Removing whistle from my old TE1

nichb · Removing whistle from my old TE1

After many years of static display

my son has taken an interest in any thing that moves (this is a good thing)

Therefore I thought it time to resurrect the my old engine

I replaced safety valve as a precaution before firing her up but pressure seemed very low

I then replaced water refill and went to check the whistle

However when I went to remove the whistle it rotates but doesnt come out if that makes sense

I presume its screwed into a sleeve that is now rotating

Do any of you experts know what I should do to remove it?

I believe the rubber seals are perished and needs replacing

or do I permenantly retire the old girls and purchase something that works?

Thank you

and

Hello

James

Welcome to the Forum!!

Ahh, that's a bit of a problem. Sounds like the whistle bush has broken it's solder and is rotating. Since it's a TE1, it won't have a sight glass? I've never had to resolder one of them before, but I know Mamodman will be able to help!!

Cheers

nichb

cheers

thats right no sight glass

thinking I could use all the bits that are ok on another engine without the problem

oh well

James

You might be able to solve it without buying a new engine, which I really hope you can as the old ones excel in quality when compared to the new ones

johnreid

Newer ones have a hex nit at the bottom of the Whistle and the handle will rotate without the whistle body.
IF the whistle looks like this

try using a wrench and CAREFULLY remove it by the hex nut on the bottom of the whistle. IF the whistle doesnt look like that, ignore this post.

Les Marsh

I haven't got any quick fix solutions, but welcome to the forum from Bournemouth.

Mamodman123

Sounds like the thread in the boiler has broken and is turning with the whistle. It is fixable but won't be easy....

The boilers can be "opened" up from the other end (i think), however Ive never done this......

Some pictures may help

cheers MM

nichb

It is as I thought that the whole whistle unit is rotating in its thread, as you say not an easy fix

I used the correct spanner on the not and gently turned but after one complete turn it was obvious it want going any where

I thought if maybe by firing the boiler and getting some heat into it it might expand enough to be able to remove but that sounds a bit dodgy to me

Static display it is then

I wil now be looking for a mamod Wagon or roller or engine so I can use some of my spares

hobbies dont you just love em, along with all the other projects I have on the go

tmuir

I think on the earlier Te1s that had bolts sticking out of the back of the boiler to fix it into the firebox the end cap can be removed unlike the later ones.

As MM says it can be fixed but if tricky, you can also buy a new boiler for it but thats expensive.

Put some photos up of it so we can see what model it is and we may be able to give you some better advice.

Mamodman123

nichb

Ill get some photos up when I get 5 min

Wheels are the 3 rivit type if that makes sense

I dont believe mine to be the really early model

Ebay here I come

I tend to be a user not abuser so concours is not an issue, fair wear and tear and patina are all part of it, so long as it works!

cheers everyone

nice place you have here

IndianaRog

NichB...welcome to the forum from Indiana, USA...if your TE CAN be fixed, folks on here will find a way to walk you through it.

cheers,
Roger

pauly

like james said its probably got solder sickness.

to the forum from Middlesbrough

Dave B

Sorry I'm no help on the TE whistle/boiler issue - I've had a couple of boilers apart to resolder thread nuts, but never a TE...

Welcome from (FINALLY melting) western Canada!

MooseMan

If you're lucky you can sometimes resolder the whistle bush by heating it - use a micro blowtorch or a powerful electric iron (not a 15W electronics jobbie) to apply local heat to the bush. You'll kill the washer so it'll smoke, but it may just work. See if you can work some flux into the join by applying some with a cottonbod and then rotating a couple times in both directions.

Welcome to the forum!

seven.mpd

Moose is on the ball but if you do heat it then make sure you have the whistle on the bottom then when the solder does run it will not drop into the boiler so hpeefully run around the bush. Good luck.

mc_mc

Definitely worth a go, the only thing your going to risk is some scorched paint.

When you do fire it keep people a safe distance away in case it does "let go" with a stream of boiling water, it won't explode since you've fitted a new safety valve.

Mamodman123

seven.mpd

Yes but now it's loose and I was talking of the molten solder dropping into the boiler!

nichb

Sounds like it might be worth a few drops of solder, I can afford to lose the fibre washer and rubber seal

All it needs is to grab the offending item long enough to unsrew

Once removed I take it the insert could be resoldered in situ?

Then a rub down and polish and paint

If I had some water in the boiler, any small amount of solder that did find its way through would turn solid and come out through refill / whistle / safety hole?

Im still going to look on ebay

Nick

Mamodman123

nichb

Next question then is your advice on what and wear to purchase solder and iron

The more I find out the more I realise I dont know

MooseMan

Maplins is good....I use thin wire solder.

If you want to use a soldering iron, you'll need a very powerful one - personally I prefer to get a small gas torch. If you buy one at Maplins get the sales guy to check that it fills OK, because a lot of them have duff valves.

nichb

lovely jubberly

xlchainsaw

just had a good look at the te1 boiler on my bench. ouch!!! nasty one. i think moosemans idea is the only quick fix way. if un successful then the next step would result in the loss off the whistle! or you could just clean the whistle up to bright and solder around the base of the whistle making it a permanent fitting. probally best to do this! either way if you lose the brass insert into the boiler your only option then is to solder a new insert upside down in the boiler thus raising the height of the whistle.not too bad its up to you! has it still got the nuts at the back of the boiler?? if it has then the little "bolts" have more than likely rusted and prone to leak. this is fixed by copper self sealing pop rivets. is this getting too involved????fixable??? yes! its up to you.