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| MooseMan |
Pictures of Moose's new boat -NEW ACTION MOVIE P16 -Right folks, by popular demand here are some decent pics of the new boat:
An overview shot. The boat is 95% done, all that's left to do is detailing, making the cabin roof, fitting the rudder and mounting the engine and remote control. 
A familiar engine (MM1) on the bow, for scale 
Closeup of John "Bogstandard" Moore's magnificent engine......nothing bogstandard about this one, it is rather extrordinary. It is a long stroke engine, so relatively slow but very powerful. It is coupled to the boiler via twin valves, one acts as a "limiter" so the engine doesn't get more steam than it actually needs....running slowly at 25PSI I was unable to stop it by hand. Note John's trademark concentric circles. 
The Maccsteam 3 1/2" vertical boiler....it has 6 cross tubes and holds about 750ml of water. Beautifully clad in mahogany stripwood. I think the cap with the steam takeoff on the safety valve is particularly nice, you'll also see the the side entrance to the chimney for the waste steam. The brass chimney finial again is John's work. The boilr is gas fired and raises 35PSI in about 8 minutes from cold. 
The gas tank and condenser/oil trap, not currently fixed in place yet.....perfect match for the boiler. The gas tank holds about 200ml of gas, takes a while to fill. 
3 inch brass prop - also visible is the bottom mount for the rudder. The rudder has been made up, but has not been fitted yet. 
"Parade" picture of the engine, with all its brasswork shining in the sun. So there we have it! Not shown is the huge quantity of bits and pieces, stripwood, fittings, plans, books, a full set of R/C gear with full complement of rechargeable batteries and chargers, the figurines, tanks of gas.......the previous owner was determined to do me a good deal, he wouldn't take a penny extra for all the bits. I paid £450 for the boat, collecting it cost me another £80 or so, and I think I got a total bargain....this one's a keeper! I can't wait to get it on the water, but I'm determined to take my time and get it right. Huge thanks are due to John who brokered the deal for me.....I had the great pleasure of being able to go and shake his hand on the way back. John's an absolute master of his craft, and I love his "no nonsense, no bullshit" approach to model engineering. Watch this space folks! |
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| steamyjim |
That is beautiful Moose!!!!!!! | ||||||||
| tmuir |
You are making me very jealous, I love everything about that boat and think you will do a grand job finishing it off.
AS you say don't rush it, take your time and finish it properly, just keep us all updated with your progress. |
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| kusuchi |
Exactly, couldn't have said it better myself.............but........... if you happen to see another one...... 
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| kusuchi |
Exactly, couldn't have said it better myself.............but........... if you happen to see another one......
I know Rog has the Kit and the Cheddar Puffin, so when he launches (no pun intended) his construction thread I will be watching with great interest. |
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| johnreid |
ahhh, heavy sigh, that is just too nice. A real thing of beauty. | ||||||||
| mogogear |
What a way to start my Saturday!! That engine machine work on just the outside is a thing to behold!!!
It makes a MOORE proud to have the same last name.... come on genes or name or what ever.. Moose I love the smokestack details - thanks for having a great picture. Also the rudder / prop!! That prop is HUGE!!! Have all the fun you deserve!! Can't wait for more - so don't be stingy!! |
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| duncandumpertruck |
Some makeshift "shelvage" there is see! That's a cracker of a boat and the engine is great. The oiled on the engine is such a peach
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| Kritika |
That Mose is just lovley ..,. I'm lost for words
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| Sandman |
Beautiful Odilon.
The absolute dogs danglers mate. Can't wait to see this one finished. 
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| IndianaRog |
Moose, all I can say is you and your craft are an inspiration to all us wannabe steam boaters. Damn that is a beautiful setup!!! | ||||||||
| MTA |
That is a superb craft Moosey. I cannot wait to see it on the water at STIA next year (nudge nudge wink wink!)
Presumably when you said :
The working pressure is actually 35psi? |
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| MooseMan |
Thanks for all your comments guys!
MTA, the SV starts to blow at 35psi, but the engine ticks over very nicely at less than 10....according to the paperwork I have with the engine, 20psi is just about an ideal operating pressure for efficiency and power. |
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| MTA |
Ahh, I see
Once again, fantastic boat. Any ideas on a name yet
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| CCairns |
A very nice boat with boiler and engine, and I'm sure it will be finished to the high standard we expect from the Mooseman boatyard!
