TE1a trouble

trentbradbury · TE1a trouble

I just purchased a te1a from ebay It arrived 2 weeks late with the chimney off and the top steam pipe snapped . Soldering the pipe is not a problem the question is how is the chimney attached to the boiler front from the factory and can it be repaired? If I get a break I will snap some photos and post them.

MrMamod

Trent they are so easy to fix back on with super glue or araldite.

Roly Williams

It depends on where the break is. A photo would help.

trentbradbury

it seems like they may be peened from the factory the chimney seperated from the firebox/boiler front and is resisting slipping back in place possibly some gentle file work my help my guess is shiny new parts and some time wth a pivet gun and drill arein order. What year did mamod eliminate the boiler plug and go to a sight glass?
Is there aa place where I can date this?

Roly Williams

wyvern

Hi,

The chimney is an interference fit in the smoke box. As I see it you have two options to fix it.

1)Clean the chimney and smoke box joining surfaces with degreaser then lightly sand to key the surface. Then glue the two with JB weld.

2)Drill the rivets out of the smoke box and take it off. Use a tool to flare the end of the chimney poking through the smokebox to tighten it in place. You could do this with some treaded road, some washers and a a cone shaped piece to flare it.

Hope I havent confused you!

best of luck

Guy

m8dave

i had that problem it pushed back in and i used some glue on it

trentbradbury

Its not pushing back in easily so I think the file lightlty until it does/ epoxy method might be best god the repair would be so much easier with a hinged door there. The upper steam pipe also worked loose I am hoping an iron and flux will fix it otherwise its gonna be more heat and repaint.

kevin

jb weld is the way to go, it is heat resistant, areldite is no good under heat in fact i use heat to release areldite when i use it as a temporary bond on small parts to hold them for machining

sarfraz

You're in good hands on this forum. I just had a look at mine, I thought the chimney & smokebox were all one piece.

trentbradbury

I did to until yesterday..

trentbradbury

sometimes the stuff you step in is fertilizer. the attached pics shoe the damage and the repair after dressing the chimney with a file I pressed it back together its nice and tight and took abit of high blood pressure work to get it to go the steam pipe went well now to give her a bath

Celsius 100

Pleased to hear that you got the chimney back in.

trentbradbury

looking closer I don't think its been fired...

steaming_on_the_road

I had that with my SW1 dropped it on the floor and the chimney snapped off as you can imagine I was not to happy! I used JB Weld it to stick it back on worked a treat glad to see you have fixed it

Wallace

Nicely fixed

trentbradbury

It's cleaning up really nicely I will post some pics when she's done

kevin

maybe somebody can help me on this...i did the same then rubbed down the mazdac chinney to get rid of the casting markes, now having painted it i get small bubbles appearing, tried rerubbing and different paints but they keep comming back, is there something in the material i have exposed and if so how can i reseal it?

Dr. Rog

trentbradbury

It sounds likepaint incompatability issues or oil/ dirt on the chimney what type of paint are you using?

kevin

Halfords high temperature engine enamel, the odd thing is there is no blistering on the bottom section and it seems to be related to where i rubbed the chimney itself down with wet and dry, before that both sections were treated the same ie nitromores, good clean and wash, then light going over with wire wool and a final wash in white spirits

kevin

think ill try seal it with a primer and top coat again, i have some plasicoat primer I use on bases so ill try some samples next week to ensure the paints dont react first. only used the high temp stuff because i had loads of it, the temperatures dont realy warrent it especially the chimney section

kevin

dont think its oil, first there is no reasin for it to get oil on it second its engine enamle so im thinking pretty tolerent to oil

trentbradbury

oil would be less of a problem with enamel... My guess and strictly a guess would be the factory paint is either acrylic or laquer and is reacting with the paint you are using, I would comsider a bare surface and keep the steel wool away its treated so as not to rust in the package its okay for cleaning or wood work but can cause issues with paint. also to reduce compatability issues between primer and top coat stay with the same brand recommended primer I had an awesome looking gloss paint job suddenly start to turn flat after 24 hours of dry time which turned into a time consuming strip and do over... hope this helps

kevin

all very good points however...cannot detect any old paint in fact this section cleaner than the bottom section as i was trying to get rid of the casting marks, i used wet and dry...only dry though after the wire wool. re primer and top coat absolutly sound advice however being high temp paint it typically does not have a primer...ill try some samples and leave a couple of weeks to see what they are like, other alternative is use plassycoat top coat and hope the miss match is not noticable as i prefer to keep the high temp stuff on the lower section as the finish is good and it does get a bit hot. Oh what fun and so sorry for turning this thread into paint job woes

trentbradbury

My problem is resolved and its all related... Paint can be tricky solvents can cause all sorts od unexpected and unintended reactions it would be easier to predict if it was steel or brass, but who knows with what we call pot metal onthis side of the pond. each batch can vary slightly and your guess is as good as mine as to the composition...