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       The Unofficial Mamod and Other Steam Forum Forum Index -> Restorations
erikl

SE3 G&G Restoration

Today I started restoring my SE3 G&G. I already had this engine for a few months, but didn't yet had the time to start working on it.

From all the engines I restored, this is the most dirty and ugly engine.
It seemed like it had a hard life. It will probably take me quite some weeks before I'm finished with this one.

let's start with a "before" picture:


There are several things that needs atention:
- the filler plug is totaly crap, needs replacement.
- whistle needs replacement, at least for the metal parts
- the firebox is quite rusty, crap falls off everytime I touch it:



So i've stripped it down for a repaint:


There are still same traces of the rust there was (like little holes/dents), I hope you don't see them anymore after the repaint.

- the burner lost it's metal piece that's on top of the wadding, there where just some pieces of rusted metal left, that fell right out, I have to see what to do with it now, it still works perfectly, so I'll probablyonly give it a polish, but if there ever shows one up on ebay, I might replace it.


- the baseplace was totalyu bubbled, I couldn't capture it on a photo, so you just got to believe me . Chips of paint fell off everytime I moved it.

What was wrong with it became clear after a stripping of the paint. I used a paint remover to do the job. This is realy nasty stuff (all kinds of warnings about permanent health damage on the outside of the can ) If you ever use it, wear potective clothing.
Anyway, with this stuff the paint becomes soft, and you can just pull it off.
FAter I did that, it became clear to me that the basepalte had a lot more rust than I expected:


The piece at the right (where the firebox normaly is located) is how it should be looking. So this baseplate now needs a lot of sanding, and a fresh coat of paint.
With all the engines I repainted before I used spray paint, with this one I am going to try to use just a can of paint, to see how that works out.

Besides all the painting, there's ofcourse a lot of polishing to do. I've already started with the boiler:



The faceplate is giving me a hard time, but with a few minutes of polishing everyday, It will get there.

So that's it for now. I will probably get some remarks about the repainting now but I think this engine deserves it
I'll keep you updated.
MTA

Jeez Weez erik, a lot to do there But if its anything as good as the ones you've done before, the job'll be a good 'un
Griffin

Erik, It is possible to get an undercoat paint that fills the holes in pitted metal. I have never used it so can not comment on it's results, just know you can get it.
erikl

Griffin wrote:
Erik, It is possible to get an undercoat paint that fills the holes in pitted metal. I have never used it so can not comment on it's results, just know you can get it.


thanks for the tip, that might not be a bad idea.
Right now I already have the first coat of black paint on it, but if those little holes are still there, I might give it a try.
James

no comment
Steve_S

Good luck with it Erik, I'm sure it'll turn out well and I look forward to seeing the result.
Wallace

Looking good erik
As someone suggest for filling holes, I know there is a filler primer you can get in aerosol. No idea how it handles heat though
SPOKESMAN

Another G&G on the forum - excellent, hope you steam it Erik!
Mamodman123

Looks like you're making good work of it Erik
erikl

SPOKESMAN wrote:
Another G&G on the forum - excellent, hope you steam it Erik!


once it's finished, I'll definitly steam it
I already steamed it before too, see http://www.steam-toys.com/index.php?page=vid&vid=3
I think I've showed the movie on the forum before, it's that one where my camera had some problems with the fast moving pistons, so after a while it looks like it's spinning backwards

do any of you have a idea where I can get a new filler plug for it?
SPOKESMAN

erikl wrote:
SPOKESMAN wrote:
Another G&G on the forum - excellent, hope you steam it Erik!


once it's finished, I'll definitly steam it
I already steamed it before too, see http://www.steam-toys.com/index.php?page=vid&vid=3
I think I've showed the movie on the forum before, it's that one where my camera had some problems with the fast moving pistons, so after a while it looks like it's spinning backwards

do any of you have a idea where I can get a new filler plug for it?


Try forest steam.
erikl

making progress:

(it's no dirt you see on the faceplate, it's the reflection from the paper)

Polishing took quite some time, and as you can see, it's not finished yet. The faceplate of the boiler gave me a hard time. I wansn't sure ut was going to be good, because after a lot of hours of polishing, there where still a lot of traces of rust and other green crap.

So after some time I decided to give it a day in the azijn salt mixture. That helped a lot, because after that, I could get the crap off in 5 minutes.

The firebox is repainted too, and ready to go. I only need to do some more polishing, and repaint the baseplate.

Finding the right water level plug seems too be dificult too, I've finaly located one on ebay, I hope I can get it:
http://cgi.ebay.nl/ws/eBayISAPI.d...em=230058722337&rd=1&rd=1
SPOKESMAN

Interesting to see Erik, just remembered those non-Mamod branded Cranks again!
Mamodman123

Looking good Erik! SE3 boilers look great when they're polished
MTA

Mamodman123 wrote:
Looking good Erik! SE3 boilers look great when they're polished


Thats reminds me...
Mamodman123

MTA wrote:
Mamodman123 wrote:
Looking good Erik! SE3 boilers look great when they're polished


Thats reminds me...


