Jeff


Book 1 has more simple engines in it most can be made from readily available material, Only one engine uses castings.
Book two engines are slightly more complex and two out of the 5 in the book uses castings
niluht

Thanks tmuir,

Jeff.
oldstuff

Great vid of an outstanding engine...I admired that engine from visits to your website. Please pass along to him how pleased we would all be to have him stop by and take a bow.

So copper is pretty good choice for scratch-built boilers?
Wallace

oldstuff wrote:
Great vid of an outstanding engine...I admired that engine from visits to your website. Please pass along to him how pleased we would all be to have him stop by and take a bow.

So copper is pretty good choice for scratch-built boilers?


Cheer Chuck, and will pass the info on

He was doing a scratch built vert engine a little while back, but put it aside for a while. things weren't going right for him

I can't see any problems with copper I guess. Strong enough, should last well, and relatively easy to get.
tmuir

Copper is actually better to build your first engine from rather than brass. It has a higher melting point so more forgiving is you hold the blow torch still a little too long, it also dosen't go brittle with age like brass so will last longer but we are talking about it lasting 200 years instead of 80 - 100 years.
sparky

yeh maby even a bit longer
oldstuff

How about some ideas for making pistons and cylinders? Materials, techniques?
This seems to be the hardest job, but once solved should be fairly easy to get started.
Wallace

oldstuff wrote:
How about some ideas for making pistons and cylinders? Materials, techniques?
This seems to be the hardest job, but once solved should be fairly easy to get started.


Going on my brothers techniques for cylinders/pistons.

You can either try brass rod and tubing, of suitable size to fit the rod inside the cylinder.
Otherwise 2 different diameters of brass rod, and drill one for cylinder.
sparky

we had a go at making an engine each at our school it was a good laugh
oldstuff

Future steam engine or at least a couple large boilers. Visited friendly neighborhood
plumbing service and left with a few "treasures". It'll be humourous to make a nice
steam engine from someone's old toilet!


Also make a cool part of "before" and "after" pics.
Mamodman123

oldstuff wrote:
Future steam engine or at least a couple large boilers. Visited friendly neighborhood
plumbing service and left with a few "treasures". It'll be humourous to make a nice
steam engine from someone's old toilet!


Also make a cool part of "before" and "after" pics.



Would be funny
tmuir

oldstuff wrote:
Future steam engine or at least a couple large boilers. Visited friendly neighborhood
plumbing service and left with a few "treasures". It'll be humourous to make a nice
steam engine from someone's old toilet!


Also make a cool part of "before" and "after" pics.


I've got a selection of copper pipes waiting to build something with.
In a freight yard in Perth that is no longer used there is a control tower that will be demolished that has the old brass vacume tube message system in it.
I keep reminding my contacts in the railway when they demolish it to save the brass pipe for me and I will trade it for beers.
Steve_S

oldstuff wrote:
It'll be humourous to make a nice
steam engine from someone's old toilet!


Can't wait to see the outcome of this project!

Seriously though, there are some very useful bits of pipe there, for boilers or Bowman style burner tanks.

It occurs to me, though, that if I brought home treasures like that then the other members of this household wouldn't look quite so kindly on them!
oldstuff

Steve, I'll need help from you and the fellows. Doing the boiler should be easy.
But, having neither a lathe nor a drill press, the piston and cylinder work seems out of my reach.
And, my level of experience with those machines is only that I can identify which is which.
There is a neighbor who I think has both machines...may have to see him.
Wallace

oldstuff wrote:
Steve, I'll need help from you and the fellows. Doing the boiler should be easy.
But, having neither a lathe nor a drill press, the piston and cylinder work seems out of my reach.
And, my level of experience with those machines is only that I can identify which is which.
There is a neighbor who I think has both machines...may have to see him.


Looks like you have some good materials there mate.
I picked up a whole heap of copper pipe at work on Friday, that isn't being used. Stuff from the pump shed. But the prices it's pulling at scrap metal yard, I could sell and maybe get another flatbase I'd keep it, but have no use.

It's easy for me to say, as I haven't done it, but my brother used a drill for a lathe. Same idea I guess. His tools were a good file (good being the magic word here), and a very fine tooth hacksaw.
He does have a drill press though.

