Some basic R/C starter questions

mogogear · Some basic R/C starter questions

Ok- so IF I get a marine engine , And IF I get a boat

What simple - Single servo ( if I get an engine with no speed control) set up should I start researching?

Like I know I need a hand held unit, a servo or two, a battery pack and a brain ( sorry -term... slips my mind) and a charger. (Confirmation plz)

Is there the "WAY simple" outfit to shop for? I am hoping to get close to Moose's and others efforts.( recommendation)

So - really I just a way to steer for know is my first task- most basic brains and hand held units are 2 channel....I assume that each channel controls a "servo" or function??? One for steering and one for a speed adjustment??( more confirmation PLZ)

Running on only logic here - so I could be lost...

tmuir

Yes pretty much.
If you go into any decent model shop they should have on the shelf a basic two channel radio control set.
It will come with the hand held unit, a receiver, battery holder for receiver, 2 servos and crystals which dictate what frequency you transmit on.
In Australia the most popular brand is Sanwa and they cost around the $110 OZ mark.
As you say for a boat with no speed contol you would only need to install one servo to the rudder so you would have one spare.

You won't need anything fancy and you certainly won't need one with computer controls or mixing abilities.
Most sets now just use 8 AA batteries for the hand held unit and 4 for te receiver although you could replace the receiver batteries for a rechargeable pack if you wanted to.

You could probably pick up a good 2 channel set cheap on ebay too.

mogogear

Thanks tmuir....

Les Marsh

Just a few sites with RC gear.
If you are after secondhand RC then check E-bay.

http://www.westbourne-models.com/erol.html#1X0
http://www.ripmax.com/3index.asp?BrandFilter=Sanwa&Category=06
http://www.modelflight.com.au/sanwa.htm

johnreid

In the US Tower Hobbies is the place that sells the most RC gear Lots and Lots of stuff there
http://www.towerhobbies.com/
Be wary though, it can get even more expensive than Steam.

MooseMan

27Mhz and 40MHz are both suitable for model boats - steer clear of the other frequencies as they tend to be for model aircraft, and you need a license for some.

mogogear

Thanks Odilon for the specifics on the mhz. And brand name - I have seen about three that seem very prevalent- but the subtlety of what is car, plane and boat was a mystery. I assumed that for this type of application the very basic set up would suffice.

What is a part number etc on the servo you used ? It looks nice an "low" on the profile.

johnreid

To use the 50 to 53 Mhz frequencies you need a Ham radio license in the US

mogogear

So John - that was you ( or Reid) and I that missed the Mamod SE3???

johnreid

Yes I placed a bid, still would like one but I have more time than money and another will come along.

bessytractor

Odilon has pretty much summed up the steering issue.

I also use the set he's got (well the transmitters a different make) in one of my tugs. Unfortunately the reciever was trashed and it made a lovely noise entering the *to be fixed one day* box.

Had to use one from another set, so its a right mongrel

Get some rechargable AAs for the battery pack, you will forever be buying them otherwise. I never used them as all my boats are electric and so I power the RC off the traction battery. It works fine. It has been known for the AA battery packs in these sets to break easily (I speak from others experiance). I would suggest you buy a NiCad or summat with the correct voltage which you can connect via a plug/socket arrangement, so you don't have to put up with having the battery pack breaking before you sail!

MooseMan

I'm trying to reinstated the comments I removed in a fit of chidish pique, but I can't remember what I wrote here!

mogogear

Thanks to both of you- I have sourced the complete set at Tower hobbies for $39 US!! Trans/ rec/ servo....

Making a list.. boat first , then engine, or maybe the other way around. Then the rc stuff

Cheers

MooseMan

Brilliant!

Have a look at my build diary of my first boat....it'll give you some idea of what's involved. I built that one from plans, with zero previous knowledge of woodwark.....bit of a learning curve, but great fun.

http://www.freewebs.com/odilon/arrowbuilddiary.htm

mogogear

mogogear

Snagged a Hitec Ranger here in town- $39 --NO SHIPPING-

What else do I need ???

Oh, yeah............... the boat and engine to arrive in the mail.

!!

tmuir

Just make sure your bench test the motor before you fit it just in case it has any problems it will be easier to fix with it out of the boat.

mogogear

good advice- keep it coming!! Anybody is welcome to chime in anytime-

I have my ears on

MooseMan

Invest in a bunch of good quality NiMh rechargeable batteries, otherwise you'll spend your life savings buying batteries. I use 2600mAh batteries - 12 in total for the HiTec set. If you buy the HiTec wall charger, you can charge the batteries in situ, very handy.

mogogear

Yep- have digital camera= eats rechargables as fast as I can charge them..... hip to nimh.... I don't figure I will off for the premade battery pack .....

On the charger do you need to have a Hitec one or is any wall charger that burps out the correct amp/volt cool ( that fits the outlet of course ) do- able ?

It also looks as if the original rudder shaft is a brass tube- The rudder sets I have seen look like they are made to insert through a brass tube . For quick in and out I assume?

Artistic-wise I am thinking about doing some tooled embossing on the front "spray" cover- the arched metal half-cone that pops in to place..

I would like to use copper for this so I can use various oxidizers to selectively color details... as a concept - does anyone see a problem with this concept?

MooseMan

Mo, I think the chargers are universal - the one I bought came with a double lead, obe for the transmitter and one for the receiver lead. AFAIK HiTec connectors are pretty standard.

Normal practice for the propshaft is to run through a brass tube, although in modern boats you get more fancy affairs with sealed bearings. The brass tubes work fine for me, and are easily replaced.....1/8" rod will fit into a 3/16" tube etc.

mogogear

Prop - I have in place through a tube---It seals in place with the lube used - I assume?

The rudder is the previous question----Yours is through a brass tube also?

MooseMan

Eeeeep....didn't read that properly. Yep, on the Bowman boats the rudder runs trhough a brass tube, but it's of no consequence as the entire rudder is mounted off the stern. In my arrow the rudder runs into the stern compartment through a plastic tube, which makes a good seal, but as the tube is above the waterline there is no problem with leakage anyway.