Alexandra Launch-fitting and finish out

mogogear · Alexandra Launch-fitting and finish out

I will be starting a thread here on what I need to do to finish out my long awaited new launch. She came to me as a "finished" launch , complete with an original Krick /Wilesco power plant. She was well and good but the inside of the FRP( Fiberglass Reinforced Plastic ) Hull was painted Royal blue and shouted" There is fiberglass under here!!" from every rood top.. to match that quirky bit of decorating!! the Salon sported blue colored windows. Luckily I found out that that was merely paper taped up inside.

I won't re-paste a lot of the existing photos of the original condition nor my smiling mug upon receiving it!

So check this link out to catch up on that part of the story

http://modelsteam.myfreeforum.org/about12784.html

This bit will be about helping others figure out the steps to finishing out a hull when faced with fiberglass and how to get something resembling a decent amateur effort. Caveats are as follows:
I have never built a scale model, and I would not classify myself as a extreme and beautiful detail person like Behnard, who has shown us some exquisite details and realism as of late. I am ordinary, have some imagination and some tools and a flock of people to quiz on things ... when I get stuck--which is often!!

I will be adding wood to the inside of the hull, a lower deck, adding things like steps and seats and firebox for scale wood etc. The salon is nothing but a empty shell- so floor, seating, trim to the windows hiding gas tanks , servos etc. The same for the aft outside seating area.

In addition to finish out details, I will be :
*Adding a Maccsteam vertical boiler,
*Building and installing a Graham GAGE TRVA1 twin engine,
*New Bix gas tank and exhaust separator
*Install all the three channels of servos and linkage to make it run the boat. The scale I think is about 1:10
*Learn how to use a more complicate R/C TX!!

This will be the first time doing many of these things and small things really stumped me- so hopefully this can help someone else when they jump in to steam boating!!

So this is the intro and will progress as long as it takes...

mogogear

Ok first :
This is as the boat came to me

Notice the ( or shield your eyes from the BLUE!)

Here it is after the original power plant was adopted my Yellow Jr and a Maccsteam horizontal boiler was sourced

After re-measuring ( measure twice- Buy once.. that is what you are supposed to do...but I am not that smart...) I am trading this boiler for a Maccsteam vertical.. the Graham at 4.5" + the horizontal length was just too much for the space I had. I didn't want a cluttered hull.

So I emptied the hull and threw some questions on to the forums of Model Boat Mayhem, scale Models UK and here to see what was the best way to attach to a FRP hull. The glue that I chose to glue wood to FRP is is Gorilla glue. It has gap filling capabilities ( READ- it expands like foam!) so it increases its size by 3 times. Use gloves with it, it has a amber color wet and dries to a cream color. I removed clamps after 1 hour as it reaches 80 % of bond in that time . Then I cleaned up the edges.

I got the best tip of my "inexperienced" model build life at a local hobby shop..Since the hull I was lining had several compound curves and my expertise with clamps was minimal I was offered this scenario:

Apply the glue, apply the wood , then cover the wood with wax paper, apply a needed clamp or two and finish the pressure application to all surfaces and curved corners etc with a plastic bag of sand inside a cloth pillow case type of bag. My bag weighed about 20 lbs!! I made three of differing sizes and weights.. did I tell you how much I loved this idea!! LOL!!

This moldable weight conforms to all the curves of the wood in question and if the glue should seep out and try to bond to the weighted bag- the wax paper takes the hit- and is easily sanded away if tearing away paper results I hope this is a clear explanation of what was such a wonderfully simple solution.

So the empty hull:

with the aft cavity filled in with resin to solidify the stuffing tube

Now with the first two forward pieces of scribed planking glued in place. I used 1/32 balsa with 1/4 wide scribed planking cost about $3.00 a sheet. the whole boat ypou will see took one sheet

Now I added some cross pieces to support the lower deck( I used 1/2x1/2 basswood for this as I may epoxy in some threaded inserts to affix the deck

Next I took some birch wood (1/4" ) thick and after taking some measurements with a divider I made a template that I could affix over the wood with carbon paper between..Trace it on and cut it out.

here it is in place for the front portion

The joists for cabin floor have been cut and the floor will be next. Also thinking about gunwale details. The most forward area in the bow will have a scaled wood fuel pile stacked in place ( removable?maybe). I have mahogany stain and some teak that I am considering where to use. Mahogany for the floor and teak fro the gunwales seems to match the light and dark coaming and deck..opinions welcomed..

