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steamgranny

Oil removal - for Bégé

Bégé has just acquired an old Davies Charlton Stirling engine that has been drowned in oil instead of graphite & obviously doesn't work anymore - it's even dripping oil out of the air control screw hole
His question is: how to best remove the excess oil, especially on the displacement piston which is inaccessible without removing the heat cap at back & obviously not keen on doing that?
For pics of what I'm on about, see here:
http://www.blooo.fr/vapeur/ma_mac...vies_Charlton/Davies_charlton.htm
Cranko

I cant understand that , was it written by a northerner
johnreid

Alcohol would remove oil, but if there are any Gaskets it could dissolve them. You might Steam clean it.
steamgranny

johnreid wrote:
Alcohol would remove oil, but if there are any Gaskets it could dissolve them. You might Steam clean it.


'Steam clean'.......hmmm.....that might do it Not sure if there are any gaskets in there.
Thanks for the ideas, will pass on.
IndianaRog

I would personally use automotive carburetor cleaner with a spray tube that inserts in the nozzle. Widely available in auto parts stores and auto dept. of stores like Walmart if those are in France.

Two cautions:
1) wear goggles in case it sprays back in the eyes

2) protect the painted surfaces unless they are to be repainted...the stuff can remove of damage some paints

It is purposely made to dissolve oily "gunk"

Hope this helps.
Rog
steamgranny

Thanks Rog. I've no idea what that stuff is in French but I expect Bégé will
(And we haven't yet been invaded by Walmart but have plenty of equivalents! )
Mister Occlusion

Varsol maybe?

Pretty mild stuff as far as solvents go, and itself pretty much washes up with hot hot water.

At least that's how we used to get the oil off of new brake rotors and such at the shop I worked at: a scrub in the varsol tank, and then a run under the hot water tap in the sink
steamgranny

Mister Occlusion wrote:
Varsol maybe?

Pretty mild stuff as far as solvents go, and itself pretty much washes up with hot hot water.

At least that's how we used to get the oil off of new brake rotors and such at the shop I worked at: a scrub in the varsol tank, and then a run under the hot water tap in the sink


Thanks & appears Varsol is available here
Mister Occlusion

You're welcome... But make sure to read up on it to make sure there's no chance of it attacking anything that might be in the engine. I only ever used it to degrease bare metal.

....oh, and it works a treat to get tar off of the rocker panels on the car
tmuir

AH one of the early PM research engines, I want one of them.
Cranko

eware of some of these degreasers as they are very aggressive and disolve a whole heap more than grease
tmuir

Cranko wrote:
eware of some of these degreasers as they are very aggressive and disolve a whole heap more than grease


Yes I discovered the degreaser that I've used on my mobiles disolves the silver paint on the engine frame base on the SP range.
Stilldrillin

Re: Oil removal - for Bégé

steamgranny wrote:
, especially on the displacement piston which is inaccessible without removing the heat cap at back & obviously not keen on doing that?


Doesn`t the heat cap unscrew, the same as our PM research engines?

I unscrewed mine and cleaned it out the other week, using brake cleaner spray and a gentle blast of compressed air. I then let it stand overnight to evaporate any spare solvent.

I lubed the power piston with graphite, as instructed, and now it runs a little too fast for my liking!
steamgranny

Re: Oil removal - for Bégé

Stilldrillin wrote:
steamgranny wrote:
, especially on the displacement piston which is inaccessible without removing the heat cap at back & obviously not keen on doing that?


Doesn`t the heat cap unscrew, the same as our PM research engines?

I unscrewed mine and cleaned it out the other week, using brake cleaner spray and a gentle blast of compressed air. I then let it stand overnight to evaporate any spare solvent.

I lubed the power piston with graphite, as instructed, and now it runs a little too fast for my liking!


