MTA
|
Superdetailing VictorRight, pictures this time:
Front view showing buffers removed. From this angle, it looks very much like an Alan Keff steam outline loco...
Rear view, showing where I started to remove the lining with my thumbnail!
Buffers removed, the piece of wood it is on will be made "smooth" and will be used for the dumb buffers.
|
Steely
|
I can't believe how easy the sticker comes off 
|
Mamodman123
|
Came off easily MTA
|
MTA
|
neither could I, I gave it a scrape with my nail, and it just comes off, although in the right light conditions, you can see an outline if where it was. I might just remove the MSS logo and writing, and leave the lining...
|
Mamodman123
|
| MTA wrote: | | neither could I, I gave it a scrape with my nail, and it just comes off, although in the right light conditions, you can see an outline if where it was. I might just remove the MSS logo and writing, and leave the lining... |
Could do MTA!
T cut would make short work of that anyway  
|
Steely
|
| Mamodman123 wrote: | | MTA wrote: | | neither could I, I gave it a scrape with my nail, and it just comes off, although in the right light conditions, you can see an outline if where it was. I might just remove the MSS logo and writing, and leave the lining... |
Could do MTA!
T cut would make short work of that anyway |
Maybe some cheap warm H2O with washing up liquid will do it.
|
MTA
|
The nail shall do! Plus my nail doesnt scratch the green paint 
|
Mamodman123
|
Nitro Mors will get rid of it   And most of your paint, ok all your paint
|
MTA
|
I must admit, I like the green paint now, transformation into Polar Bear will have to wait 
|
Mamodman123
|
| MTA wrote: | | I must admit, I like the green paint now, transformation into Polar Bear will have to wait |
Is it a kit version?
|
MTA
|
no it isn't, as some parts are rivetted e.g. tanks are rivetted to boiler
|
Mamodman123
|
| MTA wrote: | | no it isn't, as some parts are rivetted e.g. tanks are rivetted to boiler |
You mean the rivets on the front of the smokebox thing at the front? They go right through, you can drill them though, They don't have to be steam tight
|
MTA
|
no, the tanks are rivetted at the back inside the cab... its screwed onto the smokebox...
|
Mamodman123
|
| MTA wrote: | | no, the tanks are rivetted at the back inside the cab... its screwed onto the smokebox... |
Ah yes well you can drill them MTA
|
MTA
|
I'm not to keen on the idea to be honest, not that I do need to take them apart (yet)...
|
SPOKESMAN
|
Oh good.
|
MTA
|
When I go into my local model shop sometime this week, I'll be getting some thin brass angle and epoxy resin to make the derailers. I'll find a pic if you don't know what these look like...
|
MTA
|
Derailers are the bars boxed in this picture:
The name suggests what these do! This loco is Prince, from the Ffestiniog Railway in Wales. This is a virtual version on Microsoft Train Simulator, highly recommended!
|
Lewis
|
I have the locos for the ffestinoig railway on TRAINZ and i have the layout its a great loco simulator
|
Steely
|
The hedges don't look very hedge like.
|
MTA
|
| steely wrote: | | The hedges don't look very hedge like. |
It's quite an old program Steels, made in 2000, and no new verion has been released since. Trainz is best fro graphics, although it is slightly more difficult to use, but Microsoft is best for actually learning how to drive! Trainz has a dial you turn, or in the newer versions you can use that or actually be in the cab...
|
Steely
|
Sounds alright. Not as good as microsoft flight sim. 
|
MTA
|
| steely wrote: | | Sounds alright. Not as good as microsoft flight sim. |
I thought about getting it, but aviation is more difficult than driving a steam loco e.g. landing, taking off, maintaining level flight etc.
I have done a bit more on the loco, pics and details to be added soon.
|
MTA
|
Work undertaken:
Red buffer plates and coupling hooks removed FOR SALE PM me please if your interested.
Showing where buffer plates and coupling hooks were.
Cab back showing the MSS logo and "Made in England" slogan removed.