If there is anything anybody wants to throw in from experience- throw away!! I am considering all flooring to be removable - Do i want access under it?/ Mainly my thoughts are concerned about ballast placement etc..

Thanks and chime in where you think I need it!

Steve_S

That looks really good Mo... interesting stuff!

mogogear

Thanks Steve-- A twofold goal-- try to get my boat as close to Moose's and Kusuchi's boats quality look as I can... and to inspire others that find these boats not quite done right hope to pounce on one and get them to an honorable level !!

I hate to see a nice boat not quite make it to the respect the deserve.

Onward through the fog!!... hmmmmm

johnreid

I do think your goal is being met, that is turning out beautifully.

Stitch

What a great thread. Very interesting to read your progress and some great tips

Les

Great tips and just just adding the wood has made a significant improvement to the boat which will look even better when you decide on what stains and/or varnishes you are going to use. Thumbs up!

mogogear

Thanks for the kind comments...The stain question is already looming... I think I may have a vote set up ... as the mahogany will hide oil on the floor and the teak may look nice on sides.. T

To make the scribed planking on the sides stand out better- could I use a pencil to traces the scribed grooves( I assume it wouldn't bleed or be affected by the stain) to give a little definition..

any ship builders in he group?

CCairns

I've heard that using a pencil to highlight planking works OK under a varnish coating, so would have thought it would be OK under staining as well.

But you have got plenty of scrap wood to test this on first before ruining your great workmanship.

logoman

you can do pretty much anything you like; pen, metalic pen, ageing processes, etc, and draw/paint nails, grain pattern and other detail you fancy.

IndianaRog

Mo, holy cow that is turning out nice. Can you advise of your source for the balsa "planking" sheets??? I have a Krick Victoria project staring at me and I'd like to line the hull in the same way.

thanks,
Rog

mogogear

First things first-

Rog- I will see what the name is of the manufacture for the sheets are..If not I will fix you up -- the price is right. In addition to the scribed sheets, there is also profile ship lap in 12 different scales..so stair-stepped like real home siding- down to1/16"

A couple of notes on problem I encountered:

A stuffing box ( prop shaft tube) that was installed at a level that made hiding it under the floor not realistic. So It was going to show. I am thinking of what to do and the obvious maybe just to color it as close to the floor color and move along. So I finished the joists and floor for the salon- most of which will have cabinetry and seating benches on it, projecting up to each side of the hull. These fixtures will be hiding gas tanks and servos , R/C receivers etc. . The front of the salon will have a door offset to one side and the rear door will be centered.

I wanted to document my very rudimentary way of plotting the floor from measurements taken with a simple divider( or pencil type compass would work as well). I used graph paper to 1" scale and transferred my plotted widths at 1" intervals to the paper. I then connected the dots and WA LA- I had a outline of the pattern I needed to cut out.

I then used more old technology ---Carbon paper to trace this onto the wood.. a quick trip to the scroll saw and all was done. I have done the same technique for determining the width and camber fore the floor joists. The joists were glued down with that Gorilla glue.. fine stuff- But remember follow the directions- one surface must be pre-wetted first and you wait 5-10 minutes before assembling and clamping

Here we go--

the pattern ready to be traced

Now the floor was cut and the low rise of the stuffing box made it obvious that I would need to cut the floor in half - lengthwise to be able to install it

I am sure I will need to make these floor boards removable until I can determine what weight I may need to hid under them to balance the boat with the boiler and engine in place etc. I think I am going to recut one side as my eye did me a little wrong - so I might as well make it right whiel I have a chance!! The flooring will need to be at least firm to build the interior on- so they will get screwed down for now.. I am pondering if I need any ballast under the front flooring.. that is where a very heavy Maccsteam boiler will be and now that I am going back to vertical I want some good weight down low to offset and Top heavy tippyness ..

So here is the floor all in place- but still loose

So boards in place and my thoughts will be moving towards cabinetry soon- but things will have to arrive first from Tucson, Wales and Forest Steam.. So I will go back and do other small things like:

*Glue a few washers in place over the rudder tube so that point will be stronger. The original install of the rudder tube was to simply epoxy it where it goes through the hull.. A dry water proof seal is there I but not as durable as I want. I will add about 3 zinc plated washers that will slide over the tube and epoxy into place. Sandwich style.

*Replace the rear most flooring, using the old piece as a template.

