| Archive for The Unofficial Mamod and Other Steam Forum The Original Unofficial Toy Steam Forum Established 2006 The biggest, most popular steam forum around! Accept NO imitations! We have a growing community of regular posting members who chat about all aspects of toy and model steam. |
| IndianaRog |
SOLD...Machinist built overtype engineNow on eBayhttp://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI....sPageName=STRK:MESE:IT&ih=007 This engine began life in England and graced the collection of Mooseman at one time (it's even mounted to a quarry tile from his garden!). I bought it from him several years ago and added a Bowman type ments burner as it didn't have one. So two forum members so far have been keepers of the flame on this one, maybe one of you would like to give it another home. Since Moose didn't know the maker, he dubbed it "The Nameless" and I too have kept that name. Unique construction, built like a battleship...heavy guage copper boiler, 100% brass engine, flat black painted aluminum firebox and mounted on tile. Beneath the boiler are 3 superheater tubes that help it come to a boiler quite fast. Runs beautifully, but another victim of changing collection direction and shortage of shelf space. cheers, Rog |
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| Nick |
It's been in my ebay watch-list. 
I see Mark has the high bid. |
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| Mister Occlusion |
Just starting it out properly
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| IndianaRog |
Feel free to bid frequently Mark  I'll kind of feel bad when that one goes...it was one of Moose and my early trades. When I got it there was no burner and I have always used my Mersey burner, but finally made up a proper Bowman style trough burner and it works and fits better.
I've got to get my investment out of it, hence tossed to the eBay side, but it would be neat if it went to a forum member. |
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| Mister Occlusion |
I've no doubt I'll end up caretaker of something from the ToS some day
That's an interesting one for sure, and you made an interesting burner. Is this the one you were having some trouble soldering? I'm sort of dabbling with the idea of a through-the-base Mersey style burner for this project that's slowly fermenting in headspace. I've a notion to use my ".458 Maximum" burner tube(s) in it.. |
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| johnreid |
I do have a book from the house of Moose. That one is a temptation, but the time is not right.
I would look at that as having double the provenance, whoever gets it will have a nice one. |
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| IndianaRog |
Yes Mark, burner tin used is a former solder flux paste tin about 20 years old...I stripped the paint and had a lovely tinned steel two part can...but until I ground the tin off at the point of contact and then fluxed it with acid flux, I couldn't get the solder to stick. AFTER that treatment it went fine, about 5 minutes in fact vs. 2 hours of messing with it previously. Moral of the story...use the right materials and prep the metal correctly. Still don't know why the "tin" plating resisted soldering, but maybe as someone pointed out it wasn't tin but aluminum?? None the less, working beautifully now and seems to put out more than my Mersey style burner I used previously. Also learned that Rustoleum brand "hammered" finish paint not only looked good...it was absolutely meths proof whereas many paints are almost instantly degraded by meths. Didn't need any .458 maximum cartridges, but I DID incorporate a .38 special for the junction of tube and tin...9 mm to cap off the other end of trough...they are perfect for the job! |
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| Mister Occlusion |
I keep forgetting to try cartridge brasses for this sort of thing. At one point I bought a number of different common cases to make keyrings out of to flog at shows, so I've got a fair assortment, even if I don't have a gun for it (like the .458 magnum stuff).
Did you have to silver solder your end cap, or is it just a snug fit and / or soft solder? Mine always fall off unless silvered, but then I've always done the crude thing with sheet brass and butt-type joints, which are about as far from being best practice as you can get.. Will make note of the paint. I like those hammered finishes too. Nice look without a lot of effort appeals to me
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| mogogear |
So would those bigger brass casing be candidates to make displacement lubricators? Seems to pop out the primer caps- screw some threads in the bottom, drill a hole in the side and thread a cap into the top....
Sorry the shell casing talk got me thinking...dangerous... |
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| johnreid |
I am going to have to look at Rogers burners closer, I do not have a lot of shell casings as this Quaker Boy only has an heirloom and a 410 and I dont think that 410 shells would work.
Are the casings attached at the bottom where the Primer was? |
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| Mister Occlusion |
I made a lubricator with some K&S tubing. For the ends I used some 1/4" brass nuts ground into circular shape, pressed them into the ends of the tube in a vice and soldered them. Then did up a few brass bolts as filler and drain plugs, a couple teflon washers, and that was pretty much it. Ugly, but they worked well. |
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| IndianaRog |
I simply used 450 deg. F. rated 60/40 plumbing solder for the end cap and joint with the burner tank. Frankly the heat at floor level of such a burner is minimal...doesn't even damage the paint on the burner tin extended 1/3 inside the firebox. I have made several others the same way (including my Old Smoky conversion meths burner) and never have had the slightest sight of remelting. If the solder were positioned ABOVE the flame...that is a horse of different color. I discovered how undesirable that is when I first repaired a Wormar where the steam line sat directly above the flame...premature eruption was fast and furious!!!
I've never used a larger cartridge for a lubricator, but as Mark points out it could be done...just might be easier to work with virgin brass tubing. As for the spent primer end of the cartridge...I just melt a bit of solder into that end to ensure it remains liquid tight. cheers, Rog |
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| Nick |
Couldn't you just leave the spent primer in there? | ||
| IndianaRog |
Nick, I DID leave the spent primer in place, but since they are only a friction fit, I decided to run a little solder around them for liquid tightness. Felt a little funny directing the flame of a torch at the primer end of a cartridge...you better believe I looked 3 times to be sure it was a spent primer 
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| Nick |
Have you ever had them go off when your reloading? | ||
| IndianaRog |
No...never had a new primer go off during reloading and I have done over 30,000.
Now, we (me) need to stay on topic...somehow this got off in the twilight zone!!! |
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| Nick |
Roger,
I see it got relisted, how much do you need for it? PM me. |
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| johnreid |
I hope you guys can make a deal, it is kind of cool when an engine can stay in the forum. That one has double provenance too.
I now have two going on three engines that were previously owned by forum members, to me that makes them more special. |
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| Nick |
This forum has introduced me to a lot of new engines. | ||
| Les Marsh |
Have you got it?? |
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| Nick |
Not sure yet, someone else is after it too. | ||
| Les Marsh |
Who, not John? |
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| Nick |
Nope, not John.
I really like this one though. |
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| johnreid |
I think that dogs4sail bids on every engine that is put on Ebay
He wins quite a few and sells a few too. If you want it, you know what the Buy It Now was. |
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| IndianaRog |
Machinist built overtype has sold guys...sorry. Wasn't a forum member this time. | ||
| Nick |
Does the new owner have a nice collection? Maybe you could tell him about the forum. |