Handrails removed (these are going to a good home )
|
Mamodman123
|
Looking good MTA, nice to see the Mss logo gone 
Wonder where those handrails are going
|
MTA
|
| Mamodman123 wrote: | Looking good MTA, nice to see the Mss logo gone
Wonder where those handrails are going |
Yeh, me too
|
Mamodman123
|
| MTA wrote: | | Mamodman123 wrote: | Looking good MTA, nice to see the Mss logo gone
Wonder where those handrails are going |
Yeh, me too |
They'll be on the flying Scottsman 'Dougie' 
|
MTA
|
| Mamodman123 wrote: | | MTA wrote: | | Mamodman123 wrote: | Looking good MTA, nice to see the Mss logo gone
Wonder where those handrails are going |
Yeh, me too |
They'll be on the flying Scottsman 'Dougie' |
Ahh, the bluey, have you ordered new stickers, or do you want me to make you some?
|
Mamodman123
|
| MTA wrote: | | Mamodman123 wrote: | | MTA wrote: | | Mamodman123 wrote: | Looking good MTA, nice to see the Mss logo gone
Wonder where those handrails are going |
Yeh, me too |
They'll be on the flying Scottsman 'Dougie' |
Ahh, the bluey, have you ordered new stickers, or do you want me to make you some? |
I replaced the one sticker that was damaged. Looks ok now MTA . Could use one for the back cab though, the usual like on your Mss one. Maybe with SL1 on the back
|
MTA
|
| Mamodman123 wrote: | | MTA wrote: | | Mamodman123 wrote: | | MTA wrote: | | Mamodman123 wrote: | Looking good MTA, nice to see the Mss logo gone
Wonder where those handrails are going |
Yeh, me too |
They'll be on the flying Scottsman 'Dougie' |
Ahh, the bluey, have you ordered new stickers, or do you want me to make you some? |
I replaced the one sticker that was damaged. Looks ok now MTA . Could use one for the back cab though, the usual like on your Mss one. Maybe with SL1 on the back |
Give me the line thickness and I'll see what I can do
|
Mamodman123
|
Well you have the line on the back of your MSS loco don't you? so that basically.
Can you do writing? obviously need it in White!
|
SPOKESMAN
|
I know I have been promising for ages - but I will sort out the Mamod logo stuff etc and I will sort out your other requirements!! belive me when you see it you'll be agreed it was well worth the wait!
|
Mamodman123
|
| SPOKESMAN wrote: | | I know I have been promising for ages - but I will sort out the Mamod logo stuff etc and I will sort out your other requirements!! belive me when you see it you'll be agreed it was well worth the wait! |
If you could do the proper Mamod railway stuff for me I would be very very greatful .
You just can't get the stickers these days Mike 
|
SPOKESMAN
|
| Mamodman123 wrote: | | SPOKESMAN wrote: | | I know I have been promising for ages - but I will sort out the Mamod logo stuff etc and I will sort out your other requirements!! belive me when you see it you'll be agreed it was well worth the wait! |
If you could do the proper Mamod railway stuff for me I would be very very greatful .
You just can't get the stickers these days Mike |
I will MM, I am just so busy . . . .
Last thing I want to do is come home after a bastard of a day at the '
puter to do more . . .
You will get this sort of quality . . . I love to do this sort of work.
|
SPOKESMAN
|
Im not interested in being paid either . . .
|
Mamodman123
|
You need a decent printer too!
The one Chav steam has is laughable! he did have water side decals which were professionally made. Then suddenly switched to crappy stickers
You could make a fortune reeling those off though! especially the early ones!
|
Lewis
|
there very good quality mike i could do with a meccano steam enigne one like you say it will be worth the wait
|
MTA
|
| Mamodman123 wrote: | Well you have the line on the back of your MSS loco don't you? so that basically.
Can you do writing? obviously need it in White! |
I think on Mamod's the line is much thicker, the MSS one is 1 mm thick
|
MTA
|
More work carried out:
Whistle removed, possibly for sale, might keep it if I want to change it back
MSS logos on side tanks removed.
|
Mamodman123
|
Get some pics MTA?
|
MTA
|
| Mamodman123 wrote: | | Get some pics MTA? |
Will be up in a minute
|
MTA
|
A little rusty around the bottom, thread is alright, nothing a little oil or rust treatment couldn't solve
Side view showing MSS logo removed (my thumb nail is quite worn now!)
Shot showing hole where whistle once was, will be replaced by 25 psi Safety valve
|
Mamodman123
|
You're cracking on with it MTA!