*Order my engine from Graham

*Think more on stain colors and where they will look best

So Cheers ( remember anywhere I am leaving question marks 'you are invited to add opinion-stop me if something seems wrong with my logic or what ever--I am no pro- So feel free to help me have as much good input for those that might use this for their first project!! Pace is good here - club member told me today when I was at a club float asking questions... do some work and then rest - then do some more- marathon building sessions tend to allow you do sloppy work... quality over production...I am speaking loudly to my self here

AzRob

Looking very nice!

Roly Williams

That's looking 10 times better already, just by covering up the fibreglass. As for the stuffing box, if you can't hide it, I'd make a feature of it. Polish it up, especially if it's brass or SS.

steamyjim

That looks excellent Mo!!! Looking forward to seeing the finished article.

What about putting a pannelled cabinet around the stuffing box? Often on these private steam yaughts the engine, boiler and running gear were under boxes. The would make it look pretty and stop oil splashes etc

mogogear

Well, it has been a while for this thread. I have finally secured a complete power plant- an older ( but new ) Graupner twin ( very Puffin-esque)- with burner , fuel tank, engine and boiler. Came in it ;s original wood box - with sliding lid!! It was in very nice condition. After all my boiler indecision I feel finally settled.

She fit just right and will be fitted in place with threaded inserts and bolts as soon as I have the ballast installed, and the lower deck planked for more detail and affixed. I will be painting the stack white and finishing a brass cap to top it off as well.

I have run it on air for about 3 hours and steamed it twice- She runs just great!! I will be painting the main parts of the engine a Stuart green. I have also built a oil separator from an old brass airplane fuel tank..I think I showed you all that experiment already elsewhere

mogogear

So here is the Graupner in place and with my finished brass cap in place...still lots to do like stain and finish new inner hull wood work and get my butt on the salon benches and throw the R/C in.

The boiler is about 5.5' long by 2 3/4 " in diameter. The engine Bore / stroke is 7mm - double acting.

A little rear seating section will also be done my Spring

And here is the nice little box and card board sleeve that was over it

All in all it will do me well I think...I get about 25 minutes run time with a full tank of gas..

I need to get caught up--boating season is fast approaching

cheers

BK

"I want one!!"
What a transformation, top job mate.
Will watch your progress with envy

Les

That looks as if it was made to measure, a beautiful steam plant in a beautiful boat, I look forward to seeing her on the water.

tmuir

Perfect fit, I'll loof forward to seeing it chug along in the water.

johnreid

Wow, that is great!

James

That is superb!! What a great thread

mogogear

Thanks fella's..

......it is the self-imposed pressure of trying to get my salon looking like Moose's or Richards that vexes me. I will have to be realistic but get off my duff and design something simple that looks the part and that does a good job hiding the r/c components..

logoman

great work Mo, an lovely union between launch and steam plant.
On the Graupner box the boiler looks like it has Mahogany lagging, but in reality it's another (nicer) timber, do you know what it is? I'm considering timbers now since I want to re-lag my Stuart boiler.

mogogear

Nope Miles- I haven't the faintest idea what wood it is really..

logoman

is that little lagged condenser in the background going in Mo?

mogogear

Benji

Thats looking really nice!

Uh, oh.. the Boat bug is starting to hit again...

MooseMan

Wow Mo, that looks absolutely amazing!!

RocDoc

Fantastic Mo, really fantastic. You must be well chuffed. When will she take to the water?

Pete

alan2525

Covering up that fibreglass has made a huge difference! I must admit when I go to the model engineering and see the launches there, regardless of the quality of the steam plants it really spoils it for me if you can see the exposed fibreglass.

mogogear

Sorry to have been so preoccupied with earning a living

I needed to get back in the shop to regain a little sanity after about 27 airplanes flights since January 1

The good news is to be busy in this economy is a blessing and one not overlooked..

So today's installment deals with:

1.Adding graphite detail to the new scribed inner wood lining so the detail doesn't get lost when stained and varnished.