Should get it clean MTA, once it's done it will be easier to clean in the future!
MTA

where the boiler straps have been, its started to turn orange Not sure whether it's rust or corrosion
SPOKESMAN

brass doesn't rust, it 'marks' if nothing else . . .
Mamodman123

MTA wrote:
where the boiler straps have been, its started to turn orange Not sure whether it's rust or corrosion


It's usually where the boiler straps have rusted against the boiler. Not sure whether it will polish out with brasso, but I guess it depends on how severe it is.

If you have corrosion on the boiler then some fine grade of wet and dry should sort it out. 800-600 does the job!
Sandman

Mamodman123 wrote:
MTA wrote:
where the boiler straps have been, its started to turn orange Not sure whether it's rust or corrosion


It's usually where the boiler straps have rusted against the boiler. Not sure whether it will polish out with brasso, but I guess it depends on how severe it is.

If you have corrosion on the boiler then some fine grade of wet and dry should sort it out. 800-600 does the job!


Or A Dremel
Mamodman123

If you have one
Wallace

Sandman wrote:
Mamodman123 wrote:
MTA wrote:
where the boiler straps have been, its started to turn orange Not sure whether it's rust or corrosion


It's usually where the boiler straps have rusted against the boiler. Not sure whether it will polish out with brasso, but I guess it depends on how severe it is.

If you have corrosion on the boiler then some fine grade of wet and dry should sort it out. 800-600 does the job!


Or A Dremel


Aye!!!




MTA, as MM said, sounds like the boiler straps rusting caused the corrosion colour

If there is corrosion in the way of pitting, or was white stuff (dots) on the boiler, be real careful

My recent post on dezincification says it all, and it's not good.

If you did have white dots, or discolouring of the brass (a copper colour) with pitting then try not to polish or W&D it. You'll want to leave as much brass as possible there

I have a feeling if I hadn't steel wooled mine, then polished it, it may have survived a little longer
Mamodman123

Wallace wrote:
Sandman wrote:
Mamodman123 wrote:
MTA wrote:
where the boiler straps have been, its started to turn orange Not sure whether it's rust or corrosion


It's usually where the boiler straps have rusted against the boiler. Not sure whether it will polish out with brasso, but I guess it depends on how severe it is.

If you have corrosion on the boiler then some fine grade of wet and dry should sort it out. 800-600 does the job!


Or A Dremel


Aye!!!




MTA, as MM said, sounds like the boiler straps rusting caused the corrosion colour

If there is corrosion in the way of pitting, or was white stuff (dots) on the boiler, be real careful

My recent post on dezincification says it all, and it's not good.

If you did have white dots, or discolouring of the brass (a copper colour) with pitting then try not to polish or W&D it. You'll want to leave as much brass as possible there

I have a feeling if I hadn't steel wooled mine, then polished it, it may have survived a little longer


Agreed Wallace, have to be quite careful!

It SHOULD be ok.... that pitting might be quite hard to remove. You should see this SE1a I've got, now that boiler is pitted!
SPOKESMAN

Sandman wrote:
Mamodman123 wrote:
MTA wrote:
where the boiler straps have been, its started to turn orange Not sure whether it's rust or corrosion


It's usually where the boiler straps have rusted against the boiler. Not sure whether it will polish out with brasso, but I guess it depends on how severe it is.

If you have corrosion on the boiler then some fine grade of wet and dry should sort it out. 800-600 does the job!


Or A Dremel


Mamodman123

not to your liking Mike?
SPOKESMAN

Mamodman123 wrote:
not to your liking Mike?


Too brutal!!
Mamodman123

SPOKESMAN wrote:
Mamodman123 wrote:
not to your liking Mike?


Too brutal!!


Brasso and an old rag works for me so Ive no need to change
SPOKESMAN

Handwork!
Mamodman123

SPOKESMAN wrote:
Handwork!


Aye! Does the job Mike
SPOKESMAN

Mamodman123 wrote:
SPOKESMAN wrote:
Handwork!


Aye! Does the job Mike


Its more sensitive. I almost never use machinery on an engine - apart from a blowlamp!
Mamodman123

Same here Mike! I'd be quite scared to use a polishing wheel on a rare engine just incase I got carried away and left it on for too long
Wallace

I'd love to try wadding if they sold it here, the brasso stuff anyway

With the right polishing pads, which are similar consitency to Mamod Polishers, it's not too bad with a dremel.

Very hard to damage a boiler with them

Wet and Dry would do more damage.