If you can get access to a lathe, that'd be great, but if not, a drill
Steve_S

For cylinders and pistons I think the easiest way is to buy some brass rod and tubing that is a close enough fit without needing any lathe work. At the model shops here, where they sell brass tubing and extrusions of various shapes and sizes, its possible to find tubing and rod which is a very good fit. If the rod was slightly too small for the tube you could make a groove around it then use some cotton soaked in oil as packing. Some factory made engines have that groove, though sometimes its only intended as an oil retainer without packing. Anyway, its always fun to experiment! That's one of the best parts of this hobby for me!

Edit: Wallace's suggestion of using a drill and fine hacksaw or file would be ideal for making the groove.
oldstuff

Thanks to your tips it looks more doable now! Backtracking for a moment to the
boiler...what about threaded inserts for a safety valve, water level plug. I was
thinking threaded brass lamp rod might work.
Steve_S

oldstuff wrote:
Thanks to your tips it looks more doable now! Backtracking for a moment to the
boiler...what about threaded inserts for a safety valve, water level plug. I was
thinking threaded brass lamp rod might work.


I don't see why not... if it's the right thread size for the safety valve. But if you're going to buy a safety valve, a Mamod one for example, then why not buy the threaded insert to go with it?
Wallace

Here are some Chuck

I think there are for the smaller type safety valve (ie, MM2, MM1 etc)
The larger are 3/8" I think

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FS-MAMOD-SP...mdZViewItem?hash=item140059821271

Just have to take into account your boiler thickness compared to Mamod
oldstuff

Thanks, it may come to that. But for now I'm going to try scratching these as well.

I made a good safety valve for a MM2 once and was pleased with it. The main part
is knurled and I think it is a fitting from a lamp. I only had one, so I'll take it apart
and bring it to a nearby lighting store and see if they have something like it.
It'd be nice to get this in brass.

They may also have threaded tube for making boiler inserts. My first thought
for this was why not simply solder a nut over a hole in the boiler...?
Steve_S

oldstuff wrote:
My first thought
for this was why not simply solder a nut over a hole in the boiler...?


That's exactly what I did for the filler plug on my M140. Just make sure it's secure!
steamyjim

my grandad made me a exact replica bowman safety valve for one of my engines
oldstuff

Progressing slowly, I've removed the pipes and returned the joints and
elbows back to my plumber friends.

I'm going to start off with the brass pipes. After freeing the pipes, I cut
the longest into 2 equal parts. Each one is 1 1/2" in diameter and about 4 1/4"
in length, so it'll end up being slightly smaller than a Minor 2's boiler.

At Home Depot I saw some nice brass sheet, disguised as a Kick Plate, 6" X 30",
a customer...not me, had torn the package, so it had been marked down
nearly by half. I bought it for about $12, and cut some disks to make end
caps. Using tmuir's Tubal Cain method, I put some MAPP gas to 'em and formed
the caps tonight. Still got some finishing to do on the edges but it was nice
to see it come together. They wont win any beauty contests, but they'll do the job!



Oh yeah, the coffee tin was to be used for a firebox but it's a tad too large
for the small boiler. The other bits: three "reducers" are from a lighting store,
3 for $2.48. I think they're used to adapt the lampshade stud for larger finials,
I bought 'em to use as inserts on the boiler for safety valve, water plug, and
maybe a whistle.

Also shown are two, knurled "battery nuts" and a lampshade stud,
for making a safety valve and/or water plug.
tmuir

Caps look great Oldstuff.
I'm hoping to get a chance to make a burner for my scorpion engine this weekend and will use formed endcaps for the top and bottom of the burner.
oldstuff

Thanks, Tony. Do you mean to use brass end caps? Brass is a bit of work to form,
as I found out tonight, but it polishes up so well, it would make fine looking burner.

Depending on how large the firebox opening is, you could use an old round tin.
I've seen some salve tins, sewing needle tins, candy mint tins that would make
good burners. I wanted to use one them for a burner for my Falk verticle but need
smaller ones to fit in that firebox.
SPOKESMAN

oldstuff wrote:
Progressing slowly, I've removed the pipes and returned the joints and
elbows back to my plumber friends.