The safety valve cover is very useful, and was an option that Cheddar Models had for their boilers as well. I wonder why you have 2 steam valves inline in the steam pipe, but I'm sure John will explain all? |
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| MooseMan |
Chris, John suggests the use of two valves: one near the boiler to keep the line clear while the boiler is heating up, and one near the lubricater to act as a steam limiter - with this valve you can set the maximum amount of pressure that will go into the engine, and then leave it set. This is to prevent the engine getting more steam than it needs, resulting in unnecessary blowing off.
I've tried this out, and it works extremely well - even with the valve on the boiler fully open the engine runs very cleanly, without any unnecessary steam loss, leakages and dribbling of condensate....in practice it means a lot less to clean up after a run, not a bad thing in a hull. |
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| kusuchi |
Could see that would be useful. I spend quite a lot of time cleaning the Elliot Bay after each run with the Heritage. And that's a much simpler interior.
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| Les Marsh |
That is a really nice craft and I look forward to seeing it sailing.
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| mogogear |
Now... there is more pearls of wisdom... those darn little valves are spendy.....!
A- fitting hunting I will go....repeat...( sung to music of course!) |
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| Steve_S |
Wow, what beautiful boat! I can't wait to see it running. As the others have said, take your time, but take your time quickly!
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| MooseMan |
Steve, I think you've just named the boat! How about: "FESTINA LENTE" (Latin, "Make haste slowly") |
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| Griffin |
That is some boat Moose. I just love that boiler and brass motor.
That launch needs to be shown off to the maximum, it really is a beauty. As Steve said, you do need to "take your time quickly" 
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| Steve_S |
Sounds like a boat name to me!
(What's the latin for 'Go slow quickly?' ) |
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| MooseMan |
Did the first significant bit of work - mounted the engine and fitted the universal couplings....as recommended I used two. Fitting it to the propshaft was a wee bit of a squeeze, so I ground down the sleeve/stuffing box by about half a mil, after that it was perfect. The prop turns smoothly, with no tight spots or straining.
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| tmuir |
Everything about that boat is just quality, I love the oiling point on the prop shaft. | ||||||||
| kusuchi |
Looking great ,Moose,
We are insanely jealous
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| johnreid |
Truly a piece of art, this is one fine model. | ||||||||
| Les Marsh |
That looks good  , and I do like universal couplings as they make up for the fact that you cannot always get engine and propshaft in line.
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| James |
Bloody hell! What a boat 
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| bessytractor |
not strictly the best method (I explained this in a previous post) but it should work well, and as Moose said, you haven't got much choice here. Fortunately the angles are taken up by the fact he's used two, so its not going to be a problem. It might be worth getting something to cap the oiler tube Moose. At high revs the oil could be jettisoned out of the tube straight up onto your passengers (done it, cleaning oil off the interior of a 1:48 scale tug is a tricky job)
A little plastic plug would do the job ok. |
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| Stilldrillin |
Sorry, just found this posting... 
That is absolutely beautifully gorgeous!
Takes me back some 50yrs. to when I was a member of Brighouse Model Engineers.
Many of the older members had such superbly engineered boats, loco`s etc. Some have the knack, most of us have a lack...... 
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| MooseMan |
Will do mate - thanks for the tip. |
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| bessytractor |
no problem tbh its probably not such an issue with a steam engine as it won't rev as hard as a motor. But still, would be a shame to get it mucky lol. |
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| MooseMan |
Done some work!
First of all, finished off the rudder. This had been partly painted grey by the previous owner, so I duly stripped that off.....it explains the slightly "two tone" appearance, which I don't mind at all. Putting on the brass banding wasn't difficult, just labour intensive....lots of little pins to cut to size and tap in. Finally affixed the rudder with the screws I got from www.modelfixings.co.uk - great company, great service. Then cut the servo linkage and duly fitted. 
The servo itself, along with the power switch, is neatly hidden under a little hatch. Hat to cut it down a little as the servo arm slightly fouled the hatch 
Finally, the fun bit - installing and connecting the engine throttle and direction servo.....there was only one logical place for it, and it fits neatly in a recess I cut into the deck house - when the boat is finished it will be hidden by the table I intend to make. I then experimented with a couple of couplings, but in the end it turned out that a straight rod is by far the most effective - obvious answers 'n all that. 
This means that the boat is now almost ready to go on the water - my next job will be balancing her out. |
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| bessytractor |
excellent stuff Moose!