I'm defo going to get some of the other Wadding to try from the auto shops here.
From what you guys say, the brasso wading works a treat!
Sandman

Wallace wrote:
I'd love to try wadding if they sold it here, the brasso stuff anyway

With the right polishing pads, which are similar consitency to Mamod Polishers, it's not too bad with a dremel.

Very hard to damage a boiler with them

Wet and Dry would do more damage.

I'm defo going to get some of the other Wadding to try from the auto shops here.
From what you guys say, the brasso wading works a treat!


I've given both a try and the Dremel wins every time.

As Wallace says you would do more damage with wet & dry than a proper polishing head and Brasso.
Wallace

You've tested both and the dremel wins?

Thanks SM

Just saved me money.
I know the tinned wadding stuff here, (Mothers brand, or Meguairs) is expensive, so I'll stick to my dremel.

Just bought another cheap access pack for it, with lots of polising wheels

My sanding and cut of discs are building up though. I never use em
tmuir

I buy my dremel polishing wheels from a jewellers supply shop as the are one fifth the cost of dremel ones and probably better quality.
Wallace

tmuir wrote:
I buy my dremel polishing wheels from a jewellers supply shop as the are one fifth the cost of dremel ones and probably better quality.


Good idea tmuir, not sure if we have any around here

Our only Dremel brand supplier burnt his own shop down (Mitre 10) but never bought anything there, it was expensive for dremel as you say.

I buy the $10 packs from bunnings, with a whole heap of parts.
Pads will usually do 2 or 3 engines for the small pads.
tmuir

My bunning only sells official dremell polishers for $11 each

They can keep them at that price. I pay about $2 each from jewellers suppliers. It's about the only thing that is cheaper in that shop.
Normally you put the word Jewellers infront of the word tool and the price goes up by 300%.
Mamodman123

This may sound stupid but what does a dremel look like?
SPOKESMAN

I could describe one MM, Sm may have a pic!

Essentially a motor housed in a casing with chuck/clasp arrangement at one end to take different 'bits'.

Ill stick to brasso, a bit of wet and dry and the best known power tool - by a manufacturer called: El Bow Grease
tmuir

Mamodman123 wrote:
This may sound stupid but what does a dremel look like?


Depends on which model you get.
The flash ones look like a dentists drill the cheaper ones a bit like a cordless screwdriver.
Or if your imagination isnt working look here.
http://www.dremeleurope.com/dremelocs-uk/Category.jsp?ccat_id=469
Mamodman123

So the polishing wheel is the size of a mamod one?
tmuir

Mamodman123 wrote:
So the polishing wheel is the size of a mamod one?


Why not fire up one engine with a Mamod polisher and use that to polish another engine. Then you can tell everyone you 'Steam Cleaned' the engine.
Mamodman123

tmuir wrote:
Mamodman123 wrote:
So the polishing wheel is the size of a mamod one?


Why not fire up one engine with a Mamod polisher and use that to polish another engine. Then you can tell everyone you 'Steam Cleaned' the engine.


As soon as the polisher made contact with anything it would stop, thats why
SPOKESMAN

Mamodman123 wrote:
tmuir wrote:
Mamodman123 wrote:
So the polishing wheel is the size of a mamod one?


Why not fire up one engine with a Mamod polisher and use that to polish another engine. Then you can tell everyone you 'Steam Cleaned' the engine.


As soon as the polisher made contact with anything it would stop, thats why


Aye!! - nice idea though!!
sparky

SPOKESMAN wrote:
Mamodman123 wrote:
tmuir wrote:
Mamodman123 wrote:
So the polishing wheel is the size of a mamod one?


Why not fire up one engine with a Mamod polisher and use that to polish another engine. Then you can tell everyone you 'Steam Cleaned' the engine.


As soon as the polisher made contact with anything it would stop, thats why


Aye!! - nice idea though!!


lol
Sandman

tmuir wrote:
Mamodman123 wrote:
This may sound stupid but what does a dremel look like?


Depends on which model you get.
The flash ones look like a dentists drill the cheaper ones a bit like a cordless screwdriver.
Or if your imagination isnt working look here.
http://www.dremeleurope.com/dremelocs-uk/Category.jsp?ccat_id=469


Mine is like the dentists drill. The main body of the polisher sits on a stand and you connect the flexi drive to it.

It's like using a pen with a polisher on the end.
Steely

I use a pedestool polisher whenever I can. It's quick and gives a great shine.
sparky

nice
sparky

i can believe thhat
Steely

sparky wrote:
i can believe thhat


You can believe what?
sparky

sorry wrong tread
lol
SPOKESMAN

sparky wrote:
sorry wrong tread
lol


Tyre?
Wallace

Mamodman123 wrote:
So the polishing wheel is the size of a mamod one?