2.Staining the wood cladding

3.Planking the power plant decking- adding a little detail with some very basic marquetry ... I did "outline the base plate to the boiler and engine, and will add a Jenson insulation sheet in between the boiler / burner and the base plate to insure that no hear damage to the hull occurs and to reflect the heat towards the boiler to maximize the heat to the water a little more

4.Fuel tank:
Painting the fuel tank to look more like the authentic details that Bernard adds- A diesel tank would be more appropriate that butane propane!! I will need to source a few decals to add the final touch

Also adding a heat transfer band to the tank. This will transmit some heat from the burner to the tank to prevent the loss of pressure while under steam. The use of liquid pressurized fuel will chill the tank while converting to a gas. This can cause a drop in pressure and here in Oregon - warm days are far and few between. It is another trick I picked up from the Mayhem site. I cut sheet copper to make the bands and fashioned from scratch. Not perfect but it will get the job done.

So here are the shots..This is what the inner hull looked like before last nights efforts

Notice the light color of the new wood

After some staining and scribing

Here is the deck with the unstained planks in place- the center area is where the boiler plate will sit

A test fit--OK!

The line show up nicely- I used a carpenters pencil and scribed them before the stain ...and then again

Here is the band on the fuel tank after painting

Here is everything in place

adios

Till next time

mogogear

Next up to bat will be......

Some clear coat is next along with some color other than BLUE on the bulks that have that--YUCK!

Adding some vertical ribs the the inner hull for detail- These will be stained in mahogany for contrast

Start with the Salon lay out. I do think simple slat benches like Moose's aft seating will suffice .. but who knows yet. In the salon, a forward and centrally placed wheel "pulpit" will hide the forward / reverse servo and oiling port on the stuffing tube. Receiver and battery will hide somewhere..

Locating the rudder servo under the aft seating or also inside the salon...?

Cheers

johnreid

Mo, you are definitely doing yourself proud. Well done.

Roly Williams

That's begining to look real good.

logoman

Great to see you got some time in the shop, I know what you mean about busy making a living, but 27 flights this year - that sounds like madness!

will you replace the silicone tubing with copper?

mogogear

Thanks Miles..

I will use actually black tubing where I need to. It will be routed differently, first from the engine, to the condenser, then to the stack as usual. I might sleeve it in canvas or woven heat tube for the tsame wrapped look as the steam line..

Later tonight I may get a shot of the newly painted engine( in Cheddar-esque colors..green. And the new SV cap , line and clamp I made for routing to the stack as well.

IndianaRog

Mo, you are doing one beautiful job on your craft...going thru the pictures from early in the thread to now is like watching a real boat being built, same sort of process.

Your attention to detail is superb, you have to be happy with that!

Graham-Jilly

looking great whe is the launch and champagne popping

mogogear

Thanks ladies and gents...

Just stumbling along..imagination,some tools, more than a few dollars, a great forum with a wealth of knowledge and dumb luck .....all things begin to come together!!

Les

You are doing an amazing job, well done.

redryder

Your project is coming along just fine and what started as ordinary will emerge as extraordinary !!!

You might try your local paint/hardware store for some tung oil already tinted with stain. I've never tried it on balsa so a not in the boat sample is worth a try. I have acieved some truly great results on other woods. (Tung oil will harden to a urethane like finish).

Gil

mogogear

The nice comments are appreciated..I really feel that documenting what a non-model builder can do here will inspire or help others over come any feelings of inadequacy when facing the challenges of not knowing what you are doing.

That is me all over!! I know what I like when I see it... so I acquire what I can afford and try to emmulate the things I have seen elsewhere.

Ok- enough for the underwriting part

Here is the steam valve cover and steam pipe. This will direct any over pressure releases up to the top of the stack where they can be seen. I think they look nice too.The arrangement on top of my boiler made it hard to do a subtle low profile pipe job...so this is what I came up with. I also made a small clamp band for the stack.

Rog- - if you could read the fine inscription on top of the cap of the SV- it would read " RUGER 9mm"

It fit so perfectly- I could nit have machined a better fit!! I know you will like that bit of recycling.. I turned the primer end of the casing in my lathe and used a file to round the base after that. I then cut a small piece of brass tube to solder into the primer recess( after removing the old primer) and then soldered my pipe in after I bent it to spec.

Take note-- For amateur pipe benders..( me) Unlike steel or brass - once you heat copper to anneal it so you can easily bend it..You cannot reheat and douse it in water to re-temper it. So once you commit to soft- the only way to regain the temper is to work the metal- sand blasting works - or tapping it or hammering light back and forth bending etc. Crystalline structures and all that stuff- I just thought it a good note to add.

Somebody more gifted in explanation or compelled can expound further...

Here is another angle where you can also see where I painted my Graupner Twin

That stack--I think I want it white....Just VHT header paint?