Whats going in the safety valve hole?
|
Titan
|
Water filling valve I expect.
BTW, 20 psi is more than enough to haul just about anyting that you care to go behind it!
|
Mamodman123
|
| Titan wrote: | Water filling valve I expect.
BTW, 20 psi is more than enough to haul just about anyting that you care to go behind it! |
What are the mamod ones set to?
|
Steely
|
| Titan wrote: | Water filling valve I expect.
BTW, 20 psi is more than enough to haul just about anyting that you care to go behind it! |
Does it improve their performance by that much?
|
Mamodman123
|
if it does i'm ordering one
|
SPOKESMAN
|
| Mamodman123 wrote: | | Titan wrote: | Water filling valve I expect.
BTW, 20 psi is more than enough to haul just about anyting that you care to go behind it! |
What are the mamod ones set to? |
AROUND 15/16 psi.
|
Titan
|
| steely wrote: | | Titan wrote: | Water filling valve I expect.
BTW, 20 psi is more than enough to haul just about anyting that you care to go behind it! |
Does it improve their performance by that much? |
Well Titan runs on 20 psi, and at that pressure it is at the limit of adhesion given perfect rail conditions - that is slightly dirty but without any oil/grease/water contamination. She will slip on clean shiney rails. It gets really entertaining on slippery oily track (often the normal state with steam locos!) with Radio Control to mess around with!
|
sparky
|
nice 
|
Mamodman123
|
| Titan wrote: | | steely wrote: | | Titan wrote: | Water filling valve I expect.
BTW, 20 psi is more than enough to haul just about anyting that you care to go behind it! |
Does it improve their performance by that much? |
Well Titan runs on 20 psi, and at that pressure it is at the limit of adhesion given perfect rail conditions - that is slightly dirty but without any oil/grease/water contamination. She will slip on clean shiney rails. It gets really entertaining on slippery oily track (often the normal state with steam locos!) with Radio Control to mess around with! |
All my track is covered in a black gunk that comes off on my hands when I touch it
|
MTA
|
| Titan wrote: | Water filling valve I expect.
BTW, 20 psi is more than enough to haul just about anyting that you care to go behind it! |
Most probably, I'm considering some other options...
|
MTA
|
Any ideas as to how to get the brass cab window frames out of the cab back???
|
Mamodman123
|
| MTA wrote: | | Any ideas as to how to get the brass cab window frames out of the cab back??? |
They just pop out MTA, you need a small slotted tool. Be careful though!
|
MTA
|
It doesn't matter if I scratch the paint, some of the cab back is being cut out anyway!
|
Mamodman123
|
| MTA wrote: | | It doesn't matter if I scratch the paint, some of the cab back is being cut out anyway! |
They bend easily too! because they are very thin brass. Just prise them and work your way around, that's how I did it when I sprayed mine
|
MTA
|
I'm just trying to find my thinnest slotted end...
|
Mamodman123
|
| MTA wrote: | | I'm just trying to find my thinnest slotted end... |
Some pop out more easily than others
|
MTA
|
These two are abolute b******s to get out Hardly any gap on the outside, and its very thin on the inside, so I keep shaving off pieces of brass trying to get them off
|
Mamodman123
|
| MTA wrote: | | These two are abolute b******s to get out Hardly any gap on the outside, and its very thin on the inside, so I keep shaving off pieces of brass trying to get them off |
You may be able to knock them from the other way MTA
But they should just push out!!
|
MTA
|
Just to show how thin it is at the back:
I just CAN'T get these off, I may mill out the top half, and make it so I can just file out the brass rings.
|
Mamodman123
|
If you don't mind destroying the rings,
There is a small lip on the inside of the back cab, get a screwdriver on that and hammer them out
My Mamod ones came out very easily! but putting them back in was difficult!
|
MTA
|
Well, I was going to sell the rings on, as many other parts of this loco are for sale... But I was actually thinking of making the loco an "Open cab", instead of just leaving the back open. But I will leave it like that for now....
|
Mamodman123
|
| MTA wrote: | | Well, I was going to sell the rings on, as many other parts of this loco are for sale... But I was actually thinking of making the loco an "Open cab", instead of just leaving the back open. But I will leave it like that for now.... |
Leave them with the rings in?
