SR1a Challenger pics (with review)

Wallace · SR1a Challenger pics (with review)

Here is my SR1a Challenger that I got from Clinton (thanks mate

)

Sorry no vid until tomorrow. Battery on vid cam was flat.

Review

Not too much I can say. I am very impressed.

These are a very nice engine. Having only pre 1975 Mamods (and a new Jensen) I was very suprised at the build quality of this one.

They are built quite solid. They also run extremely well. I ran it in last night for a while, on compressed air. Steamed it this afternoon.

It would have been nice to see the exhaust to chimney though, considering there are 2 holes in the chimney already.

Not sure if the steam pipe uses a "real" type setup (ie, steam pipe has a flange on the end), as compared to the old oring/union nut Mamod used to use. But it looks good.

Faults.

There is only one fault with this engine that leads to 1, or possibly 2, problems.
Some of you may have heard of Mamod minor engines breaking steam pipes at the engine frame due to the vibration and frame setup.

You will see in the pic below the cylinder block on the engine frame. Note how the engine frame extends a long way from it's mounting point. The steam pipe does help hold it, but a mounting bracket would have been much better.

This length, combined with the heavy cylinder block, whilst running leads to the small "cylinder head nuts" coming loose due to vibration. So anyone who owns one, make sure they are tight.

The vibration is only when the engine is at full speed.

This vibration could also lead to the soldered steam pipe joint failing at the cylinder block, much like the MM engines. Apprently they are silver soldered, so then again, maybe it won't break.

Overall a great engine. A big thumbs up

Nick

Is the paint holding up good?

Wallace

Thanks for reminding me mate

(I forgot

)

It's hard to see it in the pic, but it's bad around the safety valve. I have no idea what paint has been used in the factory. Seems very "plasticy". It blisters up under steam, then goes down

Usually when blisters happen, it blisters, goes down, then "bakes on" and doesn't blister in the same spot

It's not doing it anywhere else, so has to be due to paint on top of flux. That migth explain why when the blisters go down, it doesn't bake on.

Where the steam pipe enters the cylinder block, there is still flux.

Nick

You've seen MM's problem right?

Wallace

Les

Nice looking engine and also very good pictures.

steamyman

Glad you're happy with it mate.

steamyjim

Very nice!

I want one even more now!

Mamodman123

Great review mate!

Totally agree in all aspects!

The steam pipe doesn't need to be flanged because thats not the end of the pipe

it goes from there, through the boiler curles round the firebox, then back into the top of the boiler where it takes the steam from

Mine was made Dec 07....not sure what is wrong with the paint but my second one didn't blister

They are great models! Mine should be back with me soon

James

Great engine and review Wallace

toxx

... a heavy and sturdy piece of kit, Wallace. Congrats, mate!

johnreid

I think that this is the right answer to the Wilesco Smoky, I bet the Mamod improves as time goes on too,

Mamodman123

kusuchi

Great Engine Wallace,

I love ours.

Our build date was June 17, 2006 and we have had no paint problems.

It would be nice if it exhausted through the chimney instead of on the floor. I too, have had the screw on the piston arm fly off on three occasions. Fortunately, we ve been able to find it everytime.

Les

johnreid

Would Locktite help?

IndianaRog

I wonder if the vibration causing problems on that copper steam line might be eliminated by CUTTING out a quarter inch in the middle with a Dremel, then sliding on a piece of silicone tubing. I use silicone all the time and the stuff stands up to steam pressure again and again. If done discretely it would completely eliminate transfer of vibration. Maybe not factory "original"...but after the fact solder repairs on boiler or steam chest are no fun and can make a real mess of things.

Rog

Mister Occlusion

How much of a mess does it make on the flooring with regards to oil? I understand the exhaust vents straight down from the cylinder..

Probably would not be too difficult to plumb the exhaust to the chimney...

Mamodman123

I think its silver soldered anyway, so doubt it would ever work. They only really vibrate too much when they are at full power stationary! Otherwise they are fine, I wouldn't plumb in an exhaust pipe though as It will get blocked up quite easily with the gooey oil

Nick

Does anyone have a closeup of the exhaust? You could attatch some silicone tube during the run and route it to the chimney. Cheap enough to throw away when it clogs.

Mamodman123

kusuchi

That would be the fix.

A little Locktite. I'll add it to the list.

Wallace

Thanks for all the comments. Also thanks to MM for the info about the steam pipe.

Oddly enough there is one on ebay at the moment, and it mentions a paint problem when he first fired it.

Sorry, no video today. I spent too much time steaming and enjoying it. My daughter actually got over my engines, but she decided she liked this one, and had a drive of it

Richard, thanks for the heads up about the other nut and bolt problem. I'll keep an eye on that.

Vids will be one day soon.

Griffin

Excellent write up Wallace, it is great to see these new engines in detail, as I have still to see one in the flesh.

Wallace

Thanks Griffin

Wallace

Video of this running can be found here

http://modelsteam.myfreeforum.org/sutra201268.php#201268

Stitch

That's great Wallace

Thanks for the detailed review - very interesting

Wallace

Thanks Shaun