All for now--Adios'

mogogear

I almost forgot...did anybody notice my improvisation with the windows on the front of the salon ?

I think the boat should have had all windows across the front...Mine was made with just one in the center. I decided to add louvers to look like there were windows. I still need to stain them.

I cut sections of toothpicks and glued them alternately with slats so there will be spacing . I will paint the toothpicks black and stain the slats.....

logoman

Great work there Greg, The valve cap is great, they do improve the look of boiler.

The steam valve wheel on the Graupner is a bonus, so many engines are poorly designed with tiny wheels that are only jus possible to use with gloves: that one looks l a joy to use.

I saw a lagged wheel on an engine once, that was a good idea.

The slats are great, If I ever make a Victoria, I'll put a door there too.

Les

Great to see it coming together. Thumbs up!

mogogear

CuriousSteam

wow some boat you got going there, Looks great Mo, Great work and so detailed.

mogogear

I am calling this week .."revenge on the day job"...

Lots of work done on the salon door. finished the staining on the louvers and place the servos!!

The door has a latch plate and hand hammered door knob / handle. Brass hinge pins and threshold and header.

Cheers

Here is the overview shot of the door area

Up close

And the servos-- I went with a micro servo fro the rear so it will hide under the rear center step / or table

done ..and done...for now

spug103

very nice

johnreid

This is going to be a piece of Art, I envy your abilities.

logoman

if only i could work that quickly!

mogogear

Les

Very good Mo.

Sandman

Coming on a treat Mo.

Lots of work there though.

MooseMan

Wow Greg, that is inspirational work! Must go and get Festina ready for the boating season!

mogogear

Onward with the rear seating and rudder servo area. The servo will be hidden in a centered box with a mahogany lid. I guess it will be a table of sorts. I wanted to make this complete rear area removable... why I am not sure - but I have a phobia about needing to access something under the floor and then needing to tear up things to do that...

So the first shot is of the complete unit removed and lid aside

another angle

here it is installed

I still need to plank the floor, and add a bit of color by painting the box area that is topped by the mahogany lid..something Victorian..The tops of the benches are either going to be slatted or a "cushion of some sort cut and put into place..

The backs for the benches is yet another removal problem to sort out. a back will interfere with removing and may need to be a separate piece all together..

Then the rear door detail..I can't use raised trim to outline the door as I did in front. The tolerances for clearance are too tight. Problem, problems to solve---I love this part.. it is really stimulating to figure this stuff out.

I am sure not at any level of detail to even approach Mooses or Richards launches... but I plan on layering small details over the next year,, brass lamps, wood paneling trim. I can inch closer...

I did discover that I did some bad logic planning on my door on the front of the saloon...can you see what I did wrong? I did at least 2 major things wrong.....

Les

You have been a busy boy, great work so far.

Are the hinges on the wrong edge of the door and the door opens the wrong way??

mogogear

redryder

Geeez Mo........ your steam launch is coming along beautifully !!!

Gil

mogogear

The weekend finished out well.. the tasks to have done were:

1. finish the removable rear seating area

2. Get going on the saloon - servos cabinets and the inside seating started ( ( seating will also hide the receiver)
3. Re-do the saloon door. I had gotten to fast earlier and put the door handle and hinges on the wrong side. Also add a grab bar near the door since that is where the stairs from the port side of the boat will lead down...

So here we go-- the seating as it was..

and what I added to the table lid..

The ends of the seats and trim are glues to the lid that covers the rudder servo. now the entire rear compartment removes in 2 pieces.

Separate--

all together--

Installed

The blue is showing up way brighter than it is -- it likes my flash.. It is about the same color as a Bowman Snipe waterline.

Now the interior. I have a saloon floor that is in two pieces. Split long-wise. I have glued down the starboard side.. but my ballast adjusting phobia makes me want to keep one half removable to adjust weight and location etc..

I started with framing & bead board around the engine servo..and will have a corner mounted cabinet with a sink above the battery pack. The starboard seating just aft of the sink area will hide the receiver

Now for that pesky door..

The long shot..

closer

The grab handle is just brass wire and some small brass sheet. bend the wire, trim a few pieces of sheet- drill two holes-- sand the corner-- silver solder together and glue in place...easy as pie..

BTW -- I am finally learning how to silver solder.. the key for me has been finding the really thin coiled solder. .032" diameter.. cutting small loops, placing them around the wire at the holes in the plate-- applying heat to just the center of the grab bar--and perfect!! Indirect heat to small solder wire..I had solder three ties the diameter before and it took too much heat to get the flow!!