I don't know whether you are interested MTA, but I have an old rear regulator set..... pipes are cut though...... if you want it....
|
MTA
|
| Mamodman123 wrote: | | MTA wrote: | | Well, I was going to sell the rings on, as many other parts of this loco are for sale... But I was actually thinking of making the loco an "Open cab", instead of just leaving the back open. But I will leave it like that for now.... |
Leave them with the rings in?
I don't know whether you are interested MTA, but I have an old rear regulator set..... pipes are cut though...... if you want it.... |
Is that the one that uses the thread where the whistle used to be?
These rings JUST WON'T COME OUT, so they will be milled out, either that or I can chain drill it and file it out...
|
Mamodman123
|
| MTA wrote: | | Mamodman123 wrote: | | MTA wrote: | | Well, I was going to sell the rings on, as many other parts of this loco are for sale... But I was actually thinking of making the loco an "Open cab", instead of just leaving the back open. But I will leave it like that for now.... |
Leave them with the rings in?
I don't know whether you are interested MTA, but I have an old rear regulator set..... pipes are cut though...... if you want it.... |
Is that the one that uses the thread where the whistle used to be?
These rings JUST WON'T COME OUT, so they will be milled out, either that or I can chain drill it and file it out... |
Nope, it uses a new network of pipes that need soldering in .
Complicated... but if you are having a half cab then a rear regulator would be idel, no?
|
MTA
|
I don't really want to meddle with an already good running engine's steam pipes MM... Plus I still haven't learnt to solder It looks like I'm going to chain drill the back half of the cab, and I'll file the rest at school...
|
Mamodman123
|
| MTA wrote: | | I don't really want to meddle with an already good running engine's steam pipes MM... Plus I still haven't learnt to solder It looks like I'm going to chain drill the back half of the cab, and I'll file the rest at school... |
I don't blame you MTA! that's exactly why mine was put back to the original state! especially if you haven't soldered one before
They should just fall out if you cut them out?
|
MTA
|
I'm marking the outline, then the outside of the drill bit edge goes against it, drill, repeat process many times! It's tedious, but I don't like to stay in school for as long as possible
|
Mamodman123
|
| MTA wrote: | | I'm marking the outline, then the outside of the drill bit edge goes against it, drill, repeat process many times! It's tedious, but I don't like to stay in school for as long as possible |
Yeah! I can see why MTA! I wouldn't want to stay too long either
What else are you doing to Victor then?
|
MTA
|
I'll be purchasing some metal rod, and stick them on the tanks and smokebox to represent proper rivets, adding my railway's emblem on to each sidetank, adding a nameplate somewhere, fitting derailers, fitting fire irons with brackets along the right hand side tank, and adding a driver to the right hand side of the cab, and a whole host of other things I haven't decided on yet!!! I'll show each part as made, but I won't show you the finished article 'til february, unless of course February is along way off by the time it's finished...
|
Mamodman123
|
| MTA wrote: | | I'll be purchasing some metal rod, and stick them on the tanks and smokebox to represent proper rivets, adding my railway's emblem on to each sidetank, adding a nameplate somewhere, fitting derailers, fitting fire irons with brackets along the right hand side tank, and adding a driver to the right hand side of the cab, and a whole host of other things I haven't decided on yet!!! I'll show each part as made, but I won't show you the finished article 'til february, unless of course February is along way off by the time it's finished... |
Sounds really good MTA! and I can't wait to see it
|
MTA
|
This will probably be my first major project, if I ever get the money, I'll get another MSS loco and detail that one!
|
Mamodman123
|
| MTA wrote: | | This will probably be my first major project, if I ever get the money, I'll get another MSS loco and detail that one! |
Yup! it's a nice little step up when you do your first proper modding/restoration project. I enjoyed doing my loco's too!. I would definatly suggest getting another one
It's good that you have a nice little working loco too!
|
MTA
|
I think it must have only been steamed about 4 times when I bought it, everything was clean, except burner tray of course!
|
Mamodman123
|
| MTA wrote: | | I think it must have only been steamed about 4 times when I bought it, everything was clean, except burner tray of course! |
How much was it MTA? It looks like a nice loco anyway, will look good after the personal touch!
