steamgranny
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Oil removal - for BégéBégé has just acquired an old Davies Charlton Stirling engine that has been drowned in oil instead of graphite & obviously doesn't work anymore - it's even dripping oil out of the air control screw hole
His question is: how to best remove the excess oil, especially on the displacement piston which is inaccessible without removing the heat cap at back & obviously not keen on doing that?
For pics of what I'm on about, see here:
http://www.blooo.fr/vapeur/ma_mac...vies_Charlton/Davies_charlton.htm
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Cranko
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I cant understand that , was it written by a northerner
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johnreid
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Alcohol would remove oil, but if there are any Gaskets it could dissolve them. You might Steam clean it.
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steamgranny
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| johnreid wrote: | | Alcohol would remove oil, but if there are any Gaskets it could dissolve them. You might Steam clean it. |
'Steam clean'.......hmmm.....that might do it Not sure if there are any gaskets in there.
Thanks for the ideas, will pass on.
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IndianaRog
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I would personally use automotive carburetor cleaner with a spray tube that inserts in the nozzle. Widely available in auto parts stores and auto dept. of stores like Walmart if those are in France.
Two cautions:
1) wear goggles in case it sprays back in the eyes
2) protect the painted surfaces unless they are to be repainted...the stuff can remove of damage some paints
It is purposely made to dissolve oily "gunk"
Hope this helps.
Rog
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steamgranny
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Thanks Rog. I've no idea what that stuff is in French but I expect Bégé will
(And we haven't yet been invaded by Walmart but have plenty of equivalents! )
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Mister Occlusion
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Varsol maybe?
Pretty mild stuff as far as solvents go, and itself pretty much washes up with hot hot water.
At least that's how we used to get the oil off of new brake rotors and such at the shop I worked at: a scrub in the varsol tank, and then a run under the hot water tap in the sink
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steamgranny
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| Mister Occlusion wrote: | Varsol maybe?
Pretty mild stuff as far as solvents go, and itself pretty much washes up with hot hot water.
At least that's how we used to get the oil off of new brake rotors and such at the shop I worked at: a scrub in the varsol tank, and then a run under the hot water tap in the sink |
Thanks & appears Varsol is available here
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Mister Occlusion
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You're welcome... But make sure to read up on it to make sure there's no chance of it attacking anything that might be in the engine. I only ever used it to degrease bare metal.
....oh, and it works a treat to get tar off of the rocker panels on the car
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tmuir
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AH one of the early PM research engines, I want one of them.
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Cranko
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eware of some of these degreasers as they are very aggressive and disolve a whole heap more than grease
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tmuir
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| Cranko wrote: | eware of some of these degreasers as they are very aggressive and disolve a whole heap more than grease  |
Yes I discovered the degreaser that I've used on my mobiles disolves the silver paint on the engine frame base on the SP range.
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Stilldrillin
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Re: Oil removal - for Bégé | steamgranny wrote: | | , especially on the displacement piston which is inaccessible without removing the heat cap at back & obviously not keen on doing that? |
Doesn`t the heat cap unscrew, the same as our PM research engines?
I unscrewed mine and cleaned it out the other week, using brake cleaner spray and a gentle blast of compressed air. I then let it stand overnight to evaporate any spare solvent.
I lubed the power piston with graphite, as instructed, and now it runs a little too fast for my liking!
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steamgranny
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Re: Oil removal - for Bégé | Stilldrillin wrote: | | steamgranny wrote: | | , especially on the displacement piston which is inaccessible without removing the heat cap at back & obviously not keen on doing that? |
Doesn`t the heat cap unscrew, the same as our PM research engines?
I unscrewed mine and cleaned it out the other week, using brake cleaner spray and a gentle blast of compressed air. I then let it stand overnight to evaporate any spare solvent.
I lubed the power piston with graphite, as instructed, and now it runs a little too fast for my liking!  |
Yes, the heat caps are removable/replaceable, not that I've done it yet & was therefore unaware that they actually screwed in/out but think Bégé is wary of doing that due to age of machine & maybe inability to get a replacements should it break. They look identical size to the replacements sold by PM Research but are they??!!