Looks like a proper job, that rudder is a thing of beauty! You'd scoff at the rudders I put on my boats compared to that!
I'm looking forward to seeing this one going! The servo arms are called "horns" btw. |
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| MooseMan |
Duly noted - thanks!
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| bessytractor |
No problem. I do have a small request actually, when you finally sail it for the first time, could you moor her bows in to the bank, alongside Ellan Vannan please? That picture would look SOOO cool
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| Les Marsh |
That looks good, and I call them servo arms.
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| MooseMan |
Consider it done!
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| mogogear |
Aye - me too- learning this RC speak via Moose.. channeling Bessytractor
And then on to the - What a great rudder!! The detail looks so good. I am trying to find a way to install the ( not sure of the name?) protective piece that guards the prop from hard things!! Yours and a few others I have noted are giving me options - Having yours end on the base of the rudder is elegant!! Hurray- More soon we hope |
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| MooseMan |
...tentatively.....prop guard??? Not sure..... I'm going to have to have an enforced break now - away until Monday.... |
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| bessytractor |
do you mean the bit that runs under the prop and the rudder sits on at the bottom? Its called a "skeg" Its more for the rudder than the prop. |
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| johnreid |
Do Mooses pictures make you crave a Tangerine?
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| bessytractor |
sometimes
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| MooseMan |
My workshop = the kitchen table.... Not ideal, but it forces me to be reasonably tidy. |
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| johnreid |
I use my kitchen table and eat at the sink sometimes 
I think Mrs Moose is the incentive to be tidy. |
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| kusuchi |
Wow, I actually knew that.
Maybe I will buy another boat.
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| mogogear |
More thanks Bessy!! | ||||||||
| Bogstandard |
You are doing a wonderul job on that Odilon, keep it up and you will soon have your dream boat.
I didn't really take any notice, and have only just realised, I told John (the seller) to buy the special adapter for joining two couplings together. It is like a serrated length of brass rod that sits in between the two couplings. If it had been used you wouldn't have had such a tight fit as the two brass bits between each coupling just wouldn't be there. I also noticed that you are using brass rod for the rudder and engine controls. This will bend on the first outing, it is just not strong enough to take the forces being applied, especially from that monster of a rudder. I used to use stainless bike spokes, If you can get the parallel ones, not the tapered spokes. Old fashioned bike shops used to sell them very cheaply, the threads on one end screw nicely into plastic clevices. They are a bit thicker than normal (about 2mm) but they make a real no nonsense, strong control rod. Or just go to the model shop and buy the real thing. Just to point out. The control arm on the engine is made to the same configuration for hole spacing from the centre point as a standard servo. This stops over or under controlling and maybe putting a lot of stress on the servo and linkage. So do a rough measure on the engine control arm from the centre to whatever hole you want to use, then match the measurement up to the servo arm to find the right hole to use. It is slightly different for the rudder, you don't use the same method. You need a max throw for the rudder of about 35 degrees each way (otherwise the rudder loses efficiency and acts as a water brake). So what you do is put the control rod on the longest bit on the rudder arm, and nearer to the centre on the servo. 30 degrees throw either way is about ideal. I only ever seem to pop up and put a dampener on things, but I just want to pass my bit of experience across, and maybe save you a bit of heartache and first sailing blues, when things go wrong at the pondside. John |
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| MooseMan |
Don't worry John - any advice is very much appreciated, I want to make sure I get this one right. Nice to know someone's watching out for me!
Good tip on the bicycle spokes......I'll plunder one of my wrecks in the basement! |
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| MooseMan |
John and other RC specialists, would you do me a favour and have a quick look at this video and tell me if I'm getting the degrees of control right? I've ordered some clevises (learned another new word today!) but I won't be able to do anything now until Monday at the earliest - off to Devon this PM.
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| IndianaRog |
Odilon, it looks good to me, but most of my RC experience was with airplanes. One thing to be careful of is to avoid immovable resistance for the servo.
Put another way, clevises and control rod length must be such that if it wants to travel 1/2 inch, you don't want to constrain it with 3/8 inch of possible movement. That causes your servo to labor, rods to flex and batteries to die faster than normal. Easily accomodated for with clevis placement in the right holes and rod length adjusted properly. Your video seemed to show things working as they should. Rog |
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| MooseMan |
Thanks Rog! I know next to nothing about RC, apart from my experience with single servo boats. I've noticed that if a servo has to strain, it has a very pronounced rattle....am I right in saying that if I avoid this, the servo is working within its normal operational parameters? | ||||||||
| toxx |
... looks perfect, Odilon! The rod doesn't bend, so it has the correct length.