For whatever reason-- I am so glad it is working - that sure is a confidence booster

mogogear

Nothing looks as good close up as Richards Topaz.. you just can't beat a set of plans, knowing what you are doing and a great kit!! Oh well..I get excited, then I see it up close in the photos and lose some steam

..sigh!!

I will finish up the saloon and then move back to the engine area where I still need to add some stairs and some vertical ribs to the inside of the planked hull. This will break up all those planking lines and add interesting detail. Then drill and bolt down the deck ( so I can remove it of course if I need to

)

Then add some grating around the engine, a condenser, and a bulk head in front of the fuel tank. I also bough some scale plasticard railroad placards that say "diesel fuel" for the gas tank and a few other details.

Boating season is right around the corner!! YAY!!

Graham-Jilly

looks great
ill have to stop looking or Ill want one

logoman

you're spurring me on to do some more on my boat..thanks!

btw, what sort of burner does the Graupner have?

Les

Great work Mo, keep it coming.

mogogear

Ahhh D$%#^%$ It- back in the plane...

I jumped ahead with some good inside the salon work and a bit of lathe work.!! I decided to make Bogstandard proud and turned out a better smokestack cap...YAY!

When I get back I'll shall share a update on the before and after of the stack and of the recent cabinetry work in the cabin.

Also to note- I found a great source for many scale things at quite reasonable prices for boats and other diorama's. A doll house and hobby site called:

www.oakridgehobbies.com

I got some great things ordered for a cheap price in my shop- some scale items like checkered flooring vinyl sheet( had a large selection), a captains stool to sit at the helm ( and squat over my oil tube to the stuffing box) and a nice oil table lamp, a Victorian serving tray for the table and some wood grating for the area around my engine to help hide the metal base plate. All those for about $30 US delivered

cheers.. I can't wait to share the smoke cap with you all! It really looks the part

mogogear

Ahh- home again...

So here is the new stack cap... fresh off the lathe a a bit of polishing

And the start of the saloon .. a helm is in place, a corner cabinet and the Starboard bench..The way the saloon angles back and narrows is making my poor abilities show..I do not know how to scale the spacing for the slats to work out right.. things like this will get adjusted as life goes on.. My brain will work on this and I may tear this out in a day or so...knowing me

The battery pack and receiver will fit under the bench seat. I will be using small magnets to hold the seat top in place and will use the same for holding the saloon top in place when in situ underway on the water

tmuir

That's looking great Mo.
I love looking at these boats as looking is about as close as I will ever get to having one.

logoman

Good progress Mo, if the slats on the bench continue to be a problem, you could soft furnish it like in my little launch.

Cabin

mogogear

Yes Miles - once again we are thinking alike..

Either glued upholstery or removing the slats and have them run vertically on the back of the bench......I keep telling myself 'Greg, it is you that likes solving these problems" .....Remember?

BTW Mils - that is a nice launch.. A full shot of it perhaps?

logoman

here you go Mo, she's only 36".
I need to build a bigger burner,
the one i built before only lasts six or seven minutes,
just time to get her to the middle of the pond...

mogogear

Sweet!!

mogogear

Well _ i am heading to the coast and spend the weekend at a friends beach house! I am burnt !! and need a rest..

So the last details for a while are :

I couldn't stand the seating bench looking so poor

.So I ripped the slats off the back and just didn't put them back on . I also finished the helm and cabinet.

I think it at least looks better

The flooring and accessories should be here soon-I think the checked floor will look smart! The lamp, stool and tray also!

And I finished up the rear door trim and latch plate and handle to match the front door

So peering in through the windows- things don;t look so badly now.A little finish out on the inside of the lift-off top and we will be squared away.

Well - time to weigh anchor and head for the Pacific...Cannon Beach -Here We come!!

night

The other bench is yet to be fitted, the wheel of course along with the flooring...Then it is out to secure the power plant to the cross-members. and add some vertical ribs to the hull.

Closer...closer...closer

mogogear

logoman

yes, it is a meths burner Mo.
inside diameter of the stack is 43/64"
A cap would finish it off well, but it only needs a tiny one.

mogogear

A quick few hours in the shop and the postman bringing most of the items I ordered got me that much closer to completion..even though the list still has many items.