However, that is interesting info & did you lubricate the displacer piston afterwards & if so, what with? (It is the 'displacer' piston on heat cap side, isn't it?)
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mc_mc
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WD40 might do the job, I've used it clean up oily gunk. It's a very light oil and will evaporate eventually. Certainly won't do any more harm.
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Roly Williams
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| mc_mc wrote: | | WD40 might do the job, I've used it clean up oily gunk. It's a very light oil and will evaporate eventually. Certainly won't do any more harm. |
When WD40 evapourates, it leaves behind it's own oily gunk!
Alcohol is what I'd try first. Squirt it into the cylinders and turn the flywheel for a couple of minutes to swurl it around.
If necessary, leave it to soak overnight.
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steamgranny
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Thanks Roly & everyone else, I'm translating & passing on to Bégé, as your thoughts & advice comes in
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Stilldrillin
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Re: Oil removal - for Bégé[quote=However, that is interesting info & did you lubricate the displacer piston afterwards & if so, what with? (It is the 'displacer' piston on heat cap side, isn't it?)[/quote]
No lube on displacer piston, only "3 in 1" outside the cylinder, where it`s rod exits, to help seal / lube the sliding shaft.
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steamgranny
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Re: Oil removal - for Bégé | Stilldrillin wrote: |
No lube on displacer piston, only "3 in 1" outside the cylinder, where it`s rod exits, to help seal / lube the sliding shaft. |
That's what I thought (& what I do) & thanks for confirming
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steamgranny
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An update on Bégé's oily trials & tribulations
He finally plucked up courage to remove burner cap - successfully. And oil was cleaned out equally successfully with Acetone, taking care to keep clear of any paintwork.
The only problem now is acquiring some graphite for power cylinder & the little dedicated meths burner that is not heating too well, with flame apparently too close to heat cap. But further tinkering plus a wick change will occur tomorrow & essentially the old Charlton Davies hot-air engine is in quasi-functional state once more.
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IndianaRog
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SG...a quick source of graphite usually at hand is to take a pencil lead and pulverize it with a hammer...making a fine black dust of it. That is all graphite actually is...just make sure it is finely pulverized and I put it on the needed surfaces with a cotton bud dipped in it.
Good to hear Bege got his Oily problem resolved.
cheers,
Roger
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steamgranny
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| IndianaRog wrote: | SG...a quick source of graphite usually at hand is to take a pencil lead and pulverize it with a hammer...making a fine black dust of it. That is all graphite actually is...just make sure it is finely pulverized and I put it on the needed surfaces with a cotton bud dipped in it.
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Having previously used this tip myself, I've already passed it on, although first time around I used a rasp & was not fine enough. A good bang with a hammer is definitely the answer! But then, it's the answer to most knotty problems
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IndianaRog
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True SG...a good whack with a hammer will bring wide ranging results when applied correctly
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Mister Occlusion
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Pencil lead does have clay mixed in with it, however. Softer pencils would have a higher graphite content.
I did once get a bottle of graphite powder from a hardware store. It's used to lubricate door hinges and lock tumblers, etc, so it shouldn't be horribly difficult to find in some form.
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IndianaRog
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Ughhh, didn't know that pencil lead might contain clay...THAT doesn't sound too good from a wear and tear standpoint!!
Just dug out my tube of actual graphite powder, as something folks who want that sort of thing might find on eBay or the net in general
My tube says the following:
- Name: Powdered Graphite Lubricant
- Maker: Panef Corp., Milwaukee, Wisconsin 53218 USA
- Purpose: lubricate key slots (amongst others)...so it sounds like a product possibly available from lock smith or lock smith supply house?
- Description: Greaseless, odorless, for metal, wood, plaster and rubber
- Net Weight: tube contains 6.5 grams
- Source: Mine came with my flame licker engine from PM Research
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Mister Occlusion
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| IndianaRog wrote: | Ughhh, didn't know that pencil lead might contain clay...THAT doesn't sound too good from a wear and tear standpoint!!