Congrats, mate!
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| IndianaRog |
YES...you want things rigged up so when you let go of the sticks on the transmitter there is no rattle, hum or any sound whatsoever. Occasionally if you are getting errant signals from some unknown source, the servos will "chatter" because they are being told by the receiver to activate/de-activate etc. rapidly...this doesn't happen often, but if out at a lake and it happens, you might have another RC boater with the same channel or one close enough to overlap and cause interference. Such a thing on an airplane field is absolute disaster for a plane...not so with a boat, but it could play havoc with getting it back. Best if you are at a pond and see other RC'ers...just ask them what channel they are broadcasting on (and know your own). I personally would NOT launch if someone had the same channel or was causing interference with my receiver. NOT unless I was prepared to go swimming!! fun, fun, fun!!! Rog |
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| johnreid |
I know from my RC experience that fully charged batteries are of the utmost importance as once the batteries go low, servos can develop a mind of their own too. | ||||||||
| Bogstandard |
Odilon,
Of what I can see with the throttle control, the arms are not parallel. Throttle on motor central, servo central, make rod to fit between the two in that position. Should be the same for rudder. Also there should be a slot for the rudder linkage to move in , not a hole. It looks like it is binding in fully one way position. John |
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| CCairns |
Hi Odilon.
Looks fairly good there. You want to adjust the length of the rod connecting the throttle/reverser lever so that the servo horn is at 90 degrees to the rod. That way you will have an equal throw in both directions, and the amount of travel for full stick movement can be adjusted by moving the clevis in and out on the servo horn. I was also told to try and not have metal to metal contact, particularly where vibrations are involved, which should reduce the stray interference sometimes experienced. So a metal clevis would be OK on the servo horn end, and a plastic clevis on the throttle/reverser lever. However my Cheddar Steam launch came with all metal clevises fitted, although my running of this model has been restricted to my test tank so far (the bath!). Adjustments on the clevises will allow you to set the throttle/reverser lever in the neutral position with the throttle control centred, although I've also heard of some people adjusting the control so that there will be some forward motion with the throttle control centred, which then caters for a radio failure with the model hopefully motoring to the nearest side of your lake/pond/etc. Otherwise you need a rescue boat or a pair of waiders. Fitting the receiver aerial may prove a bit of a problem, as these do not function very well if you cut them (it reduces their effective range). The Cheddar Launch has a plastic tube which has been fitted inside the hull when being pressed together. Not sure if you'll be able to hid your aerial around the inside of your launch, without getting to close to the metal bits. You will find that some servos will always chatter at idle, but normally it is an indication that the linkage is under some sort of strain and adjusting the clevises should solve the problem. |
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| MooseMan |
Gentlemen, thank you - all brilliant tips. I've now actually taken to printing these out, as the previous owner of the boat kept a ledger with all his correspondence during the build (John, I have a stack of your old emails!).
I've ordered a bunch of clevises, both plastic and metal, and I've just been down to the basement and liberated some cycle spokes! I can see I'm in safe hands here - speak to you Monday, have a nice weekend one and all. |
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| mogogear |
Ahhhh a great use for some titanium spokes that I have!!! ( I happen to have 6 sets and no bike for them- talk about spares!!
Great RC info gentlemen!! EDIT: actually scratch that thought Titanium=light=strong= but too flexible!! |
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| toxx |
... the shorter the drive rods from servo to whatever device is, the better it functions. Long drive rods tend to buckle, and: Steel rods can disturb r/c signals.
Cheeers, Odilon!
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| bessytractor |
many people have touched on the throttle arms not being parallel.
Tell me, when the servo is unhooked from the engine, and the engine lever is in the "shutoff" position, and you have the RC switched on, does the mid position have the servo horn at 90 degrees to the engine? It looked to me that you could afford to unscrew the keep screw on the horn and rotate it on the shaft (its splined so it will re-engage ok). That would help get the servo horn at 90 degrees to the engine when the servo is in the mid position when the RC is all switched on. |
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| CCairns |
Yes you are correct that the servo horn needs to be remounted in the 90 degree position, but as John and myself have pointed out the rod connecting the servo horn to the engine throttle/reverser lever is the wrong length (too short), so moving the servo horn would then displace the engine throttle/reverser lever away from the neutral position.