Installed inner hull ribs, steps from port and starboard , grating around engine, threaded inserts for boiler / engine to deck.. and preparing for the flooring in the saloon.

Here is an over all now with the ribs giving better detail

The steps

The engine with the grating in place.. I also added brass tubing to the bolts that hold down the power plant. ?? I liked it and it makes them easy to get at... especially at the other end of the boiler where the bolts flank the burner cap.

And the new lamp and flooring( the wooden stool to straddle the oil tube was backordered

Ciao

Roly Williams

That's really coming together now. Love the oil lamp

johnreid

This is turning out to be a real showpiece, I would be afraid to run it as it is so nice.

Les

It is turning out to be a great looking launch.

mogogear

So I was wanting some fenders for the bow and stern.. the sides perhaps too.So I have seen the ones for sales in the UK on Ebay..

Nice - handmade and just the ticket...But since I am trying to learn how to do as much new in the boat world as I can..I decided to try to "KNIT" my own...They are just a crocheted tube ..I have seen little devices that my 6 year old daughter has used in school to do just this thing.

I thought to myself-- a tube- stuffed with something- tied to the bollards will do the trick

So here is what I am wanting..

Here is a site that I found to tell me how to do this..
[url]
http://www.allfreecrafts.com/kids/corker.shtml[/url]

I have to admit that I needed to ask my wife to get me started as the instructions were a bit foggy for me... but, and read this clearly- this was a piece of cake..I assume sailors have been doing this fro years.. so it can be assumed to be manly also

It took me about 3 hours to do the 4 tube s that I then sewed in pairs to make the fenders

Here are the tools I assembled

This is a shot of the first few turns

The tube just starts coming out the bottom hole of the thread spool.

I then stuffed some small diameter plastic tubing inside and tightened the ends. Added the loops. I found that my hull needed something extra to keep them in place.. so I made two tubes and that gave me the design that stayed in place

Here it is - not perfect but -I made it!!

stern

They are not perfect-- but Once again I learned something new

cheers

Les

Very clever indeed and they really suit the launch.

Sandman

Jeez, that takes me back mate.

We did the nails and bobbin thing back in primary school.

What a great way to use it.

johnreid

That is both functional and decorative, worked out excellently.

mogogear

Thanks guys--The tie off ends look rather sloppy- so I am working on making it look a bit better. And it does already look a bit neater....It just was too easy to not recommend. and it will save you 5 pounds or so.

If you can't get it done- barter with a woman friend....if the wife doesn't mind

In a world of steam- I get more satisfaction from making the smallest of things..A lot like Tony and his great little lathe SV and such..just not as breathtaking as Tony's work on his Renown.

I did have to turn a small brass insert to plug a hole in the hull. There used to be a brass fitting installed there to splash the exhaust out the side of the boat.

So the next chapter here.........

1. The "ballast" poured under the saloon floor( 2 pounds of zinc coated Bullseye B.B's) and then saturated with epoxy .( float tested)
2. The servo's are now installed..linkage next
3. flooring installation and the port side bench in progress
4. Ordered my condenser ( actually a brass old-school model fuel tank)

mogogear

A quick turn around to :

Ballast

Flooring

A new white smoke stack!!

And a new armored carry rack!! and poolside prep-cradle

First an ( at least) American boyhood friend Daisy B.B.'s fill in as affordable ballast

now poured and epoxied in place after a tub float test

The new doll house 3/8 x 3/8 checker board flooring is sized and cut and glued into place

The prop shaft was painted black to help hide it-I may enclose it later.. but right now May 9th -first float day at my club is looming close!!

Next the handy dandy transport rack!! Home Depot= 1/2 PVC and some fittings and PVC solvent and some foam insulation for pipe..+ $12!! = a great rack if I do say so myself..

It can be flipped over after you get the boat to the water to use at the pool as a work stand!

With out boat

With boat- ready to transport

Now ready to be worked on to get on the water!!

Note the extension on each end keep me . hopefully , from bumping into things!!I also narrowed one end ( the bow of course) and so the rack really holds the boat firmly.The boat is slid into from the stern end of the rack and is almost a glove fit..

Time for a beer!!

johnreid

May 9 is too long to wait.

IndianaRog

Mo...simply beautiful work. The stuff done with crochet thread really looks proper. The boat itself...well, gorgeous. And the carry device that works two ways...carrying and elevated for working on.

I think a few of us will be checking up on you May 9th!!