Yeah, you can get them that size, they are the larger ones.
The ones I use are only about half that diameter but I have the larger ones.
Grinding wheels, cut off discs are about mamod grinder and polisher size too.


In the link tmuir gave, I have the multipro (not cordless though).
There are some real handy accesories to get for it, but I don't buy them, as I haven't had the need for them.


I wouldn't mind the attachment SM mentions
Flexidrive thingy
erikl

A little update, the paintwork is done, here you can see it next to my nonormal se3:




After a failed attemt with normal paint, i now did it with spray paint.
I'm quite pleased with the result.

So now all I have to do is get polishing on the boiler and the small parts, and clean up the engine frame.
Mamodman123

Looking good Erik! Not far to go now! How are you going to attach the engine frames back on?
SPOKESMAN

Aye, rivets or screws?
erikl

I think I'm going to do the trick I did with my other SE3 again.
this is the way I did it there:



With that engine I've searched every shop around, but nobody sold those eyeleds. I tried pop rivets, but they didn't look nice, so I guess it will be little screws again.
SPOKESMAN

erikl wrote:
I think I'm going to do the trick I did with my other SE3 again.
this is the way I did it there:



With that engine I've searched every shop around, but nobody sold those eyeleds. I tried pop rivets, but they didn't look nice, so I guess it will be little screws again.


Easier to take apart again, should the need arise - if you can get small brass domed headed ones so much the better.
Wallace

The paint come up good erik, well done.

The screws are much better to use anyway. As Mike said, easier to pull apart
Mamodman123

Make it a nut and bolter Erik! much easier!
erikl

Is's been a long time, but I've finaly finished this engine:


It took 3 weeks to get a spare whistle for the engine (the original one was quite bad)

Some pictures to remind you what it looked like before:




So what Have I done to it:
- repainted the baseplate and firebox
- replaced the eyeleds holding the frame with screws (because I had to get it of for paint)
- polished everything
- replaced the whistle-
-replaced thefiller plug

So now I have two shiney SE3's


Don't they look cute together?
SPOKESMAN

Great stuff Erik - I gotta say it . . .

are you going to steam it!?
tmuir

Nice one.
I still have to finish stripping the paint of my Se3 base to stop the rust on the base.

Did you spray the base or hand paint?
Mamodman123

Both look great Erik! A long wait but well worth it in the end i'm sure you'll agree .
Griffin

A super job Erik, very nice indeed.
Steve_S

Very good Erik, you've certainly done a wonderful job on the G & G!
Wallace

Looks great Erik. Well done.

Tony, I'm pretty sure it was sprayed. On the previous page he said

After a failed attemt with normal paint, i now did it with spray paint.
I'm quite pleased with the result.

I am pretty sure somewhere there were other pics, in another thread? that showed the brush painted base that he wasn't happy with
tmuir

Thanks Wallace. I remember he said he was going to hand paint it and I thought that looked pretty good for hand painting.
Wallace

Yeah I wish brush painting did come out that good. I'd do it all the time. I just hate the paint dust I get on everything in the garage from spraying.

I need a spray booth.
tmuir

Wallace wrote:
Yeah I wish brush painting did come out that good. I'd do it all the time. I just hate the paint dust I get on everything in the garage from spraying.

I need a spray booth.


Atleast you get a garage, I have to paint outside and then move painted object inside.
Wallace

Now that is a pain mate.

I get annoyed at all the paint bugs that seem to come around when I paint in the garage. I can't imagine outdoors

I call em paint bugs cos they always turn up in the paint
You never see them otherwise. It's a sure bet
oldstuff

Outstanding job, Erik! Great photos, too! What color did you use for the base?
erikl

SPOKESMAN wrote:
Great stuff Erik - I gotta say it . . .

are you going to steam it!?

Yes, I definitly am goind to steam it
I'll post the vidio when i've steamed it

tmuir wrote:
Did you spray the base or hand paint?

I gave hand painting a try on this one, but I wan't satisfied with the result, so I did it all over again with spray paint. You can see same images of the painting process here: http://modelsteam.myfreeforum.org/about1631.html

Mamodman123 wrote:
Both look great Erik! A long wait but well worth it in the end i'm sure you'll agree .

I'm happy with it I know I'm not as fast with restoring and cleaning up engines as some of you guys around here, but well, I've got a 40 hour job (and the RSI still prevents me from polising too long )
SPOKESMAN

Good stuff Erik!
tmuir

Wallace wrote:
Now that is a pain mate.

I get annoyed at all the paint bugs that seem to come around when I paint in the garage. I can't imagine outdoors

I call em paint bugs cos they always turn up in the paint
You never see them otherwise. It's a sure bet


Never got a bug in the paint before but have to be careful where I hang the item to dry, need to put it in a still spot in the room or dust from the AC will get it.
Luckily I am replacing my evap aircond with several split systems in the next few weeks then no more flying dust.
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