That's where the use of a threaded rod plus adjustable clevises comes in to play, giving lots of fine adjustment to get everything in the right place. |
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| bessytractor |
oh yes woops I should have pointed out a new rod would be needed. Its been a long day
Thanks for adding to that Chris. |
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| kusuchi |
Just when I thought it was safe to go back in the water
Good Luck, Moose.
I'm sure it'll be perfection when finished. You sure seem to have the best advice available. |
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| MooseMan |
Just back from a few days away - came home to find my clevises have arrived.
I fully intended to have the servo horns straight, but when I made the bend in the control rod I was too enthusiastic and it broke, so I ended up with one that was slightly too short. After reading all the comments here I will replace it with a bicycle spoke with a couple of 90 degree bends in it. The brass rod for the rudder seems fine, but I'll cut a little slot in the hull to ease the movement - I'll perhaps disguise it with a bit of leftover wood. |
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| H2o vapour |
Hi,
You may not want to do this, but makes things easy, make the connecting rod in two parts and join at some point with an electrical connector block, saves allot of time!! H20 |
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| MooseMan |
I'll try anything.....plenty of bicycle spokes around, thanks for the tip! | ||||||||
| H2o vapour |
Connector rods
Years ago, most boats were internal combustion, motors and especially batteries and steam wasn't what it is today. So, you had the radio gear tucked away in a box at the back of the boat and made up connecting rods to the engine, sometimes 18- 24 inch long. I have made them in 3-4 bits and connected them with electrical connector blocks. Also, when the rod is fixed and solid you can solder the two rods together for extra strength. Don't forget what the aircraft boys do and use Bowden cables. Also you can change direction at any given point by having a 90 OR 45 crank in the system. I always try and start with the servo at 90 Dig and servo horn central. You can alter the amount of travel you get in the rod by increasing and decreasing the length of the connector rod to the center of the servo, and by the length of the arm connected to the work piece. Good luck !! H20 |
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| MooseMan |
'scuse my ignorance, but what's a Bowden cable? | ||||||||
| Les Marsh |
A bowden cable is a wire which runs inside a plastic tube which you might find is too flexible for your needs as you will have to glue the whole length of the tube. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bowden_cable |
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| MooseMan |
Ah....what I know as a brake or gear shifter. cable.....that might just work for the rudder, also help with any accidental water ingress. | ||||||||
| H2o vapour |
Hi,
The aircraft boys tend to have all their servo's in the middle of the plane to keep weight ballanced. They then cable the rudder and elevator with cables running in the fusalarge. They can be plastic inner and outer, metle inner and plastic outer, as required and quite large lengths. These can be cut to length as required and hidden away under decks they can also take a fair curviture if that would help. H20 |
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| MooseMan |
Certainly does mate - learning as I go along here.
Replaced the brass rod with a bicycle spoke today - plastic clevis at the engine end and a metal one at the servo. Very pleased to report that the servo horn is now dead straight, and that all seems to behaving very well. Pics when I get "a round tuit". Thanks evryone - this is highly educational!!
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| johnreid |
I cant wait for a video of the Maiden Voyage. This one is so nice. | ||||||||
| MooseMan |
Neither can I John! Still a few weeks away I'm afraid! |
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| MooseMan |
Here's the engine running in the boat, on steam, with the new RC linkage installed. All seems well, the engine runs like clockwork. I ran the boiler up to about 40 PSI, and then turned down the gas to maintain a steady 20-25 PSI....the engine seems happy with that! Good half hour run later I extinguished the flame, still 200ml water left in the boiler even though the sight glass was empty at that point. Very pleased altogether!!
Oh yeah....the roar at 18 seconds is a train going past, not the engine
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| Steve_S |
That's fantastic. It looks and sounds great! | ||||||||
| Sandman |
WOW. That looks as if it will really move along.
Wonderful stuff Odilon. Can't wait to see it finished and on trial. |
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| Griffin |
That really does sound nice, and with very good control of the throttle. | ||||||||
| bessytractor |
running well! makes a lovely noise too.
ah I see you have the same transmitter as tugboat Willit! I've used and abused (well...) my one for about five years now and its still working as well as when I first switched it on. Can't go wrong with a Futaba set
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| MooseMan |
Yeah, the Futaba radio came with the boat, along with the receiver, two servos, a charger and a full complement of batteries.....the previous owner was very generous with the deal he offered me. | ||||||||
| Les Marsh |
I know this is off topic but I like your new tag line.