Rog

mogogear

Thanks fella's==I am sorry I have posted in small detail so much.I hope I have not come off too proud. My apologies if I have seemed so.

It has just been so engaging to research, learn and then begin to feel confident with the building problems and solutions I was developing. Some of the little "Eureka" moments I wanted to share for others to help them as they encountered the same problems...I perhaps should have thrown them in the tips and tricks forum... but I kept them in one place...

I am sure there will be others new to steam boating that may "bite off more than the think they can chew" with a boat purchase .... have faith...this forum has brought me so far considering a little over a year ago --the memory of steam engines was buried deep in the past for me. My hat is off to all of you that make up this forum..

Boat building and or re-design like this one is not for the faint of heart/... but likewise it is not impossible and is a flatter learning curve than I initially thought. It took me quite some time to overcome the fear of " what I don't know" and just get off my bum and get started!!

Boats are a pleasant blend of woodworking, steam engine fiddling, design, problem solving, a little engineering and artistic outlet all blended together.... I think I now have the confidence I was missing to get committed on the Turbinia build. It will still be my first real start to finish build- kit or scratch built.

So thanks all of your for bearing with this proud papa of a boat ... or two

johnreid

Not too proud or boastful, in fact a bit modest I believe.

Is the 3/8x3/8 flooring paper or a vinyl material?

mogogear

You are kind John..but thank you....better humble than not---and I am "chattty" enough to come off differently than I intend.

The flooring is a vinyl or light styrene -embossed flooring. It came in a sheet 11" x 16".. easy to glue down with silicone caulking.

Easy to cut - with scissors or Exacto knife. I have loads left over and I am happy to supply some to anyone wanting to floor their boat cabin. All you need to do is ask and supply me with dimensions of what you need to cover...Shipping at cost--It might be wise to roll the small amount in a small tube to not bend it or crease it or some other such solution..

Les

Mo, you have done a grand job and your boat stand is very ingenious.

logoman

I've thoroughly enjoyed all your build posts Greg, they are the highlight of the forum for me.

Kev&Mel

That is a really nice looking boat you got there .
Cheers
Kev

mogogear

Guys and Gals - So close to finishing..I can almost taste it!!

1. Linkage to all servos and corresponding boat controls all hooked up.

2. reworked the SV vet to the top of the stack( the new white paint just was going to get marked up clamping and un-clamping the bracket)
3. The port bench, insides of the doors- rear step to the aft seating all done.
4. Decided the blue I had chosen was too bright- toned it down and painted the balance of the inside saloon walls.

Here we go -- new SV set up

The engine linkage

Lots of saloon shots

Adios again

Last thing to do is maybe add a plastic aft flag pole to run my RC antennae through --also add a flag..and a test run / shake down cruise prior to the club debut.!!!!!! O h - I forgot.. install the condenser tank and lines.

I also need to build a proper stand for home as she will be out of dry dock soon!!

Les

That is great, well done indeed, eagerly anticipating the the first video of her getting her 'bottom' wet.

Sandman

I too am looking forward to the launch.

Exquisite job.

mogogear

After the sheep sighting.....( see the off topic thread on James' adventure)

I got back to work on :

Cleats

Chocks

A ships wheel

and as flag pole and brass holder

The hobby shop I patronize only buys fittings once a quarter Shooting

So they only had 4 of the first cleats I bought( 15mm) and 2 more of a different design

And the chocks they had were only made of zinc.. not brass to match all the other fitting..I personally think that is pretty dumb..but it is their company.

So I resorted to more improvisation..I bought some 5/32 brass T bar and made my own-- they turned out pretty good if you don't look too close!!

You can see the steps I took to walk them towards where I needed them to go. Simple cut off and slot with a Dremel wheel and some file work.. buffed and glued into place!!

Installed at the bow

and the aft ( also see the brass flag pole holder and pole( with antennae inserted) flag next

And last but not least my ships wheel and the oil port slip cover ...Indiana Rog... the top part of the post is a 22magnum brass shell casing -- spent brass is handy!!

adios....

Les

Very clever with your improvisation on the cleats.

kno3

Mogogear, congratulations on your careful work. Your boat turns out very nice.

There's just one thing missing, a steam whistle. Now you might say that's unnecessary, but it's great fun to have one. People's reactions when they hear it are priceless.

MooseMan

Greg, you never cease to amaze me......

And I agree with KNO3....she needs a whistle!