I'm going to start off with the brass pipes. After freeing the pipes, I cut
the longest into 2 equal parts. Each one is 1 1/2" in diameter and about 4 1/4"
in length, so it'll end up being slightly smaller than a Minor 2's boiler.

At Home Depot I saw some nice brass sheet, disguised as a Kick Plate, 6" X 30",
a customer...not me, had torn the package, so it had been marked down
nearly by half. I bought it for about $12, and cut some disks to make end
caps. Using tmuir's Tubal Cain method, I put some MAPP gas to 'em and formed
the caps tonight. Still got some finishing to do on the edges but it was nice
to see it come together. They wont win any beauty contests, but they'll do the job!



Oh yeah, the coffee tin was to be used for a firebox but it's a tad too large
for the small boiler. The other bits: three "reducers" are from a lighting store,
3 for $2.48. I think they're used to adapt the lampshade stud for larger finials,
I bought 'em to use as inserts on the boiler for safety valve, water plug, and
maybe a whistle.

Also shown are two, knurled "battery nuts" and a lampshade stud,
for making a safety valve and/or water plug.


Thats a hefty looking bit of brass for the boiler , Chuck - thick gauge!

I have access to large sheets of brass - around 700mm x 600mm they are old 'brass jackets' from printing cylinder on our SRA2 press. I have bout 3-4 of them, too good to throw away, brass is a little too thin for boilers, but ideal for fabricating fireboxes etx or anything else.
tmuir

oldstuff wrote:
Thanks, Tony. Do you mean to use brass end caps? Brass is a bit of work to form,
as I found out tonight, but it polishes up so well, it would make fine looking burner.

Depending on how large the firebox opening is, you could use an old round tin.
I've seen some salve tins, sewing needle tins, candy mint tins that would make
good burners. I wanted to use one them for a burner for my Falk verticle but need
smaller ones to fit in that firebox.


I thought about using little tins for the burner but to be honest want to make it with ends caps as it will be made of thin guage brass so will be easy to work and good practise before I try and make a boiler.
Treating the burner as a little project to see how good (or bad) my metal bashing skills are before I try something harder.
Managed to get wicks of 3 different sizes in 1 foot lengths of Friday so have everything I need to make it now.
Wallace

Great work there chuck, coming up nicely, you've done well mate!

Going to be great to watch the progress
Mamodman123

A lot thicker than a mamod boiler
yosa

Really impressive stuff Chuck, looking forward to further progress reports, and the finished article.
oldstuff

SPOKESMAN wrote:
Thats a hefty looking bit of brass for the boiler , Chuck - thick gauge!


Well spotted! It is a chunky one. Could almost make a cylinder out of it...
imagine the boiler I'd need then!

SPOKESMAN wrote:

I have access to large sheets of brass - around 700mm x 600mm they are old 'brass jackets' from printing cylinder on our SRA2 press. I have bout 3-4 of them, too good to throw away, brass is a little too thin for boilers, but ideal for fabricating fireboxes etx or anything else.


They are sheets, not tubing? Good for end caps? I can't see the thickness for myself,
but we're dealing with such low pressures. One company even produced engines
from aerosol cans, so you might could give it a go?
Mamodman123

The thickness of the brass won't make too much difference. Mamod boilers are suprisingly thin, well thinner than you would expect, but very strong!

The only place things can 'go wrong' is at the soldered points (end caps, threads etc).
Steve_S

Chuck those caps look great! That's something I've never tried to do so I'm very interested to see them. I'll certainly be having a go myself.
oldstuff

Thanks for everyone's kind words of support. I see 'em up close and think they're
a bit clunky but it's my first try. I don't know why I should expect 'em to look like
factory...I'm using a torch and hammer, here!

I'm going to make mistakes and I think made one tonight. I drilled for the safety
valve but positioned the hole a bit too close to an end cap. After it was done I
thought, sh*t, now when I solder on that cap it could melt solder off the insert!
We'll see...I've got a 2nd brass tube if needed.