Yes, the heat caps are removable/replaceable, not that I've done it yet & was therefore unaware that they actually screwed in/out but think Bégé is wary of doing that due to age of machine & maybe inability to get a replacements should it break. They look identical size to the replacements sold by PM Research but are they??!!
However, that is interesting info & did you lubricate the displacer piston afterwards & if so, what with? (It is the 'displacer' piston on heat cap side, isn't it?)
mc_mc

WD40 might do the job, I've used it clean up oily gunk. It's a very light oil and will evaporate eventually. Certainly won't do any more harm.
Roly Williams

mc_mc wrote:
WD40 might do the job, I've used it clean up oily gunk. It's a very light oil and will evaporate eventually. Certainly won't do any more harm.


When WD40 evapourates, it leaves behind it's own oily gunk!

Alcohol is what I'd try first. Squirt it into the cylinders and turn the flywheel for a couple of minutes to swurl it around.

If necessary, leave it to soak overnight.
steamgranny

Thanks Roly & everyone else, I'm translating & passing on to Bégé, as your thoughts & advice comes in
Stilldrillin

Re: Oil removal - for Bégé

[quote=However, that is interesting info & did you lubricate the displacer piston afterwards & if so, what with? (It is the 'displacer' piston on heat cap side, isn't it?)[/quote]

No lube on displacer piston, only "3 in 1" outside the cylinder, where it`s rod exits, to help seal / lube the sliding shaft.
steamgranny

Re: Oil removal - for Bégé

Stilldrillin wrote:


No lube on displacer piston, only "3 in 1" outside the cylinder, where it`s rod exits, to help seal / lube the sliding shaft.


That's what I thought (& what I do) & thanks for confirming
steamgranny

An update on Bégé's oily trials & tribulations
He finally plucked up courage to remove burner cap - successfully. And oil was cleaned out equally successfully with Acetone, taking care to keep clear of any paintwork.
The only problem now is acquiring some graphite for power cylinder & the little dedicated meths burner that is not heating too well, with flame apparently too close to heat cap. But further tinkering plus a wick change will occur tomorrow & essentially the old Charlton Davies hot-air engine is in quasi-functional state once more.
IndianaRog

SG...a quick source of graphite usually at hand is to take a pencil lead and pulverize it with a hammer...making a fine black dust of it. That is all graphite actually is...just make sure it is finely pulverized and I put it on the needed surfaces with a cotton bud dipped in it.

Good to hear Bege got his Oily problem resolved.

cheers,
Roger
steamgranny

IndianaRog wrote:
SG...a quick source of graphite usually at hand is to take a pencil lead and pulverize it with a hammer...making a fine black dust of it. That is all graphite actually is...just make sure it is finely pulverized and I put it on the needed surfaces with a cotton bud dipped in it.


Having previously used this tip myself, I've already passed it on, although first time around I used a rasp & was not fine enough. A good bang with a hammer is definitely the answer! But then, it's the answer to most knotty problems
IndianaRog

True SG...a good whack with a hammer will bring wide ranging results when applied correctly
Mister Occlusion

Pencil lead does have clay mixed in with it, however. Softer pencils would have a higher graphite content.

I did once get a bottle of graphite powder from a hardware store. It's used to lubricate door hinges and lock tumblers, etc, so it shouldn't be horribly difficult to find in some form.
IndianaRog

Ughhh, didn't know that pencil lead might contain clay...THAT doesn't sound too good from a wear and tear standpoint!!

Just dug out my tube of actual graphite powder, as something folks who want that sort of thing might find on eBay or the net in general

My tube says the following:
- Name: Powdered Graphite Lubricant
- Maker: Panef Corp., Milwaukee, Wisconsin 53218 USA
- Purpose: lubricate key slots (amongst others)...so it sounds like a product possibly available from lock smith or lock smith supply house?
- Description: Greaseless, odorless, for metal, wood, plaster and rubber
- Net Weight: tube contains 6.5 grams
- Source: Mine came with my flame licker engine from PM Research
Mister Occlusion

IndianaRog wrote:
Ughhh, didn't know that pencil lead might contain clay...THAT doesn't sound too good from a wear and tear standpoint!!