Just dug out my tube of actual graphite powder, as something folks who want that sort of thing might find on eBay or the net in general
My tube says the following:
- Name: Powdered Graphite Lubricant
- Maker: Panef Corp., Milwaukee, Wisconsin 53218 USA
- Purpose: lubricate key slots (amongst others)...so it sounds like a product possibly available from lock smith or lock smith supply house?
- Description: Greaseless, odorless, for metal, wood, plaster and rubber
- Net Weight: tube contains 6.5 grams
- Source: Mine came with my flame licker engine from PM Research |
Clay is used in the mix to vary the hardness of the lead and to give it strength from breakage... There's probably also some sort of glue or binding agent in there too, I shouldn't wonder.
Clay is a bit gritty, but clay minerals are still pretty soft, so I don't know if they'd do significant damage even to brass if one used one of the softer pencils especially. In the short term it's just not quite as slippery as graphite so you'd not have quite as good lubricity.
Molybdenum Sulphide (moly) is another dry lubricant that is *very* slippery. It's mixed in with some auto greases and those miracle oil additives that get sold by informercial. I don't know if/how it reacts in this situation, though. I guess if the maker says graphite, then it's best to use it..
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Bégé
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| IndianaRog wrote: |
My tube says the following:
- Name: Powdered Graphite Lubricant
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Yes,
Thanks IndianaRog
I found that
http://cgi.ebay.fr/Powdered-GRAPH...Z1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem
and that
http://cgi.ebay.fr/GRAPHITE-POWDE...Z1QQssPageNameZWD7VQQcmdZViewItem
But the seller asks £5 for the sending to France, it is very expensive!
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Stilldrillin
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Bege.
Please wait for word from Steamgranny.
Can`t say more!
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Bégé
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| Stilldrillin wrote: |
Bege.
Please wait for word from Steamgranny.
Can`t say more!  |
OK
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Roly Williams
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| Mister Occlusion wrote: | Pencil lead does have clay mixed in with it, however. Softer pencils would have a higher graphite content.
I did once get a bottle of graphite powder from a hardware store. It's used to lubricate door hinges and lock tumblers, etc, so it shouldn't be horribly difficult to find in some form. |
Also, some modern pencils are not graphite but a polimer material. I don't know difference that makes to the lubrication properties.
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Bégé
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| Roly Williams wrote: |
Also, some modern pencils are not graphite but a polimer material. I don't know difference that makes to the lubrication properties. |
Yes Roly,
it is for that that it is necessary to buy graphite powder
I think that's the best solution
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Wallace
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If you want to buy graphite powder locally, try any auto parts /accessories store, or possibly a locksmith?
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Bégé
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| Wallace wrote: | | If you want to buy graphite powder locally, try any auto parts /accessories store, or possibly a locksmith? |
Yes it is a good idea
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IndianaRog
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Bege, the eBay auction with the 6 tubes of graphite powder were the EXACT same tube I have...that is the correct product. Sounds like it might well be a product available from lock smiths as a lubricant for locks.
good luck finding it.
cheers,
Roger
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Bégé
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| IndianaRog wrote: | Bege, the eBay auction with the 6 tubes of graphite powder were the EXACT same tube I have...that is the correct product. Sounds like it might well be a product available from lock smiths as a lubricant for locks.
good luck finding it.
cheers,
Roger |
Yes, and this seller asks only $2 for sending to France.
and as I have feet broken (plaster) and difficulty to walk
I Think I buy on ebay
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IndianaRog
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Bege, glad you found the right material from a source that ships for little cost to France.
Hope your broken foot mends, that makes it difficult to get around
cheers,
Roger
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tmuir
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| IndianaRog wrote: | Bege, glad you found the right material from a source that ships for little cost to France.
Hope your broken foot mends, that makes it difficult to get around
cheers,
Roger |
But gives you plenty of time to polish your engines.
Hope your mobile again soon.
Tony
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Bégé
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| tmuir wrote: |
But gives you plenty of time to polish your engines.
Hope your mobile again soon.
Tony |
Thanks,
Yes I have now many many time for polish my engines,
but not possible to go buy that I need
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