I've got some 30-30 bullets and looked at them as potential cylinders but this
caliber looked tapered, so I mic-ed it and they are. I don't think all bullet casings
are, though. It might look a bit odd walking into to a gun shop with a brass
rod asking for an empty cartridge casing that fits it tightly!
tmuir

I just nocked up a end cap out of brass for my burner, still need to do the other one yet.
I used very thin brass 0.01 inch I think it is.
That made it hard to fold the edges over without creasing it as even with a small nylon hammer it was easy to bend it over too far and crease it. Its not perfect but it will do for the bottom.
Only thing that was really upsetting about it was I failed to notice a solder spot on my soldering block and managed to fuse it into the brass and I dont think I can completely remove it.

Had to aneal the brass about 8 times before I had completed, still have to even up the edge on it and will do that once I've made the second one. No photos at the moment will take a pic once both are done.
SPOKESMAN

tmuir wrote:
I just nocked up a end cap out of brass for my burner, still need to do the other one yet.
I used very thin brass 0.01 inch I think it is.
That made it hard to fold the edges over without creasing it as even with a small nylon hammer it was easy to bend it over too far and crease it. Its not perfect but it will do for the bottom.
Only thing that was really upsetting about it was I failed to notice a solder spot on my soldering block and managed to fuse it into the brass and I dont think I can completely remove it.

Had to aneal the brass about 8 times before I had completed, still have to even up the edge on it and will do that once I've made the second one. No photos at the moment will take a pic once both are done.


Look forward to the pics Tony!!
tmuir

Ok.
I've just 'knocked' up the second end cap for my burner. I don't think anyone would give me a job of a boiler maker but I think they turned out ok for my first try and I do think working with real thin brass actually made it harder to form as it was very easy to bend it 'too far' with each gentle tap causing kinks, but we live and learn.

For those interested I used 0.01 inch thick brass sheet or for people like me who missed the imperial system I've just measured it with my vernier and it is about 0.3mm thick.

I still need to even up the open end of the caps so they are a bit uneven on the ends.
You can see the wooden forming blocks I used behind the caps. The wood is Jarrah a local Western Australian hardwood that most of my house is built from and any wooden railway sleeper you see in Australia, UK or South Africa are made of Jarrah too. Its a very tough wood. If you look closely you can just see the wood block on the left has had the top edge filed smooth to make the bend gentler in the brass. I used a small Nylon hammer for the work and had to aneal each piece about 8 times during the process.

tmuir

Well I'm learning tonight I still need a lot of practice at silver soldering.
Made a tube 25mm high to fit inside the end caps from 0.005 inch thick brass sheet. Silver soldered that up fine but have made a right mess of silver soldering the base to the tube. It leaks. Got it soaking in the pickle to clean it up and then will try and fix it.

The top I will probably just solft solder on as its easier and would not be such a disaster if the top comes unsoldered from the heat as it would if the side or base did. Last thing I want is burning metho leaking out a burner.
oldstuff

tmuir wrote:
Ok. I've just 'knocked' up the second end cap for my burner.


Jeez, they look great, Tony...trade ya?
tmuir

oldstuff wrote:


Jeez, they look great, Tony...trade ya?


Shame about me effort at silver soldering it to the barrell.
There will be no close up of the burner but hopefully the burner will work well enough to fire up my Scorpion. Will hopefully finish it on boxing day.
Wallace

oldstuff wrote:
Thanks for everyone's kind words of support. I see 'em up close and think they're
a bit clunky but it's my first try. I don't know why I should expect 'em to look like
factory...I'm using a torch and hammer, here!

I'm going to make mistakes and I think made one tonight. I drilled for the safety
valve but positioned the hole a bit too close to an end cap. After it was done I
thought, sh*t, now when I solder on that cap it could melt solder off the insert!
We'll see...I've got a 2nd brass tube if needed.

I've got some 30-30 bullets and looked at them as potential cylinders but this
caliber looked tapered, so I mic-ed it and they are. I don't think all bullet casings
are, though. It might look a bit odd walking into to a gun shop with a brass
rod asking for an empty cartridge casing that fits it tightly!


That is a great idea with the bullet casings mate.