|
MTA
|
I bought it from my local supplier who always gives me a discount. It was meant to be £140, I got it for £110. The track was about £48 RRP, I got that for £20 That is £130 for loco and track, in cash, saving of £50, not bad really
|
SPOKESMAN
|
Not to be sniffed at . . . .
|
MTA
|
| SPOKESMAN wrote: | | Not to be sniffed at . . . . |
although when I buy something for less than a fiver, he gets out the calculator to work out my discount, and I say "I'm not so petty that I should get a discount on something so relatively cheap!"
|
Mamodman123
|
Not a bad buy MTA! was it a full circuit of track?
|
MTA
|
| Mamodman123 wrote: | | Not a bad buy MTA! was it a full circuit of track? |
yep, a full circle I might paint the wheels while I'm at it... Actually, looking at the loco, I might replace the wheelsets with a set of spoked ones, as I was thinking that at some point the wheels will slip on the axles, as some on this forum has experienced, plus spokes look better
|
sparky
|
yeh i think they do aswell 
|
MTA
|
The drill battery is charged, so chain drilling is about to commence...
|
Mamodman123
|
| MTA wrote: | | The drill battery is charged, so chain drilling is about to commence... |
here we go
|
MTA
|
I'm using a 3mm brass rill bit, although it keeps slipping into the chuck... It's going to be a looooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooong process... If I do give up, I'll just use the mill at school, will be a lot quicker!
|
MTA
|
right, that's it, Milling machine it is I've snapped TWO brass drill bits, and no matter whta drill bit I use, they just slide everywhere
|
Titan
|
Why not just use a hacksaw and saw it off?
|
Mamodman123
|
| Titan wrote: | | Why not just use a hacksaw and saw it off? |
I was thinking the same Titan use a saw for cutting, and a drill for errrmmm drilling?
|
MTA
|
I'm not lopping the top half, just taking the middle section of the top half off, but now you mention it...
|
Mamodman123
|
| MTA wrote: | | I'm not lopping the top half, just taking the middle section of the top half off, but now you mention it... |
Drill a small hole then get the hacksaw out MTA
|
SPOKESMAN
|
| MTA wrote: | | I'm not lopping the top half, just taking the middle section of the top half off, but now you mention it... |
Sounds painful.
|
Wallace
|
| MTA wrote: | | I'm using a 3mm brass rill bit, although it keeps slipping into the chuck... It's going to be a looooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooong process... If I do give up, I'll just use the mill at school, will be a lot quicker! |
Brass drill bits?
Sound like they are meant for drilling wood mate?
Usually for drilling anything more than plastic/wood drill bits are tungsten tip, carbide etc etc
|
MTA
|
I will be going into Bognor Regis tomorrow to get:
Brass strip or brass angle
Epoxy Resin
Fine metal cutting saw
Possibly a dremel or similar
To make the derailers and the saw will be used for the cab back
|
MTA
|
Today I bought:
Brass box section
Brass trip
2 ton Epoxy Resin (thats the strength of it, not how much I bought of it )
To make derailers, I also have a new plan for the cab back, therefore not needing to modify the existing one
|
MTA
|
What the new cab back will be like:
The removable back part will just be a sheet of metal that will be a tight fit in the angle, which I can just push in and out when I need to remove the burner etc.
|
Mamodman123
|
When will that work be done MTA?
|
MTA
|
Next week after school, as I forgot to buy a saw (D'oh!), I've just drilled out my first rivets! The ones that held the cab latch spring onto the cab roof, I'm now going to remove the cab roof, and make a new one from brass or some other springy material that will mould round the curve
|
MTA
|
I've taken the cab off, and I thought "while I'm at it, I might as well take it apart for a clean" which is what I'm going to do. Does anyone know what rivet size these locos use? So I can replace them, either that or I'll replace them with screws... But the one inside the boiler housing might be difficult to put a bolt on
|
MTA
|
Tanks removed
|
Mamodman123
|
| MTA wrote: | | I've taken the cab off, and I thought "while I'm at it, I might as well take it apart for a clean" which is what I'm going to do. Does anyone know what rivet size these locos use? So I can replace them, either that or I'll replace them with screws... But the one inside the boiler housing might be difficult to put a bolt on |
Not sure what size the rivets are but I have a tonne of them that fit from my previous restorations
|