Just dug out my tube of actual graphite powder, as something folks who want that sort of thing might find on eBay or the net in general

My tube says the following:
- Name: Powdered Graphite Lubricant
- Maker: Panef Corp., Milwaukee, Wisconsin 53218 USA
- Purpose: lubricate key slots (amongst others)...so it sounds like a product possibly available from lock smith or lock smith supply house?
- Description: Greaseless, odorless, for metal, wood, plaster and rubber
- Net Weight: tube contains 6.5 grams
- Source: Mine came with my flame licker engine from PM Research


Clay is used in the mix to vary the hardness of the lead and to give it strength from breakage... There's probably also some sort of glue or binding agent in there too, I shouldn't wonder.

Clay is a bit gritty, but clay minerals are still pretty soft, so I don't know if they'd do significant damage even to brass if one used one of the softer pencils especially. In the short term it's just not quite as slippery as graphite so you'd not have quite as good lubricity.

Molybdenum Sulphide (moly) is another dry lubricant that is *very* slippery. It's mixed in with some auto greases and those miracle oil additives that get sold by informercial. I don't know if/how it reacts in this situation, though. I guess if the maker says graphite, then it's best to use it..
Bégé

IndianaRog wrote:

My tube says the following:
- Name: Powdered Graphite Lubricant

Yes,
Thanks IndianaRog
I found that
http://cgi.ebay.fr/Powdered-GRAPH...Z1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem
and that
http://cgi.ebay.fr/GRAPHITE-POWDE...Z1QQssPageNameZWD7VQQcmdZViewItem
But the seller asks £5 for the sending to France, it is very expensive!
Stilldrillin

Bégé wrote:
IndianaRog wrote:

My tube says the following:
- Name: Powdered Graphite Lubricant

Yes,
Thanks IndianaRog
I found that
http://cgi.ebay.fr/Powdered-GRAPH...Z1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem
and that
http://cgi.ebay.fr/GRAPHITE-POWDE...Z1QQssPageNameZWD7VQQcmdZViewItem
But the seller asks £5 for the sending to France, it is very expensive!


Bege.
Please wait for word from Steamgranny.
Can`t say more!
Bégé

Stilldrillin wrote:

Bege.
Please wait for word from Steamgranny.
Can`t say more!


OK
Roly Williams

Mister Occlusion wrote:
Pencil lead does have clay mixed in with it, however. Softer pencils would have a higher graphite content.

I did once get a bottle of graphite powder from a hardware store. It's used to lubricate door hinges and lock tumblers, etc, so it shouldn't be horribly difficult to find in some form.


Also, some modern pencils are not graphite but a polimer material. I don't know difference that makes to the lubrication properties.
Bégé

Roly Williams wrote:

Also, some modern pencils are not graphite but a polimer material. I don't know difference that makes to the lubrication properties.

Yes Roly,
it is for that that it is necessary to buy graphite powder
I think that's the best solution
Wallace

If you want to buy graphite powder locally, try any auto parts /accessories store, or possibly a locksmith?
Bégé

Wallace wrote:
If you want to buy graphite powder locally, try any auto parts /accessories store, or possibly a locksmith?


Yes it is a good idea
IndianaRog

Bege, the eBay auction with the 6 tubes of graphite powder were the EXACT same tube I have...that is the correct product. Sounds like it might well be a product available from lock smiths as a lubricant for locks.

good luck finding it.
cheers,
Roger
Bégé

IndianaRog wrote:
Bege, the eBay auction with the 6 tubes of graphite powder were the EXACT same tube I have...that is the correct product. Sounds like it might well be a product available from lock smiths as a lubricant for locks.

good luck finding it.
cheers,
Roger


Yes, and this seller asks only $2 for sending to France.
and as I have feet broken (plaster) and difficulty to walk
I Think I buy on ebay
IndianaRog

Bege, glad you found the right material from a source that ships for little cost to France.

Hope your broken foot mends, that makes it difficult to get around

cheers,
Roger
tmuir

IndianaRog wrote:
Bege, glad you found the right material from a source that ships for little cost to France.

Hope your broken foot mends, that makes it difficult to get around

cheers,
Roger


But gives you plenty of time to polish your engines.
Hope your mobile again soon.
Tony
Bégé

tmuir wrote:

But gives you plenty of time to polish your engines.
Hope your mobile again soon.
Tony

Thanks,
Yes I have now many many time for polish my engines,
but not possible to go buy that I need
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