Something I never thought of.
I just had a look, and without measuring, the .308 casings don't appear to be tapered. Well the top part for bullet is, but cut that off, and down lower it might be an ok cylinder??

I have seen a big bore rifle before, where the casing was similar to a .38 or a .44 pistol, only longer?
Sure there'd be something in a gun shop mate.

Tmuir, those end caps are great
SPOKESMAN

Tony - why dont you just soft solder the end caps?, which look very good by the way!
tmuir

SPOKESMAN wrote:
Tony - why dont you just soft solder the end caps?, which look very good by the way!


The top I will soft solder but as this is for a 'pot' burner in a verticle didnt want to completely soft solder it due to Oldstuff story of a soft soldered burner coming unsoldered whilst running.

Its good practice to improve my silver soldering anyhow on a small item before I attempt to make a big boiler.

My burner is a bit of a disaster from my silver soldering but I did learn a lot doing it and it is now meths tight even though it looks terrible.
Steve_S

Tmuir those endcaps look very good to me! I must have a go. I need to make a circular Bowman style burner for the M158 so this may be the way to do it... worth a try anyway.
tmuir

I've finished the burner and this is the only picture I will ever show of it.
I did a terrible job, it looks absolutely crap but on the plus side it works great. When I first lit it I had the wicks about 4mm high which gave too big a flame, lowered them to 2mm and it worked much better.

I have a short vid of the Scorpion running that I will post tomorrow.
On running it I had a small steam leak around the steam pipe on the boiler, will resolder it there tomorrow to fix it.

I learnt a lot making this and if I remake it would make the barrel 5mm shorter to give the flame more space. I may yet add a handle to it.
Anyways here is a pic of my ugly burner doing it's job.

oldstuff

Three wicks, tmuir? Man, it's really putting out some heat, there! Of course, we can't
tell how it looks. But, as I'm learning with my own scratchbuilding adventures,
it's a necessary part of the process...like scraping your knee when you learned
to ride a bicycle. Wait until you see my piece a crap when it's done...
...you won't feel so bad then!
tmuir

Yes it was a good learning experience. I feel much more confident at making end caps now and best of all I can now run my scorpion. I just resoldered the steam pipe that was leaking so will give it another run today.
oldstuff

tmuir wrote:
Yes it was a good learning experience. I feel much more confident at making end caps now...


Well, I learned something from your end cap work. Next time, I'm going to allow
for more "lip", like you did. I think I'll also make wood blocks slightly larger than
boiler because as I hammered the lip of the cap, it would sink into and compress
the wood resulting in a smaller than desired cap, too tight a fit.
tmuir

What wood were you using.
Make sure its a hardwood.
I used Jarrah which is a relatively cheap hardwood here as its local and I also do a bit of woodworking so had scraps of it lying around.
Just make sure you use the densest hardwood you can get your hands on without spending a fortune.
Even better if you know a friendly machinest that can turn you up some steel formers.

I also used a Nylon hammer rather than a metal one, dont think that makes much difference accept you are less likely to ding the brass.
SPOKESMAN

Seem to be burning OK in the picture!
tmuir

SPOKESMAN wrote:
Seem to be burning OK in the picture!


Burns fine, works well just looks crap.
niluht

Great jobs guys

Very motivating- I have an ever growing list of "must builds" and no time to get to it
oldstuff

End caps are on, a threaded insert installed and I made a safety valve and a firebox...
Sloppy soldering but at least it's strong.




Firebox needs draft holes and an opening for the burner, then paint with hi-temp.
It helps to get this far; I can visualize how to orient the engine frame a bit better.
Firebox was made from a large candy or popcorn tin, I used a minor 1 as a guide.
The boiler is very close in size to a Minor 1.
Sandman

Great work Chuck.

Love the firebox. Will look the part when it's painted.

I'm sure MM will want you to keep it the way it is.

He loves bright colours.
tmuir

Looking good Oldstuff, cant wait to see it finished
Griffin

Nice one Chuck, some really good metalwork there.
oldstuff

Thanks fellas! It's really a clunk, but having fun doing it.

