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| Minor1PJG |
Solder, Solder, Solder??After steaming happily for many years I have my first broken boiler fitting to repair. My experience of soldering relates to using an electric soldering iron for minor electrical circuit repairs.Now I need to re-attach the steam supply pipe collar to the boiler of my SE2. I know I will need to use a blow torch type soldering iron but is the solder I have already suitable? Is there a special solder to use? My uncle left me this 'Aluminium' solder which states it is suitable for copper & brass. Is this OK to use  I've shown the 5 core solder that I use for electrical repairs too.
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| Steve_S |
For small jobs like re-attaching steam pipes I have used ordinary electrical solder... Multicore or similar... and it seems to be fine. For bigger jobs I use plumbers solder which you can get from Homebase/B+Q etc. With either type the secret is to make sure the surfaces are very clean... wire wool is good for this... then apply some flux before you solder. | ||
| Minor1PJG |
Will I still need to apply flux if the multicore Solder includes flux??
Thanks 
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| Steve_S |
I always do. It makes the solder flow much easier. I use the plumbers flux that comes in yellow plastic tubs from the likes of Homebase. I apply it with a matchstick or piece of wire... you don't need much so it lasts for ages. |
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| IndianaRog |
YES...in my experience the more flux the better, slather the stuff on with a cotton bud (Qtip) and be prepared with another if needed part way thru the soldering job.
I have never heard of aluminum solder so can't say if it would work or not, but like Steve, I have had good luck on small bits using electrical solder. For larger soldering efforts I too use plumbers solder (the stuff for copper pipe)...mine is called 60/40 (tin to lead ratio I believe)...trick to using this stuff is to hammer the thick solder into a thin strip which melts easily...again, use plenty of flux AND heat the parts to be joined...NOT the solder. Keep touching the solder to the heated parts and stop heating when the solder flows. Practice on bits of scrap til you get comfortable with it, not hard with a bit of practice. cheers, Roger |
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| Mamodman123 |
I use my dads pumbing solder for everything when soldering, problem is its about 3-4 times as thick as the electrical or "general purpose" stuff. Just don't heat and hold the solder on otherwise you'll end up with a swimming pool 
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| Les Marsh |
I use flux with electrical solder and I always make sure the parts are clean first. | ||
| Minor1PJG |
Great. I'll clean well with steel wool, use plenty of flux and I think I'll stick to my electrical solder.
I'll need to buy a gas torch too. Is there a good low cost one or are they all much of a muchness?? Many thanks
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| mc_mc |
I'd go for one of this style with a pencil flame:
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/804...ixed-Gas/Brass-Torch-Pencil-Flame I started with a small micro torch (based on a cigarette lighter) and although it worked it was difficult getting enough heat into the work. Moving to a bigger torch made things much easier. Keep things clean, practice on some scrap and you just get better and better at it. |
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| Minor1PJG |
Yes that looks good. I'm off out later I think 
"Flux and a gas torch please hardware storeman" 
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| Minor1PJG |
Well I've bought the necessary tools and have effected my first soldered steam toy repair and it was steam tight too 
[img]  [/img]
This picture was taken just as the engine was coming to the end of it's test run. The soldered joint is sound but there is a minor leak from around the copper pipe (not enough to stop the engine from running). The pipe just pushes through the collar into the brass collet (?) but should there be an olive or packing material in there to make a steam tight steal around the base of the pipe
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| Wallace |
Great to hear it worked Minor1  Top job.
All you need is a very small oring that fits over the steam pipe, but fits into the union nut. Then as you screw the nut down, the oring squashes on top of the union fitting and around the pipe, making it steam tight
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| Minor1PJG |
I wasn't sure if there would have been an olive in there originally.
I'll fit something to make it steam tight
Thanks for the advice and support
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| Wallace |
Don't worry, I thought the same. The first time I came across one of them fittings, I was new to collecting. I thought it should have had a flanged end on it, a bit like some oil pressure gauges in cars. Not knowing any better, I just soldered the line in carefully, then did the union nut up to cover it 
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| johnreid |
I am having trouble finding lead type solder here, but have about 30 pounds of electrical solder so I am glad to hear the some are having good luck with that. | ||
| Les Marsh |
The fitting on the Burnac is the same so I wound a small piece of PTFE tape on the pipe and then did the nut up, it works fine.
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| Minor1PJG |
I found a rubber O-Ring just the right size (it was a rather tight fit) so it certainly seals well.
Two trial steam-ups and no leaks. A perfect repair
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| Les Marsh |
Congratulations and well done.
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| Minor1PJG |
For most on here it's no big deal and it IS no big deal really, but it's my first soldered repair so I'm very pleased
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