An englyn, and a harp, a fire - and an apple and drinkers in merriment and sweet wine and a kiss of a slim pure girl, that's pure life. |
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| MooseMan |
Thanks Les! My wife put that on my wedding anniversary card (11 years yesterday), and I thought it was just beautiful....an "Englyn" is translatable as "a poem", but it's a very specific form. | ||||||||
| Bogstandard |
That is wonderful Odilon.
You will find that in the water the engine will run a lot smoother and slower. It looks like the rings are still wearing in, that is why it is a bit sticky starting from zero. Give it another couple of hours in the water and it will all be bedded in, and the engine will then give you years of sterling service. You will also find, if you set it up as I said, you should get at least 40mins safe running time. Again, great vid. John |
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| MooseMan |
Thanks John! I already got half an hour out of it, and that was with much accellerating and slowing down, messing around with different pressures and gas flow rates and whathaveyou. What a great engine....a powerful beast too....took a fair bit of effort to stop the prop by hand, and I was glad I was wearing gloves when I tried!
A quick question.....not that I need them yet, but where would I get viton o rings in the right size from? I had a look but I can't seem to find any metric sizes. |
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| Les Marsh |
Have you tried Polly Engineering.
Page 52. http://www.pollymodelengineering.co.uk/ |
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| CCairns |
Great Video Odilon.
A very nice running engine, particularly at slow speeds. Looking forward to the pond trials! |
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| John Chapman |
Absolutely stunning Odilon, what a beauty. | ||||||||
| johnreid |
That thing sure has the sound of real power, quite impressive. | ||||||||
| Bogstandard |
Blackgates Engineering. 8mm bore with a 1mm cross section (10mm diameter) Viton o-ring. (Used for sight glasses on larger engines) The same o-ring is also used for the lubricator. About 40 pence each. Order by phone. Tel: 01924 466000 Monday To Friday 9.00am - 4.00pm Saturday 9.00am - 1.00pm Each engine was supplied with a spares pack, bearings, rings, screws etc. Maybe John kept them for his model engieering. If sailed every weekend the piston rings rings should last at least a year. I would say under normal conditions at least two or three years. So no rush just yet. The worn ones out of the cylinder can be used on the luber, another case of recycling. I would send you some but I don't have any in stock at the moment. I usually buy them in bulk for when I make a batch of engines. John |
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| MooseMan |
Don't worry John, it's just for reference at the moment. John Somers started a ledger with all these bits of useful info, I intend to keep that going. | ||||||||
| MooseMan |
She's watertight and stable! I had to add 1300g of lead ballast to counter for the weight of the engine....whether the boiler is full or not makes surprisingly little difference. You'll notice that the ballast is off-center, this is to counter the considerable weight of the condenser/oil trap. She's fully loaded in this pic.
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| tmuir |
Just rang them up to order some solder and some bronze wire. Unfortunately they no longer stock the bronze wire but I now have a life time supply of 0.5mm easyflo solder coming. They were very helpful and friendly and I would recommend them. |
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| Bogstandard |
Odilon,
I should have mentioned that. I hid all mine under the seats, but because of the modified rear cabin you will have to find another hiding place, but I am sure you will manage it. There is loads of room under that rear deck if you can get it in, or make a nice bench seat in the well to hide it inside. Lookin' good. John |
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| MooseMan |
Don't worry John, nothing I hadn't anticipated.
I'll either hammer or melt it into a shape where I can hide it under a removable rear seat. |
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| Bogstandard |
No worries Odilon, I know you will do a very good job.
You could put another three or four house bricks in there and you will still have more power than you need. John |
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| MooseMan |
I'm sure you're right.....I feel a lot more confident about chucking that in the pond than one of my smaller boats, which are very susceptible to wind, waves, swans....
Anyway.....I've pounded the ballast into shape, and made a little bench to hide it....I've tried to keep it in style with the rest of the boat, I'm reasonably happy with it....it just lifts out. Still needs fine sanding and varnishing, but you get the idea. 
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| IndianaRog |
Odilon, lovely handiwork if you ask me!!! Where did you obtain the thin strips of wood used for the seat? I have a gas and condensate tank I would like to cover with similar material. | ||||||||
| MooseMan |
Rog, they came with the boat.......the were surplus from the benches and the decking, I'm pretty sure they're mahogany. |