Sandman wrote:
Love the firebox. Will look the part when it's painted.
I'm sure MM will want you to keep it the way it is.


Yes, must keep it original for historic purposes in case I open a plant!
SPOKESMAN

Excellent work Chuck, will look even better when painted.
Wallace

Job well done mate, real nice
flywheel61

Great work, Chuck, looks good. The safety valve is a little reminescent of a cross between the 1938 & 1948 Mamod safety valves.

Cheers

Chris
yosa

Keep it going Chuck. Looks good.
Mamodman123

Loving that firebox
niluht

Nice work Chuck!

Are you waiting to finalize the layout before adding additional fittings to the boiler? I mean water fill, water level and steam line fittings.

Most of the instructions I have seen have you drill all of these holes first. One advantage to doing all of the drilling before attaching the end caps is that it is easier to clean any debris (metal chips or filings) out of the boiler.

Thanks for sharing your progress
oldstuff

niluht wrote:
Are you waiting to finalize the layout before adding additional fittings to the boiler? I mean water fill, water level and steam line fittings.

Most of the instructions I have seen have you drill all of these holes first. One advantage to doing all of the drilling before attaching the end caps is that it is easier to clean any debris (metal chips or filings) out of the boiler.


Quite right, Niluht. I haven't made up my mind. I may keep it simple and just pop in
a steam line and save the fancy stuff for the next model. This one is pretty crude
and although I'd like to see a water plug, fancy steam fittings, whistle, and maybe a
chimney...it'd be like putting perfume on a pig!
yosa

Your decision Chuck, but I think you've started a really nice little engine there, don't downgrade it mate, I'm loking forward to seeing the final result.
niluht

yosa wrote:
Your decision Chuck, but I think you've started a really nice little engine there, don't downgrade it mate, I'm loking forward to seeing the final result.


ditto.
Steve_S

It's looking good Chuck! It's a very interesting project... a beautiful pig... one that'll fly! Can't wait to see how it progresses, and as you imply, the next one will be even better!

I'm still thinking about the proposed Minor Twin replica... one or two other things to finish off then I'm going to have a go at that.
oldstuff

Well, that takes are of naming it, I'm calling it THE PIG. I haven't visited the forum
recently 'cause I've been working on it. I scratched out a piston, cylinder and a block...



The piston was cut from 1/4 rod stock and is same diameter as a Minor 1. The rod
is a simple nail...later I flattened the end with a vise and drilled a hole for the crank.
The cylinder was cut from 9/32 tubing and I soldered some sheet over one end
and trimmed off the excess with a Dremel. The block was cut from 1/4 X 1/2 flat
bar stock and shaped with a bench grinder and a Dremel.
Sandman

The more you show us the more I want to see it run.

Keep up the good work Chuck.

Magic stuff.
Steve_S

Great work Chuck! Those bits look like they'll work fine! I can't wait to see a video of the first steaming... that'll be a very satisfying occasion for you I'm sure!
oldstuff

I thought you'd never ask ...



Well, here I've painted the firebox, rigged up a holder so the burner doesn't jitterbug
off the base. And, by popular demand, added a water level plug and a curious steam
pipe fitting to the boiler(one of those little brass anchors for computer motherboards).
This is the PIG's 2nd run as the first one came out a bit too dark. More to come...
Steve_S

Fantastic!!!
I didn't realise it was ready to go! A forum first I think?
mj

Marvelous, i hope your very proud of that
A mobile next
oldstuff

Perfume for The PIG...



How 'bout that, it's a disk-crank! You can see the wire holder a little bit better,
it came from a lamp shade...one of those loops that clasps the lightbulb! The
boiler strap is brass and was found in back of my plumber friends' store, I think
it's called a hanger - it connects to to the handle and flapper-ball chain in a toilet's tank.
Sandman

Great stuff Chuck.

Don't like the name Pig.

What about "The Chuckle."

You know I like a bit of humour.

All joking aside buddy.
That's some serious home engineering with the barest of tools.

God knows what you could turn out if you had a proper workshop.
Steve_S

And dare I ask how long this one will run for? Or hasn't it stopped yet?
tmuir

Great one chuck,

I want to scratch build one like that but my Lady Anne got to be finished first and my Se3 and coach before I start anything else new.
oldstuff

Another pic of the PIG...



mj: Yes, I'm quite pleased, indeed! No way I'm gonna do a mobile, mate, this little
experiment was taxing enough at times...and yet, one should never say never.

Sandman: The name's not a put-down, SM. I think a lot of this engine now, the
layout is a different and perhaps unique one. After tuning it a bit it runs like a
scalded dog! I'm over the moon with it. Besides, wouldn't you know it...
The Chinese New Year is The Year of the Pig!

Steve_S: Funny you say that...it's only stopped now for pics and replies to the forum.
There were many trial runs with much bending and tweaking of that much-too-thin port
face plate, but on it's last run it was really ripping along! Oh, now I get it...you're teasing
me about my duration runs! Ok, we'll try one and see how long it does.

tmuir: I hope you do make one. For me, it was quite a challenge. I got frustrated in
spots along the way, but the result is most satisfying! I'll look forward to seeing yours!
tmuir

It will be a while before I get around to scratch building one as I have so many other projects on the go but I may treat you all to another Vid of the Lady Anne Chassis running on bicyle pump power again tonight after I've oiled it all up so I can give it a longer run.
I've read about 6 hours is needed to fully run in the loco, thats a long time for me to be on the bicycle pump.
Mamodman123

Wow what a great job Chuck!

Looks a bit Mamod inspired with the disk crank and burner! Well done! its a lovely job!
oldstuff

Mamodman123 wrote:
Wow what a great job Chuck!

Looks a bit Mamod inspired with the disk crank and burner! Well done! its a lovely job!


Thanks MM! Mamod definately inspired it, yet it reminds me of other English models also.

In this vid it's running fast, but the camera can't keep up...it looks like slow motion!
Minor 1 in the background for comparison is getting a shower.
Boiler diameter(O.D.)is the same but mine's about 3/4" longer.

Wallace

That's a great engine Chuck

Well done mate, fantastic.

I haven't looked at the vids yet, as I am at my extreme with downloading a lot of stuff at the moment

But will take a look later

Your should be proud of it
oldstuff

Thanks Wallace. It certainly doesn't have a finished look to it just now, yet there
is some charm. I'm most proud of how well it runs. Smooth, quiet and pretty fast.
A very unexpected surprise, as I used no lathe or drill press. I had a 27 min. run
earlier today and just finished a 23 min. run. A single-wick burner might be a better
fit and it may end up with one. The double wick burner is a hog for alcohol...
good thing it's got a big tank.
tmuir

Chuck rather than make another burner I learnt something on the Bowman Yahoo email group that gives an easy solution.
The 234 Bowman loco has 6 burners and when only pulling a few carrages or on a track with tight turns the burner produces too much heat causing it to go too fast and derail so caps were made the 'cap' individual burners to slow the loco down.
I beleave they are just a snug fit over the wick and wick tube, you could make a similar cap for your burner and then use 1 or 2 wicks depending on whether your going for speed or duration.
Wallace

Chuck, I have seen the vids now.

Well done mate. It's great!!
SPOKESMAN

Just sooo different Chuck! Excellent use of found objects!
yosa

Awesome Chuck. A great engine. Can't believe what it's made from mate.

Really well done Chuck it's brilliant.

By the way, are you any relation to Macgyver?
sparky

yeh brilliant enigne mate, thats just brillaint and looks the best
oldstuff

yosa wrote:
...By the way, are you any relation to Macgyver?


LOL

Thanks everyone!

Capping off a wick is a great tip, tmuir!
niluht

Oink, oink, I love it!
Griffin

Good one Chuck, a well though out design and a very good runner.
oldstuff

Tried running with just one wick lit and just ticked over slowly. This pic shows
the piston(next to cylinder)as compared to a mm1. Minor 1 has shorter rod
but longer piston, both pistons have same diameter, 1/4". Also, by using a tip
from Wallace, I put a hacksaw in a vise to use as a lathe and managed to make
a pulley from what I think is an Erector set wheel minus the tyre.

Griffin

Very impressive Chuck, I do like the pulley you made.
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